Here we go! TinCanHero's First SW build - 93 gal 30" x 30" x 24" (LxWxH) Cube :)

TinCanHero

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Hey guys, And welcome to my SW aquarium Build thread / diary.

This will be my first SW tank, I've had many, many fresh water tanks over the years but have been to scared to try SW until now. So any help, tips and general hand holding would be most welcome! :)

The gear im using is:

1 xEheim return pump 1500-3000L/h
1 xBubble magus curve 5 skimmer
2 x jaebo SOW4 wave makers
1 x AI Hydra 26 LED light
1 x 25kg bag of betta substrate sand
2 x 40lbs caribsea southsea dry rock
1 x Tetra ht25 300w heater (will upgrade soon and stick a backup in)
1 x elitech st1000 heater / cooler controller
1 x 12w 2500lm 6500k daylight bulb for the refuge

3 chamber sump
30x30x24 rimless tank with back right corner overflow

Salt: Red Sea Coral Pro
Starter Bacteria: dr tims one and only.
ecosystem aquarium mirical mud x 3lbs

So here we go!

I got the tank second hand for a good price although it seemed like a bad omen from the outset as i broke down on the way to get it! i had to rent a van and try again the next day, after alot of haste getting it out of the sellers house (who makes door frames that small! haha) we got it home!
I received a tank, stand, plumbing (parts needed changing), return pump, a broken net cover, some new puragen(thanks? :D), a bunch of heaters (for the bin), a heater controller, refractometer and some random bits and bobs.

I payed £100 for the lot, the included gate vave, puragen, and pump probably is worth that secondhand alone. The puragen went into one of my FW aquariums - I'm quite happy with it! The only downside to the tank i can see is one scratch on the front and the overflow box glass looks a little high. (it was added and drilled later) -- turns out its not a issue, not sure why the seller had one :)

I first of all decided to put the tank into my bedroom, I've had 3 4ft tanks and some 60l's in there all at once with no issues. I wisely decided against the 6ft tank going in there when i got it, however i thought i could get away with this size.
So we lugged the sucker up into place, already i was second guessing myself. I decided to give it a shot anyway, so i started to fill her up. I think i got just over half way before i decided to stop and test for a day before slowly continuing. Well that day turned into a week or more of my doing napkin math and trying to convince myself it would work, in the end i came to the conclusion i was crazy for even trying - lol. the math told me it would have been safer for the 6ft tank to be up there.

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So there we are a week or 2 later with that feeling of dejavu bringing the tank back down. Man was it much harder. Going up seemed pretty easy with 2 of us, going down however we almost dropped the tank and had to slide it down in the end on its side to my horror. Lucky, after alot of foul language we got the tank into its new home without any damage!

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I started by making my scape, i then went around and glued it all into place with some CA.
After looking at it for a while, im a little worried about one stone in the front that may cause flow issues. we will see, its a little late to move it now :) (i know probably better to do it now but ya know.. :/ )

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I've hung my light on a cable hanging kit, i kinda wish i went for a arm now, it was difficult to get level on wires and is totally but ugly the way i mounted it to the ceiling. ill change it soon, but for now it works i guess.
I decided on 12" above the tank, it seems to give a good coverage. I'm currently using David Saxby's profile, although I'm a little concerned it may be to bright? it runs at 90%+ at its peak? any suggestions on a profile or some tweaks? unfortunately i do not own a par meter to test.

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Here is my sump layout, Skimmer is in the input chamber, the center chamber will be for a refugium and then i have my heater and return in the last chamber. I tried my best with cable management, compared to my other systems its fairly tidy, although i suppose there isn't 20 miles of cable under my FW tanks ;) -- seems the tape on the wave makers is useless thou. so there just hanging for now.. still some work to do :)

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So here i go on filling, The RODI system is slow in this cold weather. Its taken my 50gpd system 5 days to fill my 210l drum, on the last day i came up with the idea of running a 4m line from the water input to the RODI device, i then coiled the line up and popped in the sink with some room temp water. crazy how much that upped the flow!

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One more day and the tank is full.

