How to get rid of green hair algae?

[NicksTanks223]

I have had green hair algae growing in my tank for a while now and it’s really starting to be a problem. At first when I didn’t have any corals I would be able to use a tooth brush and just clean it off pretty easily. But now that I have a tank full of corals I have the same problem in a different way. The hair algae is growing in between corals such as my zoanthids and around sps that I cannot move to scrape the algae off. I only dose magnesium as of right now and I only test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and magnesium. I would be able to get some other test kits but I was trying to avoid it until the corals start needing other nutrients I would need to dose. I was mainly avoiding it because for a good test kit in my area they are around 30$ for each different level. By levels I mean calcium, magnesium, phosphate, etc. I’m just looking for some advice. Thanks

 

[SPR1968]

It’s generally caused by raised phosphate which it can use as a food source and give valve zero phosphate readings

I would look at methods to remove phosphate from the system (I use rowaphos in a reactor)

There are other products like Vibrant liquid, but you need to deal with the source of the problem

 

[vetteguy53081]

Your best bet is to pull as much as you can by hand, reduce feeding quantity and reduce white light intensity and light time.
Although vibrant works well, it has it’s drawbacks.

 

[NicksTanks223]

Your best bet is to pull as much as you can by hand, reduce feeding quantity and reduce white light intensity and light time.
Although vibrant works well, it has it’s drawbacks.

What are some drawbacks for using vibrant? It is coral safe I’m assuming?

 

[iMi]

Light spectrum if you can dial it in and don't mind the "windex" look will help a lot, good clean up crew www.reefcleaners.org will be your best bet (I've ordered from them many years ago and again recently when I jumped back into the hobby).

Good quality carbon, increased skimmer output, GFO will also help maintain lower phosphate and nitrates levels. More frequent/larger water changes. Also, recommend you invest in solid foundation test kit. It's worth the cost to give you a clear picture of what's happening in your reef.

If you want the easy way out, Vibrant or Red Sea Algae Management will do the job as well.

 

[brandon429]

how many gallons is this tank Nickstanks

 

[Barnabie Mejia]

What are some drawbacks for using vibrant? It is coral safe I’m assuming?

I definitely works, but you have to be careful because it can drive your nutrients down so hard that it will cause low nutrient issues like dinos or cyano.

use it carefully..... it will make your water crystal clear though!!!

 

[vetteguy53081]

What are some drawbacks for using vibrant? It is coral safe I’m assuming?

Nutrients reduction, effect on pods and can affect the tissue on corals. It also can make the tank appear so clean that you will consider skipping some water changes.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

Your best bet is to pull as much as you can by hand, reduce feeding quantity and reduce white light intensity and light time.
Although vibrant works well, it has it’s drawbacks.

Drawbacks like.........(interested) sorry now I see I was so interested that I didn't read you were already asked and you explained. Thank you! Sorry...

 

[NicksTanks223]

how many gallons is this tank Nickstanks

20 Gallons

 

[brandon429]

the reason I ask is:


much larger than that, and you're into large tankers rules which prohibit this below, but rarely earn 100 similar outcomes in a single thread, which we produce all day long in rip cleans. if you can imagine, this is only 2 of about 2000 logged outcomes post rip-clean, take it fwiw. even if you don't like the method, I bet this thread wont get a stronger or cleaner match to a 20 gallon system before, after set.


because your tank is a nano, you have accessibility that large tankers do not have, you can take apart your reef, clean it, assemble it back clean and without algae. the result is perfection

and you can run it on a nano that isn't in trouble, to head off waste storage that welcomes invasions. the method is never harmful...the tank is either too big to run the method on or its not, simple as that:

Algae Identification

Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?

www.reef2reef.com

the reason methods that don't involve disassembly cleaning aren't as effective is because they leave in waste, lots and lots of cloudy waste.

ours is purely free of that, so you can feed increase and pump protein into the corals, and its not sinking on top of already spent waste...ours clears room for action, not stagnancy. this grows your corals faster and it leaves your tank algae free, we never checked parameters one time above. only gallonage of the tank matters.

the only reason to not run a rip clean is if someone thinks its harmful

we also rip clean home move tanks...where folks have to take apart a reef even if you don't want to, because a new home is coming.


100% positive outcomes, nobody can say the process is harmful they'd be making up things. we either want the results shown above or we don't, its a simple choice now. not a huge drawn out chemistry issue...that's large tankers rules.

 

[Uncle99]

What are some drawbacks for using vibrant? It is coral safe I’m assuming?

I lost 80% of my coralline while using vibrant over 16 weeks to rid bubble algae and GHA. Destroyed the green, but maybe coincidentally, lost the coralline in the same period.
Anecdotal anyways.

 

[NicksTanks223]

the reason I ask is:


much larger than that, and you're into large tankers rules which prohibit this below, but rarely earn 100 similar outcomes in a single thread, which we produce all day long in rip cleans. if you can imagine, this is only 2 of about 2000 logged outcomes post rip-clean, take it fwiw. even if you don't like the method, I bet this thread wont get a stronger or cleaner match to a 20 gallon system before, after set.


because your tank is a nano, you have accessibility that large tankers do not have, you can take apart your reef, clean it, assemble it back clean and without algae. the result is perfection

and you can run it on a nano that isn't in trouble, to head off waste storage that welcomes invasions. the method is never harmful...the tank is either too big to run the method on or its not, simple as that:

Algae Identification

Any opinions on what type of algae this is growing on my rocks and sand bed?

www.reef2reef.com

the reason methods that don't involve disassembly cleaning aren't as effective is because they leave in waste, lots and lots of cloudy waste.

ours is purely free of that, so you can feed increase and pump protein into the corals, and its not sinking on top of already spent waste...ours clears room for action, not stagnancy. this grows your corals faster and it leaves your tank algae free, we never checked parameters one time above. only gallonage of the tank matters.

the only reason to not run a rip clean is if someone thinks its harmful

we also rip clean home move tanks...where folks have to take apart a reef even if you don't want to, because a new home is coming.


100% positive outcomes, nobody can say the process is harmful they'd be making up things. we either want the results shown above or we don't, its a simple choice now. not a huge drawn out chemistry issue...that's large tankers rules.

I just did this method and cleaned everything off for the most part. There is a tiny bit of algae here and there but i don’t think it will be able to come back after another day of a blackout. I also have been doing a blackout since yesterday so hopefully all of this will help it to finally go away. I think the main problem is my lights weren’t on a timer which sometimes they would be on for 12-15 hours a day if I wasn’t able to be home and I am a heavy feeder. I love to feed my animals man lol