I just started doing that. I added an X4 which has 2 probe ports and monitor ORP and pH.
If you click at a point on the graph it gives you the value at that time.
Hydros Owners: how happy are you long term?
If you click at a point on the graph it gives you the value at that time.
fragit
2500 Club Member
So your happy with the hydros?I just started doing that. I added an X4 which has 2 probe ports and monitor ORP and pH.
If you click at a point on the graph it gives you the value at that time.
Yes I am.
Joe31415
Valuable Member
I found a workaround for this. I have the Drive port controlling a 12VDC relay and then the Tunze pump, along with it's own power supply being turned on and off by the load side of relay. I've only tested it with a bunch of jumper wires, a breadboard and a random relay I had laying around, but it appeared to work. At least insofar as I could set it up as an output and turn it on and off via hydros. It was just a proof of concept, but I see no reason why it won't work.
I need to stop at Autozone and grab a car relay. Both since it'll have spade connectors (and possibly a prewired holder) instead of pins and also because it'll likely be watertight/potted since it's meant to be under the hood of a car.
Funny thing is, the relay will probably be about 10 bucks. Add to that any spare parts I need and my time and I probably should have just picked up the AutoAqua that Coralvue sells with their Hydros ATO kit since it already has the 2 pin GX12 connector on it, specifically for plugging it into the drive port.
I am working toward building a DIY kalk dosing system. I expect I will shamelessly copy tour method.You can use a BRS doing pump on the XP8 outlets. I don't use kalkwasser but below are screenshots of my All For Reef dosing pump setup and schedule setup for it. Also is a log for that output. You input the daily dose you want and then how many doses during the day. This one is also setup for dynamic dosing so the dose is dependent on the pH reading. You don't have to use dynamic dosing but you could for that. I was testing the dynamic dosing and so I have the minimum and maximum close so I don't go too far. All For Reef doesn't not change the pH that much anyway. Not quickly anyway. The output the dosing pump is connected to is set in Output Device. This is not a Hydros pump but it is a 12v pump that is connected to a drive port. I did have to make my own cable to hook it to the port. At the time the Hydros dosing pump or the XP8 were not available.
I have a question though. Why do you have an override based on your ATO in this and what is the override an input for? Is it the RODI reservoir level like my ATO Go.
It occurs to me I could automate that as well and have the reservoir fill itself now.
n2585722
2500 Club Member
The All For Reef Dosing pump uses the same tubing as the ATO to the tank. The tank is 35ft away form the pumps. I did not want the All For Reef to continue to dose if the ATO was not allowed to run to help carry the dose into the tank with the next top off after the dose. The ATO OK stops the top off for a number of reasons. The settings are in the screenshots below. The RODI leak sensor is in the same location as the pumps in the garage. The ATO will not run if the return pump is off for any reason also. That is set in the depends on setting on this output.
I see.The All For Reef Dosing pump uses the same tubing as the ATO to the tank. The tank is 35ft away form the pumps. I did not want the All For Reef to continue to dose if the ATO was not allowed to run to help carry the dose into the tank with the next top off after the dose. The ATO OK stops the top off for a number of reasons. The settings are in the screenshots below. The RODI leak sensor is in the same location as the pumps in the garage. The ATO will not run if the return pump is off for any reason also. That is set in the depends on setting on this output.
Thanks
FishyFishFish
Valuable Member
Is there a ‘proper’ way to raise a ticket?
The only thing I could find was the contact form on their web page. I sent a message days ago and haven’t even had a response.
I’m close to taking this system down and replacing it with something else.
n2585722
2500 Club Member
Here is a link https://support.coralvue.com/submit_ticket
FishyFishFish
Valuable Member
Thanks very much.
I must be special
I have opened 2 tickets on my Hydros. One in February and one in October last year. In both cases they got back to me in 2 hours.
I have opened 2 tickets on my Hydros. One in February and one in October last year. In both cases they got back to me in 2 hours.
FishyFishFish
Valuable Member
So after using the correct form, I had a few back and forth messages to try to isolate my issue. I ended up moving the power strip around to see if the signal was being blocked by anything.
With the strip about 2 or 3 feet from my router, everything is fine. The further from there that I move it away from the router the worse it gets, and if I put it in another room than the one that the router is in then it struggles to stay connected.