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Great! or not. I turn on the return pump and... bulkhead leaking... no idea how, but it seems it started after i turned the pump on. its been fine for the last few days with the overflow 3/4 full. blah, i guess that extra pressure started a leek. My fault for using old bulkhead rubber gaskets! that and the fact its impossible to get a spanner in there to grip the nut well. I've emptied the overflow and I've undone the bulkhead in question. a quick dry and clean of the inside of the overflow and the rubber and we can try again.. "Oh, wait. How has the rubber got on the bottom side of the tank? aint it meant to be on the top side?" that's a quote from me last night as im scratching my head like a 10 year old amazed by some magic trick. again after a hour of back ache i came up with the plan of using a bit of cotton to pull it back through.. man i wish i thought of that sooner! Take 2 of sealing the tank.. Yup that did it, i also managed to get a set of mole grips in from the back by removing some of the polystyrene -- the perks of using half inch :)

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Time to add the salt! :) I'm aiming for 0.024

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The TDS read 13 in the tank, i assume this is from the new sand / rock.

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I started by knowing i would need about 3/4 of a tub of salt. so i rased the temp to 20c as it said on the box, added half of the tub slowly over about 20mins, waited until it all dissolved and came back and tested. Way under as expected. so over a 2.5 hour period i added more until i hit 0.023/24 i expected it to maybe rise a little since the water was still a little cloudy so i headed off to bed since i was already a hour over bed time.

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I got up this morning and checked again, and it read 0.026/27 with clear water in the tank.

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So i thought id ask if it was ok to just take a little out when i got home and replace with RODI water to bring it back down to 0.024. however when i got home i tested it again and it now reads 0.027/28 so Its got me a little confused.

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I know Redsea say on there tub do not mix for more than 4hrs, I understand this is because the trace elements precipitate? would this effect the salinity by bringing it up? could this be due to my refractometer, i had it free with the tank.
Would it be ok to just bring it back down with RODI?

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I'm going to use the dead shrimp method, i picked up one raw kind prawn since that is all i could find raw. the lady behind the counter looked at me stupid when i asked for one, when i told her why she looked at me even more like i was crazy - haha.
Here is the little guy.

[pic]

My cycle plan is to have the skimmer and light off. add the shrimp, after 24h or when i start to see a ammonia / nitrite spike forming ill add the Dr Tims then after a further 24-48h when the spike is formed ill take the shrimp out, pop the lights and skimmer on and watch the params. When i start to see the ammonia and nitrite fall to 0 and the nitrates increase ill do a water change, and ghost feed some cubes to keep the bacteria happy until i add a pair of small clown fish. the plan is wait it out for another month or 2 until everything is stable and I'm through all of the ugly and nasty phases before i add anymore livestock (bar a few clean up crew members if needed). Not to sure when i should be adding my "Miracle" mud thou, at the start of cycle?

My maintenance I have planned is a 20-25% water change weekly after my cycle is done. I plan to use this method until I stock the tank with coral and it starts to grow, ill then probably cut to a 10% weekly with dosing.

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Again, any tips and help would be much appreciated. Ill hopefully keep you guys posted with many updates, maybe i could use this as a diary? :)

Kind regards, and happy reefing!
TinCanHero.

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TinCanHero

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Thanks guys!
That looks very nice! :) What kind of coral are you looking to keep?
Thanks!
Ill be looking to keep a mixed tank where possible. I really like zoa's so they will take up a good chunk of the lower rock, id like a branching hammer, and possibly a BTA if one will behave for me :) umm, some acans (if i can) etc id like a few bits of SPS too, maybe a few acro's for the higher up area's and some monti's. id also like to get the back wall covered in GSP / encrusting monti's over time too. I still have alot of learning to do on what is compatible and the individual care needs of each, so it will be slow and steady with a ton of research before each purchase.

For my first lot, i've been thinking maybe 4-5 frags. those being 1-2 zoa's, 1 GSP, 1 pulsing X (to be removed later or to be contained heavily) and maybe a toadstool. Any recommendations? i like the "Neon stuff"
 
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TinCanHero

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Hey guys, I'm back with a update! :)

So first off, the salinity was a issue. I realized after posting his that since im not running a ATO right now ofc my salinity went up, I was caught quite off guard by how much evaporation takes place in 24H my tank looses about 3-4L a day!
The second issue with salinity was the fact that my refractometer wasn't calibrated. I noticed (after i read the instructions... ;Facepalm) it needed doing from time to time after reading the panflet in my case. funny enough it was just after i took the picture in my last post that i even realized it was instructions. It was quite a pain to do as the protection cap is missing so the screw has rusted quite badly, i was able to reopen the screws slot by scraping it with a small pin nail to clean it up, quite lucky that the screwdriver that came with it has a hex handle, i was able to fit a 8mm spanner on the handle to help me turn the screw with one hand while holding the screwdriver as tight to the screw as i could to stop it slipping. I think a new one is in order soon, however this one is fully calibrated correctly to 0 now :)

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So after everything settled down i tested my water (im currently using my fresh water API tests right now) and added my shrimp (prawn) before bed this was the 31st of Jan.

