How do you maintain a cycled tank without adding ammonia?

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Nemoreef

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Add coral and inverts.

???
Right, I think inverts is the way to go. But I am going to wait 6 months or so for corals. Only coral I might add before that is pulsing Xenia. I have a small island dedicated for it. But it might be too early even for that.
 

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Right, I think inverts is the way to go. But I am going to wait 6 months or so for corals. Only coral I might add before that is pulsing Xenia. I have a small island dedicated for it. But it might be too early even for that.

Wait 6 months for what exactly? What do you mean by too early? Too early for what? You plan on growing algae for 6 months?
 
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Place them in their own tank(like a QT tank) that has no fish(fallow) in it so they cannot carry any fish diseases with them.
Oh!! So that needs QT too. I guess that won't work to maintain the cycle in the display tank then. But good to know. Back to ghost feeding I guess. Would you suggest starting the refugium with clean chaeto and ghost feeding?
 
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Wait 6 months for what exactly? What do you mean by too early? Too early for what? You plan on growing algae for 6 months?
I just moved from freshwater to saltwater and still figuring out everything. So my plan is to have a FOWLR for 6 months and then add corals slowly. When I said too early, I meant too early for me.
 

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If you want, you can add a few soft corals like zoa's to a new tank...you certainly don't have to wait 6 months for them...plus when the fish are ready to be added the zoa's will have already become established and begun growing well...they like higher nutrients as well so ghost feeding with them would be fine as long as you do your water changes so nutrients don't get too out of hand
 

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Well if your tank is cycled - you should add some stuff. Nothing is going to happen with an empty tank for 6 months but uncontrollable algae growth. Unless you also keep the lights off. But like why start a tank in the first place then?

You want to start developing some biodiversity, get some herbivores (inverts and fish) in there, some easy coral, etc. Get a chunk of rock or some sand from a friends tank to seed more bacteria and maybe corraline.

You’re going to do more harm than good going that slow - algae is going to get a foothold then you’re just going to battle algae in an empty tank and be miserable. There are so many easy, hardy corals - what are you worried about? Go down to your LFS and pick out some $5 frags and get them in there. And if it’s *you* you’re worried about, how do you expect to learn anything with an empty tank anyway??
 
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If you want, you can add a few soft corals like zoa's to a new tank...you certainly don't have to wait 6 months for them...plus when the fish are ready to be added the zoa's will have already become established and begun growing well...they like higher nutrients as well so ghost feeding with them would be fine as long as you do your water changes so nutrients don't get too out of hand
I like this idea too. I do have a zoa garden island location planned in the tank.
 

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Well if your tank is cycled - you should add some stuff. Nothing is going to happen with an empty tank for 6 months but uncontrollable algae growth. Unless you also keep the lights off. But like why start a tank in the first place then?

You want to start developing some biodiversity, get some herbivores (inverts and fish) in there, some easy coral, etc. Get a chunk of rock or some sand from a friends tank to seed more bacteria and maybe corraline.

You’re going to do more harm than good going that slow - algae is going to get a foothold then you’re just going to battle algae in an empty tank and be miserable. There are so many easy, hardy corals - what are you worried about? Go down to your LFS and pick out some $5 frags and get them in there. And if it’s *you* you’re worried about, how do you expect to learn anything with an empty tank anyway??
I agree with this...pick out some inexpensive soft corals to first start out and move up to LPS from there after you see them doing well. I don't blame you for wanting to let your tank mature before throwing too many hard corals in but it's a learning experience and waiting a full 6 months isn't really the greatest idea imo. Also sun corals should do fine if you don't mind spot feeding them regularly. Also i would personally try to be increasing bacterial biodiversity at this point as mentioned above by adding either some established rock or real ocean live rock if you can get some. It's truly a learning experience. I think you have the right idea by doing your research and being careful not to just throw random corals into a new tank but there's no reason to go a full 6 months empty. As for fallowing the CUC, i personally would just add them since the risk of introducing parasites on them is pretty minimal.
 