So the outcome is, that it appears to be a signal strength issue, which means that the power strip is effectively unusable in my environment, which is a shame. I see someone else is selling a Control 4 in the classifieds at the moment, who has also had power strip connection problems.
With the strip about 2 or 3 feet from my router, everything is fine. The further from there that I move it away from the router the worse it gets, and if I put it in another room than the one that the router is in then it struggles to stay connected.
So the outcome is, that it appears to be a signal strength issue, which means that the power strip is effectively unusable in my environment, which is a shame. I see someone else is selling a Control 4 in the classifieds at the moment, who has also had power strip connection problems.
n2585722
2500 Club Member
Do you just have the one power strip? It could be an issue with the power strip. I think they are only around $40 to get one to see if it will work. I have one over 40ft away form the router without any issues.
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Joe31415
Valuable Member
TLDR sorry for the rant. I just seem to get more and more annoyed every time I attempt to work with this.
Can someone walk me through getting the 0-10v input (on the WaveEngine LE) to work.
I can get a button press to trigger a mode, but there doesn't seem to be a way to make it so that pressing the same button will kick the hydros back out of that mode. For example, I might want to put it into feed mode to shut off the pumps (for something other than feeding, for example) and then a minute later I want to put it back into normal mode.
First I went to Options and set Mode Control Input to Hydros Wave Engine 0-10v Input 1. Then in Feed mode I set it to watch for 5v and an exit delay of 20 minutes. I could use the button to start Feed Mode, but the button doesn't work to kick it back out.
Next I tried creating an input, set it up for 0-10v input, set it to button, told it where the input would be coming from as well as the voltage range to watch for. I set the event duration to 20 minutes and "On Second Press" I set to "end event".
That doesn't do anything...in fact, I'm not even sure what it's supposed to do. So far as I can tell there's no way to actually use that input for anything. There's no option in the input menu to tell it what to control, and the "depends on" menu in the outputs doesn't list it as an option.
The closest I could get is setting up a virtual/false output (0-10v input, button, event duration 14h, second press 'end event') then using that output for the "depends on" menu in the output I want to control. It would turn off the output, but immediately turn it back on.
My only guess is that I could turn mode control back on, trigger feed mode based on the button, but then also use another button, with a resistor to change the voltage, back to the same input and use that voltage to trigger Normal mode.
But this is becoming so overly complicated, for no good reason that I can see, that's it's quickly becoming waste of time and money. I've promised myself I'm not throwing any more money at this thing for now.
It seems to me it shouldn't be all that difficult to go into the settings for a mode or an output and say 'if Button is pushed (ie pin 1 shorted to pin 3), toggle device on/off'. I can see having to define the button as an input, along with some settings, but that's it. Trying to set up "false inputs" and creating dependencies based on them seems like an odd workaround. Similarly, I don't understand why you can only have modes tied to [various voltages coming in from] one input. That is, why can't Feed mode be triggered by input 1 and Normal mode be triggered by input 2. By using different voltages, now I have to get resisters involved. And with that, why controlling a mode with the 0-10v input is set up entirely different than controlling other things based on 0-10v input. In other words, why is it that when I want to control an output based on that, I have to set up an input to watch for the button, but if I want to control a mode based on it, I have to turn on a setting buried in the options menu (which most people aren't going to look at after the inital set up of the unit), and then choose the voltage within the mode itself.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but this is insanely over complicated for something that seems like it should be so simple. I've spent so much time playing with this, reading forum posts (here and on the coralvue/hydros board), reading online manuals that are either incorrect and lacking necessary detail, just staring at the app trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong etc.
I regret not returning it to BRS after I spent hours trying to get the wifi power strips to connect when I first got it.
What really ticks me off is how much I've spent on this project and how little it actually does for me.
And BTW, why do all the inputs have to be graphs or tiles. Temperature is nice as a graph, but to have that as a graph requires the water level input and button input to also be graphs. Is there some reason why I can't have the temperature plotted over time, but the water level and button status just some text (wet/dry, on/off)?
Can someone walk me through getting the 0-10v input (on the WaveEngine LE) to work.