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Over the next 3 days, the 1st, 2nd and 3rd (day) my ammonia rose in the tank to about 3-3.5 ppm. It was now time to take the prawn out and add the Dr Tims. I believe i also added the mud maybe a few hours before adding the Tims. to do this i used takeaway boxes.

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At this point i was expecting the ammonia to go to 0 within 48h, a sign that the added bacteria are at work and we are progressing well. However over the next 5 days i've seen nothing move, im quite dissapointed in the bacteria brand i got.
Today 5 days after adding the bacteria i decided it should be okey to turn on my skimmer. On max it was overflowing quite alot, i made the mistake of setting it to min for about 10 minutes while reading online. i thought i remembered someone saying to run it like that for a few days until its broken in and then fine tune. Turns out i read it wrong and it was set it to max. i turned it back and it was skimming pretty good on min, ive had it going for around 12h and there is some good dry skim in the neck and some wet skim in the cup, overall not to bad for being new :)

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So yeah, here i am. I think ill see if i can get maybe 1kg of good cycled rock from my LFS to pop in my sump this weekend. I have to pop back due to one of my wavemakers not sounding to good out of the box, i could hear it upstairs :/

Best regards, TinCanHero.
 
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Hey guys, back for another small update.
I managed to pick up another 2 Row-4's for a good price second hand, couldn't say no really. Ive got these on a long pulse mode pointed at the dead spots i was worried about, ill set them up in there final places when i get my Sow-4 back from my LFS. I took a trip down to my LFS on the 10th, I was looking for a ATO but unfortunately they where out of stock. I did however take my wavemaker back and a few days later i got a call from them agreeing it was faulty and they will have a new one for me when i go next down. I also told them about my experience with the DR Tims i got, they where nice enough to give me a free bottle of the Seachem stability to try.

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I've been dosing it as the instructions state for 6 days now and I'm testing every one - two days. I was curious of the results of this product when tested in a vial. Granted this probably isn't a valid scientific test but i was curious after i thought of it so i tried it. I added 4ml of water to 1ml of bacteria, capped it and rested it so it was in the tank water to maintain tank temp.

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After 48-60 hours the results where in... bacteria vial is on the left.

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Anyway, not much has happened in my cycle yet. Until today (16th) that is, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate has not changed since day 1 however it looks like iv'e got the start of a brown diatom bloom. Maybe I'm misinformed but i assumed this was meant to happen after your ammonia hits 0 and your nitrates have rose? I know the API kits are not that great but nothing to my eve has changed so far.
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Best regards, and happy reefing :)
 

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Are you cycling with the lights off? FWIW, I would. Nothing to grow from them except algae.

 
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Are you cycling with the lights off? FWIW, I would. Nothing to grow from them except algae.
Currently i have the light on running their normal schedule. The plan was to cycle with no lights and turn them on after the bacteria got established. However my LFS recommended to have them on so that's what I've done. What would you say, turn them off until cycle is complete? just going through a Diatom phase atm.
 
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What would you say, turn them off until cycle is complete? just going through a Diatom phase atm.
I always cycle lights off. I do not want algae to get a hold without any competition. In my current build I even let my fully cycled live rock mature for a while before finally running the lights. But, because nothing is easy in this hobby, some folks run with lights on to encourage algae to work through its cycles (short cycles of algae will be inevitable with either method).

If you are following the recommendations of a trusted LFS, then I would stick with that.

 
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Back for another update!

Went to my LFS again today to pick up my replacement SOW-4 and a ATO. While i was there i picked up a Iodine test kit, im thinking if im buying one or two at a time its not so painful :) That makes Iodine, Cal, Mag and Phosphate Salifert kits i have now, + my AI stuff that ill be replacing soon.
My haul.

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The ATO I got was the best my LFS had two float switches, a pump and a plug. I assumed there was a alarm if the ATO reservoir was empty, but I guessed wrong.
Anyway, I decided to used my salt bucket for my reservoir, I double bagged my salt to keep it dry until I get a new bucket. a few drilled holes and i have a reservoir set up ready to fill. A little testing by running the line back into the bucket and were good to go!

