I could use some advice...

JoeSchmo45

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
72
Reaction score
133
Location
Tri-Cities
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello R2R!

I'm in the process of starting my second reef aquarium, a Reefer 170 (I had a Biocube before). I learned a lot from my first salty experience, and I've learned a lot from lurking many, many hours on the forum. I'm trying to come up with a plan for establishing this tank that will help me avoid some of the usual pitfalls. I'd like to run it by some of the experts out there and ask a couple of questions. I'd like to stock the tank with two clowns, a royal gramma, and a goby of some sort. I have so much to learn about corals, so my plan at this point is to wait quite a while before adding the easiest, hardiest corals I can possibly find. My goal throughout is to BE PATIENT.

I started the cycle two days ago with bacteria in a bottle and am using Dr. Tim's ammonia to feed it. The ammonia is at 2 ppm at this time and I'm going to test daily. I took an old 10 gallon tank and have set that up in a different room as a quarantine tank. I'm waiting on a small heater and I purchased a sponge filter with a couple extra sponges. My plan is to place one of the sponges in my sump to seed it during and after the cycle so I am able to use it in the quarantine tank for filtration.

Once the cycle is complete and I know the tank can handle ammonia quickly, can I add a CUC at that time? My thought was to add a CUC from ReefCleaners to the DT after the cycle to help with the inevitable algae. At that time, I would add two clownfish to the QT for observation. I don't really want to medicate unless I see an actual issue (medicating makes me nervous). I will keep the clownfish in quarantine for at least a month (or longer?). Once I feel confident the clownfish are healthy, I would add them to the DT.

Does this seem like a good plan? If adding the CUC right after the cycle is okay, how should I feed them? If adding the CUC isn't a good idea, how do you keep a cycled tank cycled while the fish are in the QT for weeks or months? Add ammonia or food? Those are some of the questions I have. I appreciate any advice you can offer! Thank you!

A (14).jpg
IMG_7690.jpg


Cheers!
Joe
 

Cstar_BC

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 18, 2019
Messages
724
Reaction score
1,290
Location
Vancouver BC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Have you cycled your quarantine tank ~ have some means for filtration or are you going to solely rely on frequent water changes?

I might look into bumping up your ammonia level to 5ppm, I think that is the recommended level

As for QT practices I don't think there is a right or wrong way just different degrees of the same thing. I think recommended qt period of 30 days is probably adequate, some prefer longer.

I would leave your lights off until literally the last second, also add your CUC in stages. Many die due to lack of food. Also plan CUC well ie don't get sand sifting anything because your sand is pristine.

Oghrr than that sounds like you are off to a good start
 

ichthyogeek

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 26, 2020
Messages
2,072
Reaction score
2,056
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
^^What Cstar said. Dr. Tim has a rather en-light-ening MACNA talk about cycling the tank, so I'd recommend you give it a watch when you have the time! And I think BRS put out a video about cycling a tank in the dark to keep the algae/worse biofilms at bay.
 

GoodKat

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 4, 2018
Messages
108
Reaction score
77
Location
New York
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I also have a Red Sea 170 mixed reef. Its a great tank.

I think you have the right idea with your cycle ans QT process

I had a fight with ich 2-3 years ago and my take away was this:

If ich (or other diseases) get really bad, copper is a great tool. Three weeks in a QT tank saved my clown fish and gramma.

Good luck!

Here's my 170

Going forward, I've been following a similar QT process as you concerning fish. I focus on observing fish, only treating if I must, not adding wild fish, buying from trusted sources, and not adding obviously sick fish. I know this isn't not fool proof but its worked for me over the past 3 years. (And another permanent QT tank would drive my significant other nuts).

I think more importantly, I make sure my fish have a very very varied and fresh diet. In addition to my homemade food, I feed vitamins, antibiotics, and raise coepods and baby brine.

I think its easy to over do the QT process which can be hard on fish. This is definitely just an opinion. I also see the benefits of full 90 days QT routines. You might want to research the tank transfer method (TTM). Its the easiest on fish but personally I have concerns about its effectiveness. (Again this is an opinion some have great success with it).

A word of advice, keep some extra sponges in your tank that you can pull out and use to seed a QT tank in a pinch.

IMG_20200411_000904_537.jpg
 

Oropher

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 17, 2019
Messages
323
Reaction score
363
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I love that Reefer 170, congrats.

