Hobby grade “quarantine” probably kills more fish than it saves.

[i cant think]

If you don't know what you're doing I can see that.

I do know what I’m doing but it’s the risk I am WILLING to take. Maybe you aren’t but I am, I’m not telling you to stop QTing your fish but I won’t do it. It just adds onto stress. Like that fish was shipped halfway across the world to get to your LFS and then transported home to be thrown into a tank that’s most likely too small for them then they end up getting more stressed from the QT process

 

[Tamberav]

I do know what I’m doing but it’s the risk I am WILLING to take. Maybe you aren’t but I am, I’m not telling you to stop QTing your fish but I won’t do it. It just adds onto stress. Like that fish was shipped halfway across the world to get to your LFS and then transported home to be thrown into a tank that’s most likely too small for them then they end up getting more stressed from the QT process

No one told you what to do with your tank. It is those that don't QT that seem to have strong convictions.

The small tank theory.

There is no innate requirement that a QT has to be small, contain pvc, or medications.

 

[i cant think]

I mean think about it... you just said you buy fish from a LFS that QT's then stated that more fish die in QT than anything. So basically you are saying you buy from a store that is not only killing large amounts of fish but also failed to QT properly as you also got ich from them.

And now the coral tank has fish in it which means any coral put in there with a cyst would never go fallow. So the coral could never be said to be free of fish parasites.

Clearly this place seem questionable at best.

1. It probably wasn’t even Ich, as I stated before the tang beat it before I could FW dip it.
2. They’re the only LFS within 30 minutes of me
3. They are more trustworthy and the reason why is I have never had a disease in my tank until now and you will almost always have fish die in QT at an LFS they just rarely show it

 

[i cant think]

But as I said. You guys can continue QTing, I will not QT fish because I will not have a fish die on me just because I took one extra step to not having it establish in the DT.

 

[Tamberav]

But as I said. You guys can continue QTing, I will not QT fish because I will not have a fish die on me just because I took one extra step to not having it establish in the DT.

No one told you what to do. I get the feeling you want to tell me what to do lol

Most of my fish Live Aquaria likes to call expert only yet these somehow fragile fish handle QT like champs then go on to spawn in my DT.

Most of my fish losses in QT or DT were always some sort of major equipment failure or jumping.

There is an entire write up on R2R about Acanthurus tangs and ich managment and the severe difficulty of keeping a Acanthurus tang gang in a ich tank. It sounds like this describes Squids tank.

It talks about the massive deaths of these SPECIFIC tangs from NOT QTing them.

Ich and Acanthurus tangs - Years of experience and ich management

Alright folks I wanted to share some pretty shameful realities about my past and dealing with Acanthurus tangs. To anyone that doesn't know, common Acanthurus tangs include Powder Blue, Powder Brown, Goldrim/white cheek, Achilles, Sohal, Clown...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[i cant think]

No one told you what to do. I get the feeling you want to tell me what to do lol

Most of my fish Live Aquaria likes to call expert only yet these somehow fragile fish handle QT like champs then go on to spawn in my DT.

Most of my fish losses in QT or DT were always some sort of major equipment failure or jumping.

I’m not telling you what to do. Also, Expert level doesn’t mean by difficulty, it often means they’re bad shippers (My Radiant wrasse is an ‘expert’ level fish however it’s only expert because of them being bad shippers)

I’m just trying to not think it was my LFS’ fault for putting a disease in my DT (Mainly because I’m meant to be picking up another two wrasse from there, one is classed as expert as well)

Most Acanthurus tangs are different to other fish, although the ones I would never QT are Achilles and Gold rims from how 1. expensive (I wouldn’t want a £699 fish dying in QT) and 2. hard to get (Only 2 we’re being sold in the uk in March this year)

 

[Tamberav]

I’m not telling you what to do. Also, Expert level doesn’t mean by difficulty, it often means they’re bad shippers (My Radiant wrasse is an ‘expert’ level fish however it’s only expert because of them being bad shippers)

I’m just trying to not think it was my LFS’ fault for putting a disease in my DT (Mainly because I’m meant to be picking up another two wrasse from there, one is classed as expert as well)

Also remember we are in the USA and not the UK and the fish supply appears to be a lot different here.

