Help with I.D. Bubbles on rock.

Little c big D

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My tanks fairly new. Check build thread. About 1.5 MO old. Im relatively certain im dealing with cyano. Which is part of the process which i am ok with (if i am correct)

If however i am wrong, I should figure it out. Ive had bubbles and a brown slime form on the rock Bubbles everywhere. for 2 weeks now. Ive vaccume the sand and it would come up in sheets. Like cyano, but its not red nor is it super thick.

To top it off i cant keep nutrients up. Im feeding reef roids for the few corals i have, as well as LRS for the 2 clowns. NO3 is 0 according to Red Sea, and po4 is 0 via hanna low range. Dont have the ULR yet. My zoas seem content, when the snails dont bother them. Also a small hammer seems un bothered.

Any help in id would be appreciated.

Parameters are
PH 8.2
KH 9
Calcium 450
MG 1440
No3 0
All by red sea kits

Po4 0
by hanna low range

Salinity 1.026
temp 78
20210917_172231.jpg
 

Fish Think Pink

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My tanks fairly new. Check build thread. About 1.5 MO old. Im relatively certain im dealing with cyano. Which is part of the process which i am ok with (if i am correct)

If however i am wrong, I should figure it out. Ive had bubbles and a brown slime form on the rock Bubbles everywhere. for 2 weeks now. Ive vaccume the sand and it would come up in sheets. Like cyano, but its not red nor is it super thick.

To top it off i cant keep nutrients up. Im feeding reef roids for the few corals i have, as well as LRS for the 2 clowns. NO3 is 0 according to Red Sea, and po4 is 0 via hanna low range. Dont have the ULR yet. My zoas seem content, when the snails dont bother them. Also a small hammer seems un bothered.

Any help in id would be appreciated.

Parameters are
PH 8.2
KH 9
Calcium 450
MG 1440
No3 0
All by red sea kits

Po4 0
by hanna low range

Salinity 1.026
temp 78
20210917_172231.jpg
Just keep feeding - give the clowns bonus LRS - eventually your numbers will climb higher than zero for phosphate and nitrates - hang in there
 

Just John

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The only thing I can see in the picture is bubbles, but if it's slimey snot and produces bubbles, then it should be dinos. Dinos often occur when there are low nutrients.
 
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Little c big D

Little c big D

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The only thing I can see in the picture is bubbles, but if it's slimey snot and produces bubbles, then it should be dinos. Dinos often occur when there are low nutrients.
I was hopeful its just cyano. Given how young the tank is i was really hoping its not. There is some snot. Im waitong on new slides for the microscope to look at it. I can try to switch to whites later and re picture it. I upped feeding to try to get nutrients up. Should i maybe turn off the skimmer for a bit?
 

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I was hopeful its just cyano. Given how young the tank is i was really hoping its not. There is some snot. Im waitong on new slides for the microscope to look at it. I can try to switch to whites later and re picture it. I upped feeding to try to get nutrients up. Should i maybe turn off the skimmer for a bit?
It depends on how well you control your nutrients. You don’t want to go from nutrient deficit to a surplus. Then you have dinos and algae. I just had a Dino outbreak. Did 72 hour black out. Tank looks good now.
 
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Little c big D

Little c big D

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It depends on how well you control your nutrients. You don’t want to go from nutrient deficit to a surplus. Then you have dinos and algae. I just had a Dino outbreak. Did 72 hour black out. Tank looks good now.
Fortunatley im early on and dont have alot to worry about. No feeding during a black out right? Thanks for the replies
 
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Little c big D

Little c big D

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+1 black out- I lightly feed the fish on the second day, but I also unplug the lights and put a blanket over the tank, so there is genuinely no light. You’ll be amazed how clean the tank is after :)
Should i be concerned about the few frags of coral in there? i suppose i can start that tomorrow. Thanks for the help
 

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Should i be concerned about the few frags of coral in there? i suppose i can start that tomorrow. Thanks for the help
Corals can survive the black out and should be your second option after prevention.

Very honest feedback (sorry if blunt): if you are experiencing these issues and asking these types of questions, are you really ready for corals? I would hate to see you spending money on corals while you are still figuring these things out. Cost me a small fortune rushing it.
 

RedFrog211

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What kind of corals are they and how is their condition? I avoid blackouts if I have tiny newly cut or sick frags. Aside from that, corals can go up to 5 days if not more without light, where as algae’s and dinos start dying once it is absent.
 

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Dinos. I had dinos with measurable high nutrients... UV sterilizer helped me a lot, as I didn't have the heart to blackout the tank.
 

vetteguy53081

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This is a mild stage and will be fairly easy to tackle.
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
 

BroccoliFarmer

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Corals can survive the black out and should be your second option after prevention.

Very honest feedback (sorry if blunt): if you are experiencing these issues and asking these types of questions, are you really ready for corals? I would hate to see you spending money on corals while you are still figuring these things out. Cost me a small fortune rushing it.
I just wanted to apologize. This probably came off really terrible. I don’t want to insult anyone. Was just trying to be helpful. We all come here to learn from each other and help each other and it is not my place to ask such questions. Please accept my apologies.
 
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Little c big D

Little c big D

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I just wanted to apologize. This probably came off really terrible. I don’t want to insult anyone. Was just trying to be helpful. We all come here to learn from each other and help each other and it is not my place to ask such questions. Please accept my apologies.
no need to apologize its a fair question. Ive grown corals. its been a few years however. My last tank was a 90g and during that dino outbreak i broke the tank down, cleaned and rebuilt. I was just shocked at how quick they got in my tank.

What kind of corals are they and how is their condition? I avoid blackouts if I have tiny newly cut or sick frags. Aside from that, corals can go up to 5 days if not more without light, where as algae’s and dinos start dying once it is absent.

Just 3 small zoa frags and a single small hammer. More testers than anything. Outside of a few fish i had no plans to add more coral for a while. Im not overly attached to them and wouldnt be opposed to giving them away either.

This is a mild stage and will be fairly easy to tackle.
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
I will do my research on this. thanks for the advice
 
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Little c big D

Little c big D

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Here is a photo under whites only. I vaccumed the sand bed again and got all from sand. i also cleaned as much off rock as i could before doing a water change.
received_241765291217730.jpeg
 

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