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[Daniel76]

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[vangvace]

How far of a distance is it from the ATO and saltwater container and the tank? I am going to assume it is too far to run things off a single p4.

So at the mixing station:

1. 2 Maxis
2. Expansion Box with
3. PLM-4Level Expansion Card
4. 2-3 Splitter Cables for Level Sensors
5. 4 Optical Level Sensors with mounts (one for high and low levels in both containers)
6. 2 Float Level Sensors (high level redundancy)
7. Sensor holders
8. temp probe (optional)
9. conductivity probe (optional)
10. Powerbar (optional)

Powerbar is optional because it is needed if you want controllable outlets for mixing pumps or to automate refilling the RO container via a solenoid.

For PAB cables, it'll be Profilux>Expansion Box>Maxi>Maxi>Powerbar and standard ethernet cables work.

For the lines for ATO and AWC, I prefer RO tubing for most of the run and if possible I would try to color code or label them for easy identification.

In case I missed something I am tagging @Ditto and @Vinny@GHLUSA to see if they can chime in.

 

[AZMSGT]

Vangance is correct and would make for the most automation and hands off monitoring. However you could run 2 Stand alone Maxis (they have sensor ports built in). They would eliminate the need for the expansion box and PLM-4 card. You would plug 2 sensors into each Maxi for your different levels. Also you would not need to run a PAB cable from your Profilux. You can access them wirelessly.

The only negative is they have to be logged into separately to edit functions. Also you need to shut off the ATO Maxi with timers during AWC functions. Not a big deal but just a part of the programming that needs to be done.

Depending on how you set up your ATO and RO you can have it auto refill with a float shut off and not need any sensors in the ATO tank.

Just remember PAB cables are just LAN cables. You can use Cat 5E or Cat 6 cables.

Also if you go the route Vangance suggests with the expansion box and 6 sensors you will need 2 PLM-4 cards.


My system is in work at the moment and I have not settled on a final design. I am going to have 1 maxi at/near my tank and profilux to pump the old water out to a drain.

The second Maxi will be in my garage to send ATO and clean salt water to my tank. I'll be running a LAN/PAB cable to this unit. None of my tanks in the garage will have sensors to tell me if it's low. I'm just going to have to look at it.. Also my water station will be set up to have me there during refilling operations.

As you can imagine there are lots of ways to crack this nut.

 

[Vinny@GHLUSA]

@Daniel76
How far will the P4 be from the ATO and AWC reservoirs?
Do you need to control any outlets in that area?
How many total sensors will you need?

• ATO/AWC can be done with 2x float or optical sensors placed n the sump
• Some choose to place 1 sensor in each reservoir so it can notify when the water level is too low.
  • That would be a total of 4 sensors...

There are a couple ways to go about setting this up.

Option 1 (Thanks @vangvace ) which involves the least wiring going from the P4 to the mixing area. You would have to decide if you want to use 4 sensors or 6 for this task. This also gives you the convenience of connecting additional probes in case you want to monitor temp and salt level in the mixing area.

Option 2 which would be

• 2x Maxi Slave
• 2x PAB-cables for each Maxi slave
• 1x PLM-4LEVEL expansion card; this gives you 4 extra level inputs in-case you're already using the 4 on-board inputs.
• 4x Level sensors; any combination of float or optical
• 4x Level sensor brackets; matched to float or optical sensors
• 2x PL-LY splitter cables for level sensors

This option would mean having some more wires running from the P4 to the mixing area instead, but at a lower cost for parts.

If you have something that will need to be switched ON/OFF in the mixing area, you would also need a Powerbar and an extra PAB-cable.

 

[Daniel76]

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[Daniel76]

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[vangvace]

I'm looking at a tall cabinet like @AZMSGT uses for storage for some of my equipment. Things like the powerbars, GHL boxes, and CaRx at the bottom. I also run a chiller so I am so out of space without a remote sump setup

 

[AZMSGT]

I'm looking at a tall cabinet like @AZMSGT uses for storage for some of my equipment. Things like the powerbars, GHL boxes, and CaRx at the bottom. I also run a chiller so I am so out of space without a remote sump setup

You guys honor me by bringing up my equipment cabinets.

@Daniel76 once you have everything installed and your GHL system running you have no need to bend over or kneel down. To turn items on or off I do it on my phone or tablet.

@vangvace I built the tall cabinet to my specific dimensions. However a standard pantry cabinet is near the same size. The bottom of that cabinet will have my calcium reactor... when I buy it.

 

[Daniel76]

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[AZMSGT]

@AZMSGT good point. I just moved back to Australia after living in the US for a few years. I had a Red Sea Reefer 250 and it was my first marine aquarium and had no idea that how easy I fit the mold of a 'clean build / gearjunkie'.
In that old setup, I found myself constantly on the floor and trudging around the sump. We have plenty of room now back in our home in Oz so I'm happy to outsource the controller, ATO, mixing station, ANYTHING to an area that it would go to if it was in someones work space. Just a personal bug bear of the hobby.
Oh I assume from your name you may be serving or retired. Thank you kindly for your Service.
I did 2 tours of Afghanistan with the Australian Army and worked with some amazing people in the US military.
I'm a retire civilian now.

