I don’t know how to manage my nitrates. Anxious.

olonmv

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Yep, I’m familiar with how they are supposed to work as I was planning on using algae exudates from a turbo charged algae scrubber to be the carbon source, many moons ago. Just not sure the denitrification is taking place as suggested, in anaerobic conditions. It’s just my guess that a small open tank full of bioballs fed with aquarium water and a carbon source would do the same job, without all the faffing about. Obviously, wouldn’t be the first time I’ve been wrong though.
That is what Donovan and a few other aquarists figured out. The right sized media with the right sized denitrafier and with, the right flow and in an air tight and blacked out chamber is how they were getting anaerobic bacteria to grow. It’s way above my head but, I’m getting results and all inhabits still look happy.
 

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WWC run nitrates under 25 ppm. I use NoPox and keep mine 10-20 ppm and sometimes it falls under 5 ppm and I feed two to three times daily with zero WCs since mid October last year. It's just an experimental tank testing denitrification but I'm not overrun with algae nor do I do much of anything to control them other than when I allow nitrates to exceed 160 ppm to test carbon dosing to bring it down quickly. If I had to maintain a narrow range of 3-10 ppm then I'd go get a goldfish and be done with it. Want to enjoy my box of water and not be a slave to it.

No Sump. No skimmer. No fear. Lots of detritus that needs removal because I seek the appearance of fish swimming through air.
 

olonmv

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WWC run nitrates under 25 ppm. I use NoPox and keep mine 10-20 ppm and sometimes it falls under 5 ppm and I feed two to three times daily with zero WCs since mid October last year. It's just an experimental tank testing denitrification but I'm not overrun with algae nor do I do much of anything to control them other than when I allow nitrates to exceed 160 ppm to test carbon dosing to bring it down quickly. If I had to maintain a narrow range of 3-10 ppm then I'd go get a goldfish and be done with it. Want to enjoy my box of water and not be a slave to it.

No Sump. No skimmer. No fear. Lots of detritus that needs removal because I seek the appearance of fish swimming through air.
Are you running an AIO? Are you using mechanical filtration?
 

GARRIGA

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Are you running an AIO? Are you using mechanical filtration?
0565566A-FF68-4BA7-957B-0B6903EADB91.jpeg

DIY undergravel style plate that draws water from front end, passes that through four inches of pumice (Matrix) which is being drawn by a Tidal 75 HOB filled with the provided blue sponge filter, carbon and floss. Clean the carbon when I replace the floss and change it out when the water yellows but that lasts months. Fact is I clean the floss and stick it back in since it likely has benefits bacteria.

Experiment has run its course and will be upgrading to a WaterBox 20 or 25 AIO and next step is adding RO style micron filters to polish the water and test quarantine of ich infected. Theory being that I can filter out the free swimming stage vs use of copper. Logistics being and the capture and decomposition of detritus to prevent quick clogging of the lower micron pleated filter cartridges.

Couple of years out before building my main display. Time to fiddle with ideas I’ve had since the 70s.
 

olonmv

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0565566A-FF68-4BA7-957B-0B6903EADB91.jpeg

DIY undergravel style plate that draws water from front end, passes that through four inches of pumice (Matrix) which is being drawn by a Tidal 75 HOB filled with the provided blue sponge filter, carbon and floss. Clean the carbon when I replace the floss and change it out when the water yellows but that lasts months. Fact is I clean the floss and stick it back in since it likely has benefits bacteria.

Experiment has run its course and will be upgrading to a WaterBox 20 or 25 AIO and next step is adding RO style micron filters to polish the water and test quarantine of ich infected. Theory being that I can filter out the free swimming stage vs use of copper. Logistics being and the capture and decomposition of detritus to prevent quick clogging of the lower micron pleated filter cartridges.

Couple of years out before building my main display. Time to fiddle with ideas I’ve had since the 70s.
I’m experimenting with that denitrifyer that I made also. I have a pistol who constantly re-arranges sand. If it does what it says I think I’ll upgrade to something big. It’s kinda the same concept as I’m doin looks like. The method I went with, carbon source is introduced into denitrfyer instead of broadcast into tank.
 

