I BEAT DINOS!!! You can too... Heres how to do it.

[Jeeperz]

This thread is great. Basically broke down the huge 300+ page thread on Dino's to what seemed to work for a lot of people. I did read that huge dino thread but was 100% confused afterwards. I will try this method as best I can in my 20aio. Although the only uv I can find to fit is the gkm 9 watt. I do have 2 of these though, maybe I could stuff both in the tank somehow

 

[rcillig]

I was told I'm wrong but I still think I know one thing for sure when my dinos showed up exactly and why I had two 2 AI Prime HD's on goosenecks, one got loose and slipped into the water and short-circuited... it was only in a few sec's I think but she was toasted. So I needed new lights and switched to OceanRevive's x2 and within a day I had a full outbreak of dinos. It was a cross between low nutrients and light that were too strong. I was still getting to know the Revives and they were set way too high for a 10in deep tank. Then like an ****** I cross comminated my other tank buy moving my scrapper between tanks without cleaning it. Live and learn...

 

[Dj City]

Then like an ****** I cross comminated my other tank buy moving my scrapper between tanks without cleaning it.

I have done that.
You are right. "Live and learn"

 

[FastandCurious]

I posted this in the Dino thread but wanted to create a thread of my own detailing exactly what I did to defeat this scourge.

I BEAT DINOS!!!

It was not especially hard to do but I did need the right equipment and a multi pronged approach.

3 day blackouts
Diatomaceous earth filter (optional but recommended)
Dr Tim's Dino recipe (Dr Tim's Dr Tim's Refresh / Dr. Tim's Waste Away)
Dr Tim's waste away gel (Optional but recommended)

The regiment looks like this:

3 day blackout with U.V. (while aggressively blowing off rock and aggressively turning and disturbing the sandbed)
•
Employ Diatom Filters (Optional)
.
Beneficial bacteria dosing
•
3 day blackout with Dr Tim's Refresh (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away liquid (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away Gel
•
Redeployment of U.V.

1st thing was a PROPERLY SIZED, PROPERLY PLUMBED UV Sterilizer with the CORRECT flow.
I can not stress this enough.
You absolutely NEED to have all 3 of the requirements for a UV Sterilizer met in order for it to work.
I have a 180 gallon display and I use a Pentair aquatics smart UV 40w. UV Sterilizer. I use a Jeabo DCP 15000 pump to run it with 1 inch plumbing. Anything smaller than 1 inch plumbing WILL NOT WORK because you will NOT get the needed flow through the UV.
Here is the flow chart...

Put the pump IN THE DISPLAY on the sand bed or no more than 1 inch above the sand bed. Have the UV in a closed loop within the display both pulling from the display and dumping treated water back to the display.
It should look something like this. (Don't mind the mess. Pay attention to the set up of the UV)

3 day total blackout while using UV.
I have the feed pump in the tank and the return in the tank creating a closed loop. Pump is a Jeabo DCP15000. Pump is about a 1/2 inch above the sandbed. PVC pipe goes from pump to top of tank (about 25 inches) through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" and down about 6ft. to the UV.
The UV is laying horizontally on the floor in front of the tank. Water goes through the UV then back up about 6ft of PVC pipe then through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" to return water to the tank.
I am flowing 1019 gph through the UV according to apex flow meter. The UV calls for between 943 - 1574 gph to deal with algae, bacteria and dinos.
I use a Tunze 6105 on full blast to blow the rocks, sand and all surfaces. I put the pump right up to the rocks and make the biggest mess I can getting everything in the water column so it can go through the UV.

I have 4 Marineland Magnum polishing internal filters. Each rated for up to 97 gal tank / 290 gph. These filters will run Diatomaceous earth powder to mechanically filter dinos out.


Immediately after the 3 day blackout...
Deploy Diatom filters while continuing to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
If not using Diatom filter, simply continue to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
Do this for 3 days using normal light schedule.

After the 3 day period
Start Dr. Tim's Dino treatment which consists of another 3 day blackout while using Dr. Tim's Refresh then using Dr. Tim's waste Away. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS and complete the entire regiment.

Once complete with Dr. Tim's dino regiment...
Do the whole thing over again just to make sure you have knocked them OUT!


