How to ensure irradiation of uronema?

[ARGYGANG]

how would you go about keeping uronema out of a display tank? The fish is not really the issue but rather coral,chaeto, hermits snails etc. how are these things treated for uronema to have the best chance of keeping it out of DT since uronema cannot be fallowed? Any advice is amazing as always I am beginning to stock my 220 soon with cuc and fish, maybe a leather coral or two.

 

[MnFish1]

how would you go about keeping uronema out of a display tank? The fish is not really the issue but rather coral,chaeto, hermits snails etc. how are these things treated for uronema to have the best chance of keeping it out of DT since uronema cannot be fallowed? Any advice is amazing as always I am beginning to stock my 220 soon with cuc and fish, maybe a leather coral or two.

You cannot. Everything you add - unless it's dry/sterile has the potential to add it. The good news is that though I've had a tank for decades - I've never (that I knew of) - had uronema. There IMHO is nothing you can do to prevent the things you mention in your post.

PS - I misread your title - I think you meant eradication. Irradiation will definitely not work. Good luck with your new tank!!!!!

 

[ARGYGANG]

You cannot. Everything you add - unless it's dry/sterile has the potential to add it. The good news is that though I've had a tank for decades - I've never (that I knew of) - had uronema. There IMHO is nothing you can do to prevent the things you mention in your post.

PS - I misread your title - I think you meant eradication. Irradiation will definitely not work. Good luck with your new tank!!!!!

Auto correct makes everyone look like a dummy atleast once a day LOL, and dang that stinks. I was hoping to keep butterfly fish in my 220 I’ve never had a butterfly or chromis live in any of my systems for longer than a month because of uronema I’ve had success with one single dispar anthias…I started with 12 small ones within a month all but one died and I am now left with one.

 

[ARGYGANG]

You cannot. Everything you add - unless it's dry/sterile has the potential to add it. The good news is that though I've had a tank for decades - I've never (that I knew of) - had uronema. There IMHO is nothing you can do to prevent the things you mention in your post.

PS - I misread your title - I think you meant eradication. Irradiation will definitely not work. Good luck with your new tank!!!!!

This was my last attempt he lasted about a month after qt. was fine Wednesday Thursday comes hes breathing heavy by Friday morning he was swimming around and a hour later it’s time to eat he’s dead as a door nail

 

[vetteguy53081]

how would you go about keeping uronema out of a display tank? The fish is not really the issue but rather coral,chaeto, hermits snails etc. how are these things treated for uronema to have the best chance of keeping it out of DT since uronema cannot be fallowed? Any advice is amazing as always I am beginning to stock my 220 soon with cuc and fish, maybe a leather coral or two.

Formalin bath for 45 minutes or ruby bath for 60-90 minutes before introduction and even run ruby rally pro in the display tank for a couple of weeks will assure lower chance. % anthias, three years and no uronema

 

[MnFish1]

Auto correct makes everyone look like a dummy atleast once a day LOL, and dang that stinks. I was hoping to keep butterfly fish in my 220 I’ve never had a butterfly or chromis live in any of my systems for longer than a month because of uronema I’ve had success with one single dispar anthias…I started with 12 small ones within a month all but one died and I am now left with one.

If I were you (if you can) - I would see if you can upgrade your supplier. And - I would not start with 'small ones'. Sorry to hear about your difficulties - but the people - firms selling very small fish IMHO - are doing a dis-service. The answer is - IMHO - others may weigh in - there is no way - unless you want to take the fish etc out bleach the tank etc - and start over. I would also make sure your water conditions are tip top

 

[ARGYGANG]

If I were you (if you can) - I would see if you can upgrade your supplier. And - I would not start with 'small ones'. Sorry to hear about your difficulties - but the people - firms selling very small fish IMHO - are doing a dis-service. The answer is - IMHO - others may weigh in - there is no way - unless you want to take the fish etc out bleach the tank etc - and start over. I would also make sure your water conditions are tip top

Awesome and that was my follow up question where do you and others buy your fish from if you were to use a online retailer?

 

[MnFish1]

Awesome and that was my follow up question where do you and others buy your fish from if you were to use a online retailer?

I would never (again) use an online retailer. Many will disagree. I buy from an LFS here. They can order whatever I want.

 

[ARGYGANG]

I would never (again) use an online retailer. Many will disagree. I buy from an LFS here. They can order whatever I want.

noted, my only issue with my lfs is when buying high dollar fish that “family owned” mark up will take a four inch purple tang from $400 to $700 real quick haha.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Awesome and that was my follow up question where do you and others buy your fish from if you were to use a online retailer?

Buy what you can inspect and see eat, see blemishes and how they interact with each other in the display.
Online- Dr Reef and Reef beauties are trusted sources with 14-15 day guarantees

 

[Qasimja]

ive had a few anthias that got it in QT generally they will get it during the QT process ive never had a fish get it after being established in the tank

 

[MnFish1]

noted, my only issue with my lfs is when buying high dollar fish that “family owned” mark up will take a four inch purple tang from $400 to $700 real quick haha.

How much have you spent so far on fish that are no longer with us. The LFS that I use QT's fish - and sells them - and ships them - if you would like to know - you can PM me.

 

[dennis romano]

At the moment, I have eight butterflies in a 125 FOWLR and a copperband in a reef. I have found that small 1 to 2 inch and over 5 inch butterflies just don't do well, no matter the source. The small ones just don't have the body fat to survive if they are picky eaters. Larger fish tend to have a more difficult time adjusting to aquarium life. All have come from different on line vendors with two coming from two different LFSs. I won't mention names of vendors but ordering on line is a crap shoot. I've gotten bad fish from well respected vendors and great fish from a vendor who you wouldn't expect.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

At the moment, I have eight butterflies in a 125 FOWLR and a copperband in a reef. I have found that small 1 to 2 inch and over 5 inch butterflies just don't do well, no matter the source. The small ones just don't have the body fat to survive if they are picky eaters. Larger fish tend to have a more difficult time adjusting to aquarium life. All have come from different on line vendors with two coming from two different LFSs. I won't mention names of vendors but ordering on line is a crap shoot. I've gotten bad fish from well respected vendors and great fish from a vendor who you wouldn't expect.

Yes - there is definitely a "size slot" for butterflyfish, medium sized ones always do best. Then of course, there is huge variability between species, as well as variable quality from vendors.

In terms of Uronema issues for the OP, as mentioned by others, Uronema can be isolated from almost every long established aquarium, they normally feed on bacteria. I've only seen internal Uronema infections (untreatable) in newly acquired fish of certain species (chromis, anthias and wrasse mostly). I have seen treatable external Uronema in seahorses and seadragons.

Jay