MnFish1

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Hello @Randy Holmes-Farley

So I stopped carbon dosing for a few weeks, but my nitrates are slooooowly climbing up despite using an oversized skimmer, filter socks (changed 2x/week) + doing 15% weekly water changes. I do feed my fish often and well, and I believe that’s the cause of increasing nitrates.

I kind of just wanted to maintain my nitrates around 3-10 ppm. My nitrates are climbing to mid 8ppm which is still in range, but I don’t have control over it. It just keeps slowly getting higher and higher. I bring it down after the water change, but it reaches higher than the week prior in a few days.

I was thinking of just dosing 15mL of vinegar in my 260 gallon per day. I do use a UV. I don’t plan to dose microbacter 7.

I hope this will be ok for my acros…


I feel like I’m making a HUGE mistake. I just don’t know how else to maintain nitrates. I really don’t want to dose carbon because I’ve read people kill acros with it. But I don’t know how else to manage nitrates? I don’t have space for refugium and an algae scrubber is not something I’m interested in.

I’m just so anxious. I really want to carbon dose as it’s the “magic” solution which can be dialed up/down…I’m just so scared that I’ll kill my acros with it.

I’m just nervous right now. Does anyone have an idea on how to safely manage nitrates? I just want to have a safe solution like I do with GFO for phosphates. It’s a great solution. Maybe I need more corals, but I’m working at stocking the tank, it just takes time. I can definitely limit the food I feed.

I don’t want ultra low nutrients. I just want to keep them in range and in balance. If anyone has suggestions I’d be willing to hear them! Thanks!

Here’s my parameters:

Salinity: 35ppt
Calcium: 420ppm
Alkalinity: 8dkh
Phosphates: 0.05ppm
Nitrates: 8.5ppm
Temp: 77-78F
PH: 8.1-8.4
A hobby is supposed to be 'fun' - so try to relax, first of all. Second - you stopped dosing carbon - why? its normal for nitrates to increase with decreased carbon dosing, right? Third, if you're nervous, don't cut the carbon out entirely, cut it by 75%, then increase or decrease it as needed. I would make a plan. i.e. check nitrates weekly - and adjust to keep in a certain range. I would make SMALL changes - the thing that causes problems with Acros, IME, are QUICK decreases in nitrates, etc. If you're monitoring closely - you should not be at risk. Good luck - hope this helps
 

GARRIGA

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I’m experimenting with that denitrifyer that I made also. I have a pistol who constantly re-arranges sand. If it does what it says I think I’ll upgrade to something big. It’s kinda the same concept as I’m doin looks like. The method I went with, carbon source is introduced into denitrfyer instead of broadcast into tank.
Don't think the carbon needs to be introduced into the denitrifyer. It will dissolve into the water and make it's way there. Fact is that decomposition releases carbon as well. End of day we are managing water.
 

olonmv

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Don't think the carbon needs to be introduced into the denitrifyer. It will dissolve into the water and make it's way there. Fact is that decomposition releases carbon as well. End of day we are managing water.
I think the point in my case is to isolate the carbon source to inside the chamber and let the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria do its thing while it populates. I’m hoping to be able to tune it to the point where I don’t have to dose anymore carbon. None the less. It’s gotten my No3 way down in just a couple of weeks without adversely affecting the inhabitants.
 

GARRIGA

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I think the point in my case is to isolate the carbon source to inside the chamber and let the aerobic and anaerobic bacteria do its thing while it populates. I’m hoping to be able to tune it to the point where I don’t have to dose anymore carbon. None the less. It’s gotten my No3 way down in just a couple of weeks without adversely affecting the inhabitants.
Haven't removed detritus since starting this venture other than what is captured by floss. Have approximately 15 liters of pumice in a 20 gallon with approximately 16 gallons of actual volume. Have tested with low flow to induce anoxic conditions as well as high flow. Both with and without carbon dosing. In the early stages I was able to keep nitrates and phosphates in check without more carbon dosing than needed to bring those levels in check after an accident such as over feeding. What I believe is happening, regardless how efficient I make my denitrification process the existing detritus load is breaking down faster than my filter can process without adding carbon. Phosphates require Lanthanum Chloride or other remedy to keep below 2 ppm. Can get that below 0.25 ppm and at the moment not a concern to go lower since no corals demanding such low levels and my visual inspection tells me algae is in check. Chasing numbers where numbers don't need changing seems futile to me.