This is what I was dealing with and what I defeated.

This stuff was EVERYWHERE and was killing corals. It was much worse than what you see in these pics.

Now the tank looks like this...

A few months later...

The UV is still in operation and still getting the correct flow but there was no way to plumb it the way I would have liked so I ended up with this.

It's still effective but not nearly as effective as having the closed loop from display to display.

I am happy to report that I am STILL Dino FREE!!!!

Just so you know, this is not my 1st fight with dinos. Last battle I had was a 5 year battle on my old 110 gallon reef. DInos won.

The war I lost...
I raised nitrates and phosphates. (No good)
I used UV but did not know I was using it improperly. (No good)
Blackouts (knock them back but not good enough on its own)
Vibrant dosing. (No good)
MB7 dosing. (No good)
Peroxide dosing. (No good)
Silicate dosing. (No good)
Stupidly high flow. (No good)
Low flow. (No good)
No flow. (No good)
Sea cucumbers. (No good)
Sand sifters. (No good)
Leaving sand alone. (No good)
Surface siphoning sandbed. (No good)
Deep and aggressively disturbing sandbed with heavy mechanical filtration using 5 micron socks changed every day. (Better but no good)
Feeding tank. (No good)
Starving tank. (No good)
Increase pods. (No good)
Beefed up fuge chaeto. (No good)
Removing fuge chaeto. (No good)
Shorten light schedule. (No good)
Decrease light intensity. (No good)
Increase light intensity. (No good)
Change light fixtures. (No good)
Sacred Indian dino dance. (No good)
9mm. (No good)
.45 ACP. (No good)
12ga. (No good)
Photon torpedo straight from the Starship Enterprise. (No good)

People have tried to balance out their tank by introducing other things like diatoms or other pest algae. The problem is, once your tank has dinos, That is your new balance.

You HAVE to get dinos under control first in order to achieve the balance you are looking for.
Adding silicate will not get you where you are trying to go.
You wind up having additional problems to deal with and fight while still trying to fight the dinos. You end up knocking your tank Further out of balance.

Check out my build thread for more detail on the fight against dinos.

Good luck in YOUR fight against these prehistoric monsters!

I am very shocked to hear the sacred Indian Dino dance did not work. It worked for me ‍

 

[Futuretotm]

Thank you for taking the time to post this, yes the other thread is long and full of advice, but it is nice to have a summary.

@revhtree Would it be possible to have articles that summarize treatment for ich/dino/cyano etc contributed by folks who are experienced, it would be a great help to beginners (with a "big warning this is not the final word" at the beginning as there will be folks who disagree with anything and everything)

 

[smallfry]

I posted this in the Dino thread but wanted to create a thread of my own detailing exactly what I did to defeat this scourge.

I BEAT DINOS!!!

It was not especially hard to do but I did need the right equipment and a multi pronged approach.

3 day blackouts
Diatomaceous earth filter (optional but recommended)
Dr Tim's Dino recipe (Dr Tim's Dr Tim's Refresh / Dr. Tim's Waste Away)
Dr Tim's waste away gel (Optional but recommended)

The regiment looks like this:

3 day blackout with U.V. (while aggressively blowing off rock and aggressively turning and disturbing the sandbed)
•
Employ Diatom Filters (Optional)
.
Beneficial bacteria dosing
•
3 day blackout with Dr Tim's Refresh (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away liquid (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away Gel
•
Redeployment of U.V.

1st thing was a PROPERLY SIZED, PROPERLY PLUMBED UV Sterilizer with the CORRECT flow.
I can not stress this enough.
You absolutely NEED to have all 3 of the requirements for a UV Sterilizer met in order for it to work.
I have a 180 gallon display and I use a Pentair aquatics smart UV 40w. UV Sterilizer. I use a Jeabo DCP 15000 pump to run it with 1 inch plumbing. Anything smaller than 1 inch plumbing WILL NOT WORK because you will NOT get the needed flow through the UV.
Here is the flow chart...

