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Mini Coop
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Good to know! See. As soon as I think I know - I find out how much I don’t. That’s why I live this hobby. Always a challenge and new things to learn!
Help with tangs. New to QT’ing these guys!
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Ever so challenging. Stressful and rewarding. QTing fish is difficult, and I have learned so much here at R2R!
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Mini Coop
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Absolutely! I couldn’t sleep last night because I was worried about the tangs. Lol. I would hate to be the reason a fish didn’t make it.
I feel like I’ve mastered ich and velvet, especially in smaller fish. But tangs are a whole new ball game. Just trying to learn as much as I can and successfully get them into the DT as soon as possible!
Doing a water change for them with some water from the main display today. And also adding the power head. I’ll update you all later this afternoon!!
I would keep them together at this point unless you see them fighting.
The naso looks fine. He's just adjusting. Mine took about 5 days before he ate much of anything and a few more days beyond that to start eating nori / seaweed. Dark spots on blonde nasos seems normal, or at least mine had a few discoloration areas but seemed less noticeable or went away over time
Check your HOB filter, thats where it would be, not in the tank. Watch your water quality and for ammonia.
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Mini Coop
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Yep. Just flakes in the hob, no big chunks. Used turbo start when I put the fish in...that usually helps. But ammonia was .25 yesterday. If I’m not sure they are eating I tend to overfeed. They aren’t super happy with all the messing I just did...
- Got some more sponge for filters. Those are in.
- 2 small powerheads are in, one in each back corner (not really powerful ones, but it’s what I have). I can get a bigger one tomorrow if you think I need it. They are rated for a 10-20 gallon tank.
- 15 gallon water change done with water from the main tank for good bacteria. (Was doing a big water change for the main tank today anyway!).
- prazipro started. With a double rated HOB, 2 air stones and 2 powerheads there should be enough oxygen to keep them going!
Lights are out, but turned on an LED close to them for ambient light for daylight so their direct light isn’t on for daytime.
I’ll feed them again later this evening and take the nori out. And leave them alone until morning. Hopefully the ammonia will be good so I can disrupt them as little as possible over the next few days and they can settle.
Anything else?
Also thanks for all of them help! You guys are awesome.
Ammonia really needs to zero, period, that should be your main concern. That will also effect the appetite and behavior and I really have to stress how important it is to maintain an absolute zero level of ammonia.
I usually pull together equipment I have laying around for my qt, I don't think it's so necessary to run out and buy another powerhead. But you do want to see a bunch of movement, as I stated earlier, these fish and the future ones you are planning, do not like still water.
I usually pull together equipment I have laying around for my qt, I don't think it's so necessary to run out and buy another powerhead. But you do want to see a bunch of movement, as I stated earlier, these fish and the future ones you are planning, do not like still water.
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Mini Coop
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Yep. Working on ammonia, but can't do 100% water change. I just ordered some bio spira, and have water going now to mix for another water change. My API tests I have not been happy with, I usually go by the ammonia badge, but didn't realize I was out (I keep them on hand). Using a 4 oz bottle of turbo start should have helped! Ammonia badge is on the way too. I am planning another 10-15 gallon water change tonight.
Ammonia in QT is my arch nemesis! Turbo start has usually been my answer for my last 2 QT's. But I had one blue star leopard in a 40 as well - - - not quite as much ammonia production
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
I would do daily 75% or better water changes until ammonia registers zero.Yep. Working on ammonia, but can't do 100% water change. I just ordered some bio spira, and have water going now to mix for another water change. My API tests I have not been happy with, I usually go by the ammonia badge, but didn't realize I was out (I keep them on hand). Using a 4 oz bottle of turbo start should have helped! Ammonia badge is on the way too. I am planning another 10-15 gallon water change tonight.
Ammonia in QT is my arch nemesis! Turbo start has usually been my answer for my last 2 QT's. But I had one blue star leopard in a 40 as well - - - not quite as much ammonia production
Yes, tangs are very dirty fish!
Yep. Working on ammonia, but can't do 100% water change. I just ordered some bio spira, and have water going now to mix for another water change. My API tests I have not been happy with, I usually go by the ammonia badge, but didn't realize I was out (I keep them on hand). Using a 4 oz bottle of turbo start should have helped! Ammonia badge is on the way too. I am planning another 10-15 gallon water change tonight.
Ammonia in QT is my arch nemesis! Turbo start has usually been my answer for my last 2 QT's. But I had one blue star leopard in a 40 as well - - - not quite as much ammonia production
Do you have some mature rubble or bio media you could put in your hob. Another one of my weird tips, I don't run a totally bare qt but we won't go into that, not in the mood for a debate. But hiding places and the back of the tank covered, either painted or a dark background, they do not feel safe being totally exposed. I know many people don't think of it and may not even think it's important, but for some fish it is, even necessary.
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Mini Coop
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OH WOW! Ok. I wouldn't have done that much! So I will get water ready in both mixing stations. ( I use one for the main tank only - but won't need to do another change for a couple weeks or more). Hopefully the bacteria will help too.
So - how will the bacteria ever establish if changing 75% of water every day. By attaching to the glass and the pvc?
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
In the sponge media you have in a HOB filter or the like. It’s a struggle for sure, but ammonia will kill fish very fast. BioSpira will give you a great head start. Did you buy an ammonia alert badge to ensure you’re not getting somewhat accurate ammonia readings? Anything other than yellow it’s time for a giant water change.