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Well if your tank is cycled - you should add some stuff. Nothing is going to happen with an empty tank for 6 months but uncontrollable algae growth. Unless you also keep the lights off. But like why start a tank in the first place then?

You want to start developing some biodiversity, get some herbivores (inverts and fish) in there, some easy coral, etc. Get a chunk of rock or some sand from a friends tank to seed more bacteria and maybe corraline.

You’re going to do more harm than good going that slow - algae is going to get a foothold then you’re just going to battle algae in an empty tank and be miserable. There are so many easy, hardy corals - what are you worried about? Go down to your LFS and pick out some $5 frags and get them in there. And if it’s *you* you’re worried about, how do you expect to learn anything with an empty tank anyway??
Six month wait is only to get into corals. I am getting fishes this weekend but it is going into quarantine tank for 44 days or so. I started the quarantine tank cycle and display tank cycling at the same time but since QT is bare bottom, my main display cycled weeks before QT. This was not the plan. So now I have to maintain an empty tank for 44 days. That is the reason for this thread.

Once I get a good hold of the fishes and CUC in the display tank, I will start corals. But I got some new ideas from you guys to start with a hardy soft corals. Probably Zoas and ghost feed until the fishes are ready.
 

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Six month wait is only to get into corals. I am getting fishes this weekend but it is going into quarantine tank for 44 days or so. I started the quarantine tank cycle and display tank cycling at the same time but since QT is bear bottom, my main display cycled weeks before QT. This was not the plan. So now I have to maintain an empty tank for 44 days. That is the reason for this thread.

Once I get a good hold of the fishes and CUC in the display tank, I will start corals. But I got some new ideas from you guys to start with a hardy soft corals. Probably Zoas and ghost feed until the fishes are ready.
Just keep in mind that plenty of people have fishless systems with inverts and corals (including me atm) and the tank is doing well...granted my tank is well established so some of the corals i have wouldn't thrive in a new setup most likely but if i were you I'd definitely add a few soft corals at least...it only gets more exciting as you learn and see your tank slowly start maturing and supporting life! I'd introduce the CUC, add some zoa's/other softies, and ghost feed while watching your nutrients. Just getting in the habit of keeping an eye on nutrients will help you greatly as well as just getting your tank started. At this point if they're soft corals, phosphates and nitrates from the ghost feeding would be the primary tests to run since soft corals don't require Alk, calcium, mag to grow and would be a great way to get you more involved in the upkeep that'll be required later...not to mention having something beautiful to look at and enjoy!
 

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Also, I don't think you mentioned how many fish you plan to quarantine at once. You can not add them all at once to your DT. It takes a minute for your current bio-load to catch up with the new bio- load. Too many fish at once could be disastrous. Depending on the size of your tank, fish, etc. etc. Maybe only one or two fish every couple weeks. It is also important that you add them in a proper order from least aggressive/territorial to most.
 
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Also i would personally try to be increasing bacterial biodiversity at this point as mentioned above by adding either some established rock or real ocean live rock if you can get some.

This is the goal without the pests or parasites. So far I added microbacter XLM, clean and 7. Going to add Arc Reef purple helix coraline algae. Then some pods.
 

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This is the goal without the pests or parasites. So far I added microbacter XLM, clean and 7. Going to add Arc Reef purple helix coraline algae. Then some pods.
I'm not a big fan of adding supplements to a new tank but there is one product which is Aquaforest Life Source that may be able to naturally increase biodiversity in a new tank...it's mud harvested directly from Fiji near the reefs which is supposed to add biodiversity...I've used it and think it's a good product. It couldn't hurt and is worth a shot.
 