Perhaps were I to remove excess detritus such as by having a sock or roller mat then perhaps I'd get to a point where carbon dosing and phosphate removers aren't necessary yet the purpose of this experiment is to keep hands out of the tank and reduce my involvement beyond admiring my watery world. Carbon and Lanthanum can be plased on a doser along with All For Reef and simplify my reef keeping to the point that I just need to test to ensure paramters are adequate and likely only affected by coral growth requiring an increase in dosage as deemed necessary. In a perfect world, I'd send out ICP tests every month and adjust as needed. Having no WC means my buffer isn't affected by nitrification since I'm adding back during carbon dosing what was utilized during nitrification, food input will determine daily phosphate management and that won't change quickly since it will also be controlled by fish growth and/or additions and subtraction and the remaining concerns will be addressed by having a one part that handles buffer, calcium, magnesium and trace plus perhaps more buffer dosed if consumption leans that way.

Don't believe reefing or any attempt at keeping life in a box requires complexity once the science is properly grasped and a system is created that keeps all in check and most importantly, consistent. Constantly here how nothing good happens fast and I agree with that. Why I aim to create a balance system through nature with testing to discover if additional items need removal or addition.

Carbon dosing provides the main reason I'm now able to accomplish this and why perhaps you may find that cutting that out won't possibly change unless effort is made to keep detritus removed quicker than it decomposes and soon as something dead is exposed to water that will start decomposing and adding to your nitrates.

Sorry for going off on a tangent but felt that having the entire story helps explain why in our small little closed systems we can't provide a large enough denitrification chamber to control nitrates, although, a refugium or algal scrubber would but yet that's another complexity and another entirely separate life support system that needs to be maintained. They do crash. Been studying them since the mid to late 80s and have actually tested in a freshwater system and I'm no longer seeing that as a viable approach. Dosing much easier and I can control that to the point I could literally maintain a very narrow corridor once I understand how much nitrates my system generates daily since I can control the main input being food. Automatic feeders resolve that.

Final point to your introducing carbon to the filter vs water. Are you adding liquid or some form of beads? Can't see how in liquid form the precise point of introduction matters. Within minutes, anything added usually dissolves equally and why nitrates at the bottom of a tank same as those at the surface. all depends on water turnover to get everything mixed which would also perform the same affect to something added in a specific location.
 

olonmv

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Haven't removed detritus since starting this venture other than what is captured by floss. Have approximately 15 liters of pumice in a 20 gallon with approximately 16 gallons of actual volume. Have tested with low flow to induce anoxic conditions as well as high flow. Both with and without carbon dosing. In the early stages I was able to keep nitrates and phosphates in check without more carbon dosing than needed to bring those levels in check after an accident such as over feeding. What I believe is happening, regardless how efficient I make my denitrification process the existing detritus load is breaking down faster than my filter can process without adding carbon. Phosphates require Lanthanum Chloride or other remedy to keep below 2 ppm. Can get that below 0.25 ppm and at the moment not a concern to go lower since no corals demanding such low levels and my visual inspection tells me algae is in check. Chasing numbers where numbers don't need changing seems futile to me.

Perhaps were I to remove excess detritus such as by having a sock or roller mat then perhaps I'd get to a point where carbon dosing and phosphate removers aren't necessary yet the purpose of this experiment is to keep hands out of the tank and reduce my involvement beyond admiring my watery world. Carbon and Lanthanum can be plased on a doser along with All For Reef and simplify my reef keeping to the point that I just need to test to ensure paramters are adequate and likely only affected by coral growth requiring an increase in dosage as deemed necessary. In a perfect world, I'd send out ICP tests every month and adjust as needed. Having no WC means my buffer isn't affected by nitrification since I'm adding back during carbon dosing what was utilized during nitrification, food input will determine daily phosphate management and that won't change quickly since it will also be controlled by fish growth and/or additions and subtraction and the remaining concerns will be addressed by having a one part that handles buffer, calcium, magnesium and trace plus perhaps more buffer dosed if consumption leans that way.

