How to reduce Nitrate and Phosphate in a newly cycled tank?

[Hank The Tank]

I finished cycling my tank last week and added two new clowns. Mine is a 15G Waterbox Nano tank running on the stock filtration system (filter sock, sponge, bio media, return pump). Ammonia and Nitrite is 0, but my Nitrate is at 40PPM. I did a 20% water change, and it still stayed at 40PPM. YouTube have so many solutions with carbon dosing using skimmers, or a sump with Chato. I don't have room or want to invest in additional equipment but this Youtuber, Aqua Spendor hung a piece of chato inside the display tank (see pics). As the chato grows in the tank, I can harvest it and remove nitrate. Is this a viable short term solution to get the nitrate and phosphate down to a respectable level (without investing in more equipment) and then I will keep up with water changes to maintain low nitrate? Give me your thoughts. Thanks reefers.

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

For a small setup like your the most cost effective way to reduce nutrients is by water changes. Unless you are adding tap water your nitrate and phos will always go down with a water change. I would suggest a big water change. Match the temp and salinity. Since you don't have any corals yet you shouldn't have to worry about other elements.

 

[Reef.]

Water change! 20% w/c would have only reduced the nitrate by 20%, so from 40 to 32 and I doubt your test kit is good enough to pick up a 20% reduction.

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

^ this. I smell an API "master" test kit.

 

[Hank The Tank]

Water change! 20% w/c would have only reduced the nitrate by 20%, so from 40 to 32 and I doubt your test kit is good enough to pick up a 20% reduction.

Good explanation. If I take the two fishes out and do a 100% water change, will i almost remove all of it. I might try that. Thanks. One question though: should I vacuum the sand bed? Wouldn't I be removing the beneficial bacteria that was recently introduced in the tank?

 

[ichthyogeek]

Good explanation. If I take the two fishes out and do a 100% water change, will i almost remove all of it. I might try that. Thanks. One question though: should I vacuum the sand bed? Wouldn't I be removing the beneficial bacteria that was recently introduced in the tank?

Agreed on the water change. Nano tanks are great because any changes like nitrate and phosphate can be fixed with a water change. Then again, they're bad bc the quality changes so quickly.

Vacuuming the sand bed is still relatively controversial. I'm pro-vac, since I feel that it removes the detritus that builds up in the sand bed, which can contribute to rises in organics. It wouldn't overly remove the bacteria, since you'd still have bacteria on the walls, in the rocks, in the filter, etc.

 

[lion king]

Macro algae is the best solution to filter nitrates and phosphates. Carbon dosing is a little more complicated for a new tank, research can answer those questions. Obviously water changes as well as there are other ways to add macro algae, when you are in the mood to add more equipment, an algae reactor or hob refugium. Look into other types of macro like caulerpa and gracilaria, as these look very nice in a display.

 

[Reef.]

Good explanation. If I take the two fishes out and do a 100% water change, will i almost remove all of it. I might try that. Thanks. One question though: should I vacuum the sand bed? Wouldn't I be removing the beneficial bacteria that was recently introduced in the tank?

I would do maybe 3 30%ish changes, you may not have corals yet, which don’t like big changes but neither do fish, matching ph, salinity, alk, heat etc etc is not easy on a 100% change, a couple of smaller changes is easier for you too, I would only do a 100% change in an emergency situation. Or if no corals or fish in tank.

I vacuum, if you do it regularly, all or a part at a time, it’s a good way to remove detritus, you just need to be more careful if you haven’t vacuumed the sand previously, then only do a small section when you do a water change, once it’s all been done, you can do larger areas as you please.

Vacuuming does not remove the bacteria.

 

[splitting_lanes]

I used macro algae in my biocube for many years to control nitrate. Highly recommend that in combination with reg water changes.

 

[Hank The Tank]

Macro algae is the best solution to filter nitrates and phosphates. Carbon dosing is a little more complicated for a new tank, research can answer those questions. Obviously water changes as well as there are other ways to add macro algae, when you are in the mood to add more equipment, an algae reactor or hob refugium. Look into other types of macro like caulerpa and gracilaria, as these look very nice in a display.

Great suggestion. I found a good video by BRS talking about exactly this subject. I think I will be adding Red Ogo Gracilaria Parvispora from Algaebarn. It looks really nice with red and burgandy colors in the display tank. Having in the tank will help maintain the nutrient levels. My only concern is when I introduce the cleanup crew, snails, crabs, shrimp. Will they eat it up? Obviously, no tangs, so I'm thinking the clowns or goby won't be eating it.

 

[lion king]

Great suggestion. I found a good video by BRS talking about exactly this subject. I think I will be adding Red Ogo Gracilaria Parvispora from Algaebarn. It looks really nice with red and burgandy colors in the display tank. Having in the tank will help maintain the nutrient levels. My only concern is when I introduce the cleanup crew, snails, crabs, shrimp. Will they eat it up? Obviously, no tangs, so I'm thinking the clowns or goby won't be eating it.

No the cuc you are mentioning eat micro alagae, macroalgae is too dense in cellular structure for these critters to be interested.

 

[Hank The Tank]

No the cuc you are mentioning eat micro alagae, macroalgae is too dense in cellular structure for these critters to be interested.

Thank you for reassuring me that the critters won't be mowing the Gracilaria down within a week. I will be sure to buy some and place it in the display tank and of course coupling that with water changes.

 

[Glass Algae]

^ this. I smell an API "master" test kit.

B B b but it said MASTER

 

[amarcini]

I used macro algae in my biocube for many years to control nitrate. Highly recommend that in combination with reg water changes.

What macro algae would you recommend for a stock biocube 16 ?

 

[splitting_lanes]

What macro algae would you recommend for a stock biocube 16 ?

Carlurpa is good, because it looks nice, but it will need regular harvesting, and it’s hard to obtain.

Chaeto can be controlled more easily and kept in a corner.

you may want to check how the other algae that was suggested in this thread looks, and see what is available that you like.

 

[Hank The Tank]

Carlurpa is good, because it looks nice, but it will need regular harvesting, and it’s hard to obtain.

Chaeto can be controlled more easily and kept in a corner.

you may want to check how the other algae that was suggested in this thread looks, and see what is available that you like.

Thanks for your reply to my post. I'd purchased some chaeto from a LFS three weeks ago and placed it in the display tank. It's been working out great and grew 3x it's size. I went through it by hand strand by strand and found a bristle worm and another unidentified worm before placing it in my tank. Watching it ever since and no pest at all. My nitrate is 0 now. Mostly because of agressive water change and the chaeto. I harvested a tennis ball size chaeto yesterday and can give it away if someone is interested, they look super clean because I inspected it again, every strand. Nothing else better to do in this stupid pandemic. LOL.