Help with wrasse
- Thread starter cmcoker
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OP
OP
I noticed increased breathing Saturday evening, his behavior had started to change before the prazipro, but was not as severe.
I probably clouded the issue with the prazipro.
when I did the big water change yesterday, I did not replace the prazipro.
Also, when I started the TTM last Monday, the spots where on the Goby. The wrasse was fine. They came from different stores, with the wrasse added last Saturday.
Goby doesn't seem out as much now, but is not breathing hard that I can see. He is tiny though..
I probably clouded the issue with the prazipro.
when I did the big water change yesterday, I did not replace the prazipro.
Also, when I started the TTM last Monday, the spots where on the Goby. The wrasse was fine. They came from different stores, with the wrasse added last Saturday.
Goby doesn't seem out as much now, but is not breathing hard that I can see. He is tiny though..
OP
OP
And I am supposed to do another transfer today... I was debating what to do.
Continue as planned.
Separate the fish, continue TTM in separate containers.
I could move the goby to buckets and just do TTM with it, leaving the wrasse where it is.
Try a dip of some sort on the wrasse between transfers..
I don't know what's best at this point. I feel like I should just continue as planned, but don't want to kill it by moving, though he looks on his way out regardless.
This sucks.
Continue as planned.
Separate the fish, continue TTM in separate containers.
I could move the goby to buckets and just do TTM with it, leaving the wrasse where it is.
Try a dip of some sort on the wrasse between transfers..
I don't know what's best at this point. I feel like I should just continue as planned, but don't want to kill it by moving, though he looks on his way out regardless.
This sucks.
I personally would do a FW dip in-between the transfers. This will a) Tell you whether or not he has flukes b) Relieve the gills if a more serious disease, such as velvet, is in play here. Instructions below:
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
I would do this.
I treat all my wrasse with Prazi - but after they eat a week or two first. Sometimes a month or more. I've never lost any to prazi.
saltysilverado
Active Member
Personally I'd go 24 hours no medication no food. Lights off. Sometimes the unknown killer can be stress; caused by the fluctuations in the water. Good luck and hope they all make it!
OP
OP
Basically what I did, yesterday to today. No improvement at all.
Just transferred tank, freshwater dip done per instructions.
Only thing I saw come off him, I think.
After dip. While he still looks terrible, his color is better..
melypr1985
totally addicted
Lets see if @Humblefish or @3FordFamily can identify that for you. I'm not quite there on my knowledge yet.
edit to say: excellent pictures by the way
edit to say: excellent pictures by the way
Poor thing. I am sorry this happened. I am not sure on the id. Looks like a flatworm, but seems to be too big for "fluke", but I may be misjudging the size. Can you tell size for us? Good pics, I just need to see under microscope for definitive id. 
Either way, prazipro would help as would fresh dips. May need to treat for secondary infection with a gram negative antibiotic.
Also, keep the QT dark. Stress is a huge factor with wrasses. I have had them play dead many times when the QT is too active before they adjust.
Either way, prazipro would help as would fresh dips. May need to treat for secondary infection with a gram negative antibiotic.Also, keep the QT dark. Stress is a huge factor with wrasses. I have had them play dead many times when the QT is too active before they adjust.
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OP
OP
Poor thing. I am sorry this happened. I am not sure on the id. Looks like a flatworm, but seems to be too big for "fluke", but I may be misjudging the size. Can you tell size for us? Good pics, I just need to see under microscope for definitive id.
Also, keep the QT dark. Stress is a huge factor with wrasses. I have had them play dead many times when the QT is too active before they adjust.
I have been keeping it darkish, just indirect light except for the pic.
I saved the thing that fell off, it's in freshwater now, thinking I can put in some vodka? To try to preserve and put under the scope at work tomorrow..
Size was like 0.2cm under the lens, so probably under half that.
I will post pics from scope if it doesn't disintegrate by tomorrow
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
Tough call, I'm not too great at IDing but those do appear a bit big to be flukes. Maybe humble can help.
OP
OP
Just found the one, 5 minutes per posted directions,, I set a timer.
I thought I saw a tiny, like salt grain size, white dot come from gills also but was too small to even track.
Probably from an egg that hatched that the first round of Prazipro didn't eradicate. How is the wrasse looking now?
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