I found an old TV stand and this is my DIY Equipment Cabinet question/build thread.

shollis2814

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OK, so I have made a few threads with random questions. I think I stumbled across a solution to my storage/organization problems. Instead of making threads for one off questions, I decided to consolidate and maybe ask them all here as I start my journey into DIY and automation/dosing, so I am not overposting and annoying folks that don't care, and the people who want to help can follow.

The problem
IMG_20181209_110549.jpg


I had to downsize tanks to a 20 long and move it out of the living room. No stand, so I used my hobby table, which used to be a computer/science lab table (It can hold the weight. That's a metal frame. All my fish stuff is down below where I had a closet downstairs).

My potential solution
IMG_20181212_190202.jpg

I found this TV stand at a thrift store. It fits perfectly (less than an inch wider, too) under the table. I want to make this as neat as I can, while also using it for some automation I have been wanting to try. Here is one possible configuration for my new dosing pump. Those are 800 ml VOSS water bottles. I have some bulkheads I can drill a hole and fit them into the lid. I don't know what I want to dose yet, but consider Reef A, Reef B, and Vodka. The drawback here is that there is no door. It also seems a wasted space behind the bottles, but I could possible fit my ATO reservoir behind it (I have an ATO sensor kit, but haven't decided on a reservoir yet. I could also turn the dosing pump 90 degrees

IMG_20181212_190056.jpg

Option B would be to drill holes in this shelf and have 2 bottles up front and two behind. I am not sure how the tubing to the aquarium is supposed to run. Can the tubing from the pump bend down to bottles behind? Like the middle, I could turn the dosing pump 90 degrees. The drawback here is the shelf is at max height, which is too low for the 800 ml bottles, which means I need to drink 4 more bottles of overpriced Norwegian tap water :p.

I also want to include in this:
  • ATO system. I have an Aquahub kit with the relay and sensors and what not, but it's not running yet. I want to consider hiding the reservoir in here.
  • All my test kits, phosphate pads, carbon, chemicals, supplements, etc.
  • I also was given two Raspberry Pis. I don't know much about them, but my friend gave me an 8Gig card with Noobs on it. I want to look into some stuff I could do with reef-pi, but I am a total noob. Can you use the ATO kit with it?
  • My 2 surge protectors: lights and heater on one, and smartplug for my pumps so I can turn them off with Alexa.
IMG_20181212_192609.jpg


The other issue is that this is the back of my tank. There's not a lot of room for dosing hoses and ATO as is. On the left is my main filter. It has a built in skimmer (noisy, but it gets the job done) and I run carbon and a phosphate pad. On the left is a double Regent filter simply for water circulation. I don't use the regent filters, but instead this is where I house my chemipure, Phosban, Purigen, etc. There is not a good space for my sump and it won't fit in the cabinet as is. Another option is to totally gut this thing and make a place for my sump and custom build shelves around it. It's a 5 gallon older sump that has a built in skimmer, and I am a bit worried about the height of it in the cabinet and routing the hoses, but I think it's possible. I also may have to remove the double filter. The tank is a couple of weeks old, but the live rock is almost 5 years old and I was getting nitrates on day 4 after the move.

This is overwhelming. I don't want to mess up, and I tend to overthink things and have paralyzation of choice. I have never been really good at DIY, but I am trying to challenge myself in this part of it as well.

Would love thoughts or input.
 

Retro Reefer

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Looks like particle board which will be problematic down the road, if it is I would seal all holes and clear coat it inside and out.
 

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OK, so I have made a few threads with random questions. I think I stumbled across a solution to my storage/organization problems. Instead of making threads for one off questions, I decided to consolidate and maybe ask them all here as I start my journey into DIY and automation/dosing, so I am not overposting and annoying folks that don't care, and the people who want to help can follow.

The problem
IMG_20181209_110549.jpg


I had to downsize tanks to a 20 long and move it out of the living room. No stand, so I used my hobby table, which used to be a computer/science lab table (It can hold the weight. That's a metal frame. All my fish stuff is down below where I had a closet downstairs).

My potential solution
IMG_20181212_190202.jpg

I found this TV stand at a thrift store. It fits perfectly (less than an inch wider, too) under the table. I want to make this as neat as I can, while also using it for some automation I have been wanting to try. Here is one possible configuration for my new dosing pump. Those are 800 ml VOSS water bottles. I have some bulkheads I can drill a hole and fit them into the lid. I don't know what I want to dose yet, but consider Reef A, Reef B, and Vodka. The drawback here is that there is no door. It also seems a wasted space behind the bottles, but I could possible fit my ATO reservoir behind it (I have an ATO sensor kit, but haven't decided on a reservoir yet. I could also turn the dosing pump 90 degrees

IMG_20181212_190056.jpg

Option B would be to drill holes in this shelf and have 2 bottles up front and two behind. I am not sure how the tubing to the aquarium is supposed to run. Can the tubing from the pump bend down to bottles behind? Like the middle, I could turn the dosing pump 90 degrees. The drawback here is the shelf is at max height, which is too low for the 800 ml bottles, which means I need to drink 4 more bottles of overpriced Norwegian tap water :p.

