How long do you QT?

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Neptune 555

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I always QT my fish before they go into DT and perform TTM. My DT is ich free (as proven by a power outage where I lost one fish but no ich. Not even on my blue tang who was upside down when I found the problem,) BUT I have also lost many fish in QT : (.

Currently, in QT I have a foxface, 3 green chromis, one watchman goby. The fish are eating live worms, clams and frozen. NO spots, no flashing, no heavy breathing. I have read and agree with the problems re: home grade QT. My QT is a 20 gallon system reading .25 ammonia while my DT is a 180 reef reading 0 ammonia. I have a filter pad from my DT sump but still I can't keep the ammonia at 0!! @Humblefish the premise that ammonia is not a problem in a DT is proving very challenging for me? I am trying to follow your protocol of TTM AND @Paul B protocol of healthy fish by feeding live foods. The best of both worlds.

HOW LONG TO WATCH THEM IN QT?

QT.jpg BTA Explosion.jpg
 
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Jay Hemdal

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I always QT my fish before they go into DT and perform TTM. My DT is ich free (as proven by a power outage where I lost one fish but no ich. Not even on my blue tang who was upside down when I found the problem,) BUT I have also lost many fish in QT : (.

Currently, in QT I have a foxface, 3 green chromis, one watchman goby. The fish are eating live worms, clams and frozen. NO spots, no flashing, no heavy breathing. I have read and agree with the problems re: home grade QT. My QT is a 20 gallon system reading .25 ammonia while my DT is a 180 reef reading 0 ammonia. I have a filter pad from my DT sump but still I can't keep the ammonia at 0!! @Humblefish the premise that ammonia is not a problem in a DT is proving very challenging for me? I am trying to follow your protocol of TTM AND @Paul B protocol of healthy fish by feeding live foods. The best of both worlds.

HOW LONG TO WATCH THEM IN QT?

QT.jpg BTA Explosion.jpg

Depending on your pH, 0.25 ppm ammonia can be detrimental, especially for more than a few days. Just off the cuff, if the pH in your QT is less than 7.9, it won't be an issue, but over 8.1 and it can be. That said, I see the Ammonia badge. I've had issues with those, can you confirm the 0.25 ammonia with a good test kit (not API)?

You are taking more of a risk doing an observational quarantine, and then, with anemones in the tank, you won't be able to respond to a treatment effectively. If the fish were to break with ich, you'd need to move the anemones out, but they can't go to your DT for fear they would carry over the disease.

You may have seen this, but my current quarantine protocol is here:


Jay
 
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Neptune 555

Neptune 555

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Depending on your pH, 0.25 ppm ammonia can be detrimental, especially for more than a few days. Just off the cuff, if the pH in your QT is less than 7.9, it won't be an issue, but over 8.1 and it can be. That said, I see the Ammonia badge. I've had issues with those, can you confirm the 0.25 ammonia with a good test kit (not API)?

You are taking more of a risk doing an observational quarantine, and then, with anemones in the tank, you won't be able to respond to a treatment effectively. If the fish were to break with ich, you'd need to move the anemones out, but they can't go to your DT for fear they would carry over the disease.

You may have seen this, but my current quarantine protocol is here:


Jay

I did use a real ammonia test based on your feedback. This photo shows the results:
Vial #1: NEW salt water using instant ocean. As I read IO has free ammonia not toxic ammonia?
Vial #2: The QT tank - I will dose prime but heard this works for a few hours?
Vial #3: The DT - the only one that looks safe!

I am on day 5 did one tank transfer. I am thinking of putting them in the DT 2-nite after lights out. I think the ammonia is going to kill them. I just read the current protocol treatment I don't have a system set up for that long or the stomach for a 60 day QT.
 

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nereefpat

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Can you test with an ammonia kit that isn't API? Maybe your LFS would test for you. Many folks report 0.25 ppm with that kit even in a seasoned aquarium.

Usually, in TTM, there isn't enough time for ammonia to build to toxic levels, especially with your 'cycled' filter pad.

A 5 day QT wouldn't be enough for me, but everyone has their own feelings. I would do TTM for a minimum of 10 days, and also treat with Prazi before going into the display, but, again, everyone does QT differently.
 

Jay Hemdal

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I did use a real ammonia test based on your feedback. This photo shows the results:
Vial #1: NEW salt water using instant ocean. As I read IO has free ammonia not toxic ammonia?
Vial #2: The QT tank - I will dose prime but heard this works for a few hours?
Vial #3: The DT - the only one that looks safe!

I am on day 5 did one tank transfer. I am thinking of putting them in the DT 2-nite after lights out. I think the ammonia is going to kill them. I just read the current protocol treatment I don't have a system set up for that long or the stomach for a 60 day QT.
Ionized versus unionized ammonia is pH dependent, so at a high pH, the trace ammonia in IO (usually about 0.20 ppm) adds to any other ammonia n the tank and can be toxic.
I’ve really learned to hate the API ammonia kits….
Prime will permanently neutralize ammonia, but ammonia continues to build, so you need to repeat the dose.
Jay
 
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Neptune 555

Neptune 555

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Ionized versus unionized ammonia is pH dependent, so at a high pH, the trace ammonia in IO (usually about 0.20 ppm) adds to any other ammonia n the tank and can be toxic.
I’ve really learned to hate the API ammonia kits….
Prime will permanently neutralize ammonia, but ammonia continues to build, so you need to repeat the dose.
Jay
Jay,

No negative issues with dosing prime every day for 3 days? My fish look great and are eating... going to observe for a few more days if I can use prime. thanks
 

Jay Hemdal

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Jay,

No negative issues with dosing prime every day for 3 days? My fish look great and are eating... going to observe for a few more days if I can use prime. thanks
Yes, you can dose Prime like that with no issues.
Jay
 
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