How to bypass DI when flushing?

[Notsolostfish]

If someone can draw me a graph because im too stupid to understand how to connect the t valve anf the y splitter to my waste line when i flush the unit my DI wont get burned by waste water

 

[exnisstech]

Tagging along because I have never flushed anything except when I change resin or filters then I just run water through the entire system.

 

[EricR]

Not sure if this helps or even applies to your setup but look at the "Flush Valve" block and take note of the water path (arrows):

***EDIT -- disregard my very poorly worded description below

Basically (I think):
-- RO housing has two outputs -- one to "flush" and one to DI
-- When "flush valve" is OPEN (unrestricted), it lets the water out to waste without (much) going from RO into DI -- path of least resistance is waste
-- When "flush valve" is CLOSED (((actually "restricted"))), RO water is forced to DI

 

[redfishbluefish]

I want to be clear on what you're talking about. You can "flush" the back side of your membrane by bypassing the restrictor. Here is that setup on my system.

I open this when I'm finished making water and leave it open a minute or so when I start the system. It supposedly extends the life of your membrane, and I can't complain because I just changed my first membrane out after maybe 15 years.

The other "flush" you can do is to bypass your DI on startup to minimize/eliminate the breakthrough TDS going through your DI. This will greatly increase the life of your DI considering, in my case, breakthrough can go up to 50 or 60 for a short period when I start the system. What I've done is to install a threeway valve right before DI. I flip this valve to run water to waste for the first ten minutes or so. By then my TDS is down to 1-3, and I then flip the valve to run water through the DI. Here is the valve on my system:

The tube coming from the upper left corner is coming from the RO unit. The the right is the DI, and to the left, the water goes to waste. The valve is flipped for water going through the DI unit.

Hope this helps.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

The flush valve goes on the waste side of the RO.

When the valve is open, it releases the pressure on the membrane and the water flows around it and then out of the waste line. This prevents most of the water pressure from "pushing" water through the membrane.

In short, you open the flush valve, then water is not allowed to be pushed through the membrane. It all goes out of the waste line.

 

[Garf]

The flush valve just needs to bypass the restrictor. Connect it to either end of the restrictor so water flows around it and to waste. Don’t forget to close it afterwards.

 

[Notsolostfish]

I want to be clear on what you're talking about. You can "flush" the back side of your membrane by bypassing the restrictor. Here is that setup on my system.

I open this when I'm finished making water and leave it open a minute or so when I start the system. It supposedly extends the life of your membrane, and I can't complain because I just changed my first membrane out after maybe 15 years.

The other "flush" you can do is to bypass your DI on startup to minimize/eliminate the breakthrough TDS going through your DI. This will greatly increase the life of your DI considering, in my case, breakthrough can go up to 50 or 60 for a short period when I start the system. What I've done is to install a threeway valve right before DI. I flip this valve to run water to waste for the first ten minutes or so. By then my TDS is down to 1-3, and I then flip the valve to run water through the DI. Here is the valve on my system:

The tube coming from the upper left corner is coming from the RO unit. The the right is the DI, and to the left, the water goes to waste. The valve is flipped for water going through the DI unit.

Hope this helps.

Someone on this server told me this before it was homer


Take the hose going into the DI canister, plug it into the bottom of the valve. Run one side of the valve into the DI canister, the other to the flush valve.

Now take the splitter, and unplug the in from the flush valve and push that into the splitter(the side with one end), take the line from the valve, plug that into the splitter, and the regular waste line(the one that was plugged into the flush valve).

All done.


Thats what they said i couldnt understand why i need a y splitter till these days.

And my brain is not functioning on how to connect all of that together

 

[Garf]

Now I’m actually thinking you want to know how to stop TDS creep going into the DI, that’s different, lol.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Now I’m actually thinking you want to know how to stop TDS creep going into the DI, that’s different, lol.

Im extremely confused here what do i need?

 

[DJF]

it’s good to add a “John Guest” valve just before DI that you toggle to bypass it when you’re flushing- (you can also use it to make drinking water) if you just flush there is still some that goes thru the DI (ref. @redfishbluefish post)

 

[Notsolostfish]

I want to be clear on what you're talking about. You can "flush" the back side of your membrane by bypassing the restrictor. Here is that setup on my system.

I open this when I'm finished making water and leave it open a minute or so when I start the system. It supposedly extends the life of your membrane, and I can't complain because I just changed my first membrane out after maybe 15 years.