I also want to include in this:
  • ATO system. I have an Aquahub kit with the relay and sensors and what not, but it's not running yet. I want to consider hiding the reservoir in here.
  • All my test kits, phosphate pads, carbon, chemicals, supplements, etc.
  • I also was given two Raspberry Pis. I don't know much about them, but my friend gave me an 8Gig card with Noobs on it. I want to look into some stuff I could do with reef-pi, but I am a total noob. Can you use the ATO kit with it?
  • My 2 surge protectors: lights and heater on one, and smartplug for my pumps so I can turn them off with Alexa.
IMG_20181212_192609.jpg


The other issue is that this is the back of my tank. There's not a lot of room for dosing hoses and ATO as is. On the left is my main filter. It has a built in skimmer (noisy, but it gets the job done) and I run carbon and a phosphate pad. On the left is a double Regent filter simply for water circulation. I don't use the regent filters, but instead this is where I house my chemipure, Phosban, Purigen, etc. There is not a good space for my sump and it won't fit in the cabinet as is. Another option is to totally gut this thing and make a place for my sump and custom build shelves around it. It's a 5 gallon older sump that has a built in skimmer, and I am a bit worried about the height of it in the cabinet and routing the hoses, but I think it's possible. I also may have to remove the double filter. The tank is a couple of weeks old, but the live rock is almost 5 years old and I was getting nitrates on day 4 after the move.

This is overwhelming. I don't want to mess up, and I tend to overthink things and have paralyzation of choice. I have never been really good at DIY, but I am trying to challenge myself in this part of it as well.

Would love thoughts or input.
I just bought similar dosing equipment, wish I bought sooner. Love it. :)
 

Citycop89

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If you could, gut the inside of that stand. The shelving isn’t an issue, what might be is how the vertical dividers are attached. You won’t be using this stand to hold up any weight if interpreted correctly, fitting the tv stand under the metal framed table you are currently using.

Once gutted, you could easily put a small wooden frame inside against the back wall to shore it up a bit. Another option, what I would probably do, is mock up the setup you would like. With it gutted, place your sump inside and make some markings. You could place a vertical divider in a location that gives you a section for your sump. Or, divide in half and use one side for sump and dosing and the other for ATO reservoir, controllers, storage. You could get a thin but taller and longer reservoir for ATO and leave room on the side for storage.

With there being no door, you could attempt to diy doors. Another option, and easier, is get a metal rod and place some sort of fabric curtain across. Could either match home decor or just black. Can get two of them, trim to the desired height and pay $20 for a seamstress to hem the ends and make it a finished product. Super easy way to cover the insides.

And I also agree, clear coat that thing before final assembly.
 
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shollis2814

shollis2814

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If you could, gut the inside of that stand. The shelving isn’t an issue, what might be is how the vertical dividers are attached. You won’t be using this stand to hold up any weight if interpreted correctly, fitting the tv stand under the metal framed table you are currently using.

Once gutted, you could easily put a small wooden frame inside against the back wall to shore it up a bit. Another option, what I would probably do, is mock up the setup you would like. With it gutted, place your sump inside and make some markings. You could place a vertical divider in a location that gives you a section for your sump. Or, divide in half and use one side for sump and dosing and the other for ATO reservoir, controllers, storage. You could get a thin but taller and longer reservoir for ATO and leave room on the side for storage.

With there being no door, you could attempt to diy doors. Another option, and easier, is get a metal rod and place some sort of fabric curtain across. Could either match home decor or just black. Can get two of them, trim to the desired height and pay $20 for a seamstress to hem the ends and make it a finished product. Super easy way to cover the insides.

And I also agree, clear coat that thing before final assembly.
Thanks. You are correct, no weight. My filter concern is my box/pre-filter from my old tank is huge. Do they make smaller ones? Mine was probably 6x6x4 and in a 20 long that's significant tank real estate.
 

Citycop89

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As far as those hang on the back filters, they make them of all sizes and carry them at Petco/ Petsmart etc. you can pick out what ever size you prefer that fits and remove the filter pads. Then you have an empty chamber to drop what ever media you want in there. As far as a filter that has a skimmer built in, I’m not familiar with them to give an opinion. You can look into separate hang on the back skimmers though.
 

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Looks sturdy enough don't let it get wet !
As mentioned above ,consider putting some calk or silicone in the holes that expose the particle board . No sump in there? That will surely help with moisture .
The TV/tank stand looks real good !
 