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Just keep in mind that plenty of people have fishless systems with inverts and corals (including me atm) and the tank is doing well...granted my tank is well established so some of the corals i have wouldn't thrive in a new setup most likely but if i were you I'd definitely add a few soft corals at least...it only gets more exciting as you learn and see your tank slowly start maturing and supporting life! I'd introduce the CUC, add some zoa's/other softies, and ghost feed while watching your nutrients. Just getting in the habit of keeping an eye on nutrients will help you greatly as well as just getting your tank started. At this point if they're soft corals, phosphates and nitrates from the ghost feeding would be the primary tests to run since soft corals don't require Alk, calcium, mag to grow and would be a great way to get you more involved in the upkeep that'll be required later...not to mention having something beautiful to look at and enjoy!
I do like this idea and this is probably what I will do. And maybe like @homer1475 mentioned, I might just fallow the CUC.
 
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Also, I don't think you mentioned how many fish you plan to quarantine at once. You can not add them all at once to your DT. It takes a minute for your current bio-load to catch up with the new bio- load. Too many fish at once could be disastrous. Depending on the size of your tank, fish, etc. etc. Maybe only one or two fish every couple weeks. It is also important that you add them in a proper order from least aggressive/territorial to most.
This is the full list. But not all will be added now.
Royal gramma 1
Ocellaris Clown 2
Blue tang 1[Juvenile, will rehome]
Mandarin 1
Bengai Cardinal 2(Also considering Pajama)
Yellow Coris Wrasse - 1
Sand sifting Goby 1 with pistol shrimp.

It's a 55g tank. Tang and Mandarin is probably a year from now. I had Lyretail anthias in there too but removed it as they might compete with Mandarin for pods.
 
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I'm not a big fan of adding supplements to a new tank but there is one product which is Aquaforest Life Source that may be able to naturally increase biodiversity in a new tank...it's mud harvested directly from Fiji near the reefs which is supposed to add biodiversity...I've used it and think it's a good product. It couldn't hurt and is worth a shot.
This is exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. Thank you so much. I will look into this.
 

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This is the full list. But not all will be added now.
Royal gramma 1
Ocellaris Clown 2
Blue tang 1[Juvenile, will rehome]
Mandarin 1
Bengai Cardinal 2(Also considering Pajama)
Yellow Coris Wrasse - 1
Sand sifting Goby 1 with pistol shrimp.

It's a 55g tank. Tang and Mandarin is probably a year from now. I had Lyretail anthias in there too but removed it as they might compete with Mandarin for pods.
Even if you exclude the tang and the mandarin, that's too much to add all at once, to your QT or DT.
I also want to mention that it seems like you have been doing some research and have it in your mind how or what is going to happen in your tank. Everybody’s experience is different. When you start adding in a human element there are so many variables to reef husbandry. The best thing you can do is understand the basics and just go for it. You don't learn by avoiding things like algae or pests. You learn by dealing with them. Even very experienced reefers learn new things everyday. If you try to make the perfect tank on your first go at it you will be severely disappointed. Wondering why you tried to do everything right and it went so wrong. Some people never recover from that and leave the hobby. This most likely will not be the first and last tank you will have. So have fun with it and just do it.
 
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Even if you exclude the tang and the mandarin, that's too much to add all at once, to your QT or DT.
I also want to mention that it seems like you have been doing some research and have it in your mind how or what is going to happen in your tank. Everybody’s experience is different. When you start adding in a human element there are so many variables to reef husbandry. The best thing you can do is understand the basics and just go for it. You don't learn by avoiding things like algae or pests. You learn by dealing with them. Even very experienced reefers learn new things everyday. If you try to make the perfect tank on your first go at it you will be severely disappointed. Wondering why you tried to do everything right and it went so wrong. Some people never recover from that and leave the hobby. This most likely will not be the first and last tank you will have. So have fun with it and just do it.
This is really good advice. Live and learn.

I have had a lots of experience with algae in freshwater planted tanks. But compared to this, I think FW is so much easier and I am trying to avoid possible mistakes.

Which ones in the list would you add first and how many? My QT is 10g tank and I will do water changes to keep ammonia down if it ever creeps up. Plan is to do 2 - 4 weeks copper power and 1 week prazipro after.
 

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why did you put a reef in that
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By keeping it wet, nothing else needed

cycles cannot starve, natural inputs keep them alive exactly as if we fed them

cycles can’t die or starve in water.
 

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