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Mini Coop
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OMG - I am an idiot - I have a bunch of Live Rock in my tub in my sump! I just have never used live rock in my QT because of how "bare" I have learned to keep it and afraid of it absorbing the medications (I very rarely have not had to run copper in a QT). Which will bring me to another question for later. Obviously if I see spots there will be no question. But if I don't - because they are tangs, do you think I should run a 30 day copper treatment as precaution?
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Mini Coop
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Using API right now - badges will be delivered tomorrow (no place close to me has them). Did a 15 gallon change already today - will do at least another 20-30 gallon change tonight. Getting water ready now. Bio Spira and getting ready to add some live rock from the sump - hopefully that will provide some hiding spots and good bacteria!
@Mini Coop
In response to various things you posted
In response to various things you posted
- You want your ammonia at 0. Doing a 25% water change only removed 25% of the ammonia. It's possible your test kit may be giving you a false reading. I have had older API kits do that. You could do a test on your main tank and see if it reads 0.25 also (which an established tank would not, so this would give you a better idea if your ammonia is truly high or not).
- I do not keep a running QT up all the time, but I do keep some removable media / sponges in my sump that I transfer to my QT tank whenever I need to set it up. This gives me some established bacteria. As you're probably aware, very little of your bacteria is actually in the water. It will live within / on surface area. Putting some live rock from your main tank might be a good idea at this point (if you choose to treat with medications, you may not want to go this route).
- I am not a QT or treatment expert, but I personally would not start any type of treatment at this point unless I observed some type of indicator such as ich / white spot, stringy poop, infection, or behavior indicative of some type of ailment (such as labored breathing). In your videos your fish looked like they were swimming fine and appeared healthy. Not eating isn't ideal, but it's not unusual for some fish for several days after being shipped. I would continue to offer a variety of foods in small quantities several times a day and continue to offer seaweed. My blonde naso would only eat very small pieces of mysis and reef plankton after a few days and wouldn't touch any seaweed. After a few more days, he started eating the seaweed. Your goal right now should be to keep your fish as stress free as possible and getting them eating. Once you get your fish eating, then you should consider it you need to do any type of treatment(s).
- Adding some more water movement is good. I think the small powerheads you added is fine. Blacking out the sides of your QT is also a good idea. Just get some dark paper or black trash bag and tape around 1 to 3 sides. I don't think tangs are that skittish, but it's still a good idea. FWIW, I've had anthias that would hide if they noticed the least bit of movement anywhere within 30 feet of the tank when I would QT them. I literally would have to hide in the other room so they wouldn't freak out.
Bacteria does not live in your water column, they live on the surface of rocks, substrate, or other media like seachem matrix or a sponge. Fill that dang hob up with your live rock. Again, you are just begging for me to get into a debate, I do not believe in prophylactically treating with copper, I do so for internal parasites because I believe it's about a 99%(an exaggeration but you get my point) chance they have have them. Any rock you add will absorb the copper, but anytime you are treating with copper, you should be testing; so in the end you will reach, monitor, and maintain the therapeutic level.
So even when running a bare qt, you need something for the bacteria to live in, otherwise your fish are just in an empty un-cycled container of water.
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Mini Coop
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I guess I know all of this - the part I was missing was I usually have sponges soaking in my sump for QT, but ran out of them and had torn down the 40, sterilized and re-set up in 24 hours. This is not my norm, but had to get fish asap so I can move my Sailfin and foxface out of my old tank, which I thought I had months to do. Not so much.
Just amazing how your brain forgets things! I was also completely relying on the turbo start which appears to have failed me this time.
- @Daniel Waters - I always treat with prazi. Always, as @lion king said. A lot of problems have come from that. And yes - they FREAK out every time I even enter the basement. I am getting black construction paper tomorrow to put on the sides and back. Right now I have it covered with a towel. I am also going to switch heaters - I have a glass top on this tank, and it is staying around 80-81 even though I only have the heater set at 78. I am taking it out when I do the water change tonight (poor guys - more stress). . . . I will try to do it as incognito as possible.
I added 3 LARGE pieces of live rock to the tank just now. They are already hiding behind it and appreciating the cover! Water mixing for large water change now that I can do before bed.
We will get them situated. My goal is to get all in working order tonight, bacteria will be here tomorrow and I will have enough water for 3 - 30 gallon changes just in case! OYE! Hopefully they will settle in!
Good news: I did watch the powder blue eat some of the mysis and rods I fed tonight! Swimming through the water column and nipping it out! Hopefully she will be a good example for the Naso! (2 weeks until I name them!)
Just be sure you check that your new heater is working correctly. As someone who has unwittingly baked fish in QT, I know the dangers of a malfunctioning heater!
The best insurance you could have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E2UFGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one inexpensive, easiest to use, and has great bells and whistles. I have a temp controller on every one of my tanks, since the wild temp swings I had one year that spurred an ich outbreak. I live where at the change of seasons, we run our ac and heater in the same day.
This one inexpensive, easiest to use, and has great bells and whistles. I have a temp controller on every one of my tanks, since the wild temp swings I had one year that spurred an ich outbreak. I live where at the change of seasons, we run our ac and heater in the same day.
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Mini Coop
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I live in Ohio - we have the same! I have an APEX for the main tank, but never really worried about QT. When you have $300 in fish in a tank - insurance is a good thing!
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