I hate ATOs, please tell me which ones you like and why -

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BanjoBandito

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I can’t tell if that’s sarcasm or short bus…
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ZombieEngineer

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Apex 100% you can either use float switches or the ATK. Either way, with a little programming for failsafes and alarms, this is hands down the most reliable way to do ATO in the hobby.

For a pump, I use an old litermeter3 on one tank and an avast diagram pump on another (these two tanks pump from the basement) and an aqualifter on my biocube.

This is an example for 2 optical sensors, 1 high sump float that triggers a seperate virtual outlet. And 1 float in my reservoir that stops it when it's empty.

Fallback OFF
Set ON
If ATOhig CLOSED Then OFF
If ATOlow CLOSED Then OFF
If Output HIGHwater = ON Then OFF
If LowROD OPEN Then OFF
Defer 000:10 Then ON
Defer 000:30 Then OFF
Min Time 030:00 Then OFF
When On > 010:00 Then OFF

If it runs too long, I get an alert. If it doesn't run for a while, I have a seperate VO Set up to alert me of that.

Every now and then a sensor can get gunked up. I get an alert when this happens, give it a quick brush with a toothbrush and everything is back to normal.
 
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HuduVudu

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@BanjoBandito the safest, easist way that I have found is to use a dosing pump. This works well to get a constant movement and even though it isn't exact you can easily test weekly and change the doser accordingly.

If I really wanted to get crazy I could put a sensor on my controllor and then set the doser a bit above what I expect and then control that way.

All ATO's suck and after watching many many failures online I would never use one no matter how good the marketing is.

My 2 cents.
 

TheHunterYall

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I personally did not love the tunze. Gravity is best or back in the day I had a jug set up that kept suction with a stopper that had a tube to air and a tube to sump. I now use hydros, o problems but can get complicated if you add backups, etc. which I do if your in to that sort of thing.
 

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I used a DIY set-up using two float switches (wired in series), a solenoid, and a mechanical float valve (safety) for many years. It was always bulletproof. BUT... When I bought a new sump, I didn't want to drill holes for the acrylic so I bought a Tunze 3155. No regrets. I would recommend this ATO. It is just flat out the best on the market. The option to use a solenoid rather than a pump is worth investigating for use in gravity fed systems.
 

SPS2020

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I have used a Litremeter exclusively for over 20 years.
Only adjustment needed is between summer & winter because of humidity difference & then it's an easy push of a few buttons.
Made in the USA & repairable if needed.
Yepper, love mine. Too bad they "improved" it from the original.
 

NowGlazeIT

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I can't seem to find a "trust worthy" ATO. I'm currently running a reefbreeders that's not the prism, it's the magnet with the eye piece, and it's constantly missing the mark. My system is big enough that I usually catch it pretty quick. I'm running an apex but their ATO seems like waaaay too many pieces. I want something simple. I also have an old Tunze ozmolater laying around, but I think it's the nano version, it's also caked in kalkwasser (don't ask). So I guess I'm in the market for a new ATO. I've never found one that makes me warm and fuzzy.
Gravity fed, paired with a float valve.
 
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BanjoBandito

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Apex 100% you can either use float switches or the ATK. Either way, with a little programming for failsafes and alarms, this is hands down the most reliable way to do ATO in the hobby.

For a pump, I use an old litermeter3 on one tank and an avast diagram pump on another (these two tanks pump from the basement) and an aqualifter on my biocube.

This is an example for 2 optical sensors, 1 high sump float that triggers a seperate virtual outlet. And 1 float in my reservoir that stops it when it's empty.

Fallback OFF
Set ON
If ATOhig CLOSED Then OFF
If ATOlow CLOSED Then OFF
If Output HIGHwater = ON Then OFF
If LowROD OPEN Then OFF
Defer 000:10 Then ON
Defer 000:30 Then OFF
Min Time 030:00 Then OFF
When On > 010:00 Then OFF

If it runs too long, I get an alert. If it doesn't run for a while, I have a seperate VO Set up to alert me of that.

Every now and then a sensor can get gunked up. I get an alert when this happens, give it a quick brush with a toothbrush and everything is back to normal.
This is what I was going to ask you yesterday on the APEX! My man!
 
