How big a QT tank - Ich issue

clhardy5

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So....My tank was doing great - I had QT all fish, and they were doing well - fat and happy - going on 8 months - no sign of disease - and fish were happy. Recently added some coral - and snails - and although I dipped the coral - I didn't QT the coral or snails. And now, my fish have ich :-(. I know I need to pull them, Qt with copper, and leave the DT fallow - but my question is....how big a QT should I set up - ie...how many gallons?

I'm short on space -but will do my best to accomadate. I have 4 tangs (yellow, scopas, hippo, and sailfin - all around 3 inches)....a melanarus wrasse, two clowns, a royal gamma, two blue/yellow damsels, mandarin dragonet and a diamond goby. Should I set up two tanks? One for the copper sensitive fish - one with the other? I'm at a loss - and really discouraged. Can I leave the cleaner shrimp and fire shrimp in the dt during the fallow period? What about the assorted hermits and urchin?

Please no hate - I was doing what I could with my resources - and now just want to save my fish.
 

blaxsun

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You're assuming that ich came in on the corals or snails. It could've come in on the bag, your hands, tools, etc. It also could've been in the tank all along... lurking and biding its time. The only preventative treatment is to invest in a UV to keep the parasites at bay.
 
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clhardy5

clhardy5

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You're assuming that ich came in on the corals or snails. It could've come in on the bag, your hands, tools, etc. It also could've been in the tank all along... lurking and biding its time. The only preventative treatment is to invest in a UV to keep the parasites at bay.
I have a 36 watt UV on the tank currently. (125 gallons total water) I ordered a new bulb yesterday although the current one is less than a year old - and yet....the Ich is progressing....I have the sicce pump running as slow as I can. Not sure what else do do.

What would cause the ich to surface after 8 months? That is why I'm assuming it came in with the snails or coral....or bag that the snails/coral came in. I just haven't added any new fish is a LONG time.
 

blaxsun

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I have a 36 watt UV on the tank currently. (125 gallons total water) I ordered a new bulb yesterday although the current one is less than a year old - and yet....the Ich is progressing....I have the sicce pump running as slow as I can. Not sure what else do do.

What would cause the ich to surface after 8 months? That is why I'm assuming it came in with the snails or coral....or bag that the snails/coral came in. I just haven't added any new fish is a LONG time.
It's possible the UV bulb was expired or not working 100%. Is your flow rate through the UV rated for algae or parasites? Stressed fish can be more susceptible to disease, so it's possible ich took advantage of it (or it did come in with the snails or coral, but it's less likely with the corals).
 
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clhardy5

clhardy5

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It's possible the UV bulb was expired or not working 100%. Is your flow rate through the UV rated for algae or parasites? Stressed fish can be more susceptible to disease, so it's possible ich took advantage of it (or it did come in with the snails or coral, but it's less likely with the corals).
I believe I have the UV flow set for parasites....around 175-200 gph for my 36 watt uv/125gallon system. I thought the bulb was supposed to last 12 months - It is approximately 9 months old right now......But like I said, to be safe, I ordered another bulb yesterday. It is scheduled to be delivered between Dec 1-6....Just not sure what do do right now :-(
 

blaxsun

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I used Polyp Lab Medic for a velvet outbreak, and it worked for me (others have had mixed results). If you gave access to a QT that’s probably your best bet.
 
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clhardy5

clhardy5

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I used Polyp Lab Medic for a velvet outbreak, and it worked for me (others have had mixed results). If you gave access to a QT that’s probably your best bet.
Thanks. I have a 20 gallon fully cycled QT...I just don't think it will fit all my fish. I was wondering, what size would fit all my fish (see post above) - or if I should split in two different QT's as I have a couple of copper sensitive fish. I have Polyplab medic - and am using it while I get some more info about how to further proceed. I"m also soaking food in Selcon and have focus/metroplex coming in tomorrow. So far....fish are happy - swimming normally, and eating like pigs.....But...the white spot is there - and I'm worried.
 

blaxsun

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Two tanks if you can swing it is probably best for the copper sensitive fish. Which fish are showing signs of illness? Don’t forget to turn the UV off for 1 hour after Medic.

Eating is an encouraging sign, along with swimming normally. Maybe post some images of the fish so the disease experts can weigh-in?
 

Tamberav

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Leave inverts in DT to go fallow. Turn tank up to 81-82 during the fallow to speed the cycle up.

Mandarins don’t handle copper well.

I’d probably want at least 40 gallons for those fish.

Unfortunately UV is not a cure all. Mixed results like most any in tank treatment.
 
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clhardy5

clhardy5

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Two tanks if you can swing it is probably best for the copper sensitive fish. Which fish are showing signs of illness? Don’t forget to turn the UV off for 1 hour after Medic.

Eating is an encouraging sign, along with swimming normally. Maybe post some images of the fish so the disease experts can weigh-in?
Two of the tangs have spots. The Powder brown has just a couple, and Blue hippo has the most - but isn't totally covered. I'll try and get pictures tomorrow after the lights come on. Just not sure where I'm going to put two QT tanks - I already have one 20 QT observation tank with 3 zebra dart fish that were waiting to go into the DT. They've only been there for about two weeks. Of course....I believe they are sensitive to copper as well - thus the long term observation. So....just thinking out loud here....Maybe the 20 gallon could be for my sensitive fish....and perhaps get a 40 gallon for my bigger fish.

I guess I'll try to make a plan tomorrow, and see if I can source another tank - and think about where to put it :-(.
 

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