Yep, I am Retired Air Force.. thanks and Thanks for your service as well.

 

[Daniel76]

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[AZMSGT]

Yes, there is a return pump compatible with the GHL. Two brands actually, the Abyzz and the Red Dragon. They are however prohibitively expensive.

You could just power a “dumb” pump off a power socket and sensor for the large water changes.

Looking at your chart you may not need power for your RODI pump. It all depends on your home water pressure. If it needs power just regular wall power will do. Most pumps come with an on demand switch.

Also, instead of using an entire Maxi to do the drain from the sump how about a dumb pump powered by a Powerbar switch? The Cobalt MJ1200 is a good cheap dumb pump. The output end of it fits a 1/2” Murlok style fitting. Just reduce it down to 1/4”.

Also, no need to power the Profilux or Maxi pumps from your powerbar. They are intelligent devices. Just plug them into a surge suppressor. I have my Profilux plugged into a computer battery back up.

Think of your powerbar sockets should be used to control on/off functions of an item. Also they can monitor power usage. Basically don’t waste a powerbar socket on something that doesn’t need it.

 

[Daniel76]

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[vangvace]

You are correct that using a maxi to drain the sump is the better route for AWCs.

There is some interesting automated setups for RODI creation, to include autoflushing and solenoid for on/off control. Something like on at the low level sensor and off at the high level sensor or after X amount of time. That would require the Powerbar to control.

None of the GHL equipment listed needs to be on a power socket and mine are on its own power strip and soon to be own power circuit. The P4 and Maxi has individual power supply black boxes while the KH Director/Doser combo shares a power brick. At the mixing station for example, I see a need for 3 controlled outlets: Booster pump, RO solenoid, and mixing pump. That leaves 3 free for the Maxi, Heater, and a free agent.

In addition to the very nice Abyzz and Red Dragon, any 1-10V input DC return pump can be controlled by the GHL with granular detail and any AC pump can be controlled via the powerbar. I use a Sicce AC return pump for example.

The P4 and SA devices don't currently talk to each other via WiFi and would need a PAB cable to talk to each other. In your drawing, the LAN/WiFi lines should be a PAB cable to the closest GHL device. SA units connect to the home WiFi unless in slave mode and will show as a separate entry under My Devices in the GHL Apps. Hopefully @Vinny@GHLUSA can chime in on more of the details of using a doser in SA versus slave mode for how things like the level sensors work. (for my understanding as well)

 

[Daniel76]

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[AZMSGT]

Hi @Vinny@GHLUSA, @vangvace @AZMSGT
I think I would like 4 level sensors (Max / Min RO & Max / Min Salt) Given this I assume I need an expansion card at mixing station as a SA maxi has one level port, that with a splitter can measure 2 (Min RO & Min Salt).

Nope, the SA Maxi can’t use an expansion card. If that’s what your asking. In this case you would need the expansion box and a level/sensor card in it For 4 sensors. Or depending on the distance you can use a sensor extension cable on the Y back to your Profilux with the sensor expansion card in the profilux.

1. Can I measure flow rate out of my RODI's 1/4 inch tubing?
2. Can I measure inline TDS out of RODI?
3. Can I measure (or is this not a thing) TDS in my RO water tank? Thought being that I will know the TDS inline, but I want to be able to detect any contaminants that may be sneaking in.
3. Can I use a salinty probe in my mixing station? Asking as it will not have the same tempurature as the DT so will this mean I need a temperature probe in the salt mix tank too, and 'link' that temp probe to just that salinity probe? Also knowing that it will go to zero one minute when I fill with fresh RO, then massively spike when I dump salt in to mix, then as I'm mixing, wanting to see when the salinity has stabilised at the level I want.
4. What would people suggest I measure in the Saltwater tank in the mixing station to ensure no contaminents creep into the system?

I don’t think there is a TDS sensor or a flow sensor small enough for the RODI that works with the Profilux..

Something to think about. When you go to fill your Salt water tank with RODI water. Your going to be pumping it in direct from one tank to the other. Why do you need a full sensor for that? Also for your RODI tank, why not just use a shut off manual/mechanical float instead of a sensor for filling it.

You probably won’t want to run the RODI 24-7. So after your RODI tank tells you it needs filling just open a valve till full. Then shut it off till you need to fill it again later. Use a Y or T tube to let high TDS water out of the system before filling your RODI tank.

I know your trying to automate allot of things, but there are still allot of manual things that need to happen when you make RODI and Saltwater.

 

[Daniel76]

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