Put the pump IN THE DISPLAY on the sand bed or no more than 1 inch above the sand bed. Have the UV in a closed loop within the display both pulling from the display and dumping treated water back to the display.
It should look something like this. (Don't mind the mess. Pay attention to the set up of the UV)

3 day total blackout while using UV.
I have the feed pump in the tank and the return in the tank creating a closed loop. Pump is a Jeabo DCP15000. Pump is about a 1/2 inch above the sandbed. PVC pipe goes from pump to top of tank (about 25 inches) through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" and down about 6ft. to the UV.
The UV is laying horizontally on the floor in front of the tank. Water goes through the UV then back up about 6ft of PVC pipe then through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" to return water to the tank.
I am flowing 1019 gph through the UV according to apex flow meter. The UV calls for between 943 - 1574 gph to deal with algae, bacteria and dinos.
I use a Tunze 6105 on full blast to blow the rocks, sand and all surfaces. I put the pump right up to the rocks and make the biggest mess I can getting everything in the water column so it can go through the UV.

I have 4 Marineland Magnum polishing internal filters. Each rated for up to 97 gal tank / 290 gph. These filters will run Diatomaceous earth powder to mechanically filter dinos out.


Immediately after the 3 day blackout...
Deploy Diatom filters while continuing to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
If not using Diatom filter, simply continue to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
Do this for 3 days using normal light schedule.

After the 3 day period
Start Dr. Tim's Dino treatment which consists of another 3 day blackout while using Dr. Tim's Refresh then using Dr. Tim's waste Away. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS and complete the entire regiment.

Once complete with Dr. Tim's dino regiment...
Do the whole thing over again just to make sure you have knocked them OUT!


This is what I was dealing with and what I defeated.

This stuff was EVERYWHERE and was killing corals. It was much worse than what you see in these pics.

Now the tank looks like this...

A few months later...

The UV is still in operation and still getting the correct flow but there was no way to plumb it the way I would have liked so I ended up with this.

It's still effective but not nearly as effective as having the closed loop from display to display.

I am happy to report that I am STILL Dino FREE!!!!

Just so you know, this is not my 1st fight with dinos. Last battle I had was a 5 year battle on my old 110 gallon reef. DInos won.

The war I lost...
I raised nitrates and phosphates. (No good)
I used UV but did not know I was using it improperly. (No good)
Blackouts (knock them back but not good enough on its own)
Vibrant dosing. (No good)
MB7 dosing. (No good)
Peroxide dosing. (No good)
Silicate dosing. (No good)
Stupidly high flow. (No good)
Low flow. (No good)
No flow. (No good)
Sea cucumbers. (No good)
Sand sifters. (No good)
Leaving sand alone. (No good)
Surface siphoning sandbed. (No good)
Deep and aggressively disturbing sandbed with heavy mechanical filtration using 5 micron socks changed every day. (Better but no good)
Feeding tank. (No good)
Starving tank. (No good)
Increase pods. (No good)
Beefed up fuge chaeto. (No good)
Removing fuge chaeto. (No good)
Shorten light schedule. (No good)
Decrease light intensity. (No good)
Increase light intensity. (No good)
Change light fixtures. (No good)
Sacred Indian dino dance. (No good)
9mm. (No good)
.45 ACP. (No good)
12ga. (No good)
Photon torpedo straight from the Starship Enterprise. (No good)

People have tried to balance out their tank by introducing other things like diatoms or other pest algae. The problem is, once your tank has dinos, That is your new balance.

You HAVE to get dinos under control first in order to achieve the balance you are looking for.
Adding silicate will not get you where you are trying to go.
You wind up having additional problems to deal with and fight while still trying to fight the dinos. You end up knocking your tank Further out of balance.

Check out my build thread for more detail on the fight against dinos.

Good luck in YOUR fight against these prehistoric monsters!

I followed those same steps with the exception of the UV. I was too cheap to buy a UV unit, and this is a nano tank so I didn’t really have a good spot to put UV.

Instead I purchased a BRS media reactor kit (appx $80), converted the Sicce pump to be a dry pump, and then in the input line hooked up a 1” Python gravel cleaner. I then got some 1 micron 10” floss filters from amazon (10 pack for appx $15) and sucked up the dino’s every evening. The 1 micron filter is small enough to trap them. Then every evening I would remove the Python gravel vac and run the filter all night. I actually attached a plastic jar with holes drilled out as a guard on the intake line so fish didn’t get sucked to it overnight. Every afternoon I would remove the plastic guard and wash it in hot freshwater, and then repeat the process. That in combination with Dr Tim’s recipie knocked out my dino problem in 4 weeks. I also boosted my nutrients during that time (I bottomed out Nitrate and Phosphates for 2 months which allowed the Dino outbreak). After the Dinos were gone I ran into a small GHA issue which I quickly knocked out with Revive Reef Safe.