I can get a button press to trigger a mode, but there doesn't seem to be a way to make it so that pressing the same button will kick the hydros back out of that mode. For example, I might want to put it into feed mode to shut off the pumps (for something other than feeding, for example) and then a minute later I want to put it back into normal mode.
First I went to Options and set Mode Control Input to Hydros Wave Engine 0-10v Input 1. Then in Feed mode I set it to watch for 5v and an exit delay of 20 minutes. I could use the button to start Feed Mode, but the button doesn't work to kick it back out.
Next I tried creating an input, set it up for 0-10v input, set it to button, told it where the input would be coming from as well as the voltage range to watch for. I set the event duration to 20 minutes and "On Second Press" I set to "end event".
That doesn't do anything...in fact, I'm not even sure what it's supposed to do. So far as I can tell there's no way to actually use that input for anything. There's no option in the input menu to tell it what to control, and the "depends on" menu in the outputs doesn't list it as an option.
The closest I could get is setting up a virtual/false output (0-10v input, button, event duration 14h, second press 'end event') then using that output for the "depends on" menu in the output I want to control. It would turn off the output, but immediately turn it back on.
My only guess is that I could turn mode control back on, trigger feed mode based on the button, but then also use another button, with a resistor to change the voltage, back to the same input and use that voltage to trigger Normal mode.
But this is becoming so overly complicated, for no good reason that I can see, that's it's quickly becoming waste of time and money. I've promised myself I'm not throwing any more money at this thing for now.
It seems to me it shouldn't be all that difficult to go into the settings for a mode or an output and say 'if Button is pushed (ie pin 1 shorted to pin 3), toggle device on/off'. I can see having to define the button as an input, along with some settings, but that's it. Trying to set up "false inputs" and creating dependencies based on them seems like an odd workaround. Similarly, I don't understand why you can only have modes tied to [various voltages coming in from] one input. That is, why can't Feed mode be triggered by input 1 and Normal mode be triggered by input 2. By using different voltages, now I have to get resisters involved. And with that, why controlling a mode with the 0-10v input is set up entirely different than controlling other things based on 0-10v input. In other words, why is it that when I want to control an output based on that, I have to set up an input to watch for the button, but if I want to control a mode based on it, I have to turn on a setting buried in the options menu (which most people aren't going to look at after the inital set up of the unit), and then choose the voltage within the mode itself.
Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but this is insanely over complicated for something that seems like it should be so simple. I've spent so much time playing with this, reading forum posts (here and on the coralvue/hydros board), reading online manuals that are either incorrect and lacking necessary detail, just staring at the app trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong etc.
I regret not returning it to BRS after I spent hours trying to get the wifi power strips to connect when I first got it.
What really ticks me off is how much I've spent on this project and how little it actually does for me.
And BTW, why do all the inputs have to be graphs or tiles. Temperature is nice as a graph, but to have that as a graph requires the water level input and button input to also be graphs. Is there some reason why I can't have the temperature plotted over time, but the water level and button status just some text (wet/dry, on/off)?
n2585722
2500 Club Member
Sorry, I have never tried to control a mode with a input. The only mode I use is one that turns off the skimmer for 4 hours. I just click on it in the app to trigger it. You might want to ask this on the Hydros forum here https://forum.coralvuehydros.com/ .
n2585722
2500 Club Member
I just checked and the exit delay function may be your issue. This is from the online manual here https://www.coralvuehydros.com/product-support/hydros-waveengine/create-a-mode/ .
"EXIT DELAY – This specifies how long past the mode timeout, the mode will remain active. This feature will only apply if the mode becomes active using the “MODE CONTROL INPUT” feature."
"EXIT DELAY – This specifies how long past the mode timeout, the mode will remain active. This feature will only apply if the mode becomes active using the “MODE CONTROL INPUT” feature."
FishyFishFish
Valuable Member
Coralvue has replaced my power strip. It will be interesting to see if this makes any difference. I am not convinced, but I am willing to give it a fair chance, to see if I can reduce the number of ‘not responding’ notifications.
n2585722
2500 Club Member
That will at least eliminate the power strip as the issue one way or another. The controller itself does not appear to have the issue or you would be getting alerts for it also. I think it is not a direct communication between the controller and power strips. They go through the router to communicate with each other.
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