How not to start a reef tank, my first reef tank build

[erk]

Side note, I may have phosphates too high now in the frag qt. That’s no big deal to me as I wanted at least an initial onset of film/hair algae. We are getting a bit of cyano though so I’m going to be adding the mini skimmer and start the process of slowly decreasing phosphate down a notch or two.

Corals look happy, so I wouldn't fret too much about PO4. Hopefully the chalices rebound. They probably will like the excess nutrients.

 

[living_tribunal]

Corals look happy, so I wouldn't fret too much about PO4. Hopefully the chalices rebound. They probably will like the excess nutrients.

I know they will. When I went through the ordeal of scrubbing my first batch of chalices with a coralline brush, they rebounded hard when I started feeding them. They are all colorful and happy now.

I only want to reduce phosphates a bit for my sake. I have to clean the frag tank twice a week because crap grows so fast in there.

 

[living_tribunal]

I’m not sure what, but something tells me trachys and fungia plates like being fed....

 

[living_tribunal]

So this coralife hob skimmer sucks.

Microbubbles everywhere. I’ve added in filter sock material everywhere that I can and can’t get rid of them.

 

[erk]

So this coralife hob skimmer sucks.

Microbubbles everywhere. I’ve added in filter sock material everywhere that I can and can’t get rid of them.

Yeah, that's typical of most HOB skimmers. The best HOB skimmer I ever had was the NS80. Only issue was the tiny collection cup, therefore external skimmate locker is needed. The mini air stone skimmers are great too when used with a wooden air stone. Only issue was the wooden air stone goes back relatively quickly.

 

[living_tribunal]

Yeah, that's typical of most HOB skimmers. The best HOB skimmer I ever had was the NS80. Only issue was the tiny collection cup, therefore external skimmate locker is needed. The mini air stone skimmers are great too when used with a wooden air stone. Only issue was the wooden air stone goes back relatively quickly.

I’ll check that out. They say that it will “work it’s way out” as it dials in on hour system but mechanically I don’t see how it would work to the degree that micro bubbles don’t occur.

I’m fine with letting it run for a few days but the corals are ticked. I also don’t understand how the micro bubbles are able to pass through the filter sock screen I added in there.

I hate making adjustments to this frag tank, it always ends up extreme. I’m ultimately just trying to have more control over my systems, the amount of testing I’m having to do right now is a little overwhelming.

Not to mention how inaccurate testing kits are, even nice ones.

 

[erk]

I’ll check that out. They say that it will “work it’s way out” as it dials in on hour system but mechanically I don’t see how it would work to the degree that micro bubbles don’t occur.

I’m fine with letting it run for a few days but the corals are ******. I also don’t understand how the micro bubbles are able to pass through the filter sock screen I added in there.

I hate making adjustments to this frag tank, it always ends up extreme. I’m ultimately just trying to have more control over my systems, the amount of testing I’m having to do right now is a little overwhelming.

Not to mention how inaccurate testing kits are, even nice ones.

Can you add a baffle inside to help force the bubbles up and out of the water?

 

[living_tribunal]

I sucked it up and ordered the hanna ulr phosphorous checker. It seems like the only way to get a legitimate range of your phosphate levels.

 

[living_tribunal]

Can you add a baffle inside to help force the bubbles up and out of the water?

That’s a good idea, I have silicone on hand. Let me try to think of something that would work for the baffle.

 

[living_tribunal]

Can you add a baffle inside to help force the bubbles up and out of the water?

I will be honest, I already triggered a return for it from amazon to get some $ for the hanna checker.

The frag tank has done well before without it so may wait a while in order to purchase a better skimmer

There is a 60g $60 hob on amazon that has rave reviews. I was eyeing it when I still had my 36g tank. I may get that in a week or so. It will be good practice to learn how a skimmer works from my new reef octopus on the display this week as well before making a decision.

Here is the little hob skimmer:

 

[erk]

I will be honest, I already triggered a return for it from amazon to get some $ for the hanna checker.

The frag tank has done well before without it so may wait a while in order to purchase a better skimmer

There is a 60g $60 hob on amazon that has rave reviews. I was eyeing it when I still had my 36g tank. I may get that in a week or so. It will be good practice to learn how a skimmer works from my new reef octopus on the display this week as well before making a decision.

Here is the little hob skimmer:

You could also run it half time. I've been running my skimmer about 12 hours a day now and having good results. Pulling out far more skimmate than when running full time. Not exactly sure why. I think its because I'm giving the bacteria in the tank more time to consume the excess nutrients and build up before pulling them out of the tank.
I run the skimmer at night and have a CO2 scrubber. This is to help keep the pH more stable. I also recycle the air going thru the skimmer. Means I don't use up the CO2 scrubber media as fast. I highly recommend a CO2 scrubber if you can't run a line to outside the house.

 

[living_tribunal]

You could also run it half time. I've been running my skimmer about 12 hours a day now and having good results. Pulling out far more skimmate than when running full time. Not exactly sure why. I think its because I'm giving the bacteria in the tank more time to consume the excess nutrients and build up before pulling them out of the tank.
I run the skimmer at night and have a CO2 scrubber. This is to help keep the pH more stable. I also recycle the air going thru the skimmer. Means I don't use up the CO2 scrubber media as fast. I highly recommend a CO2 scrubber if you can't run a line to outside the house.