Don't believe reefing or any attempt at keeping life in a box requires complexity once the science is properly grasped and a system is created that keeps all in check and most importantly, consistent. Constantly here how nothing good happens fast and I agree with that. Why I aim to create a balance system through nature with testing to discover if additional items need removal or addition.

Carbon dosing provides the main reason I'm now able to accomplish this and why perhaps you may find that cutting that out won't possibly change unless effort is made to keep detritus removed quicker than it decomposes and soon as something dead is exposed to water that will start decomposing and adding to your nitrates.

Sorry for going off on a tangent but felt that having the entire story helps explain why in our small little closed systems we can't provide a large enough denitrification chamber to control nitrates, although, a refugium or algal scrubber would but yet that's another complexity and another entirely separate life support system that needs to be maintained. They do crash. Been studying them since the mid to late 80s and have actually tested in a freshwater system and I'm no longer seeing that as a viable approach. Dosing much easier and I can control that to the point I could literally maintain a very narrow corridor once I understand how much nitrates my system generates daily since I can control the main input being food. Automatic feeders resolve that.

Final point to your introducing carbon to the filter vs water. Are you adding liquid or some form of beads? Can't see how in liquid form the precise point of introduction matters. Within minutes, anything added usually dissolves equally and why nitrates at the bottom of a tank same as those at the surface. all depends on water turnover to get everything mixed which would also perform the same affect to something added in a specific location.
Wow. Way above my pay grade lol. I’m nowhere near as informed about this stuff as you are. What I do know is that I stumbled onto this gentleman’s post about his denitifrier a few weeks ago and thought I’d give it a go. I’ve seen my nitrates reduce dramatically since making and installing it.
The way my tank is setup currently filtration wise is, I’ve removed mechanical filtration (might go back). A small pump feeds water into a pvc sealed chamber (.32gallons dry volume) that is filled with 5/8 sized ceramic bio media. Which was seeded with mb7 for about 8 days after plumbing to tank and after 3rd day of seeding a carbon source has been introduced daily for the past couple of weeks (cheapest 80 proof vodka I could buy). My nitrates have gone from 36.9 down to 13.5 in just round about 2 weeks. Now, only other nutrient export I have is chaeto in chamber 2 of my AIO. But, that’s been in there for a while and has never really exported much even though it has growth. It was in there when I stopped doing water changes for about 2 months and allowed the N03 to creep to upwards of 40ppm. This was just an off the wall experiment but so far it looks like it’s doing what’s advertised.
 

GARRIGA

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Wow. Way above my pay grade lol. I’m nowhere near as informed about this stuff as you are. What I do know is that I stumbled onto this gentleman’s post about his denitifrier a few weeks ago and thought I’d give it a go. I’ve seen my nitrates reduce dramatically since making and installing it.
The way my tank is setup currently filtration wise is, I’ve removed mechanical filtration (might go back). A small pump feeds water into a pvc sealed chamber (.32gallons dry volume) that is filled with 5/8 sized ceramic bio media. Which was seeded with mb7 for about 8 days after plumbing to tank and after 3rd day of seeding a carbon source has been introduced daily for the past couple of weeks (cheapest 80 proof vodka I could buy). My nitrates have gone from 36.9 down to 13.5 in just round about 2 weeks. Now, only other nutrient export I have is chaeto in chamber 2 of my AIO. But, that’s been in there for a while and has never really exported much even though it has growth. It was in there when I stopped doing water changes for about 2 months and allowed the N03 to creep to upwards of 40ppm. This was just an off the wall experiment but so far it looks like it’s doing what’s advertised.
If the chaeto is growing then it’s removing but export won’t happen until you remove some of the chaeto. Perhaps taking half out periodically will show better results since it will induce more growth.

BTW, any PH affects from the vodka? Reason I dose NoPox is because it’s a basically a blend of vodka and vinegar so as to not have a PH effect. Granted, the effect would be temporary
 

olonmv

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If the chaeto is growing then it’s removing but export won’t happen until you remove some of the chaeto. Perhaps taking half out periodically will show better results since it will induce more growth.

