I’m deciding which UV Steralizer is right for me

Jekyl

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Plenty of tanks, mine included have gotten by just fine without having one. IMO I don't understand the reason to have one.
 

Waters

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Thanks, checked mine (2 yo) last night and no sign of light bleeding through.
Asked my LFS who was not aware with the issue with that brand but was with other brands which have failed.

Looks like replacing the main body will need to become a scheduled task every few years.
Definitely worth keeping an eye on. Mine never had light bleeding through either. I didn't notice anything until I saw water pooling on the floor beneath it.......the body itself didn't fail though. Mine failed where the pentair connections met the main body.
 

Tamberav

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Do you guys think the 15 watt aqua ultraviolet steralizer would be good for the 55 gallon tank? Is that too much or too little? From what I’ve heard it’s the only steralizer I haven’t heard anyone say any problems about.

Aqua UV says 90,000 um/cm2 but this is for freshwater ich (Boo) so let’s go with pentairs 180,000 um/cm2.

Aqua UV recommends 400gph for 90,000 for freshwater ich, so we need to slow it down. 180,000/90,000 = 2 so simply 400gph/2 = 200gph.

So you need to run your UV at 200gph. That would turn over a 55g 3.6 times an hour at Pentairs recommendations.

That’s all based on if you trust them but no one seems to agree on what is needed to sterilize saltwater ich. There doesn’t seem to be much research in that area.
 
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Tamberav

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I’ve been looking at UV Steralizers and I am mostly stuck between 3. I have a 55 gallon tank and I’m looking for a steralizer that doesn’t only help with algae, but also kills parasites, more specifically ich. I am not looking to spend anywhere over $200. I was wondering what the main differences are between the green killing machine, the corallife turbo twist steralizer, and an aqua ultraviolet one. Which would be the best for me and what’s the actual differences other then price.

As far as specifically killing saltwater ich.

It doesn’t seem anyone has landed on the exact number for killing saltwater ich other then it is clearly it needs more then freshwater.

There hasn’t been a ton of research on it.

“Use of ultraviolet (UV) sterilization to kill theronts has been suggested, based on research involving Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (freshwater “ich”). The recommended UV dose for Ichthyophthirius theronts is 100,000 μWsec/ cm2 (Hoffman 1974). However, UV doses required for Cryptocaryon irritans are anecdotal or extrapolated, and range from 280,000 μWsec/cm2 (industry numbers) to 800,000 μWsec/cm2 (Colorni and Burgess 1997).”



So basically suggestions on which UV should be taken with a grain of since there is no agreement on what is needed to kill saltwater ich other then it is a dose larger then freshwater.

Doing the math to get a hopeful idea is probably best before purchase as it will at least tell if the UV you are buying is useless and lacks power and is more suitable for freshwater ich.
 
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Viking_Reefing

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From talking to one of Europe’s largest importers of saltwater livestock who is also a manufacturer of uv units, in conjunction with my own research aiming for a high enough number of uWs/cm2 to actually kill marine ich isn’t really achievable…or at least not practical. It seems to be right around 340.000 uWs/cm2 which for example would mean that I could only run 750L/h through my 110w unit. Perhaps not a problem in itself but you also want to factor in that you want at least a 2,5-3x tank turnover every hour to make sure you hit a high volume of the total parasites.

Sterilization it probably where it’s at and that number is right around what pentair recommends: 180.000 uWs/cm2.
Knowing that and that you want to have around a 3x tank turnover an hour you can easily calculate if a unit is appropriate for your tank :)
 

brandon429

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I would never, ever ever own a large reef without one of these plumbed in and ready even if not ran 24x7

Enjoyed reading about brand options here, I've been recommending the cheap jebao ones just so invasion thread entrants could score something to burn with, enjoyed seeing the better quality options listed here

If I had a large reef a UV would be for invasion assistance...disease help wouldn't factor to me


I'd let any disease helps be a side benefit of running a very oversized one on any big tank i owned which was in use in case dinos ever tried to express. For disease help I would be using Jay's protocols
 

gbroadbridge

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From talking to one of Europe’s largest importers of saltwater livestock who is also a manufacturer of uv units, in conjunction with my own research aiming for a high enough number of uWs/cm2 to actually kill marine ich isn’t really achievable…or at least not practical. It seems to be right around 340.000 uWs/cm2 which for example would mean that I could only run 750L/h through my 110w unit. Perhaps not a problem in itself but you also want to factor in that you want at least a 2,5-3x tank turnover every hour to make sure you hit a high volume of the total parasites.

Sterilization it probably where it’s at and that number is right around what pentair recommends: 180.000 uWs/cm2.
Knowing that and that you want to have around a 3x tank turnover an hour you can easily calculate if a unit is appropriate for your tank :)
I believe Pentair recommend 280,000 uWs/cm2 exposure for control of Cryptocaryon Irritans (Marine Ich).

Smart-UV-Spec-Table1.png


That's the level used in Aquaculture systems I'm familiar with. They also implement Ozone.
 

Viking_Reefing

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I believe Pentair recommend 280,000 uWs/cm2 exposure for control of Cryptocaryon Irritans (Marine Ich).