If they are not fragile then they can handle a proper QT like champs

I don't use the QT LFS here because they are expensive but the fish look very healthy. I use the LFS that has fish that come in and you just buy them (sometimes still in the shipping bag) and QT and hope for the best cuz they are 1/4 the price and I don't fear QT.

 

[Tamberav]

Most Acanthurus tangs are different to other fish, although the ones I would never QT are Achilles and Gold rims from how 1. expensive (I wouldn’t want a £699 fish dying in QT) and 2. hard to get (Only 2 we’re being sold in the uk in March this year)

Yes but I believe Squid tank's consist of several of those types of tangs that he QT himself. Hence his strong feeling about QT his fish and knowing he doesn't have ich because it would probably show up due to the type of fish he has.

If he was losing lots of expensive fish in QT. He probably wouldn't be doing it lol

 

[i cant think]

Also remember we are in the USA and not the UK and the fish supply appears to be a lot different here.

If they are not fragile then they can handle a proper QT like champs

I don't use the QT LFS here because they are expensive but the fish look very healthy. I use the LFS that has fish that come in and you just buy them (sometimes still in the shipping bag) and QT and hope for the best cuz they are 1/4 the price and I don't fear QT.

That’s true, however you never specified you were in the US. I am simply basing it on the fish for sale here, yes you guys get a lot more ‘exotic’ fish in depending on where you are so you may QT just in case and I understand that but I run two tanks and don’t have a spare to make into a QT so I have to rely on the store to sell me a nice fish (I often inspect the ‘suspect’ before buying it)

 

[i cant think]

Yes but I believe Squid tank's consist of several of those types of tangs that he QT himself. Hence his strong feeling about QT his fish and knowing he doesn't have ich because it would probably show up due to the type of fish he has.

That’s true however he still can’t know 100% for sure. I honestly believe there is no true way to get away from Ich except to live with the fact you will maybe have some dormant in the sandbed

 

[Tamberav]

That’s true however he still can’t know 100% for sure. I honestly believe there is no true way to get away from Ich except to live with the fact you will maybe have some dormant in the sandbed

That is just a personal belief though that you can't be 100% sure is true.

See how it goes both ways? You don't know.

The 45 days and 76 days and blah blah days was based off studies so probably more valid then just a belief. Like how testing your tank for ich using e-DNA is probably more valid then saying "I don't have it because I don't see it".

 

[i cant think]

If he was losing lots of expensive fish in QT. He probably wouldn't be doing it lol

This is true lol. I honestly want to have some more ‘expensive’ fish (my most expensive is a £120 male Genicanthus melanospilos) but I would dream of the more risky wrasse (Although yes I want to try a Black-Backed/China wrasse, I also want to try a red tail tamarin) But it’s the disease issue that’s stopping me each time

 

[Tamberav]

This is true lol. I honestly want to have some more ‘expensive’ fish (my most expensive is a £120 male Genicanthus melanospilos) but I would dream of the more risky wrasse (Although yes I want to try a Black-Backed/China wrasse, I also want to try a red tail tamarin) But it’s the disease issue that’s stopping me each time

Wrasses are disease resistant so you shouldn't have any issues. They are very easy to keep in a ich tank.

 

[i cant think]

That is just a personal belief though that you can't be 100% sure is true.

See how it goes both ways? You don't know.

The 45 days and 76 days and blah blah days was based off studies so probably more valid then just a belief. Like how testing your tank for ich using e-DNA is probably more valid then saying "I don't have it because I don't see it".

Yeah, I know I have it since I’ve seen it recently it’s just a case of living with it and having to try and keep my fish as calm as possible. But he may not have it if it’s been 2 years (Then again- I said that and it was 1.6 years in and Ich showed up) and there’s still no showings but there’s Atleast 1% of a chance that Ich is in that tank and just dormant

 

[i cant think]

Wrasses are disease resistant so you shouldn't have any issues. They are very easy to keep in a ich tank.

Yeah, LA says the China’s are expert but that’s from shipping, I know they have thick slime coats it’s just trying to get them settled into the DT, it’s ‘pointless’ trying to QT fish since Ich is already in that tank. I know what to look for if it’s velvet or flukes so that’s not worrying for me.

