Discussion in 'Battlecorals' started by Battlecorals, May 31, 2018.
Has an elevated SG level had any affect of algae growth, cheato or other wise?
1.026, old school SeaTest salinity meter. 20 years running. Recently got RedSea refractometer, reads the same. Oh well, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
My concern is the corals might adapt to the higher salt levels and not do as well in others aquariums that keep theirs at water at NSW conditions.
Corals are highly adaptable.
Salinity in the ocean does vary from place to place but usually to the lower side near rivers that enter the ocean etc.
I was thinking of getting the Milwaukee refractometer and read somewhere that they do not read right, i do not remember what it was but I did not buy one.
I had a similar issue with my refractometer not reading correctly. Found my levels were at 1.027 and polyp extension on my acropora especially was better than ever. Think you may be on to something! Now just getting your fish used to it. Mine were not fans of the higher salinity, which is how I figured out it was high in the first place.
My salinity is 1.023 never had no problems and corals grow like weeds. Been doing this for over 20 years. Different strokes for different folks that’s what makes this hobby great.
Polyp extension is thought of as a positive in the hobby but it is not always the case and sometimes it means something is wrong.
Best polyp extension I have ever seen is right before one of my sps lost its tissue.
While not usually the case in a reef aquarium but polyps are also used for respiration and extend them in low oxygen environments like bacteria blooms.
It also happens to absorb more light or when a coral is starving.
There other reasons too..
It is like no polyp extension does not mean something is always wrong either.
Right there with you. Three different brands of calibration fluid, each differ by 1+ PPT. Tested with manual refractometer, ice cap digital, and GHL conductivity probe.
Same here except I have like 5 bottles. I tried Salifert and it seemed to be right in the middle with one of my others..
Stuff that helps.. Shake the bottle well and discard the first few drops.
ive notice my tank always looks better when before i have to top it up with fresh water . Ive had it over 1.30 before and everything including corals look fine
I've got all manor of salinity checkers: old school swing arm, several refractometers, Milwaukee Digital refractometer, Pinpoint Salinity Monitor, Apex salinity probe. They are all somewhat accurate, but they never match! I find on average refractometers, Milwaukee included, measure about .001 high. The only thing I trust now is something I found years ago, a Tropic Marin Precision Hydrometer. It's dead accurate and with the temp adjustment tables, I use it to measure twice a week without having to adjust water temp. I even use it to calibrate my Apex Probe now since it's far easier and less of a pain than the calibration fluids. Using the TMPH, I maintain at 1.0264 (+/- 0.0002).
I dont really think sg/sal being high or low is as important as consistancy.
I cant help but wonder if other simple relatively unmonitored conditions change the outcomes of livestock in high or low levels though.
Would high levels have different effects in a tank with high flow vs low flow, strong light vs soft lights, crowding vs 1 or 2 frags etc?
Ive burnt a good hr since i found this post, reading and searching to see what other tests people have done.
I've had the same issue and found same solution. I use the Tropic Marin Hydrometer to make a calibration standard that I use for everything. I had some creeping salinity issues that caused problems early on and I've been chasing a solution ever since. My standard testing method now involves a refractometer and a Pinpoint salinity monitor....both calibrated to hydrometer verified standard.
I absolutely LOVE my precision floating hydrometer. Eliminating user calibration removes a ton of potential error.
(I've been brewing beer for 20+ years and I've used floating hydrometers there from the beginning.... it just "feels" normal to me.)
I see from the ICP test that you posted a reading of 0 for Iodine. Is this normal for you? Another thread you posted attributed low Iodine to tissue recession. Anything adverse happening in your tank when this ICP test was taken?
I usually keep my SG a little high as well and my tank loves it. I usually go .027 or .028
I definitely try to keep my iodine from bottoming out. Ive always got some kind of hiccup going on lol so its hard to pinpoint exactly. I do think its better to have measurable iodine in the system assuming the triton results are somewhat accurate.
I recently bought an IceCap tester and ICP test confirmed my salinity was 1.022. (ICP said raise salinity lol ..) Milwaukee would read 1.024 no matter what. From 1.022-1.022. Maybe the lens goes bad over time?
They are just inaccurate from my experience. Mine was consistent, but consistently 0.002 off.
The Milwaukee meter need to be calibrated with there solution . I e/mailed them with a similar issue.
They have there own fluids to use on the product .
Always running my tank at 1.027 and creeps up to 1.028
With running higher Salinity in your tank the available oxygen content or amount the water can hold decreases so you need more flow and surface agitation to help oxygenate the tank.
When folks have lower flow tanks they would likely see better results with lower salinity levels and more negative results from raising the salinity.
In keeping more challenging corals I have been more successful running my salinity at natural levels and slightly elevated with an absurd amount of flow in the tank, been this way for quite some years now and would not change a thing.
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