How to Best Mature my Nano Tank and Reduce Phosphate

Ippyroy

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No, but I was thinking that the phyto would help grow my copepod population... I already have pods and amphipods in there that I didn't add
You need to look into culturing it. Have a couple of cultures going so when 1 crashes you still have another one going. It will save you a ton of money. Keep dosing to keep the pods going then.
 
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You need to look into culturing it. Have a couple of cultures going so when 1 crashes you still have another one going. It will save you a ton of money. Keep dosing to keep the pods going then.
Does it need to be regular phytoplankton or is there an advantage to a phytoplankton/ zooplankton blend?
 

Ippyroy

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Does it need to be regular phytoplankton or is there an advantage to a phytoplankton/ zooplankton blend?
I think you can only do one type per container. You need one air pump and then you can separate it into multiple hoses. I can do 4 1 gallon jars at a time. All are different types of phyto. They sit in a box and the box has cheap LED strip lights going around.
 
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I think you can only do one type per container. You need one air pump and then you can separate it into multiple hoses. I can do 4 1 gallon jars at a time. All are different types of phyto. They sit in a box and the box has cheap LED strip lights going around.
No, I mean there are supplements which combine both phyto and zooplankton... would that be beneficial to supplement my tank with more than phyto alone?
 

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No, I mean there are supplements which combine both phyto and zooplankton... would that be beneficial to supplement my tank with more than phyto alone?
It's up to you. it has a lot to do with what you have in your tank. Some corrals will benefit. I prefer to add as few things as possible. Otherwise you run the risk of contaminating the tank. Since you don't have anything in the tank right now I wouldn't add anything really other than ghost feeding. You could add corrals right away though. That might help your tank a lot.
 
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It's up to you. it has a lot to do with what you have in your tank. Some corrals will benefit. I prefer to add as few things as possible. Otherwise you run the risk of contaminating the tank. Since you don't have anything in the tank right now I wouldn't add anything really other than ghost feeding. You could add corrals right away though. That might help your tank a lot.
You're right it probably would...the only hesitation I have is that I was thinking about having a couple fish that aren't reef safe...I think sun corals would probably be ok though and also I was thinking that the zooplankton may help the coralline spread more quickly and be more vibrant
 

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You're right it probably would...the only hesitation I have is that I was thinking about having a couple fish that aren't reef safe...I think sun corals would probably be ok though and also I was thinking that the zooplankton may help the coralline spread more quickly and be more vibrant
Some fish aren't reef safe because they eat specific corrals or snails. The coraline will spread as long as the big 3 parameters are stable. Regular water changes will do that.
 
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Some fish aren't reef safe because they eat specific corrals or snails. The coraline will spread as long as the big 3 parameters are stable. Regular water changes will do that.
What corals were you thinking would help the tank mature? would a few sun corals? BTW, the non reef safe fish I was thinking about was a a butterfly
 

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Most Butterflies eat anemones and snails. Do some research and you will find that many of them can be kept with corrals. They type of corral to help diversify your tank is unimportant. Get the type you like. Start with a few cheap ones you like. No Xenia though. They will cover the entire tank like a weed and the rocks will have to be bleached in order to get rid of them.
Sun Corals are nice but you have to feed them. I'm too lazy for that.
 
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Most Butterflies eat anemones and snails. Do some research and you will find that many of them can be kept with corrals. They type of corral to help diversify your tank is unimportant. Get the type you like. Start with a few cheap ones you like. No Xenia though. They will cover the entire tank like a weed and the rocks will have to be bleached in order to get rid of them.
Sun Corals are nice but you have to feed them. I'm too lazy for that.
I'm actually a big fan of sun corals so that would be awesome if I could keep them...so to recap, what is your recommendation for my dino situation? I plan to use Seachem Phosguard to reduce my phosphates but as for raising my nitrates, how should I do that? Just by ghost feeding or feeding a new clean up crew?
 

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I'm actually a big fan of sun corals so that would be awesome if I could keep them...so to recap, what is your recommendation for my dino situation? I plan to use Seachem Phosguard to reduce my phosphates but as for raising my nitrates, how should I do that? Just by ghost feeding or feeding a new clean up crew?
I may have missed this. What did you test po4 with? I missed the Dino comment. Dinos in new tanks usually come from dry starts are are caused by a lack of po4.... you started with live rock but it is a new tank. You used a Hanna LR?
 
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I may have missed this. What did you test po4 with? I missed the Dino comment. Dinos in new tanks usually come from dry starts are are caused by a lack of po4.... you started with live rock but it is a new tank. You used a Hanna LR?
That's right...live rock...I think it's because my nitrates were bottommed out close to 0
 
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I may have missed this. What did you test po4 with? I missed the Dino comment. Dinos in new tanks usually come from dry starts are are caused by a lack of po4.... you started with live rock but it is a new tank. You used a Hanna LR?
I used a Salifert test
 
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Do you have access to a Hanna checker? Or possibly a LFS that uses them?. Po4 tests are wildly inaccurate with the salifert style tests. You could have 0 phosphate. Or more. But a Dino outbreak makes me question that phosphate number
Unfortunately I don't have access to a Hanna Checker...I'm in Bangkok...I understand what you're saying though because I was adding very little food for the past month or so...did you see the picture I included? If not, I can take more because they definitely look like dinos...what do you recommend I do?
 
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Do you have access to a Hanna checker? Or possibly a LFS that uses them?. Po4 tests are wildly inaccurate with the salifert style tests. You could have 0 phosphate. Or more. But a Dino outbreak makes me question that phosphate number
I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but the rock was wild live rock so maybe it leached phosphate after being in my tank?
 

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I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but the rock was wild live rock so maybe it leached phosphate after being in my tank?
Well Dino I'd is hard with those pictures. But, if you have them.... along with what appears not alot of other algae growth. That would lead me to believe there's no po4 there

@Ippyroy can maybe add to this. I'm no expert but IME salifert po4 tests are never right and all the signs point to not having phosphate. So before running GFO, which would actually make the issue worse if it's true I would find a way to confirm high po4.
 

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So if I were to recommend anything, it would be to do nothing. For now.

Decide on your stocking list and the order in which you want to stock it. All the from snails to fish to coral. Once you have that start stocking the tank slowly.If you plan to qt fish or coral, begin that process as well. Take your time and as you stock and build a routine with water changes or whatever your plan is, the tank will stabilize. Make sure the dinos clear up before the coral. But usually new tank Dino blooms will correct them self.

Just my 2cents. But by all means get all the info and opinions you can
 
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Well Dino I'd is hard with those pictures. But, if you have them.... along with what appears not alot of other algae growth. That would lead me to believe there's no po4 there

@Ippyroy can maybe add to this. I'm no expert but IME salifert po4 tests are never right and all the signs point to not having phosphate. So before running GFO, which would actually make the issue worse if it's true I would find a way to confirm high po4.
Yes, there is very little green algae growth but I thought that was because most algae fed off nitrates...I know that although .25 phos is high and can interfere with coral growth but do you think it will inhibit coralline growth if that number is correct? BTW, the nitrate test should definitely be accurate since I used two separate tests, one of which was Aquaforest Pro Test
 

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