does hydrogen peroxide help to destroy ich in reef tank ? In what doses you would have to add hydrogen peroxide to keep it reef safe ?
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Have you read this?Is there a post that deals with having an up and running reef that has been infected with ich, that is not torn down or fish removed and treated. Post out break.
Once things are stabilized how to add new fish to the system? If you do the proper step of quarantining new fish treating them for possible illnesses but then add them to your infected system, how likely are they to still come down with the infection and die?
Yes ive read that and many other articles on treatment. My issue is i have a 180 gallon display that has 2 large epoxyed rocks. They were assembled from smaller pieces of dryrock. Theres no way to catch and remove all my fish. This is why i asked about the quarantine of new fish. I have quarantined ecery fish in my system but recently after adding a rock with a coral colony on it i had an ich breakout. I lost a couple clowns to it. My tangs pulled through with only getting a few spots. One has kept scratching the sand bed though. I did run the polylab medic treatment for 30 days. I am also looking at getting a uv sterilizer. Only thing is i have to decide how im plumbing it.
My personal opinion is that it is still important to QT incoming fish. My biggest concern would be introducing something like Velvet on top of the ich.Yes ive read that and many other articles on treatment. My issue is i have a 180 gallon display that has 2 large epoxyed rocks. They were assembled from smaller pieces of dryrock. Theres no way to catch and remove all my fish. This is why i asked about the quarantine of new fish. I have quarantined ecery fish in my system but recently after adding a rock with a coral colony on it i had an ich breakout. I lost a couple clowns to it. My tangs pulled through with only getting a few spots. One has kept scratching the sand bed though. I did run the polylab medic treatment for 30 days. I am also looking at getting a uv sterilizer. Only thing is i have to decide how im plumbing it.
That is hard to answer. It will likely depend on the specific fish and how much aggression it receives. Just like people, some fish have stronger immune systems than others. I would recommend a 2QT setup though. Do an 8 to 10 day copper treatment with a transfer to a new, clean QT to recover and observe for a few days. I feel that is easier on the fish than a full 30 day treatment. It may give them a better chance when exposed to the parasite in your system.Yeah ill definitely keep qt practices going, my main worry is the stress on new fish coming out of qt and entering the main display. How likely are they to comedown with an outbreak.
Thanks for that suggestion ,ill try it out. I normally do a mild copper on all fish capable to handle it, run carbon than if theres any question i run the pozi treatment. I keep every fish in qt for 30 days after final treatment. I run carbon and used to transfer 5 gallons a week from the main display to the qt after final treatment. This last step 8 am reconsidering though now.That is hard to answer. It will likely depend on the specific fish and how much aggression it receives. Just like people, some fish have stronger immune systems than others. I would recommend a 2QT setup though. Do an 8 to 10 day copper treatment with a transfer to a new, clean QT to recover and observe for a few days. I feel that is easier on the fish than a full 30 day treatment. It may give them a better chance when exposed to the parasite in your system.
Ive always qt 'd my fish, like i said i run a copper cycle and then the prozi if they look like they need it. I always kept them in qt a minimum of 30 days. I did not qt my corals, only dipped them. I had gotten a rock with bubble rose anemones, that i didnt dip due to the size of rock and fear of damaging the colony. Within a week of putting it in my display i had an outbreak. Started with the clowns then a slight infection on both the yellow and mimic tang. The clown tang was the first to die followed by all 4 clowns. I ran the polylab as an aid and as of now it appears to have done its job.PolypLab Medic peroxide salts works in temporarily treating your fish and lowering ich population; however it won’t eradicate ich.
The only way to eradicate ich is to copper or hypo treat all your fish, and leave your tank fallow for 6-8 weeks (coral and inverts can stay in the tank).
Then, moving forward, quarantine everything that goes in your tank (ie fish, coral, inverts, rock etc.). Even a small frag can introduce ich to your system.
Unless you’re done adding stuff to your tank and willing to go fallow, I would just soak your food in Selcon and garlic and let your fish build a tolerance to ich. Quarantining new fish is not so hard, but quarantining everything takes some real discipline that many people don’t have, including me.
You could setup the UV like this until you figure out if you want to go permanent or not.Yes ive read that and many other articles on treatment. My issue is i have a 180 gallon display that has 2 large epoxyed rocks. They were assembled from smaller pieces of dryrock. Theres no way to catch and remove all my fish. This is why i asked about the quarantine of new fish. I have quarantined ecery fish in my system but recently after adding a rock with a coral colony on it i had an ich breakout. I lost a couple clowns to it. My tangs pulled through with only getting a few spots. One has kept scratching the sand bed though. I did run the polylab medic treatment for 30 days. I am also looking at getting a uv sterilizer. Only thing is i have to decide how im plumbing it.
Another +1 to this. I’ve tried it in the past, didn’t help. I overdosed significantly every day but I was very unscientific about my approach, admittedly.Polyplab Medic is thought to be peroxide salts, so it works the same way as H202 would. In reef safe doses it may reduce parasite numbers but it won't eliminate them.