How long to QT CUC Inverts in Fish-less?

[Miami Reef]

While I do use "rinse and go" as a depuration method, I only do that with invertebrates that came from a fishless system. Also remember, echinoderms have an open circulatory system, so any tomonts trapped inside can be carried through a simple rinse. Is that a huge risk? No, unless the starfish were coming from a tank with an active infection. But still, people will say, "sterilize your tank tools moving from tank to tank" due to water carryover, so the same risk applies to echinoderms.

This chart seems to deal mainly with tomonts of Amyloodinium and Cryptocaryon. Another big concern are Neobenedenia eggs. This is a common monogenean parasite and its eggs have sticky tendrils and attach to really anything that they can snag onto. Most of these eggs hatch within 12 days, but as with tomonts, it is those rare outliers (that take longer) that cause problems. I prefer to use at least 15 days for those, but 20 days is probably safer. In cases where adult Neo is present, the treatment needs to go for 35 days to break the life cycle (as with hypo treatments).

Jay

This is very good to know! Thank you very much.

 

[ariellemermaid]

Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames

Coral/Invert Quarantine Time Frames IMPORTANT UPDATE: Raising aquarium temperature to 27C/80.6F can shorten the coral/invert isolation period to 6 weeks: New Ich Fallow Period Preface: The purpose of this article is to outline time periods required to properly quarantine (QT) marine corals &...

humble.fish

That’s really interesting, thanks for bringing that to my attention. I didn’t realize Humblefish changed his recs from 76 days . However, what does everyone think about keeping corals esp. Acropora above 80.6 for 6 weeks? Realistically this means setting the temp to 81 where based on my Apex data it would range 81-83. Some threads seem to indicate people are running those temps safely…. I’ve always set at 78.

 

[Miami Reef]

That’s really interesting, thanks for bringing that to my attention. I didn’t realize Humblefish changed his recs from 76 days . However, what does everyone think about keeping corals esp. Acropora above 80.6 for 6 weeks? Realistically this means setting the temp to 81 where based on my Apex data it would range 81-83. Some threads seem to indicate people are running those temps safely…. I’ve always set at 78.

78F is the average in the ocean, but I’d bet it reaches up to 83F at times.

Humblefish said running your tank at 86F can shorten a fallow to 2 weeks! Nitrifying bacteria will survive that, but not corals nor inverts.

I personally kept my tank around 81F-82F sometimes reaching 83F (but rarely). I personally believe 83F is pushing it for me. I adjusted my temp to be on the lower end so max temp is 81F. I’d rather wait a little bit longer than risk corals bleaching.

I used to believe 80F would kill corals before my fallow. I even made a thread panicking because my chiller was reaching 80F. This fallow period proved that theory wrong (at least for me).

*chiller was fixed

 

[shoshowhy]

What do you feed cuc in the qt tank?

 

[Jay Hemdal]

What do you feed cuc in the qt tank?

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Feeding CUC when they are in isolation is a big issue. Hermit crabs and scavengers are easily feed on different fish foods. The algae eaters and detritivores are more of a challenge. Some will feed on nori or other dried algae that you can anchor to a rock. Another trick is to move algae covered rocks from your DT to the QT to feed them.

Jay

 

[ariellemermaid]

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

Feeding CUC when they are in isolation is a big issue. Hermit crabs and scavengers are easily feed on different fish foods. The algae eaters and detritivores are more of a challenge. Some will feed on nori or other dried algae that you can anchor to a rock. Another trick is to move algae covered rocks from your DT to the QT to feed them.

Jay

It’s not for everyone but we just set up a permanent 20g tank. Whether you’re looking at 6 weeks or 76 days, the fact is you’re always going to be buying more corals, more snails, more crabs, more shrimp, etc. When you factor in all the 6 week/76 day blocks, it’s more practical than constantly breaking it down and setting it back up. We call it our crab tank, and use frags of frags to plant some corals as well.

Doing it this way, there’s plenty of algae around for snails. When we move all the snails out the tank glass explodes with algae. So we always keep a batch of snails in there to keep it clean and have more snails ready for the DT. Downsides are obviously keeping the chemistry reef quality all the time, and cleaning the glass with all the frag racks is a bit of a challenge. But it’s an enjoyable tank in its own right.