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I set up the float switch inside the sump. the bracket that it came with is a bit crap. it folds 90deg and has alot of play. You had the option of using half of the rod length as it came in two parts, it would have worked with half but by using the full length i could kinda wedge it in to reduce movement of the float switch. I may have to come up with a new holding system in the future, we will see.

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No idea if its dialed in yet, i guess ill find out in the morning :)
Next i added my "new" SOW-4 back to the tank. Im almost 100% certain its the same one i dropped off. In-fact id probably put money on it, ill make a call tomorrow to see what they say.
Anyway, here is under my cabinet, i had to add another power strip today as i ran out of plug sockets! its getting a little cramped in there now! im so glad i thought about cable management from the start, it would be a nightmare by now otherwise!

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And finally here is a shot of my tank in its current state, quite a nice brown diatom bloom on the go. I still need to do a little more research on flow optimization and put my 4 wave makers into there "final" starting spots, I think i need to get a attachment for my return too as its blowing a hole in my sand bed in the middle of the rockwork. Ive got alot of room to play with my flow, from 3,500LPH to 19,000LPH or 8x to 45x tank turn over.

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Just sitting back and waiting for this Ammonia to drop :)
Kind regards and happy reefing :)
 
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YES! Another 93 cube!

@Katrina71 check it out!

Welcome aboard!
Hey! Thanks dude! The 93G is such a nice size right! ive taken a quick look through your build thread, nice job from what i've read so far!!

Sweet tank!
Hey! thanks! Hopefully this is the start of a great system! :)

I always cycle lights off. I do not want algae to get a hold without any competition. In my current build I even let my fully cycled live rock mature for a while before finally running the lights. But, because nothing is easy in this hobby, some folks run with lights on to encourage algae to work through its cycles (short cycles of algae will be inevitable with either method).

If you are following the recommendations of a trusted LFS, then I would stick with that.
Yeah, That was my thinking also. I guess its a bit late now, however i guess im getting the Diatom phase done a little sooner than i would have if i still had my lights off. Im closely watching for that nitrate spike and will try to WC as much of it out when my cycle lets me to minimize the algae phase. My latest FW tank is just pulling through its ugly phases now :)
 
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Hey! I saw your request on my cycling article but I felt it might be easier to reply here.

This looks nothing like the Dr Tims bottle that I have seen in the past. Leaves me thinking one of three things. Its new updated packaging that isn't on any websites yet. It's very old packaging and the product is long past expired. Or its a counterfeit product. I'd say that is a likely reason it isn't working.
I'm not a huge fan of Stability since it normally works very slow. I wouldn't expect much change with it in under a week. I can't make out the expiration date on the bottle in the picture but make sure it isn't old. You may also want to check the expiration on your test kits.
 
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Hey! I saw your request on my cycling article but I felt it might be easier to reply here.

This looks nothing like the Dr Tims bottle that I have seen in the past. Leaves me thinking one of three things. Its new updated packaging that isn't on any websites yet. It's very old packaging and the product is long past expired. Or its a counterfeit product. I'd say that is a likely reason it isn't working.
I'm not a huge fan of Stability since it normally works very slow. I wouldn't expect much change with it in under a week. I can't make out the expiration date on the bottle in the picture but make sure it isn't old. You may also want to check the expiration on your test kits.
Hey @Brew12 thanks so much for the reply!
You are correct, it is a totally different packaging. This 'One and Only' is produced in France by Aquarium systems, my LFS store told me its the same stuff just made in France for the European market. I was slightly skeptical myself so i contacted Dr Tims Aquatics via YT and email to confirm it was the same product and they too confirmed that it was the same and made by them just made in France by AS for the EU market. I cant remember the expiry date off the top of my head by it was in the 2020's either 21 or 22, my LFS said they restock them every month or so as they sell allot.
21/9/22 is the Exp date on the stability, never heared of it until my LFS gave me a bottle to try since the Tims didn't seem to do anything. The kit im using is a API kit, i know there not the best for low range but for cycling i think they are clear enough. Ive tested the kit on my FW tanks and some RODI and it seems to be reading correct. I got the kit back in October, exp is 12/22 on all bottles. Ill be taking some water down to my LFS if i end up down that way on Sunday, hopefully there kit can rule out any funny business but im 99.9% sure my kit is reading good.

So yeah, just playing the waiting game atm. ive had my skimmer on for 4 days now now. that should be pumping as much O2 into the water as possible, however my e-overflow has been adding air bubbles + my WM agitate the surface so i think i had a good enough gas exchange and O2 supply?

Just sitting back and waiting :)

Kind regards, and thanks again!
Tincanhero.
 