May I suggest that in the sump, if you can, put lots of bioblock filtration (brightwell xport, maxspect nano bio media, marine pure, --> your preference). Don't turn on the skimmer and light. Let the bacteria to set first for a few days then you can start skimmer just to break in (no skimmer cup for a few days). Don't turn on lights until after the end of diatom bloom.
Monitor ammonia, once it goes down to 0, add some more Dr Tim ammonia to make it back to 2 ppm, do that over and over, until we get nitrate buildup, but nitrite is 0. If you add ammonia to 2 ppm and the next day it's gone and nitrite is 0 but nitrate is 0 --> put ammonia back to 2 ppm again; you have to get some nitrate. Once you get ammo 0, nitrite 0, nitrate X ppm, then stop dosing ammonia. Do a large waterchange. Be mindful of temperature.
Then you'll wait for diatoms/bha to take over rocks and sand. Don't turn on light yet.
At this point your system can handle ammonia. But if there's no diatoms, no need to put CUC. I'd put lawnmower blenny that will help the tank when the ugly phase come. You'll continue to feed the blenny. Ocellaris would not help the tank when ugly phase come. Your next target is to lower nitrate to 5 ppm while you continue feeding blenny normally. This phase is building up heterobacteria for denitrification; don't use chemical to lower phospate and nitrate. Focus on nitrate first, phosphate later. At this stage, if you want, you could introduce some microfauna like rotifers and copepods, however you have to feed them with phytoplankton daily. Ugly stage comes with different phases, after diatoms, some would get gha etc. Don't worry, keep doing what you are doing : feeding fish, scrapping glass (if you want), regular water change, monitoring water parameter.
Once nitrate gets 5 ppm/below, then check your phospate. Redfield ratio suggest that nitrate:phospate = 10.5:1, if your nitrate 5 ppm, then phosphate should be max 0.5 ppm. If you get phosphate way higher than 0.5 ppm --> you could use rowaphos to lower phosphate. Monitor daily or every other day of phospate, once it get below 0.5 ppm --> stop rowaphos.
After that light can be turn on.

Your question about QT: it's difficult to keep such a big QT without any bio filtration. your fish could get ammonia poisoning if you don't do water change every day or every other day. And to do so is very expensive for the price of that pioneer fish. i suggest : a lawnmover blenny. Therefore your QT need to have at least sponge filter or HOB filter with bio filtration and you have to seed those filter with nitrifying bacteria (do you still have that dr tim leftover?)

Cheers mate.
 

Dom

Full Time Reef Keeper
View Badges
Joined
Apr 29, 2016
Messages
5,801
Reaction score
6,362
Location
NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello R2R!

I'm in the process of starting my second reef aquarium, a Reefer 170 (I had a Biocube before). I learned a lot from my first salty experience, and I've learned a lot from lurking many, many hours on the forum. I'm trying to come up with a plan for establishing this tank that will help me avoid some of the usual pitfalls. I'd like to run it by some of the experts out there and ask a couple of questions. I'd like to stock the tank with two clowns, a royal gramma, and a goby of some sort. I have so much to learn about corals, so my plan at this point is to wait quite a while before adding the easiest, hardiest corals I can possibly find. My goal throughout is to BE PATIENT.

@JoeSchmo45

I think you will find success for yourself in this project, as you mention things that I think are critical to success...

1. Your build will revolve around how you want to stock your tank. Most people buy a setup and THEN ask: "what can I put in it"? You are doing to opposite, and I think you are correct to do so. I think that people who tailor their tank build around their intended stocking list do better.

2. "Patience". We live in a time of instant gratification. People don't get that unlike a flat panel TV, you can't pull a reef aquarium from the box, plug it in and enjoy. It can't be an impulsive thing in your life. So this tells me you are methodical in your approach AND in it's pace. This will serve you well.

Good luck.
Dom
 
OP
OP
JoeSchmo45

JoeSchmo45

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
72
Reaction score
133
Location
Tri-Cities
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Wow! Thank you all for such wonderful advice. This forum amazes me. You are all so helpful.

Have you cycled your quarantine tank ~ have some means for filtration or are you going to solely rely on frequent water changes?

I have not cycled the quarantine tank and actually wasn't planning on it. It's filled right now with fresh water just so I could test out the little powerhead and heater when it arrives. My plan is to seed a sponge and use that when I start to use the QT. I'll take the tank down when not in use.

As for QT practices I don't think there is a right or wrong way just different degrees of the same thing. I think recommended qt period of 30 days is probably adequate, some prefer longer.

I would leave your lights off until literally the last second, also add your CUC in stages. Many die due to lack of food. Also plan CUC well ie don't get sand sifting anything because your sand is pristine.

Adding the CUC in stages sounds like a great idea. I remember having some die-off last time. Thank you!

^^What Cstar said. Dr. Tim has a rather en-light-ening MACNA talk about cycling the tank, so I'd recommend you give it a watch when you have the time! And I think BRS put out a video about cycling a tank in the dark to keep the algae/worse biofilms at bay.

I watched the BRS video. I'll have to check out Dr. Tim's. Thank you!

I think more importantly, I make sure my fish have a very very varied and fresh diet. In addition to my homemade food, I feed vitamins, antibiotics, and raise coepods and baby brine.

...A word of advice, keep some extra sponges in your tank that you can pull out and use to seed a QT tank in a pinch.

I am definitely going to research how I should be feeding. I want to give them the best I can afford. I will stock up on some sponges for the sump as well. Thank you for the advice and your tank is AMAZING. Beautiful!

I love that Reefer 170, congrats.

Thank you! I've saved your reply so that I can reference it. Thank you so much for the wonderful advice!

I think you will find success for yourself in this project, as you mention things that I think are critical to success..

Thank you, and I hope you are right!

Thanks again, everyone! Your advice is so appreciated.

Cheers,
Joe
 

Algae invading algae: Have you had unwanted algae in your good macroalgae?

  • I regularly have unwanted algae in my macroalgae.

    Votes: 44 35.2%
  • I occasionally have unwanted algae in my macroalgae.

    Votes: 27 21.6%
  • I rarely have unwanted algae in my macroalgae.

    Votes: 9 7.2%
  • I never have unwanted algae in my macroalgae.

    Votes: 10 8.0%
  • I don’t have macroalgae.

    Votes: 31 24.8%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 3.2%
Back
Top