High tds in water and big coral order coming in

[nano reef]

I just came back from a 3 day trip and discovered I left rodi on a slow trickle! But even worse I discovered that a 5 gallon jug I just filled before I left had high tds so I checked all my tanks and they are high! Its a brand new BRS 4 stage unit and I only had it up and running for about a month! The color indicator didn't change but a little more then halfway(actually just ordered refills)until I got home and just discovered it tonight when I went to make the water!

To make things real bad is I have a massive order of high end zoas and 2 holy grail acan colonys coming in tomorrow.

What should I do? Can I safely changed more then 50 percent? I always checked with my meter but never filled a cup up I just ran the water over the probes! I now know that was a big mistake! I must have left it on before but crazy thing is it was only a little more then half orange and I read after its 3/4 you should change the last filter! Its hard to believe how fast they are used up! I only have 1 36 gallon and a 20 and change water every 2 weeks. I must have been using it 1 1/2 months tops! Something isnt adding up. Its a 4 stage 75 gallon a day rodi!

I only have corals reacting in my 20! I have some zoas and duncan not opening and a hammer that I just threw away because It didint look like it had much hope. It was a tiny frag and I have another one just like it anyway so no big deal!

Is there any additive like seachem prime that might help? I think it removes chlorine ect!

I already know I shouldn't have bought so many at once but got a good deal so couldnt help myself! But wont be a good deal if I lose them!

Does anyone have any suggestions? It really sucks I discovered it late tonight and cant get new water until tomorrow! Not to mention my order isnt here yet with the refills! I like to have wc and frags in as soon as they arrive!

I also set up a frag tank and I am sure its just about cycled but now with high tds water! How can I fix that? I hate to start over because I already robbed to many bioballs ect from my established tanks so dont want to keep taking and throw of the balance in the other tanks!


I truly appreciate anyone's help I am truly desperate!

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I just came back from a 3 day trip and discovered I left rodi on a slow trickle! But even worse I discovered that a 5 gallon jug I just filled before I left had high tds so I checked all my tanks and they are high! Its a brand new BRS 4 stage unit and I only had it up and running for about a month! The color indicator didn't change but a little more then halfway(actually just ordered refills)until I got home and just discovered it tonight when I went to make the water!

To make things real bad is I have a massive order of high end zoas and 2 holy grail acan colonys coming in tomorrow.

What should I do? Can I safely changed more then 50 percent? I always checked with my meter but never filled a cup up I just ran the water over the probes! I now know that was a big mistake! I must have left it on before but crazy thing is it was only a little more then half orange and I read after its 3/4 you should change the last filter! Its hard to believe how fast they are used up! I only have 1 36 gallon and a 20 and change water every 2 weeks. I must have been using it 1 1/2 months tops! Something isnt adding up. Its a 4 stage 75 gallon a day rodi!

I only have corals reacting in my 20! I have some zoas and duncan not opening and a hammer that I just threw away because It didint look like it had much hope. It was a tiny frag and I have another one just like it anyway so no big deal!

Is there any additive like seachem prime that might help? I think it removes chlorine ect!

I already know I shouldn't have bought so many at once but got a good deal so couldnt help myself! But wont be a good deal if I lose them!

Does anyone have any suggestions? It really sucks I discovered it late tonight and cant get new water until tomorrow! Not to mention my order isnt here yet with the refills! I like to have wc and frags in as soon as they arrive!

I also set up a frag tank and I am sure its just about cycled but now with high tds water! How can I fix that? I hate to start over because I already robbed to many bioballs ect from my established tanks so dont want to keep taking and throw of the balance in the other tanks!


I truly appreciate anyone's help I am truly desperate!

You do realize that your other post of the same question has been answered

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Here is a link lol

I just discovered I have high tds water in tank and have huge frag order coming tomorrow Help

Is there anything I can do for a quick fix, like seachem prime that removes chlorine I believe. I came home from a 3 day trip and discoverd it was on at a slow trickle but even worse is I checked one 5 gallon jug that I thought had 0 tds and it was high so it happed b4 the trip! I have been...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Screwgunner]

If you have city water change out your carbon filter it will help keep your other filters good longer. I use coconut premium carbon filters and my di filter lasts alot longer.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Chlorine will not get through an RO/DI just because the DI depletes. it is taken out in the carbon filter.