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shollis2814

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If you could, gut the inside of that stand. The shelving isn’t an issue, what might be is how the vertical dividers are attached. You won’t be using this stand to hold up any weight if interpreted correctly, fitting the tv stand under the metal framed table you are currently using.

Once gutted, you could easily put a small wooden frame inside against the back wall to shore it up a bit. Another option, what I would probably do, is mock up the setup you would like. With it gutted, place your sump inside and make some markings. You could place a vertical divider in a location that gives you a section for your sump. Or, divide in half and use one side for sump and dosing and the other for ATO reservoir, controllers, storage. You could get a thin but taller and longer reservoir for ATO and leave room on the side for storage.

With there being no door, you could attempt to diy doors. Another option, and easier, is get a metal rod and place some sort of fabric curtain across. Could either match home decor or just black. Can get two of them, trim to the desired height and pay $20 for a seamstress to hem the ends and make it a finished product. Super easy way to cover the insides.

And I also agree, clear coat that thing before final assembly.

The whole thing is one of those cheap cam lock systems. I'm not home, but pretty sure the vertical dividers won't be an issue. I may just run a couple of cross pieces for bracing so the back can be open for cords.
And, in our old house, we once tried to strip and refinish the cabinets. We started with the two doors under the sink. We found 8 layers of pain on top of a layer of shellac before we got to wood. We chunked the doors and did your curtain rod trick, so I am well aware of that tactic. Thanks!!
 
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shollis2814

shollis2814

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So, not a productive evening. I am a teacher and I have an exam I am giving tomorrow, wedding this weekend, and another exam on Monday. What I did learn"
  • My current sump is too big for this cabinet. I may look at a 10 gallon if I can get a $1 a gallon sale at Petco or something. I am not sure it is worth it. Would love advice there.
  • I am pretty sure I can gut the insides easily. The top is just on with a cam locking system. I ordered too much at once and I am so overwhelmed with projects, lol. Leaving town on the 23rd. I am thinking I need to prioritize the ATO system before the dosing. Again, thoughts welcome.
 
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shollis2814

shollis2814

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If you could, gut the inside of that stand. The shelving isn’t an issue, what might be is how the vertical dividers are attached. You won’t be using this stand to hold up any weight if interpreted correctly, fitting the tv stand under the metal framed table you are currently using.

Once gutted, you could easily put a small wooden frame inside against the back wall to shore it up a bit. Another option, what I would probably do, is mock up the setup you would like. With it gutted, place your sump inside and make some markings. You could place a vertical divider in a location that gives you a section for your sump. Or, divide in half and use one side for sump and dosing and the other for ATO reservoir, controllers, storage. You could get a thin but taller and longer reservoir for ATO and leave room on the side for storage.

With there being no door, you could attempt to diy doors. Another option, and easier, is get a metal rod and place some sort of fabric curtain across. Could either match home decor or just black. Can get two of them, trim to the desired height and pay $20 for a seamstress to hem the ends and make it a finished product. Super easy way to cover the insides.

And I also agree, clear coat that thing before final assembly.

Gut the stand you say? ;-)
IMG_20181218_113326.jpg


The two upright pieces were held by cam locks on the top and two screws each on the bottom. Easy Peasy. I have left that cardboard back on for now because it ads some stability. I plan on taking it off and having an open back except for some cross braces on the top and bottom. I will be ading screws to the cam lock system just because it's old and they are a little loose and can loosen over time.


IMG_20181218_113914.jpg


Here is a rough mockup. Sump on the left. I have this skimmer coming. I know it's not the best, but it should be better than the Coralife HOB filter/skimmer I have now. I am still working on baffles and what I want to do there. The two flour canisters are there to mock up a small shelf for the dosing pump (it will be a little higher), and the empty space on the right will be for a small ATO reservoir that will pump into the sump. Surge protectors will be hung on the outside in the space on the left side next to the wall.
So, I think the next steps for me are:
  • Brace the back and tighten existing joints. I am thinking one piece along the top, and another at the height I want the dosing pump shelf as a rear support. Then two small upright supports on the front side and I can use the space under the shelf for test kits, etc. Since I don't want any diagonal pieces, I will put some small L-brackets as well as screwing the braces into the back piece.
  • Figure out if I want a 2-chamber or 3-chamber sump. I'd like to move my heater in there. I know with a cheaper skimmer, microbubbles can be a problem and baffles might be necessary, but I have also read about problems if your return pump chamber is too small.
  • Decide on the shelf for the dosing pump. If I make it in the center, it will function and give me more open space for the ATO reservoir. If I connect the shelf supports running lengthwise to the right side, then I think I will have a bit more support. I would only make the shelf itself a little bigger than the pump and have the ATO shorter than intended.
  • Think about future things like Reef-pi.
Another option would be to put the ATO in the center and put the dosing pump all the way to the right, but that seemed like a lot of airline tubing rather than the one ATO return to the sump.