BTW, any PH affects from the vodka? Reason I dose NoPox is because it’s a basically a blend of vodka and vinegar so as to not have a PH effect. Granted, the effect would be temporary
I’m sure the chaeto is removing some but I just can’t see it removing 20 or so ppm in the matter of a couple of weeks. Unless I’m completely missing something.

to be honest. I rarely test ph. I’d usually hit in the 7.8 - 8.1 range when I regularly tested so I just stopped. Doors at my house open/close a lot. Lol, reason I dose cheap cheap vodka is because I’m cheap and this is an experiment. To me it seems like it’s working solely because I’ve never experienced a reduction of N03 without water changes until now. I broadcast feed about 1ml of thawed reef frenzy frozen daily and sometimes 2ml when I target feed nems. And about every 2 weeks I target feed reef roids to nems and broadcast what’s left.
 

GARRIGA

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I’m sure the chaeto is removing some but I just can’t see it removing 20 or so ppm in the matter of a couple of weeks. Unless I’m completely missing something.

to be honest. I rarely test ph. I’d usually hit in the 7.8 - 8.1 range when I regularly tested so I just stopped. Doors at my house open/close a lot. Lol, reason I dose cheap cheap vodka is because I’m cheap and this is an experiment. To me it seems like it’s working solely because I’ve never experienced a reduction of N03 without water changes until now. I broadcast feed about 1ml of thawed reef frenzy frozen daily and sometimes 2ml when I target feed nems. And about every 2 weeks I target feed reef roids to nems and broadcast what’s left.
Haven't tried vodka but have been using NoPox since post cycling to bring then nitrates from 160 ppm plus to less than 5 ppm. Since this is an experimental tank with heavier than normal feeding, no WC and no extraction of detritus the nitrates will jump back to 160 ppm (although nitrites might be present but I rarely check those) and within a week or two post starting NoPox again it drops down to under 20 ppm then seems to stabilize between 10-20 ppm although if I increase the dosage then I can bottom that out. I have it now where adding 2 ml to 16 gallons keeps them below 20 and mostly closer to 10 ppm. My algae is minimal and seems isolated to one rock under the Kessil. Get cyano in a low flow section which the turkey baster quickly eliminates. Oddly that is where I get what appears to be GHA yet that's easily disturbed and picked up by mechanical filtration.


Perhaps try increasing the dosage of vodka by 25% increments. Don't know how valid adding MB7 or other bacterial products is at this stage but I do because it makes me feel better. Can try that as well. I believe in using different products to increase the diversity of both aerobic and anaerobic strains. No clue if that works, either but again it makes me feel better.
 

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Haven't tried vodka but have been using NoPox since post cycling to bring then nitrates from 160 ppm plus to less than 5 ppm. Since this is an experimental tank with heavier than normal feeding, no WC and no extraction of detritus the nitrates will jump back to 160 ppm (although nitrites might be present but I rarely check those) and within a week or two post starting NoPox again it drops down to under 20 ppm then seems to stabilize between 10-20 ppm although if I increase the dosage then I can bottom that out. I have it now where adding 2 ml to 16 gallons keeps them below 20 and mostly closer to 10 ppm. My algae is minimal and seems isolated to one rock under the Kessil. Get cyano in a low flow section which the turkey baster quickly eliminates. Oddly that is where I get what appears to be GHA yet that's easily disturbed and picked up by mechanical filtration.


Perhaps try increasing the dosage of vodka by 25% increments. Don't know how valid adding MB7 or other bacterial products is at this stage but I do because it makes me feel better. Can try that as well. I believe in using different products to increase the diversity of both aerobic and anaerobic strains. No clue if that works, either but again it makes me feel better.
I’m in the infancy with the denitrifier and I will continue to monitor it. If it stalls with the removal of nitrate I will definitely start to up the carbon dosage as you suggest. Also will probably reintroduce more MB7 if need be but I also think about opening up my denitrifier and adding different types of media like some matrix or something.
 