The most amazing part was the drilled out jar. I just used a plastic pods jar i had around from Algae Barn. The drilled holes ended up melting the plastic and i ended up with this very rough plastic burr around every drilled hole. To my surprise this is where the floating Dinos would collect over the evening when i ran the filter.

The TL;DR is that I am a new reefer whom solved a Dino outbreak in 4 weeks for under $100 of supplies.

 

[rantipole]

I'm about to start the second round of Dr. Tim's. So far, so good. I bought a tester snail last week and he's alive four days later. The dinos I had killed my entire CUC. I have a lot of algae to deal with once I get rid of the dinos, but that's doable. I'm just excited I may finally have this issue licked.

Cheers,
rant

 

[rantipole]

Sorry for the double post here.

When do you think I can take the UV off the tank for good? The pump takes up a lot of room in my little 13 gallon and looks ugly. I'd like to remove it, but I fear the return of the dinos. There has been no evidence of dinos for some time and I finished the second round of Dr.Tim's around February 3rd. The original snail is still alive and I've added three more this weekend that are all thriving so far.

Thanks!

Cheers,
rant

 

[Dj City]

Sorry for the double post here.

When do you think I can take the UV off the tank for good? The pump takes up a lot of room in my little 13 gallon and looks ugly. I'd like to remove it, but I fear the return of the dinos. There has been no evidence of dinos for some time and I finished the second round of Dr.Tim's around February 3rd. The original snail is still alive and I've added three more this weekend that are all thriving so far.

Thanks!

Cheers,
rant

I would keep the UV on permanently.
No need to remove it s it will continue to help with dinos.

If you truly have defeated dinos, switch the flow of the UV to help rid yourself of the algae.

 

[rantipole]

Thanks. I'll have to rig up the pump externally because it's just too big for my little tank.

I promised you beer/wine/cookies if I got rid of the dinos. Hit me up if you want to claim your thank-you gift!

Cheers,
rant

 

[Reef AquaCult]

@Dj City great post thanks. i read your post but in your method it looks like you did a total of 6 days of black out? Did your corals do ok? any die off during this period? do you know what species of dinos you had? thanks again! going to try this out, right now i have prorocentrum, pain in the butt.

 

[MexiReefer]

I posted this in the Dino thread but wanted to create a thread of my own detailing exactly what I did to defeat this scourge.

I BEAT DINOS!!!

It was not especially hard to do but I did need the right equipment and a multi pronged approach.

3 day blackouts
Diatomaceous earth filter (optional but recommended)
Dr Tim's Dino recipe (Dr Tim's Dr Tim's Refresh / Dr. Tim's Waste Away)
Dr Tim's waste away gel (Optional but recommended)

The regiment looks like this:

3 day blackout with U.V. (while aggressively blowing off rock and aggressively turning and disturbing the sandbed)
•
Employ Diatom Filters (Optional)
.
Beneficial bacteria dosing
•
3 day blackout with Dr Tim's Refresh (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away liquid (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away Gel
•
Redeployment of U.V.

1st thing was a PROPERLY SIZED, PROPERLY PLUMBED UV Sterilizer with the CORRECT flow.
I can not stress this enough.
You absolutely NEED to have all 3 of the requirements for a UV Sterilizer met in order for it to work.
I have a 180 gallon display and I use a Pentair aquatics smart UV 40w. UV Sterilizer. I use a Jeabo DCP 15000 pump to run it with 1 inch plumbing. Anything smaller than 1 inch plumbing WILL NOT WORK because you will NOT get the needed flow through the UV.
Here is the flow chart...