Would love thoughts or ideas or feedback. This is my first rodeo with this kind of thing.
 

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You’re off to a great start!! IMO I would place the sump and ATO in the same portion of the stand and the riser on the opposite side. I don’t have a doser, but, I would suggest turning it 90 degrees to face you at the front of the stand. Then each container is easily accessible. Another option on the other side of the stand would be to put the doser sideways towards the front but leave it open to easily get to the containers. And set back further in the stand all of the controllers or outlets etc. If you have a divider between sump/ATO and the power cords/doser, you can get an individually controlled surge protector. You can then mount it and labels all the plugs to turn off certain equipment when necessary.
 
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You’re off to a great start!! IMO I would place the sump and ATO in the same portion of the stand and the riser on the opposite side. I don’t have a doser, but, I would suggest turning it 90 degrees to face you at the front of the stand. Then each container is easily accessible. Another option on the other side of the stand would be to put the doser sideways towards the front but leave it open to easily get to the containers. And set back further in the stand all of the controllers or outlets etc. If you have a divider between sump/ATO and the power cords/doser, you can get an individually controlled surge protector. You can then mount it and labels all the plugs to turn off certain equipment when necessary.

Thanks. On the left side where the legs stick out are where I am planning on putting the surge protectors. All the pumps are on a smart plug controlled by Alexa, so I can turn them off by voice command easily. I see what you are saying about putting the doser on the right. So, it looks like I need to decide how big my ATO reservoir is going to be.

I also just had the thought if I had the doser facing the front on the right, maybe I can find something like a shower caddy to keep my test kits together in front of the doser. Instead of having to unload everything to refill supplements, I can just lift the caddy out.
 
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shollis2814

shollis2814

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OK, I am not really a woodworker, though I have helped on some projects and learned some. Today, however, I really feel good about what I got accomplished and the way I did it. Sometimes I get confused, or cut corners, or make simple mistakes, and to be honest, that keeps me from attempting a lot of DIY stuff.

Once I took the cardboard backing off, the whole thing got really wobbly, even with the cams tightened up. I knew just putting more screws in wasn't going to help, so stability was the first task.
IMG_20181219_100503.jpg


I ran a thin strip of wood across the back, and then cut the corner braces and used a square to level everything as best I could. I also found some scrap that were cut into some perfect right triangles which fit perfectly. They are in later pictures.

IMG_20181219_123116.jpg


Next I roughed everything out. The green food container is just over 1.5 gallons and fits the footprint of space I will have for the ATO reservoir. I have it for now (and got the wife some more storage containers). I found some taller, but none of them said BPA free and I wasn't going to chance it. I took y'alls advice and decided to put the dosing pump on the right. I noticed that the holes for one of the pre-fab upright partitions lined up where I could use it, but I decided against it because it would have made the airline tubing from the doser hard to route and not give me a lot of room. So...
IMG_20181219_145830.jpg

I also found some routed pieces I had kept from an earlier project that I didn't end up using. They were just a couple of inches longer than the doser, so I decided to try to use a slat method of shelving to keep from having to dig out the table saw (which I am still not good at using). I had to buy 2 pieces of 1/8" thick wood for the slats, but they fit perfectly and I had enough to run a piece across the back to keep the doser from being pushed out the back end. You can see the wooden brace I put in each back corner here, too.

IMG_20181219_150007.jpg


And here is the final layout. The next step is to seal up all the exposed MDF, put a couple of coats of Killz-2 on it and then some black paint.
The skimmer and overflow box are coming Friday as well as a baffle kit for the sump. Can any of you advise me on a preference of PVC vs tubing? I believe I am only going to have about 3-3.5' of needed lift for the return pump and I am afraid the 350 gph one I have is going to be too strong for the overflow I ordered. That's another day of testing. I may also have room for a HOB UV sterilizer I was using on my old tank in the sump, too. Still debating about that. It is low priority.
 

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Looks great! Keep it up. Just have to do enough to keep it sturdy since no weight will be on the top of this stand. As far as plumbing, stick with hard pvc for overflow, emergency overflow and for most of the return. Only tubing I would use is a barb on the pump to a barn onto return line to isolate vibration. IMO use braided tubing to prevent collapse of the tubing (doubt it would be an issue but hey, it could avoid it even in the slightest). You can run the pvc for what ever size the overflow accepts. Then use a gate valve on the overflow to tune the water flow to match the pump. Or if the pump is adjustable, you set it to where you want your flow and then dial everything in.
 

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I’d put a partition between the sump/ATO area and the dosing/outlet/storage section or run a brace on the underside of the top of the entertainment center. It is already starting to sag under its own weight. It will get worse with time. Humidity from the sump and spray from the return and skimmer will accelerate it.
 

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