How to know if fish are truly ich free?

Miami Reef

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I quarantined a few tangs in copper for 14 days plus transferred them out. They are currently in observation. The blue tang broke out with viral/bacterial spots that look like velvet. I have a black mollie and it looks clean, but Iafraid that somehow the tank got contaminated.

I don’t know. It’s possible I dipped my hand in the tank when it wasn’t 100% clean. I didn’t shower beforehand. I’m very cautious - more cautious than most people, but I’m still not confident.

I want to treat them in copper for 30 days and officially transfer them inside the DT. I think the most common way for ich to make it through is from the Observation tank.


Anyway, what can I do now? Do I trust my tangs are ich free? I have 3 tangs - flame angel - hawkfish in the same tank. Only the blue tang has spots for 10 days. I read bacterial tufts are extremely common among blue tangs in particular!

My tank will complete its fallow by the end of this month. But I don’t feel confident that my fish are truly ich free.

Also note: I’ve never had parasite free fish before. I’m used to seeing spots on my fish and I feel weird because none of my fish have spots (except for the blue tang). I feel like this is some cruel joke and the second these fish hit my DT ich will then start showing on the fish.
 
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Miami Reef

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This was 10 days ago:



It doesn’t look like this now. Right now it’s spread all over the top of its body. It’s so so small that it won’t even show up on pictures! But you can see it in person.
 
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Then I’d say double it if you are in question. I don’t have any evidence on that. I’ve never done it, and don’t plan to haha
Thanks.

But my concern is about transferring the fish over to the new tank. How do I know if they aren't carrying ich?
 

ihavecrabs

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I have used fresh water black mollies. Transition them to salt water and then add them in with the tangs. Since they are fresh water fish. They have no immunity and with their black color, it is easy to spot inch or velvet.

If they do show signs of infection, transition them back to fresh water to cure and retreat your marine fish.

If they don’t, you can keep them as a marine fish if you like. Great algae eaters. Just don’t dispose of them or return them back to the store.
 
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Miami Reef

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You know the answer, but don’t want say it aloud. Do another copper treatment of all to be sure.
Update! I restarted the copper treatment. I’m maintaining copper at 2.4-2.6ppm and test daily with Hannah checker.

The blue tang at first looked clean, but broke out with the same bacterial stuff DURING copper.

This proves that the fish was clean from ich. I’m getting ready to transfer them into sterile observation tanks tomorrow.
 

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Update! I restarted the copper treatment. I’m maintaining copper at 2.4-2.6ppm and test daily with Hannah checker.

The blue tang at first looked clean, but broke out with the same bacterial stuff DURING copper.

This proves that the fish was clean from ich. I’m getting ready to transfer them into sterile observation tanks tomorrow.
I just read on another thread that blue tangs get some sort of mucus plug thing when they are treated with copper. It will look like ich / velvet, but it’s not. I’d say you are safe … sounds like a reaction to the copper itself
 

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Is there any way you can take pictures? It’ll be hard to make accurate diagnosis without seeing a good picture of it. Good luck
 
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Update: I put the blue tang back into copper. The spots disappeared but then reappeared in the middle of treatment. I did the transfer and FED really heavily and the spots never came back again!
 

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You indicated your first QT attempt was for 14 days of copper treatment.

You really need to go the full 30 days recommended in the quarantine protocols. The life cycle of Crypto is such that some of the cysts may not hatch within a 14 day window. And once the copper is gone they are free to reinfect the fish.
 
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You indicated your first QT attempt was for 14 days of copper treatment.

You really need to go the full 30 days recommended in the quarantine protocols. The life cycle of Crypto is such that some of the cysts may not hatch within a 14 day window. And once the copper is gone they are free to reinfect the fish.
I did a 14 day plus transfer into sterile QT. It is an option that also works. Jay doesn’t recommend it, but other people do. More than one way to skin a cat. ;)
 

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I misunderstood the other posts in the thread. I thought you had decided it didn't work since you restarted the copper treatment.
 
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I misunderstood the other posts in the thread. I thought you had decided it didn't work since you restarted the copper treatment.
I thought it didn’t work, but after seeing the fish break out during copper treatment (which is impossible because I’ve maintained it at 2.5ppm for 12-14 days) I did the transfer and never saw the bacterial stuff come back.
 

AdamWilliam

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I Copper Power, Metro and Prazi treated 2 Clowns, a Chromis and a Blue Tang for 14 days - then transfering them to a sterile observation tank. This is their third week in there - waiting for my 76 days fallow to end tomorrow. It took everything i had not to put them in there today (Sunday at 75 days).

My blue tang also developed some grayish raised spots that I have learnt are a common reaction to copper. The grey bumps were more focused on the head and lateral line/fins. This was noticeable when my copper level got too high at one stage (2.8ppm). I quickly reduced this down to 2.3 where it remained for the rest of the 14 days. As the blue tang ate more and got comfortable the grey marks started to reduce. By the time i put them all in the sterile QT tank after the 14 days of Copper Power treatment, my blue tang had one remaining grey spot on his top fin. I watched this slowly reduce down and disappear over the span of roughly 7 days. I was praying that it didn't suddenly disappear (meaning Ich or Velvet) but that it slowly got smaller and smaller until i couldn't see it again. Nearly 2 weeks later no fish have any signs of Ich/Velvet.

I lost 5 fish overnight from Velvet - I have learnt A LOT! I now have a full QT setup in the garage with all the main meds on hand. Never again do i want to go through the experience that is velvet.

You can't convince someone to QT everything, they will make that decision when their luck runs out and velvet catches up with them.
 

Gatorj31

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I Copper Power, Metro and Prazi treated 2 Clowns, a Chromis and a Blue Tang for 14 days - then transfering them to a sterile observation tank. This is their third week in there - waiting for my 76 days fallow to end tomorrow. It took everything i had not to put them in there today (Sunday at 75 days).

My blue tang also developed some grayish raised spots that I have learnt are a common reaction to copper. The grey bumps were more focused on the head and lateral line/fins. This was noticeable when my copper level got too high at one stage (2.8ppm). I quickly reduced this down to 2.3 where it remained for the rest of the 14 days. As the blue tang ate more and got comfortable the grey marks started to reduce. By the time i put them all in the sterile QT tank after the 14 days of Copper Power treatment, my blue tang had one remaining grey spot on his top fin. I watched this slowly reduce down and disappear over the span of roughly 7 days. I was praying that it didn't suddenly disappear (meaning Ich or Velvet) but that it slowly got smaller and smaller until i couldn't see it again. Nearly 2 weeks later no fish have any signs of Ich/Velvet.

I lost 5 fish overnight from Velvet - I have learnt A LOT! I now have a full QT setup in the garage with all the main meds on hand. Never again do i want to go through the experience that is velvet.

You can't convince someone to QT everything, they will make that decision when their luck runs out and velvet catches up with them.
What size qt tank did you have it I may ask? I have a 20L and a 29g, but I’m worried about putting more than a couple fish in at a time.

Have you read about the new fallow period guidelines? I originally planned 76 days as well until I saw the new study… I guess the 76 day thing came from an older study with temps at 68 degrees which isn’t realistic in marine tanks.
 
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