Put the pump IN THE DISPLAY on the sand bed or no more than 1 inch above the sand bed. Have the UV in a closed loop within the display both pulling from the display and dumping treated water back to the display.
It should look something like this. (Don't mind the mess. Pay attention to the set up of the UV)

3 day total blackout while using UV.
I have the feed pump in the tank and the return in the tank creating a closed loop. Pump is a Jeabo DCP15000. Pump is about a 1/2 inch above the sandbed. PVC pipe goes from pump to top of tank (about 25 inches) through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" and down about 6ft. to the UV.
The UV is laying horizontally on the floor in front of the tank. Water goes through the UV then back up about 6ft of PVC pipe then through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" to return water to the tank.
I am flowing 1019 gph through the UV according to apex flow meter. The UV calls for between 943 - 1574 gph to deal with algae, bacteria and dinos.
I use a Tunze 6105 on full blast to blow the rocks, sand and all surfaces. I put the pump right up to the rocks and make the biggest mess I can getting everything in the water column so it can go through the UV.

I have 4 Marineland Magnum polishing internal filters. Each rated for up to 97 gal tank / 290 gph. These filters will run Diatomaceous earth powder to mechanically filter dinos out.


Immediately after the 3 day blackout...
Deploy Diatom filters while continuing to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
If not using Diatom filter, simply continue to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
Do this for 3 days using normal light schedule.

After the 3 day period
Start Dr. Tim's Dino treatment which consists of another 3 day blackout while using Dr. Tim's Refresh then using Dr. Tim's waste Away. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS and complete the entire regiment.

Once complete with Dr. Tim's dino regiment...
Do the whole thing over again just to make sure you have knocked them OUT!


This is what I was dealing with and what I defeated.

This stuff was EVERYWHERE and was killing corals. It was much worse than what you see in these pics.

Now the tank looks like this...

A few months later...

The UV is still in operation and still getting the correct flow but there was no way to plumb it the way I would have liked so I ended up with this.

It's still effective but not nearly as effective as having the closed loop from display to display.

I am happy to report that I am STILL Dino FREE!!!!

Just so you know, this is not my 1st fight with dinos. Last battle I had was a 5 year battle on my old 110 gallon reef. DInos won.

The war I lost...
I raised nitrates and phosphates. (No good)
I used UV but did not know I was using it improperly. (No good)
Blackouts (knock them back but not good enough on its own)
Vibrant dosing. (No good)
MB7 dosing. (No good)
Peroxide dosing. (No good)
Silicate dosing. (No good)
Stupidly high flow. (No good)
Low flow. (No good)
No flow. (No good)
Sea cucumbers. (No good)
Sand sifters. (No good)
Leaving sand alone. (No good)
Surface siphoning sandbed. (No good)
Deep and aggressively disturbing sandbed with heavy mechanical filtration using 5 micron socks changed every day. (Better but no good)
Feeding tank. (No good)
Starving tank. (No good)
Increase pods. (No good)
Beefed up fuge chaeto. (No good)
Removing fuge chaeto. (No good)
Shorten light schedule. (No good)
Decrease light intensity. (No good)
Increase light intensity. (No good)
Change light fixtures. (No good)
Sacred Indian dino dance. (No good)
9mm. (No good)
.45 ACP. (No good)
12ga. (No good)
Photon torpedo straight from the Starship Enterprise. (No good)

People have tried to balance out their tank by introducing other things like diatoms or other pest algae. The problem is, once your tank has dinos, That is your new balance.

You HAVE to get dinos under control first in order to achieve the balance you are looking for.
Adding silicate will not get you where you are trying to go.
You wind up having additional problems to deal with and fight while still trying to fight the dinos. You end up knocking your tank Further out of balance.

Check out my build thread for more detail on the fight against dinos.

Good luck in YOUR fight against these prehistoric monsters!

I am actually in this fight and coincidentely have been over each item in the list, almost in the same order, and was planning to start the Sacred Indian Dino Dance next week with, but with full moon as adviced in toehr forums.

Most probably detpur and try plumbing and feeding correclty my UV.

Great great post. This should be underthe definitition of knowledge sharing in the wikireefpedia.

 

[Dj City]

@Dj City great post thanks. i read your post but in your method it looks like you did a total of 6 days of black out? Did your corals do ok? any die off during this period? do you know what species of dinos you had? thanks again! going to try this out, right now i have prorocentrum, pain in the butt.

I had Amphidinium.

