Huge score? Anyone familiar with Innovation Marine aquariums?

[ThePlummer]

Well, the new aquarium mat showed up today. Anyone have any experience with this.

The mat that it's replacing was adhered to the top of the cabinet, not the bottom of the aquarium, as is done with my 14 Gallon aquarium.

As a result, there are sections torn up (the reason I'm replacing it in the first place), and the aquarium is really heavy, and it doesn't want to slide around on the mat very well. I don't want to destroy this new one, rasseling that big thing back into place, once the work is done with it. And I only want to move this thing one more time, before it gets water in it.

What I'm thinking is to NOT pull the adhesive paper off the new foam, but rather lay it directly on the stand, and put a black piece of paper on top of the mat, so I can move and adjust the aquarium, without destroying this mat too.

Or are their easier ways to manage this delimma?

 

[ThePlummer]

Update:

Arches cut out. Next to make a steel support structure to replace the lost wood.

Goo gone took all the adhesive off the stand top foam residue.

Built a riser for the 40 breeder to hold current livestock and still utilize the HOB filter and sump, so the 55 can be converted to sump duties.

NET X scratch removal system should arrive today so I can get started cleaning up the glass.

 

[ThePlummer]

Pic of 40 riser on its stand.

 

[ThePlummer]

Update: I've been trying to remove some scratches from the glass. Purchased Net X scratch removal system. I'm not liking this product very much. The abrasive pads don't last very long at all, they don't even cover a 1 square foot area before they are shot. And with a purchase price of $40.00 for a 1 oz. bottle of final polish two felt pads and 4 abrasive pads, doesn't seem like it's an economical option either.

As well as, once both grits of sanding disk are used and the final polish is used, there seems to be some swirls in the glass that I've not been able to get out, no matter how much I rub with the drill. I don't think the swirls will show once it's got water in it, but the claim that NetX restores glass to new... well, not so much.

Anyone have any tips for a better method of scratch removal?

Exotic Marine overflow and Sump Kit are ordered and being made as we speak.

 

[ThePlummer]

I guess no one watching this thread has ever tried to remove scratches from glass. Ohh well, I’ll figure it out in time.

Update : got the temporary 40 up and running today, which free’s up the 55 for sump/refugium duties. Just waiting for the sump kit and weir to arrive from Exotic Marine.
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The 55 is 30 years old now and the silicon hasn’t been updated. I’m thinking I’m going to just cut out the clear sealing silicone and replace it with black silicone. I think that would look good considering the baffle kit comes in black too.

Time to get to cleaning up that filthy 55. Hmm. My work is never done.

 

[ThePlummer]

Update: Exotic Marine 32” overflow arrived today. Only took about an hour to install.

This thing is slick.

 

[kyleinpdx]

Update: Exotic Marine 32” overflow arrived today. Only took about an hour to install.

This thing is slick.

nice man, making progress!

 

[ThePlummer]

Most of the return plumbing is laid out.

Don’t have the vacuum breaker stuff yet, but this is the basic layout so I can make all the runs equidistant so they flow at approximately the same flow and pressure.

Question: should I leave the returns white, or paint them black to blend in since the back of the aquarium is exposed to the kitchen area?

 

[ThePlummer]

nice man, making progress!

Yeah, finally. Their stuff is really good, but I'm not too impressed with the turn around times, and even less impressed with customer service.

I was hoping the 55 Gal. Sump/refugium was in this delivery.... But nope. I can't put the stand back together till that thing is completed and installed. The stand has been setting in place, upside down, with the bottom off for nearly a month now, waiting for the sump kit.

 

[ThePlummer]

Got The RO/DI installed under the kitchen and plumbed to the Ice maker on the fridge that the aquarium is going to butt up to. 50' of copper line running behind the diswasher, into the laundry room, over the door and through the back of my master bedroom closet, then back into the kitchen on the other side, through 6' cabinet.

My plan is (When BRS delivers an electric solenoid RODI Flood Guardian, is to plumb that to a 10 gal aquarium in the one section of the stand that's left open and have a electric timer, that only comes on for an hour a day, to refill the ATO tank.

Future idea is to tap into the copper line in the master bedroom and put a 62 gallon well pressure tank, so the RO unit can make me lots of water and under pressure. Then plumb a 1/2" line and Ball valve to a 45 gallon trash can next to the pressure tank, for fresh salt water. Plumb a pump with 1/2" line through the same kitchen cabinet and into the display cabinet with another float switch. Then use a 3 position rocker switch one to power the ATO and the other to power the new salt water tank. Going to plumb a 1/2 " Tee and Ball valve off the 1" full siphon on the Bean Animal drain for semi automatic water changes. Will also probably have to put 1" BV below the 1/2" drain, otherwise it will just pull a vacuum instead of actually draining out the water change spigot.

 

[ThePlummer]

Things are moving forward nicely. Returns drilled and mostly plumbed. Just have to decide how I want to do the vacuum breakers.

 

[fishface NJ]

Most of the return plumbing is laid out.