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Hey @Brew12 thanks so much for the reply!
You are correct, it is a totally different packaging. This 'One and Only' is produced in France by Aquarium systems, my LFS store told me its the same stuff just made in France for the European market. I was slightly skeptical myself so i contacted Dr Tims Aquatics via YT and email to confirm it was the same product and they too confirmed that it was the same and made by them just made in France by AS for the EU market. I cant remember the expiry date off the top of my head by it was in the 2020's either 21 or 22, my LFS said they restock them every month or so as they sell allot.
21/9/22 is the Exp date on the stability, never heared of it until my LFS gave me a bottle to try since the Tims didn't seem to do anything. The kit im using is a API kit, i know there not the best for low range but for cycling i think they are clear enough. Ive tested the kit on my FW tanks and some RODI and it seems to be reading correct. I got the kit back in October, exp is 12/22 on all bottles. Ill be taking some water down to my LFS if i end up down that way on Sunday, hopefully there kit can rule out any funny business but im 99.9% sure my kit is reading good.

So yeah, just playing the waiting game atm. ive had my skimmer on for 4 days now now. that should be pumping as much O2 into the water as possible, however my e-overflow has been adding air bubbles + my WM agitate the surface so i think i had a good enough gas exchange and O2 supply?

Just sitting back and waiting :)

Kind regards, and thanks again!
Tincanhero.
Very interesting! Never thought that it would be produced in France also! Guess I should have used 4 options!

I do agree that the API test kits are more than good enough for cycling. Heck, I still use their nitrate kit. I'm not obsessed with keeping nitrates low so I find it to be easy and "good enough".

I've seen tanks have a hard time cycling when they had chlorine in the water. 4 stage RODI systems aren't very good at removing chloramine and it won't read on a TDS meter. I'm not sure if chloramine is commonly used in Europe. Fortunately, its not a problem I have to deal with. If you do take a water sample to your LFS you may want to ask them to do a quick chlorine check.

And yes, the skimmer and overflow should be adding more than enough O2 to the water.

Fortunately, since you don't have livestock, waiting is a fantastic option. Any change in the nitrite test yet? That is the one I would be keying on.
 
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Very interesting! Never thought that it would be produced in France also! Guess I should have used 4 options!

I do agree that the API test kits are more than good enough for cycling. Heck, I still use their nitrate kit. I'm not obsessed with keeping nitrates low so I find it to be easy and "good enough".

I've seen tanks have a hard time cycling when they had chlorine in the water. 4 stage RODI systems aren't very good at removing chloramine and it won't read on a TDS meter. I'm not sure if chloramine is commonly used in Europe. Fortunately, its not a problem I have to deal with. If you do take a water sample to your LFS you may want to ask them to do a quick chlorine check.

And yes, the skimmer and overflow should be adding more than enough O2 to the water.

Fortunately, since you don't have livestock, waiting is a fantastic option. Any change in the nitrite test yet? That is the one I would be keying on.
Yeah, i was quite surprised also! I'm still slightly skeptical due to the dosing being off. this EU product is 250ml for 1000L, while the normal Dr Tims is 240ml for 450L?

I think you may be on to something, Chlorine is added to our water around here, we don't use fluorite here in Wales as some other countries do. I (Think?) have a 5 stage RODI system, I think its 1 filter, 2 carbon, membrane and then DI resin. Here is a Pic of my RODI unit, i didn't realize i hadn't posted one prior :)

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That is very interesting what you say about it not effecting the TDS, I was unaware of that. I was under the impression that Chlorine would breakdown naturally within 24h? I somewhat remember my late father leaving buckets of water out in the bath over night as a kid to do a WC on the aquarium.

Nothing has changed yet on the nitrite as of last night. I'm testing once every 48h for all 3 atm, I was testing twice daily at one point :p

I'm just sitting and waiting, looking after my water. After all where just glorified water keepers really at the end of the day :) I'm in no rush, although ive had to stop browsing coral online. Its starting to break my heart to see WYSIWYG coral id buy in a heartbeat selling lol :(

I'll keep testing and post an update when i see action. I may start taking bets on a date :)

-- After googling 5 stage vs 4 I'm even more confused :p some claim it to be a 5 stage while some add more polishing filters to claim a 5 stage. Ill ask my LFS to test if they can. ill look into a small addon canister where i could maybe add more "DIR" or another type of polishing filter if its detectable.

Thank you & kind regards,
TinCanHero.
 

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