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BanjoBandito

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When it comes to ATOs there is the Tunze 3155 and then everything else is 5 nothces down from that.

I run the ReefBreeders EXO ATO on my 250g and it works just fine. My 3155 will replace it soon when I tear down my 120.
I'm going to run the EXO on my nano. I think it'll be "fine" for that. It just doesn't seem to wanna respond sometimes. No idea. It is plugged into my apex so I don't know if that's causing grief.
 
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BanjoBandito

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Apex 100% you can either use float switches or the ATK. Either way, with a little programming for failsafes and alarms, this is hands down the most reliable way to do ATO in the hobby.

For a pump, I use an old litermeter3 on one tank and an avast diagram pump on another (these two tanks pump from the basement) and an aqualifter on my biocube.

This is an example for 2 optical sensors, 1 high sump float that triggers a seperate virtual outlet. And 1 float in my reservoir that stops it when it's empty.

Fallback OFF
Set ON
If ATOhig CLOSED Then OFF
If ATOlow CLOSED Then OFF
If Output HIGHwater = ON Then OFF
If LowROD OPEN Then OFF
Defer 000:10 Then ON
Defer 000:30 Then OFF
Min Time 030:00 Then OFF
When On > 010:00 Then OFF

If it runs too long, I get an alert. If it doesn't run for a while, I have a seperate VO Set up to alert me of that.

Every now and then a sensor can get gunked up. I get an alert when this happens, give it a quick brush with a toothbrush and everything is back to normal.
I don't TOTALLY understand the VO setups....but I'll dig into it here. If you have any advice or guidance please let me know.
 

ZombieEngineer

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A little dated (the latch section has been superceded by the When command that did not exist when I wrote this guide), but this is a pretty comprehensive guide I made on all the failsafes you can do with the apex for ATO.


I would suggest to start you do a manually resetting latch with the When command like I showed in that earlier post and then also incorporate Stuck switch detection for alarming.
 

92Miata

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Absolutely hated the tunze. The Tunze ATO pump has to be the lowest quality pump in the entirety of the reef industry. Its loud and unreliable (seriously, its an off the shelf 12v marine bilge pump/baitwell pump).I ended up replacing the pump with a spare AutoAqua pump I had and that was fine, but way too much money given the low quality of the included parts.

Have the AutoAqua ATO on two tanks - both have been going for 3 years or so, and not a single problem. Have a Hydros one on the 3rd tank, pretty sure its the same pump and sensor as the autoaqua (with a little more configurability/reporting/etc) and its been fine.
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

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For me the tunze nano worked great for a year and half, until water somehow got into the controller box and damaged it. Its too bad, it was very reliable.

So I replaced it 2 months ago with Hydros ATO system to go along with my Hydros, so far its very reliable, and I've had no issue's.

My other tank uses the Smart ONE ATO, which has been remarkably impressive for the low price. Five months with it so far and no issue's.
 

X-37B

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I run Tunze ato's on 3 systems. The one on my 45 frag system is 6 years old and its the nano.
I run the nano on my nano. I run the optical version on my old 120 which is now an 80g. Never had an issue. That said they will all be replaced by the new Tunze ato as soon as its available. The old ones will be backup.
 
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BanjoBandito

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For me the tunze nano worked great for a year and half, until water somehow got into the controller box and damaged it. Its too bad, it was very reliable.

So I replaced it 2 months ago with Hydros ATO system to go along with my Hydros, so far its very reliable, and I've had no issue's.

My other tank uses the Smart ONE ATO, which has been remarkably impressive for the low price. Five months with it so far and no issue's.
I always respect From Software fans' opinions, as we are masochists.
 

ZombieEngineer

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2016, I understand making them but I’m not totally grasping what they do. I’m dense.
They are for intermediate programming steps or to combine functions.

Ex I want to alarm when I have a high sump level but I turn my returns off for feeding and it takes a few minutes for level to normalize after I turn it back on. so I don't want to alarm when that happens, so I use a VO instead

HighWater
Set OFF
If HighSmp OPEN Then ON
If Output Return = OFF Then OFF
Defer 005:00 Then ON

Email
If Output HighWater = ON Then ON
 
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