Unless the tank has elevated ammonia, I'd just proceed as usual.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

If you have city water change out your carbon filter it will help keep your other filters good longer. I use coconut premium carbon filters and my di filter lasts alot longer.

I cannot see why a new carbon filter will do much more than protect the RO membrane from degradation. That's really all it is there for. I don't see it having an effect on the DI lifetime.

 

[Screwgunner]

Chlorine goes through the membrane and severely damages it but the di takes it out but it degrades very fast when doing it . Carbon takes out Chlorine. But it is only good for 400 gallons of good water if you are lucky. Keep a good carbon filter on after your partical filter you will see the differance. Trust me!

 

[Screwgunner]

I ran mine for 400 gallons and after that it took less and less time for my 5 gallon to fill up that is the chlorine killing your ro membrane . Then the di changes collor faster and faster . The di is your final filter it should not get any thing above 3 to 9 tds . Check your tds after the membrane if it is above say 5 to9 then your carbon is depleted. I put a premium carbon filter on it and my di takes alot longer to turn colors now. In fact I am running two carbon filters and it still takes 2 hours for 5 gallons and di has not changed color at all yet.

 

[Screwgunner]

P.s. charcoal does not I repeat does not last for ever. It can only remove so much .when it is done and can not filter any more what do you think happens next . A little fairy comes down and protects your membrane, think again!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I stand by what I said. While of course what you wrote is possible, it just is not very common to have chlorine damage the membrane in a properly maintained RO/DI so excessive salts are getting through it and depleting the DI. Thus I think it is a exaggeration to claim that changing the carbon filters will make other filters last longer.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

P.s. charcoal does not I repeat does not last for ever. It can only remove so much .when it is done and can not filter any more what do you think happens next . A little fairy comes down and protects your membrane, think again!

No need to be condescending. I am perfectly aware of exactly how ro/di filters work:

Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Systems to Purify Tap Water for Reef Aquaria by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

 

[IslandLifeReef]

P.s. charcoal does not I repeat does not last for ever. It can only remove so much .when it is done and can not filter any more what do you think happens next . A little fairy comes down and protects your membrane, think again!

You do realize you are trying to teach chemistry to a person with a PHD in chemistry? Maybe you should check the attitude.

 

[KStatefan]

Chlorine goes through the membrane and severely damages it but the di takes it out but it degrades very fast when doing it . Carbon takes out Chlorine. But it is only good for 400 gallons of good water if you are lucky. Keep a good carbon filter on after your partical filter you will see the differance. Trust me!

I would look at switching brands of carbon filter if it is only good for 400 gallons. You can get a $11.50 one from @Buckeye Hydro that is rated at 20,000 gallons.

 

[Screwgunner]

You are right a properly maintained unit will work properly. But what happens when it's not ?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

You are right a properly maintained unit will work properly. But what happens when it's not ?

Then it might fail for many reasons.

Simple depleted di is, of course, the common explanation for elevated tds in the effluent, even when everything else is working perfectly. That happens to almost everyone, myself included. I never had a membrane fail in 20 years (I had one membrane for 10 years, then replaced the whole system with a bigger one for the next 10 years) but I had a number of batches of water with elevated tds. One stank of ammonia when I made limewater (kalkwasser) from it before realizing what happened. All the accumulated ammonia in the di from chloramine breakdown popped off the di when it depleted.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

The Filmtec membranes most of us use have a chlorine tolerance of 1000 ppm*hrs. So for instance 1 ppm chlorine water for 1000 hours. I say this just so people don't think that if the slightest bit of chlorine gets through the membrane will be ruined.

Russ

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I’m curious if OP will ever respond to this their own thread

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I’m curious if OP will ever respond to this their own thread

Well, as you so graciously pointed out to them, their question was answered on a different thread...

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Well, as you so graciously pointed out to them, their question was answered on a different thread...

I’m Referring to either thread that they literally just stopped responding to but everyone else keeps posting to

 

[((FORDTECH))]

You guys are going on a tangrum about membranes and op still hasn’t answered about the TDS being properly tested in the second thread and they may not even be a problem