I have a feeling I know what it is - but I’d like to ask just to make sure

[LeonThePeon]

If your tank is already cycled then you shouldn't have to do water changes as often. You would still have to do them, but it would be on an as-needed basis. As long as you don't have any rock or other things that will absorb copper in the QT, then you should be good as long as you have somebody to do the occasional water change if needed and feed and top off the tank. Most people can handle that if you explain it to them.

I was hoping to do TTM instead this time - I’m hoping that it can give me a little more wiggle room/time, because when I did Cupermine - I was having to balance out the Cu every other day. I’m worried that even if I do have them in cycled water right now, if I start Cu, I won’t really know if the levels drop too much before I can get back to check. (And have to start 30 day clock over again).

Is my logic on the right track?

 

[melypr1985]

I was hoping to do TTM instead this time - I’m hoping that it can give me a little more wiggle room/time, because when I did Cupermine - I was having to balance out the Cu every other day. I’m worried that even if I do have them in cycled water right now, if I start Cu, I won’t really know if the levels drop too much before I can get back to check. (And have to start 30 day clock over again).

Is my logic on the right track?

It's not off track. As humble stated, as long as you can pull off the proper transfers every 3 days after your trips, then they should be good. But it presents it's own challenges where Prime and water changes are likely to be needed while you are out of town. Careful feeding to prevent ammonia spikes as well. Either way you go, it should be thought out and whoever will be watching the tank should be prepped.

 

[dannyfish]

I would do hyposalinity, it always worked for me.

 

[Crashjack]

Just a clarification... my understanding from reading posts from Humble and Meredith was that liquid Prazi couldn't be used with CP but in powder form (e.g. General Cure), the two could be used together. Personally, I've done it twice with no issues. This doesn't address the situation with the Hippo tang, but I wanted to make sure I (and maybe others) understood correctly.

 

[LeonThePeon]

If I’m doing TTM and set up my two tanks like this example from Humble’s thread:

Do I have to worry about aerosol transmission of ick between tanks (when using an air stone, not a HOB filter)? Let’s say fishes are in tank 1 - by the end of Day 2, I was planning on setting up tank 2 to give it time to warm up and aerate with the air stone - then put the fishes in the next day.

 

[Humblefish]

Do I have to worry about aerosol transmission of ick between tanks (when using an air stone, not a HOB filter)? Let’s say fishes are in tank 1 - by the end of Day 2, I was planning on setting up tank 2 to give it time to warm up and aerate with the air stone - then put the fishes in the next day.

That is a no-no. Tank 2 must be at least 10 feet away from Tank 1 (due to aerosol transmission). Or Tank 2 can be setup on the fly, after Tank 1 has been drained and moved out of the way. To accomplish "on the fly"... Turn off the air stone in Tank 1 (fish will be fine for 30-45 mins), leave 2 or so inches of water for the fish to swim around, go wash your hands thoroughly and then go about setting up Tank 2 in a timely manner. I used to do TTM this way all the time.

 

[LeonThePeon]

That is a no-no. Tank 2 must be at least 10 feet away from Tank 1 (due to aerosol transmission). Or Tank 2 can be setup on the fly, after Tank 1 has been drained and moved out of the way. To accomplish "on the fly"... Turn off the air stone in Tank 1 (fish will be fine for 30-45 mins), leave 2 or so inches of water for the fish to swim around, go wash your hands thoroughly and then go about setting up Tank 2 in a timely manner. I used to do TTM this way all the time.

How close in water temp do I have to be when setting up on the fly? I am guessing I would still be scooping the fishes up from Tank 1 and dropping them into Tank 2?

 

[Humblefish]

How close in water temp do I have to be when setting up on the fly? I am guessing I would still be scooping the fishes up from Tank 1 and dropping them into Tank 2?

Within 2 °F

I use a square plastic colander to move the fish:

 

[LeonThePeon]

$1.50 at Daiso! Woo hoo - lets me see where the fishes are while catching really nicely.

So far - everybody is looking good... Accept I started seeing some spots on the yellow tang this morning:


The brownish spot on the bottom of the back fin looks like maybe he was nipped at; but the other white spots are ich?

I’m guessing that throughout the TTM process, you may still continue to see the ich on the fish and the trophonts would fall off during the process; but does that restart the clock? I would guess not, because you’re still allowing the trophonts to fall off the fish and getting the fish out before theronts are released?

I’m also guessing that if by the time the next transfer time comes and the trophonts has not fallen off, to maybe do an earlier transfer on the next one once I see them fall off?

