Knight420
Active Member
I'm a huge idea guy, and love DIY. Here are a few ideas I have.
1. Using something similar to a in display refugium. A breeder box made of clear acrylic with many holes. Having some Dragons breath, Gracilaria, or another edible algae. The algae should grow through the holes. The fish could eat the growth that comes out of the holes, but the majority of the algae would be safe inside the box. That way it could function as an automatic live feeding station.
2. Using food grade epoxy to coat objects to use as decorations. I found a really nice Poseidon statue but it's brass. A solid water proof epoxy should seel it and prevent it from leaching anything.
3. Phytoplankton harvest. I was thinking I could use a screen that was small enough to stop the phytoplankton from going through. I'm having trouble finding a screen small enough to allow water but not phytoplankton. I'm not talking filter like in an rodi filter. Something like a brine shrimp screen smaller openings.
4. Same as before but with zooplankton. I wanted screens that would prevent the adult from passing through but allow the juvenile through. I'm meaning with rotifer, copepods, brine shrimp, and mysis shrimp.
5. Using macro algae with phytoplankton that copepods will eat in the copepods culture. I think they eat sea lettuce.
6. Using multiple breeds of phytoplankton, rotifer, and copepods in each culture. That way the coral and my dragonets have some variety to their food like they would find in nature.
7. Using a feeding dish with a Copepods hotel in the middle with an acrylic pipe leading down to deliver Copepods directly to the hotel. This will be for my dragonets. Since they are a slow eater. I could even add baby brine to the tube once the Dragonet gets used to the feeding dish.
8. Using a portable mini fridge and a bubbler to keep the phytoplankton and rotifer blind cold and alive. This in junction with a doser to feed every hour like WWC. I found a cheap 12v drink fridge with a perfect clear acrylic window in the front I could drill through for the tubes.
9. Using the same PAR, water parameters and temp as the display tank in my QT tank. That way I won't have to do a 2nd acclimation going from QT to display. Also using a UVC light in the filter for the QT.
10. Using WiFi cameras and microscopes to help with QT as well as the food cultures. I know about using a filter. I even found a 1000x WiFi microscope.
I think that's enough ideas for today. I can think of many more I could add to the list. Like using ocean waves white noise machine to help with the calming of the fish and inverts (not sure if coral can hear but deaf people can feel sound). The point is to make it as close to nature as possible. I even thought I could use a nozzle on my auto top off to spray water on the surface of the display tank to simulate rain. It wouldn't use that much pressure and it would only happen when the auto top off is active.
1. Using something similar to a in display refugium. A breeder box made of clear acrylic with many holes. Having some Dragons breath, Gracilaria, or another edible algae. The algae should grow through the holes. The fish could eat the growth that comes out of the holes, but the majority of the algae would be safe inside the box. That way it could function as an automatic live feeding station.
2. Using food grade epoxy to coat objects to use as decorations. I found a really nice Poseidon statue but it's brass. A solid water proof epoxy should seel it and prevent it from leaching anything.
3. Phytoplankton harvest. I was thinking I could use a screen that was small enough to stop the phytoplankton from going through. I'm having trouble finding a screen small enough to allow water but not phytoplankton. I'm not talking filter like in an rodi filter. Something like a brine shrimp screen smaller openings.
4. Same as before but with zooplankton. I wanted screens that would prevent the adult from passing through but allow the juvenile through. I'm meaning with rotifer, copepods, brine shrimp, and mysis shrimp.
5. Using macro algae with phytoplankton that copepods will eat in the copepods culture. I think they eat sea lettuce.
6. Using multiple breeds of phytoplankton, rotifer, and copepods in each culture. That way the coral and my dragonets have some variety to their food like they would find in nature.
7. Using a feeding dish with a Copepods hotel in the middle with an acrylic pipe leading down to deliver Copepods directly to the hotel. This will be for my dragonets. Since they are a slow eater. I could even add baby brine to the tube once the Dragonet gets used to the feeding dish.
8. Using a portable mini fridge and a bubbler to keep the phytoplankton and rotifer blind cold and alive. This in junction with a doser to feed every hour like WWC. I found a cheap 12v drink fridge with a perfect clear acrylic window in the front I could drill through for the tubes.
9. Using the same PAR, water parameters and temp as the display tank in my QT tank. That way I won't have to do a 2nd acclimation going from QT to display. Also using a UVC light in the filter for the QT.
10. Using WiFi cameras and microscopes to help with QT as well as the food cultures. I know about using a filter. I even found a 1000x WiFi microscope.
I think that's enough ideas for today. I can think of many more I could add to the list. Like using ocean waves white noise machine to help with the calming of the fish and inverts (not sure if coral can hear but deaf people can feel sound). The point is to make it as close to nature as possible. I even thought I could use a nozzle on my auto top off to spray water on the surface of the display tank to simulate rain. It wouldn't use that much pressure and it would only happen when the auto top off is active.
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