Don’t have the vacuum breaker stuff yet, but this is the basic layout so I can make all the runs equidistant so they flow at approximately the same flow and pressure.

Question: should I leave the returns white, or paint them black to blend in since the back of the aquarium is exposed to the kitchen area?

I would paint them black since it is exposed to the kitchen area. Everything is coming along great!

 

[KenO]

Got The RO/DI installed under the kitchen and plumbed to the Ice maker on the fridge that the aquarium is going to butt up to. 50' of copper line running behind the diswasher, into the laundry room, over the door and through the back of my master bedroom closet, then back into the kitchen on the other side, through 6' cabinet.

My plan is (When BRS delivers an electric solenoid RODI Flood Guardian, is to plumb that to a 10 gal aquarium in the one section of the stand that's left open and have a electric timer, that only comes on for an hour a day, to refill the ATO tank.

Future idea is to tap into the copper line in the master bedroom and put a 62 gallon well pressure tank, so the RO unit can make me lots of water and under pressure. Then plumb a 1/2" line and Ball valve to a 45 gallon trash can next to the pressure tank, for fresh salt water. Plumb a pump with 1/2" line through the same kitchen cabinet and into the display cabinet with another float switch. Then use a 3 position rocker switch one to power the ATO and the other to power the new salt water tank. Going to plumb a 1/2 " Tee and Ball valve off the 1" full siphon on the Bean Animal drain for semi automatic water changes. Will also probably have to put 1" BV below the 1/2" drain, otherwise it will just pull a vacuum instead of actually draining out the water change spigot.

Is the copper pipe after your RO unit?

 

[ThePlummer]

Is the copper pipe after your RO unit?

Yes. I think I know where your going with this. I doubt the RO water will be in contact with the copper long enough to cause problems. I've been using non RODI water for many years that was delivered through copper. But If I'm wrong, I'm all ears.

 

[ThePlummer]

I got the electric solenoid installed last night, and made some fresh salt water. Incidentally, I checked the TDS in at 2ppm, and then checked the out, and it was 3 ppm.... I wonder (since I bought this unit used), if the previous owners water was so bad that the filters are leaking ever so slightly.

 

[ahiggins]

For sure remove the AIO section and drill if. If you're not comfortable doing it, I'm sure a local LFS would.

love your signature by the way!!
sale bin ftw

 

[KenO]

Yes. I think I know where your going with this. I doubt the RO water will be in contact with the copper long enough to cause problems. I've been using non RODI water for many years that was delivered through copper. But If I'm wrong, I'm all ears.

RO/DI water is not normal water. Since it is lacking ions it will try to pull them from any surface it comes in contact with. I store my RO/DI water in a Norwesco 105 gallon container. I’ve read that tin can be used in making certain plastics. Under normal conditions the tin doesn’t get into the water. In my case the RO/DI water is causing the tin to leach from the plastic. It has been steadily decreasing overtime, so at some point it will be gone. Even though you say the RO/DI water won’t be in contact with the copper for long and I’m not sure how long it will take to fill your 60+ gallon storage, overtime it will most likely eat away at the copper.

 

[ThePlummer]

RO/DI water is not normal water. Since it is lacking ions it will try to pull them from any surface it comes in contact with. I store my RO/DI water in a Norwesco 105 gallon container. I’ve read that tin can be used in making certain plastics. Under normal conditions the tin doesn’t get into the water. In my case the RO/DI water is causing the tin to leach from the plastic. It has been steadily decreasing overtime, so at some point it will be gone. Even though you say the RO/DI water won’t be in contact with the copper for long and I’m not sure how long it will take to fill your 60+ gallon storage, overtime it will most likely eat away at the copper.

Hmm, good point... I always forget about the solvent nature of H20. In that pure water has a very high solvency rate. In fact, that's what soap does. The soap doesn't actually clean your hands, it just makes the water 'wetter'.

However, this copper tubing has been in place since 2012, and I'm thinking I'll let it go for a while and see how things go. I can easily buy 50' of plastic tubing and fish it where the copper is, if need be.

Now that brings me another thought.... I wonder if the rubber bladder from the pressure tank is going to release any of it's petroleum byproducts into the RO water....

 

[KenO]

Maybe I missed something. I’m reading vacuum breakers and solenoids. Do you have a diagram of what you are trying to do? Why do you want your RO/DI water under pressure?

 

[ThePlummer]

Maybe I missed something. I’m reading vacuum breakers and solenoids. Do you have a diagram of what you are trying to do? Why do you want your RO/DI water under pressure?

The vacuum breakers are going to be for the returns on the drilled aquarium, since I've drilled 4 returns so low in the display. If a power failure happens, I am also going to use a check valve down by the sump... but I want total redundancy, and the vacuum breaker system will give me the protection if the check valves lock open.

The electric solenoid is to fill the 10 gallon ATO tank automatically. Again, this is safety redundancy. Since I'm going to have 62 gallons of RODI water, under 80 psi (well bladder tank), I want to make sure that I have an electric solenoid, plugged into a timer, that only comes on once a day, for no more than an hour.... And i'll time it to when I'm most likely to be home and awake, just in case something fails.