 

[Tamberav]

Yeah, LA says the China’s are expert but that’s from shipping, I know they have thick slime coats it’s just trying to get them settled into the DT, it’s ‘pointless’ trying to QT fish since Ich is already in that tank. I know what to look for if it’s velvet or flukes so that’s not worrying for me.

I believe it is more than just shipping. I have one but they can be difficult to feed. Some people have them take nothing and starve.

My china wrasse is way more of a spaz/pacer of glass then the leopards or halichoeres wrasses. More anxious fish over-all.

If it is eating and not damaged then it is worth buying.

 

[i cant think]

I believe it is more than just shipping. I have one but they can be difficult to feed. Some people have them take nothing and starve.

My china wrasse is way more of a spaz/pacer of glass then the leopards or halichoeres wrasses. More anxious fish over-all.

Okay, Thankyou for giving me the information, I may be picking up a 2-2.5” one this Saturday from my LFS if it hasn’t either died from QT (fingers crossed since they’re doing copper and it’s a more sensitive wrasse I think), already been taken, or changed to male (Hopefully it’s changing though, just not completely changed since I know full males are very hard to transport)

 

[MnFish1]

Coral dip doesn't kill ich. That is why he QT's his corals for 30 days.

30 day QT probably gets most. If one gets through then he will wish he did 45 days at 82 degrees

Keeping a Ctenochaetus or Zebrasoma is different then keeping a Acanthurus.

I do not think its a good plan to raise the temp of a coral (short-term) from whats likely a 76-78 degree tank to 82. That (sorry to use the word) IMHO would be stupid. Unless the goal is to kill coral

 

[MnFish1]

This is true lol. I honestly want to have some more ‘expensive’ fish (my most expensive is a £120 male Genicanthus melanospilos) but I would dream of the more risky wrasse (Although yes I want to try a Black-Backed/China wrasse, I also want to try a red tail tamarin) But it’s the disease issue that’s stopping me each time

Maybe it would be an idea for you to check out the risks of wrasses for CI - as compared to other fish. Most of the people here are from the US - so maybe consider that many of the opinions may differ from yours because of the perceived difference in the supply chain (which I personally believe is a myth).

 

[Tamberav]

I do not think its a good plan to raise the temp of a coral (short-term) from whats likely a 76-78 degree tank to 82. That (sorry to use the word) IMHO would be stupid. Unless the goal is to kill coral

My coral QT is 82 and the acros, softies, LPS do fine. Probably do better in there than the DT

Didn’t people used to run tanks in the 80s to increase growth?

Why would 82 kill them? This is in the range of being able to keep a healthy reef.

Corals in the wild can be exposed to many temperature fluctuations.

Modest daily temperature variation of 2-4 °F, and perhaps as much as 6 °F, seems to have little if any discernable negative impact on corals (or likely on other reef organisms), as long as the temperature doesn’t go too far outside a tolerable range. Hence, going to the extra effort and extra expense that is usually required to keep the temperature extremely stable in a reef tank is probably unnecessary in most cases, and likely provides little reward for the effort and expense. For example, the corals and other animals in a reef tank that swings daily from 78 °F to 82 °F and back again are likely to be just as healthy and grow at a rate indistinguishable from those in a tank kept at a constant temperature within this range.

It’s actually kind of interesting because it goes on to stay some experiments were done and corals in a tank kept at a very constant temperature were more likely to be vulnerable and die to an equipment failure when temp swing happens then those corals that are in tanks that swing daily or seasonally. That actually purposely bringing the tank temp up now and again can actually lead to hardier corals.

The Great Temperature Debate, Part IV

By Chris Jury Introduction Throughout this series I’ve begun by discussing the predominant temperature conditions in the tropics and subtropics, where m

reefs.com

I am pretty sure Paul said something about his tank flooding today and he put a bunch lower temp (didn’t bother to heat it up) lower salinity water (cuz it rained) in it from the ocean without a care.

Corals don’t seem to die that easy. Well maybe pampered ones according to the article.

If I am stupid for QT my corals at 82, my corals have yet to tell me. Actually the last ones grew bryopsis and Aiptasia off what was a clean looking plug while in that 45 day spa. Pretty helpful but now I have to go nuclear on the QT tank and clean those buggers out one of these days.