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I’m in the infancy with the denitrifier and I will continue to monitor it. If it stalls with the removal of nitrate I will definitely start to up the carbon dosage as you suggest. Also will probably reintroduce more MB7 if need be but I also think about opening up my denitrifier and adding different types of media like some matrix or something.
Prefer pumice (Seachem Matrix) because it's porous, light and inert. Can be acquired from Home Depot in 2L and 20L. Think I paid $60 for the 20L. What they carry is 1/4 and appears to be identical to Seachem Denitrate. Can also be acquired from Orchid garden supply retailers in cubic foot orders and various sizes. That's the route I'll be taking for my main display.

Purpose of my denitrifier is not just handling nitrates but also to capture detritus prior to flowing through sediment filters that will step down to 5 microns. This serves several purposes, allows carbon dosing without use of a skimmer as I have been doing, captures free swimming pathogens such as Ich and remove precipitated Lanthanum Chloride used for phosphate management. The sequence of sediment filters will be 50, 20 and 5 micron post denitrifier and goal being I only have to clean the 5 micron often. I'm assuming these sediment filters will also break down over time the detritus captured until it's the size of humus which along with inert particles captured will be removed as the filters clog. The denitrifier is basically a decomposition filter where nitrification and denitrification occurs plus stores detritus until that's fully decomposed.

Another step I plan to use is carbon post the 5 micron as that should extend the use of removing only solubles and I'm researching the use of coral skeletons in one last chamber to act as a poor man's calcium reactor. Assuming CO2 produced during nitrification will melt these skeletons, since I expect the effluent exiting the filtration should be a lower PH, as well.
 

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Prefer pumice (Seachem Matrix) because it's porous, light and inert. Can be acquired from Home Depot in 2L and 20L. Think I paid $60 for the 20L. What they carry is 1/4 and appears to be identical to Seachem Denitrate. Can also be acquired from Orchid garden supply retailers in cubic foot orders and various sizes. That's the route I'll be taking for my main display.

Purpose of my denitrifier is not just handling nitrates but also to capture detritus prior to flowing through sediment filters that will step down to 5 microns. This serves several purposes, allows carbon dosing without use of a skimmer as I have been doing, captures free swimming pathogens such as Ich and remove precipitated Lanthanum Chloride used for phosphate management. The sequence of sediment filters will be 50, 20 and 5 micron post denitrifier and goal being I only have to clean the 5 micron often. I'm assuming these sediment filters will also break down over time the detritus captured until it's the size of humus which along with inert particles captured will be removed as the filters clog. The denitrifier is basically a decomposition filter where nitrification and denitrification occurs plus stores detritus until that's fully decomposed.

Another step I plan to use is carbon post the 5 micron as that should extend the use of removing only solubles and I'm researching the use of coral skeletons in one last chamber to act as a poor man's calcium reactor. Assuming CO2 produced during nitrification will melt these skeletons, since I expect the effluent exiting the filtration should be a lower PH, as well.
I stopped by PetSmart and picked up some seachem matrix, from what I’ve read that size is recommended because it doesn’t clog as easily as smaller media does. But if and when I decide to go with a bigger denitrifier for a bigger tank I’ll definitely keep the HD stuff in mind!

Im putting mechanical filtration back. To many particles free floating in the water making it look dirty.

I too seek nutrient stability like you and the making it also Dub as a calcium reactor sounds awesome! For now….I supplement with A4R but need to get parameters back to stable before adding coral again so I barely have to dose it since I have very few corals.
 