I did 2 rounds of the Dr Tim's Dino treatment and yes, it wound up being 6 days of blackout.

Corals were fine!

There are tropical storms and hurricanes that last for more than 3 days in nature.
The corals will be just fine as long as they are not at deaths door before starting the blackouts.

 

[smallfry]

I followed those same steps with the exception of the UV. I was too cheap to buy a UV unit, and this is a nano tank so I didn’t really have a good spot to put UV.

Instead I purchased a BRS media reactor kit (appx $80), converted the Sicce pump to be a dry pump, and then in the input line hooked up a 1” Python gravel cleaner. I then got some 1 micron 10” floss filters from amazon (10 pack for appx $15) and sucked up the dino’s every evening. The 1 micron filter is small enough to trap them. Then every evening I would remove the Python gravel vac and run the filter all night. I actually attached a plastic jar with holes drilled out as a guard on the intake line so fish didn’t get sucked to it overnight. Every afternoon I would remove the plastic guard and wash it in hot freshwater, and then repeat the process. That in combination with Dr Tim’s recipie knocked out my dino problem in 4 weeks. I also boosted my nutrients during that time (I bottomed out Nitrate and Phosphates for 2 months which allowed the Dino outbreak). After the Dinos were gone I ran into a small GHA issue which I quickly knocked out with Revive Reef Safe.

The most amazing part was the drilled out jar. I just used a plastic pods jar i had around from Algae Barn. The drilled holes ended up melting the plastic and i ended up with this very rough plastic burr around every drilled hole. To my surprise this is where the floating Dinos would collect over the evening when i ran the filter.

The TL;DR is that I am a new reefer whom solved a Dino outbreak in 4 weeks for under $100 of supplies.

OK, all that advice above; well it worked, but temporarily. So don't trust any of it But the good news is that I did find a solution that worked AMAZING; yeah, its UV like everyone told me to get in the first place.

What happened is that my quick and cheap method of sucking Dinos up did work great but it was temporary. I ended up having the change the filter in this scrubber every couple of weeks (because I fed live Phytoplankton during the day, so I didn't want that sucked up by the 1 micron filter), so then anaerobic bacteria would start growing in the filter in the 12 hours it was off, and dump a stinky Sulpher smell into the tank when I turned the pump on). So bi-weekly maintenance was somewhat of an issue. Then after 5 week, I always thought i had the Dinos beat back far enough so I would take my gear down, and 2 weeks later the Dinos would come back with a vengeance. So last week when that happened I ordered the 8 Watt Aqua UV Sterilizers, some 1/2 hose and a Sicce 1.0 pump.

8 Watt Advantage 2000 UV Sterilizer with Hanger Spout - Aqua Ultraviolet - Bulk Reef Supply​

My Dinos were 99% gone after 24 hours with this baby up and running 24/7. after 48 hours, and a turkey baster job (to get the Dinos free floating) they are 100% gone from what I can see with my naked eye (I'm sure there is one out there lurking around waiting for me to turn off the UV). So now I have an ugly Sicce pump sitting inside my tank behind a rock, however I also have zero Dinos. SO at this point I'm considering this a huge win.

I'll leave the Pump and UV setup in the tank for 3 months running 24/7 and then probably leave it in the thank but turn it off for another month or so. If I don't see any problems at that point I'll probably pull it because it does look really ugly. I really owe this success to the videos #BulkReefSupply puts out. Without seeing Thomas's video on the UV unit and also hearing Ryan's personal story on how he was challenged with strange stuff in his tank (his solution was MicroBacter7) I probably wouldn't have gone this route.

Maybe now I can finally start enjoying the tank

 

[gbroadbridge]

I had ostreopsis in a nano 10g tank.

It was caused by me attempting to use carbon dosing to control nutrients, but went badly wrong due to the small tank volume.

The solution for me was to cease carbon dosing, coral feeding, water changes - anything that would feed the dino in the absence of N and P.

I introduced a ball of chaeto into the tank and hooked up a 9W UV with a dedicated pump in the tank and returning to the tank with about 3x tank volume flow rate.

Two weeks later was gone and has not returned.

I did not do a tank blackout, but did only run blue and violet on the Prime HD

Still running the UV although is now hooked into the normal tank return. Lighting is back to normal.