The other "flush" you can do is to bypass your DI on startup to minimize/eliminate the breakthrough TDS going through your DI. This will greatly increase the life of your DI considering, in my case, breakthrough can go up to 50 or 60 for a short period when I start the system. What I've done is to install a threeway valve right before DI. I flip this valve to run water to waste for the first ten minutes or so. By then my TDS is down to 1-3, and I then flip the valve to run water through the DI. Here is the valve on my system:

The tube coming from the upper left corner is coming from the RO unit. The the right is the DI, and to the left, the water goes to waste. The valve is flipped for water going through the DI unit.

Hope this helps.

So i dont need the y splitted haha. I hate my life. Today im filling my tank for first time and i dont know what i need to be doing.

 

[GarrettT]

3-Way Ball Valve with John Guest 1/4" Push Connect

Why does BRS recommend this? The 3-way ball valve is probably one of our most favorite fittings. By swinging the handle from one side to another, you can either turn water flow off completely, or direct it from one direction to another. They work great for fresh and saltwater storage...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

When your done flushing, turn the 3 way valve so that it goes through your DI (instead of the sink).

 

[Notsolostfish]

3-Way Ball Valve with John Guest 1/4" Push Connect

Why does BRS recommend this? The 3-way ball valve is probably one of our most favorite fittings. By swinging the handle from one side to another, you can either turn water flow off completely, or direct it from one direction to another. They work great for fresh and saltwater storage...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

When your done flushing, turn the 3 way valve so that it goes through your DI (instead of the sink).

Is that the same way as this statement "
Take the hose going into the DI canister, plug it into the bottom of the valve. Run one side of the valve into the DI canister, the other to the flush valve.

Now take the splitter, and unplug the in from the flush valve and push that into the splitter(the side with one end), take the line from the valve, plug that into the splitter, and the regular waste line(the one that was plugged into the flush valve).

All done.

 

[GarrettT]

I’m more of a visual learner, so I have a hard time understanding that. I keep my actual waste water line “yellow” separate from my soon to be DI “flushed” water line.

 

[Notsolostfish]

I’m more of a visual learner, so I have a hard time understanding that. I keep my actual waste water line “yellow” separate from my soon to be DI “flushed” water line.

Does water still comes out from the pure line when flushing?

 

[GarrettT]

Does water still comes out from the pure line when flushing?

No. It's an either or type valve (not like your standard tee type fitting).

 

[redfishbluefish]

Not sure if we're on the same page!

What I explained above are two different "flushes" you could do to your system. The first simply flushes your membrane and has nothing to do with your DI. It simply bypasses the restrictor and allows anything stuck on the back side of your membrane to be flushed out.

The second kind of flush, if you can call it that, is simply allowing your system to run for a couple minutes, bypassing the DI, to allow breakthrough TDS to be flushed away....to waste. This kind of flush prolongs your DI resin by getting rid of those first couple minutes of high TDS. The only thing you need is a three way valve between your RO unit and the DI cartridge. On startup, flip the valve to run the first couple minutes of water to waste. Once TDS drops.....takes 5-10 minutes, flip the valve to start pushing water through the DI cartridge.

And to be super clear, the drawing above (from @GarrettT ) has a slight mistake in valve orientation.....incoming water (from your RO) comes into the valve on the vertical part of the tee while the exits are to the left of right on the horizontal part of the tee.

One exit goes to waste while the other exit goes to your DI cartridge.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Not sure if we're on the same page!

What I explained above are two different "flushes" you could do to your system. The first simply flushes you membrane and has nothing to do with you DI. It simply bypasses the restrictor and allows anything stuck on the back side of your membrane to be flushes out.

The second kind of flush, if you can call it that, is simply allowing your system to run for a couple minutes, bypassing the DI, to allow breakthrough TDS to be flushed away....to waste. This kind of flush prolongs your DI resin by getting rid of those first couple minutes of high TDS. The only thing you need is a three way valve between you RO unit and the DI cartridge. On startup, flip the valve to run the first couple minutes of water to waste. Once TDS drops.....takes 5-10 minutes, flip the valve to start pushing water through the DI cartridge.

And to be supper clear, the drawing above has a slight mistake.....incoming water (from you RO) comes into the valve on the vertical part of the tee while the exits are to the left of right on the horizontal part of the tee. I'll draw a picture and add it....

Thank you waiting on that picture

 

[GarrettT]

the drawing above has a slight mistake.....incoming water (from you RO) comes into the valve on the vertical part of the tee while the exits are to the left of right on the horizontal part of the tee. I'll draw a picture and add it....

You are correct.