I’m not entirely sure what a CO2 scrubber does. What’s its purpose?

Do you personally think I should continue the frag qt without a skimmer or are there benefits to it in this niche situation?

I think your strategy of running the skimmer half the day is advantageous and in theory has merit. A personal goal of mine is to maintain a focus on growing out my bacteria colony as much as possible given my tanks infancy. This seems like a fantastic approach. This would also generate more nitrate for my system since it only has two fish.


The goal is to keep nutrients in a decent range, consistently, in the absence of fish.

One thing I’ve considered is to dose .5ppm ammonia in the tank daily. I’d be spreading it out so 2 drops in the morning, 2 after work, etc.

I also think the reef nutrition has helped add nutrients at nice small and consistent levels. If this continues, I think I’m fine with reef nutrition and once weekly water changes of 15-20%.

In the display, the fish good adds phosphates quick. Nitrates are still on the lower side.

I added a huge thing of tang heaven which is growing alongside Chaeto in the sump. I think I’m ok to add just small doses of nitrogen at this point and stop phosphates.

Additionally, this is one of the main reasons why I’m focusing on my next two fish additions. I think two more fish producing ammonia everyday is the ticket to get this display balanced and allow me to stop dosing nutrients.

I’m excited to see how the reef octopus affects my parameters and also be able to test those parameters accurately with the hanna phosphorous kit.

 

[erk]

I’m not entirely sure what a CO2 scrubber does. What’s its purpose?

Do you personally think I should continue the frag qt without a skimmer or are there benefits to it in this niche situation?

I think your strategy of running the skimmer half the day is advantageous and in theory has merit. A personal goal of mine to continually grow bacteria as much as possible given my tanks infancy. This seems like a fantastic approach. This would also generate more nitrate more my system since it only has two fish.


The goal is to keep nutrients in a decent range, consistently, in the absence of fish.

One thing I’ve considered is to dose .5ppm ammonia in the tank daily. I’d be spreading it out so 2 drops in the morning, 2 after work, etc.

I also think the reef nutrition has helped add nutrients at nice small and consistent levels. If this continues, I think I’m fine with reef nutrition and once weekly water changes of 15-20%.

In the display, the fish good adds phosphates quick. Nitrates are still on the lower side.

I added a huge thing of tang heaven which is growing alongside Chaeto in the sump. I think I’m ok to add just small doses of nitrogen at this point and stop phosphates.

Additionally, this is one of the main reasons why I’m focusing on my next two fish additions. I think two more fish producing ammonia everyday is the ticket to get this display balanced and allow me to stop dosing nutrients.

I’m excited to see how the reef octopus affects my parameters and also be able to test those parameters accurately with the hanna phosphorous kit.

The CO2 scrubber media is used to reduce the amount of CO2 in the air. The media reacts with the CO2 in the air to bind it as calcium carbonate. This in turn reduces the acidification of the aquarium water because less CO2 is available to dissolve into the water.

I'd say remove the skimmer from the frag QT. You could probably get away with just water changes to maintain nutrients. Maybe add a floating basket with macro algae or add a HOB refugium to help reduce the algae growing on the glass.

 

[living_tribunal]

The CO2 scrubber media is used to reduce the amount of CO2 in the air. The media reacts with the CO2 in the air to bind it as calcium carbonate. This in turn reduces the acidification of the aquarium water because less CO2 is available to dissolve into the water.

I'd say remove the skimmer from the frag QT. You could probably get away with just water changes to maintain nutrients. Maybe add a floating basket with macro algae or add a HOB refugium to help reduce the algae growing on the glass.

I once added an hob refugium and the frags hated it. I also think it’s how Dino possibly got to my tank.

I think it may be worthwhile to try again. I’ll have to figure out where I can put it though. I’d be more tempted to try a small basket in the tank so I don’t have to purchase another light.

I did add some amiphods and a small algae may for them under the frag rack. Apparently tang heaven can also survive with minimal light. I’m not sure but currently have s*** tons of it in my sump.

I think I’m at the point where I may have to buy a larger frag tank or use my old 36. The 36 is too tall though. There was a good flash sale of a lowboy frag tank system for sale in our area.

I’m not ready to invest in a second system just now but the 10g is starting to have limitations, especially since it’s nearly stocked right now and we have that big fest in two weeks.

I think the reef nutrition every other day and maybe a once weekly target feeding with a 20-30% weekly water change may be the sweet spot. I may have to dose small amounts of nitrate but that’s nothing.

 

[living_tribunal]

Pretty sure there is some amphipod baby making going on around my cloves.

Had to cover my dogs eyes.

WARNING: NSFW

 

[living_tribunal]

Alright, let’s see what this guy is made of.

 

[living_tribunal]

Something tells me this isn’t how things should work

 

[living_tribunal]

You know you’re a redneck when:

Problem solved.

 

[living_tribunal]

I’m starting to notice more growth from all of my frags, nothing in particular.

My hammer decided to sprout two new heads, my blasto is popping heads, my montis are going nuts with lots of new nubs that are green, and the birdsnest polyps are very fluffy and he’s almost about to grow over the top of the frag tank.

 

[living_tribunal]

Forgot to mention, the lepto that I was almost certain had died is making a slow and consistent recovery. I can say with 100% certainty he is alive, fluorescing green, and the zooxanthelle is reclaiming dead tissue from the algae.