How do you guys feel about these butcher blocks as an aquarium stand top?

[Frogspon]

They are made with the side grain facing up. 1.5inch thick solid birch construction. It's very heavy duty in person.

I think it would look really nice with a stain on it.

Would it be fine as the top of a stand for a 75 Gallon tank?

 

[PSU4ME]

As long as it flat and you can seal it I think it would be ok, you don’t want it swelling if it gets wet

 

[X-37B]

I wish i would have used it instead of 3/4" plywood.
I would make it 2-3" oversize all the way around and round off the top edges.
I think having the edge would look good.
Either was just stain and seal it to match your stand.

 

[Frogspon]

As long as it flat and you can seal it I think it would be ok, you don’t want it swelling if it gets wet

Could/would it swell anymore than plywood or 2x4s? It's all wood.. I feel like plywood would be the most susceptible to warpage from water.

 

[Frogspon]

I wish i would have used it instead of 3/4" plywood.

Just for aesthetics, or do you have structural worries about the plywood?

 

[X-37B]

Just for aesthetics, or do you have structural worries about the plywood?

Purely the look my friend.

 

[X-37B]

Could/would it swell anymore than plywood or 2x4s? It's all wood.. I feel like plywood would be the most susceptible to warpage from water.

Any wood will work if properly sealed. I would not use particle board though.

 

[Rubberfrog]

I build tables. If you fail to seal that with polyurethane, it is only a matter of time until it absorbs moisture. Seal all six edges to keep it from absorbing moisture and warping. Unless it only needs to last for a year or two, then don't worry about it.

 

[Frogspon]

I build tables. If you fail to seal that with polyurethane, it is only a matter of time until it absorbs moisture. Seal all six edges to keep it from absorbing moisture and warping. Unless it only needs to last for a year or two, then don't worry about it.

What would you recommend instead?

 

[Rubberfrog]

That material is fine, just coat it with poly

What would you recommend instead?

 

[DaddyFish]

That material is fine, just coat it with poly

Multiple thin coats of poly, not just one heavy coat. You definitely want the poly soaking in and gradually filling any open grain. It will be beautiful when you're done.

 

[CMMorgan]

I am a kitchen designer and butcher block tops are back in style. the most important thing and the most overlooked is that you need to treat them on all sides... top bottom and all around. Whether you are using multiple coats of Tung Oil or poly, do not skip this step.
Also once you get it home, lay it flat and do not unwrap it until you plan to seal it.

 

[PghReef]

Dimensional lumbar behaves very differently than plywood. On plywood every layer is layed perpendicular to each other so it has much higher structural stability. Regular lumbar can cup, twist, bow, and move depending on the part of the tree and the moisture levels. That's why cabinets and doors use plywood construction and center panels. Make a door out of solid lumbar and it can very easily warp.

It will work fine and be very strong, no need to worry about weight. With the weight of the tank on top I'd think the wood would stay pretty flat. I would 100% seal all 6 sides EQUALLY. Many people cut corners and only finish the visible portion or wood or apply only 1 or 2 poorly applied coats yo the unseen sides. This leads to uneven drying of the slab and warpage.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Please please don't do that . . Pro woodworker and furniture maker here.

Butcher block is made up of strips of wood, glued into a panel. They are crosscut at the appropriate length and flipped on end to show the end grain. End grain is the most absorbing side of the wood. Wood grains are literally little empty straws that go from one end to the next. The problem isn't the sealing part. Issue number one is the resealing part. Butcher block will not stay sealed under poly. Period. It may for a bit but will need resealed OFTEN. If you have a tank on it and the other side's under your stand you won't have the ability to seal most of the wood where it needs it.

Number two issue in in my opinion this is the largest issue is that end grain is weak as crap. I have snapped 2 in thick end grain butchers blocks . It doesn't take much. There is no stability in the way the wood moves, is just not the right way to do it.

Now if you want the end grain look, and have a friend with a band saw, ask if they can resaw the butcher block into sub 1/4" slices that will be super flimsy but can be laminated into a double stack of glued and screwed quality ply wood. This would essentially give you a strong stable core and the look you are wanting without the negative side effects.