Smart-UV-Spec-Table1.png


That's the level used in Aquaculture systems I'm familiar with. They also implement Ozone.
Huh, strange. This is what I find on BRS on the pentair products:
1674714703885.png

280k will definitely be a lot better and have more sterilizing properties (perhaps will even be enough to kill some?) but probably not feasible for a hobbyist. I believe the 180.000 uWs/cm2 is a recommendation based on what’s possible to implement in practice whilst still having a “therapeutic” effect.
180k is still not achieved by most people whilst also having the proposer tank turnover through the unit. For example my 110w unit is still undersized for my 1000L DT and 450L sump since I haven’t found a good way to mount two of those in a series.
 

gbroadbridge

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Huh, strange. This is what I find on BRS on the pentair products:
1674714703885.png

280k will definitely be a lot better and have more sterilizing properties (perhaps will even be enough to kill some?) but probably not feasible for a hobbyist. I believe the 180.000 uWs/cm2 is a recommendation based on what’s possible to implement in practice whilst still having a “therapeutic” effect.
180k is still not achieved by most people whilst also having the proposer tank turnover through the unit. For example my 110w unit is still undersized for my 1000L DT and 450L sump since I haven’t found a good way to mount two of those in a series.

Well not really, BRS are being a bit 'tricky' by simply referring to generic protozoa, some of which (like freshwater Ich) are treated at 180,000uWs/cm2.

The site I'm quoting provides information to commercial aquaculture users who require more reliable treatment for Marine Ich in holding tanks.

I certainly run my 40W Pentair on my 75gal display based on those commercial recommendations, with a flow of 120gph.
 

dmsc2fs

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You should also include the Lifegard Aquatics QL 15 Watts filter in your options. It is a great piece that will work equally or better than the other options. If you every are considering upgrading your tank in the future you may wish to look at This. It is above your price range but it has a replaceable sleeve to protect the outside housing from UV. See the pentair discussion above about that. Moving up to the pro-max model puts you into the repair and service version of equipment vice use and dispose.
 

theMeat

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Whilst sharing info and knowledge is a large part of what makes this site great, and all this talk about uWs/cm2, and big words like Cryptocaryon Irritans sound very smart and scientific… let’s not forget that a uv of any brand or any exposure rate is not 100%. Since uv doesn’t kill, it sterilizes, and it only sterilizes what actually makes it through the uv unit.
 

crusso1993

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I’ve been looking at UV Steralizers and I am mostly stuck between 3. I have a 55 gallon tank and I’m looking for a steralizer that doesn’t only help with algae, but also kills parasites, more specifically ich. I am not looking to spend anywhere over $200. I was wondering what the main differences are between the green killing machine, the corallife turbo twist steralizer, and an aqua ultraviolet one. Which would be the best for me and what’s the actual differences other then price.

I have used, recommended and known many other reefers that have had nothing but great results from the product and company contained in the link below. There is also a plethora of info on their webpages that will hopefully answer any questions you may have. I realize they only carry one unit that squeaks by under your spending limit of $200. However, IMHO, it’s definitely worth the little bit of extra cash you’ll spend.

 

South Carolina reef

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Do you guys think the 15 watt aqua ultraviolet steralizer would be good for the 55 gallon tank? Is that too much or too little? From what I’ve heard it’s the only steralizer I haven’t heard anyone say any problems about.
I installed that exact one a month ago. Did my research on many models. Pentair had a bunch of quality challenges and seemed to be much bigger and more of a commercial option. I run mine 24x7 right from my return pump. Water is crystal clear. It doesn't help much with cyano at this point however I was more interested in water clarity. I can adjust my pump speed if I feel the need or am concerned about ich. IMHO. The benefits of sterilization of all the water are worth the 300.00 bucks.
 

South Carolina reef

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As far as specifically killing saltwater ich.

It doesn’t seem anyone has landed on the exact number for killing saltwater ich other then it is clearly it needs more then freshwater.

There hasn’t been a ton of research on it.

“Use of ultraviolet (UV) sterilization to kill theronts has been suggested, based on research involving Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (freshwater “ich”). The recommended UV dose for Ichthyophthirius theronts is 100,000 μWsec/ cm2 (Hoffman 1974). However, UV doses required for Cryptocaryon irritans are anecdotal or extrapolated, and range from 280,000 μWsec/cm2 (industry numbers) to 800,000 μWsec/cm2 (Colorni and Burgess 1997).”



So basically suggestions on which UV should be taken with a grain of since there is no agreement on what is needed to kill saltwater ich other then it is a dose larger then freshwater.

Doing the math to get a hopeful idea is probably best before purchase as it will at least tell if the UV you are buying is useless and lacks power and is more suitable for freshwater ich.
Uv isn't meant to "kill" ich. I believe it steralizes them once in the water column and thus will greatly reduce the chances of infestation.
 

Tamberav

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Uv isn't meant to "kill" ich. I believe it steralizes them once in the water column and thus will greatly reduce the chances of infestation.
yes, I meant sterilize. ty
 

josvanmeer

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Uv isn't meant to "kill" ich. I believe it steralizes them once in the water column and thus will greatly reduce the chances of infestation.
the right UV Sterilizer setup will 100% get rid of something trivial like ich. My tank is a breathing example of complete ich eradication even though I was completely skeptical at first before I caved in and set it up.

I have a 150gal display tank and my fish were suffering. I bought the 40w Pentair unit. The thing is a huge monster. Set it up on a closed loop, fed from a return pump in the display tank, to the sterilizer and coming out into the tank. Not in the sump, not through a bypass valve on the return pump in the sump. Dedicated in and out flow. Dialed it in to what the recommended flow should be for killing parasites. Week after week I saw the ich parasites disappear from my fish. The blue tang being the most evident of examples. I was ecstatic when they were all gone after like 2 or 3 months. Its been over a year now and they have never come back. Im on my second bulb now. I will never not run my reeftank without this UV sterilizer running.

Size and setup matters however and this is where most people go wrong.

You cannot guarantee a good result if you set it up any other way besides closed loop. You need complete turnover from your whole display tank.
 

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