I know about the “ugly” stage of cycling but this is ridiculous.

[glb]

Yup.

I just ordered all 3. To be continued once I get them!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Turbo snails and an algae blenny. Reduce phosphates.
Speaking of phosphates, is this tank at or near a window?? Lastly what salt mix are you using?

 

[reeferfoxx]

Turbo snails and an algae blenny. Reduce phosphates.
Speaking of phosphates, is this tank at or near a window?? Lastly what salt mix are you using?

What kind of algae is growing?

 

[vetteguy53081]

What kind of algae is growing?

Chrystophitic hair algae. A sea hare may wipe it out for you but will soon starve thereafter. Low calcium and high phosphates are often triggers for this type of algae which begins with diatoms

 

[reeferfoxx]

Chrystophitic hair algae. A sea hare may wipe it out for you but will soon starve thereafter. Low calcium and high phosphates are often triggers for this type of algae which begins with diatoms

Although, there is a filamentous type of chrysophyte, I don't think excess phosphates is the reason. The tank is too new. I've never seen or heard of calcium have any impact on any type of algae either. Except for coralline algae.

 

[glb]

Turbo snails and an algae blenny. Reduce phosphates.
Speaking of phosphates, is this tank at or near a window?? Lastly what salt mix are you using?

Tank is not near a window, using regular Instant Ocean and phosphates are 0ppm using a Jann

Turbo snails and an algae blenny. Reduce phosphates.
Speaking of phosphates, is this tank at or near a window?? Lastly what salt mix are you using?

I have some turbos but so far they won’t touch it. I already have a Midas Blenny. In a 40g I’m thinking I can’t have another Blenny. What do you think?

 

[vetteguy53081]

You can but a lawnmower blenny who loves algae would be beneficial ( theyre not cute any any means but good workers with algae)

 

[glb]

You can but a lawnmower blenny who loves algae would be beneficial ( theyre not cute any any means but good workers with algae)

They’re ugly in a cute kind of way. What do I feed it once this algae’s under control?

 

[vetteguy53081]

They’re ugly in a cute kind of way. What do I feed it once this algae’s under control?

Nori/seaweed sheets

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Nori/seaweed sheets

In the last couple of years , along with the dino flagellate case increase , we’ve seen a ton of Chrysto cases that appear to stem from a nutrient limitation problem.
Po4 depletion most often , as food bleach acids pounds of gfo in reactors and lanth the dry rock to death is become extremely fashionable.

The bio filter appears to get starved out to the point that the problem alage is doing all the ammonia processing.
In most case , Po4 dosing , sometimes no3 as well , along with bacterial supplementation and manual removeal(by hand or critter) seem most effective over just manual removal alone.

I was skeptical as well but number of cases it’s worked has been extraordinary.

 

[glb]

In the last couple of years , along with the dino flagellate case increase , we’ve seen a ton of Chrysto cases that appear to stem from a nutrient limitation problem.
Po4 depletion most often , as food bleach acids pounds of gfo in reactors and lanth the dry rock to death is become extremely fashionable.

The bio filter appears to get starved out to the point that the problem alage is doing all the ammonia processing.
In most case , Po4 dosing , sometimes no3 as well , along with bacterial supplementation and manual removeal(by hand or critter) seem most effective over just manual removal alone.

I was skeptical as well but number of cases it’s worked has been extraordinary.

I have nitrate and phosphate dosing arriving today, along with Reef Flux. How should I go about this?

 

[glb]

In the last couple of years , along with the dino flagellate case increase , we’ve seen a ton of Chrysto cases that appear to stem from a nutrient limitation problem.
Po4 depletion most often , as food bleach acids pounds of gfo in reactors and lanth the dry rock to death is become extremely fashionable.

The bio filter appears to get starved out to the point that the problem alage is doing all the ammonia processing.
In most case , Po4 dosing , sometimes no3 as well , along with bacterial supplementation and manual removeal(by hand or critter) seem most effective over just manual removal alone.

I was skeptical as well but number of cases it’s worked has been extraordinary.

Do I need some Dr. Tim’s bacteria too?

 

[brandon429]

Handy trick: set a date in time where you won't accept the invasion any longer, then it's just simply killed off in a weekends work on that date vs any more purposefully keeping it

Best of both worlds: give the no work option a set amnt of time, then give it no more time. If it works without having to simply clean out the tank, great.

What's the date? Post updated tank pic I've been following along

I'd give till Halloween myself. Be invader free by Thanksgiving is a good plan. we'll have to pick a time of decision as to if it's working or not, a month sounds decent, any incremental success/dieoff of target should reveal in four more weeks after we begin adding ferts here right? what if cyano forms, would we keep it/how long...the action date ends all hesitation

The choice to be invader free by October 1st expired, my vote is we should pick end of month/

this thread is part of my pre work for an article on reef invasion causes / curious of the expected compliance dates predicted for this tank when he begins to dose nutrients, I noticed that completion dates have been unstated...important part of a plan to call out the move on time


I'm curious to see the tank example GLB is being advised from... where is his invasions being worked and cured somewhere else, link?

*We should be able to see at least one working example of this invasion being fixed before he begins dosing nutrients, that example thread helps him set his action date. Without a working example any actions here are guesses. What is the thread of examples you are picking your actions from Glb

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Do I need some Dr. Tim’s bacteria too?

The theory of competition is kinda unproven.
As I understand it. Bacterias in a tank will compete for resources. Eventually it’s believed (Randy & Dana etc) one will become dominant.
One and only has 7 strains.
So if it’s a problem organism your battling that’s depleted or out competed benifical ones , adding good one back in should help.
If not , it’s a placebo and honestly can’t hurt.

 

[brandon429]

team

What thread or pics are we pulling from for this turnaround, has there been a prior outbound fix doc'd for this fuzzy invdr by adding ferts that you or GLB has seen/link

 

[glb]

So should I dose the NO3 and PO4 first? Or do the Reef Flux? I’m not going to take out all the rocks and scrub them unless I absolutely have to. The one I did scrub has this stuff growing back already.

 

[reeferfoxx]

So should I dose the NO3 and PO4 first? Or do the Reef Flux? I’m not going to take out all the rocks and scrub them unless I absolutely have to. The one I did scrub has this stuff growing back already.

If in fact this is a form of chrysos(?)(unidentified), you can follow this thread. It was almost misdiagnosed as dinos. Start around page 2 or 3.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinos.446791/


FWIW I would start with nutrients.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Personally, I’d begin the nutrient dosing and the reefflux. As well as the bacteria. And get ready to change a lot of socks.

Manual removal (chemical in this case) , increase nutrients for bacteria, adding competing bacterias.

 

[brandon429]

i wouldn't expect the scrubbed one to do anything but grow back, that's not a technique we use either in my work threads

make a test rock comply first, different approach to test a finite cure date... not by scrubbing.


A test rock is neat because it lets you hold on overall to the 95% invasion, only letting go of one rock to be fixed without wait is fast feedback and no change to your larger experiment with the whole system including animals. The greater invasion can stay as a couple rock are worked.


A test rock tells you the biology of your invader, specific to your conditions at home. We watch it for growback after we treat it differently than before

if a couple test rocks can remain invader free while your others persist then a little work is providing big insight

 

[glb]

Personally, I’d begin the nutrient dosing and the reefflux. As well as the bacteria. And get ready to change a lot of socks.

Manual removal (chemical in this case) , increase nutrients for bacteria, adding competing bacterias.

This makes the most sense to me. It’s been delivered so I’ll start tonight. I’ll keep everyone posted!