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For me, dosing nopox or increasing amount takes weeks for bacteria to make an impact . even more so with uv killing the floating kind. I like to see a slow downward nitrate reading like .5 to 1 ppm per week. I have a fully stocked tank 175 gallons and use very little like 5 to 10ml max. I only like to bump carbon up like no more than 1 ml per week. In the past I overdosed or dosed like 16 ml and had some bad bacteria kill some corals so I stopped completely for a few months. However my nitrates stay stable at 18 to 20ppm without carbon. Which supposedly is what WWC is at. But I notice some polyps turning color of acro skin with 20 ppm. For example pink floyd red polyps are yellow/ brown. Carbon helps keep my nitrates closer to 10 to 12ppm. Phosphate is kept about .04 to .08 with rowaphos gfo.
TSA is another one that keeps their Nitrates at 20ppm. They use fish/food to keep them high as opposed to dosing. I try to keep mine between 10 and 20ppm and it seems to go well. My main tank is mostly acropora, if it were fish-only or LPS I'd probably keep it lower. I use a DOS for water change, and I do NoPox and Bact7 weekly to keep nutrients from getting too high, while only using a siphon once every 2-3 months or so. (I did more water changes in the first year while it was stabilizing) I have a lot of live rock, this probably wouldn't work well with a small amount due to the lack of surface area for bacteria. It may have been Randy that talked about some rock taking way longer than others to get to the phase in which bacteria can more efficiently control nitrates. I think it was due to both leeching and how deep the bacteria can get in the pores. Every tank is different though so I would keep it where you feel most comfortable.
 

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I stopped by PetSmart and picked up some seachem matrix, from what I’ve read that size is recommended because it doesn’t clog as easily as smaller media does. But if and when I decide to go with a bigger denitrifier for a bigger tank I’ll definitely keep the HD stuff in mind!

Im putting mechanical filtration back. To many particles free floating in the water making it look dirty.

I too seek nutrient stability like you and the making it also Dub as a calcium reactor sounds awesome! For now….I supplement with A4R but need to get parameters back to stable before adding coral again so I barely have to dose it since I have very few corals.
2505B583-F3DD-46D8-9510-DFB27BBA8322.jpeg


Smaller size doesn’t clog plus detritus breaks down in bio media. Everything that once lived decomposes. Just need a large enough media compartment to capture detritus and allow it to decompose. Why filter socks and floss not best because little surface area. Bet if people started placing pumice in their socks those would go longer between changes. Just need to be able to process the decomposition but having empty sumps with nothing but a protein skimmer not likely getting it done.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Hello @Randy Holmes-Farley

So I stopped carbon dosing for a few weeks, but my nitrates are slooooowly climbing up despite using an oversized skimmer, filter socks (changed 2x/week) + doing 15% weekly water changes. I do feed my fish often and well, and I believe that’s the cause of increasing nitrates.

I kind of just wanted to maintain my nitrates around 3-10 ppm. My nitrates are climbing to mid 8ppm which is still in range, but I don’t have control over it. It just keeps slowly getting higher and higher. I bring it down after the water change, but it reaches higher than the week prior in a few days.

I was thinking of just dosing 15mL of vinegar in my 260 gallon per day. I do use a UV. I don’t plan to dose microbacter 7.

I hope this will be ok for my acros…


I feel like I’m making a HUGE mistake. I just don’t know how else to maintain nitrates. I really don’t want to dose carbon because I’ve read people kill acros with it. But I don’t know how else to manage nitrates? I don’t have space for refugium and an algae scrubber is not something I’m interested in.

I’m just so anxious. I really want to carbon dose as it’s the “magic” solution which can be dialed up/down…I’m just so scared that I’ll kill my acros with it.

I’m just nervous right now. Does anyone have an idea on how to safely manage nitrates? I just want to have a safe solution like I do with GFO for phosphates. It’s a great solution. Maybe I need more corals, but I’m working at stocking the tank, it just takes time. I can definitely limit the food I feed.

I don’t want ultra low nutrients. I just want to keep them in range and in balance. If anyone has suggestions I’d be willing to hear them! Thanks!

Here’s my parameters:

Salinity: 35ppt
Calcium: 420ppm
Alkalinity: 8dkh
Phosphates: 0.05ppm
Nitrates: 8.5ppm
Temp: 77-78F
PH: 8.1-8.4

Getting to this late, but what's the concern with a higher organic carbon dose?
 

bakbay

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From my experience, I’ve killed more acros by over-managing N & P! I used to run a sulfur-based biodenitrator and GFO in a media reactor. My nitrate got to near zero or undetectable and ditto for phosphate. Since I removed the biodenitrator and GFO, SPS frags & colonies couldn’t be better! My N was around 20 and P was 0.17(?) last time I checked, which was two+ months ago. I’ve since stopped chasing N&P — corals are growing so less is more, for me!
 

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