Or is this looking like Lymph? Maybe caused from the stress of going from tank to tank?

Thanks!

 

[Humblefish]

The white spots look more like Lympho to me. The brown spot could be the start of a bacterial infection: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bacterial-infections.191511/

 

[LeonThePeon]

Just an update - all the fishes seem to be doing well. End of Day 12 will be in 5hrs.

Question though - how quickly can Lymph fall off from better water quality?



All but 2 spots are still on the yellow tang - These two are still on, so I’m guessing it’s more likely to be lymph than ich (thank goodness).

(Small specks is just bubbles/dirty glass/something in water - After taking the pictures and looking more closely, I had to go back to double check too)


I’m not sure how well Prime works though. Yesterday, the ammonia level was pretty high (4ppm) and I used Prime; about 2hrs later - testing the water showed no change - so I did a 50% water change. It’s around 1ppm this morning and I dosed 2x recommended dose to test again. Not sure how long it takes for it to take effect, but we’ll see in an hour or so.

 

[Humblefish]

Question though - how quickly can Lymph fall off from better water quality?

This varies greatly from fish to fish. Some only show symptoms for a few days; with others it can linger on for weeks or even months sometimes... The initial outbreak is always the worst.

I’m not sure how well Prime works though. Yesterday, the ammonia level was pretty high (4ppm) and I used Prime; about 2hrs later - testing the water showed no change - so I did a 50% water change. It’s around 1ppm this morning and I dosed 2x recommended dose to test again. Not sure how long it takes for it to take effect, but we’ll see in an hour or so.

Q: I am using Prime® to control ammonia but my test kit says it is not doing anything, in fact it looks like it added ammonia! What is going on?
A: A Nessler based kit will not read ammonia properly if you are using Prime®... it will look "off scale", sort of a muddy brown (incidentally a Nessler kit will not work with any other products similar to Prime®). A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime®), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away. However, the best solution ;-) is to use our MultiTest™ Ammonia kit; it uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime® or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from total ammonia (total ammonia is both free ammonia and non-toxic ionized forms of ammonia).

Source (FAQ tab): http://www.seachem.com/prime.php

 

[LeonThePeon]

Source (FAQ tab): http://www.seachem.com/prime.php

Ah - That explains things. Thanks!

 

[4FordFamily]

Fish are looking better! I’m not sure how I missed this entire thread!

 

[LeonThePeon]

Ah poop - The two spots on the yellow tang are gone. I keep guessing myself as to whether it was lymph or ich - just having it be gone on the 3rd day of the new/last tank transfer... Trying to convince myself that it's just better water quality (water was "Insta" cycled for a few days - and ammonia has been less than 0.016ppm since they've been in (Seneye).

what do you guys think? 1 more tank transfer?

 

[Humblefish]

what do you guys think? 1 more tank transfer?

Yes, but observe for at least 1 month afterwards.

 

[LeonThePeon]

Yellow tang is on it’s way out I think. Was being a bit of a loaner and not eating, so I separated him into another 10G QT. Hasn’t eaten much in a while, despite introducing a variety of foods, in addition to soaking all the food in garlic/selcon. Starving itself so much you could see it’s skeleton

Red blotches started showing up - Ammonia levels are 0 - but I think it’s just too late. Found him this morning still breathing, but can’t really hold himself up. Did another major water change, but don’t think it’ll save him.

Stupid ich fallow - two down during this wait (Flame angel and likely YT by tonight).

Despite that - all the others are still hanging in there.

 

[LeonThePeon]

Unbelievable!! :mad:

Tank had been devoid of fishes for about 80 days. What was left of them have been happy and clear of any signs of problems. I get them back in the tank and about a week later, the hippo tang is showing signs of what I think is black ich again



Was going to take her out again to do a FW dip, but thought there must be an infestation of turbellarian worms. White looking spots are not raised, and the shrimp has been picking things off on the Hippo.

Question - is dosing the DT with Prazipro safe? Here’s a list of what’s in the DT:
Hippo tang
Kole yellow eye tang
Coral Beauty
Australian Torch
3 RBTA
Tree coral
2 conchs
1 shrimp

Cheato in the sump

I’m thinking if the tank was empty for almost 3 months and it still caught the hippo that quick - I’ve gotta treat the tank. Oversized UV filter didn’t do much apparently.

Thoughts?

 

[Maritimer]

Prazi-Pro has a reputation of being relatively reef-safe, though I've never personally used it in a display. Any worms that you value - feather dusters, spaghetti or hair worms, bristle worms - may be at risk, but corals and crustaceans should be OK.

~Bruce