Happy to answer any questions.

 

[mdb_talon]

Please please don't do that . . Pro woodworker and furniture maker here.

Butcher block is made up of strips of wood, glued into a panel. They are crosscut at the appropriate length and flipped on end to show the end grain. End grain is the most absorbing side of the wood. Wood grains are literally little empty straws that go from one end to the next. The problem isn't the sealing part. Issue number one is the resealing part. Butcher block will not stay sealed under poly. Period. It may for a bit but will need resealed OFTEN. If you have a tank on it and the other side's under your stand you won't have the ability to seal most of the wood where it needs it.

Number two issue in in my opinion this is the largest issue is that end grain is weak as crap. I have snapped 2 in thick end grain butchers blocks . It doesn't take much. There is no stability in the way the wood moves, is just not the right way to do it.

Now if you want the end grain look, and have a friend with a band saw, ask if they can resaw the butcher block into sub 1/4" slices that will be super flimsy but can be laminated into a double stack of glued and screwed quality ply wood. This would essentially give you a strong stable core and the look you are wanting without the negative side effects.

Happy to answer any questions.

Thats not endgrain

 

[CMMorgan]

What Home Depot (i.e. Hardwood Reflections) sells is Edge Grain, not End Grain. End Grain is VERY expensive and yes... a million little straws. Personally, I do not use poly for my clients. I always recommend that they use oil and wax. The oil penetrates the wood.
I am not going to disagree with the previous poster about the wood needing to be maintained. That said, depending on tank size... I am a firm believer that there should always be an uncoupling membrane between the wood top and the tank. No matter what your material... plywood, butcher block, etc. there will be some level of expansion and contraction due to relative humidity and dew point.
Whatever you use, install a pad, foam, etc.... even a thick yoga mat under the tank to allow for the uncoupling of the two pieces. Anyone who is into tile installation will recognize Schluter Systems Ditra as pioneering this technology for floors.

 

[Frogspon]

Seems like some mixed feelings on here.

Maybe I should just go with 3/4 sand pine ply and dress up the edge with Select Pine trim.

My aversion to plywood is how they are normally torqued to a degree across the face of the plane, straight from the store lol. This butcher block was flat as can be from all angles.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Seems like some mixed feelings on here.

Maybe I should just go with 3/4 sand pine ply and dress up the edge with Select Pine trim.

My aversion to plywood is how they are normally torqued to a degree across the face of the plane, straight from the store lol. This butcher block was flat as can be from all angles.

Don't buy home Depot/ menards ply. Search out baltic birch. It's a bit more expensive but worth it. I use it exclusively when veneering. It's called apple ply in some parts of the country. There are little to no voids, has an A/B side and the b side is better than any borg plywood.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

What Home Depot (i.e. Hardwood Reflections) sells is Edge Grain, not End Grain. End Grain is VERY expensive and yes... a million little straws. Personally, I do not use poly for my clients. I always recommend that they use oil and wax. The oil penetrates the wood.
I am not going to disagree with the previous poster about the wood needing to be maintained. That said, depending on tank size... I am a firm believer that there should always be an uncoupling membrane between the wood top and the tank. No matter what your material... plywood, butcher block, etc. there will be some level of expansion and contraction due to relative humidity and dew point.
Whatever you use, install a pad, foam, etc.... even a thick yoga mat under the tank to allow for the uncoupling of the two pieces. Anyone who is into tile installation will recognize Schluter Systems Ditra as pioneering this technology for floors.

Looks like I may have gotten my wires crossed. I have never heard of someone calling an Edge or Facegrain slab a butcher block. Butcher block in my world is always end grain, which would not be at all suitable for this imo.

I made and installed butcher block inlays at my favorite sushi spot to replace the HDPE inlays they had. Each is 1.75" thick. 3 years of constant use, I haven't had to reflatten once. They love them and take good care of them. (also take care of me when I'm in there of course)

 

[Poof No Eyebrows]

If your using it for a top I would be carefull. The humidity will cause weird seepage to come out of the wood. Think resin/sap/glue. Even non laminated or joined wood seeps in a moist environment.