I need some ideas on how to attach items to steel stands

outerbank

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For example; pipe clamps to support tubing, supports to hang light over a refugium under the stand, mounting a control board, cord management, supports for return tubing, etc. Stand will have wood cabinet wrap and 3/4 inch plywood on top and bottom. 72 by 30 by 36 tall stand. I am sure I can hang light items from the plywood under the tank, especially under areas where the tank is not in direct contact with the plywood. Thanks, Scott
 

benapilot

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I’m using exterior PVC trim boards found at Lowe’s.
I just screw them into the steel stand.

99B5C8DB-7C9C-4749-80F2-62AF5CA99E9D.jpeg


84280A0F-ACA6-48CB-9C71-D95F123FE4E9.jpeg
 

AlexG

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I would second the use of PVC boards as they are easy to work with and maintain a nice clean look. The only downside to the PVC trim board is that is flexible so it will not hold weight very well if spanned across a wide area without some supports. 80/20 Aluminum is also a go to as it has a vast array of fasteners that can work for almost any type of mounting.
 
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outerbank

outerbank

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Great recommendations! Is there a trick to screwing the boards into the steel rail? I assume a pilot hole is drilled and there must be a recommended screw type. What type and size screw would you recommend for 1.5 inch beams?
 

[Cameron]

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Do not drill into steel near a salt tank. Eventually salt water gets everywhere and even 316 steel rusts. Power coating, truck bed liner, etc will delay the rust but eventually you can count on it showing up. If salt water runs into threaded screws/bolts, it rusts from the inside out. You can try bedding the screws/bolts like we do on boats but even that has a nasty habit of shrinking over time and letting salt get in under the steel.

Basically the fewer holes you punch into steel near salt water the longer you will get before the inevitable.
 

LeftyReefer

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You can use Teks screws as @benapilot said

They make a few different kinds depending on how thick the steel is that you are drilling into.
The screws pictured above are for lighter gage steel. (TEKS 3) If your stand is thicker, they make some with finer threads (TEKS 5) that are able to drill into thicker steel like 3/16" or 1/4". no pilot hole necessary.
 

Rubberfrog

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As mentioned above, steel rusts. Especially cheap self tapping screws. Neodymium magnets are your friend here. Attach some pvc sheeting with magnets, and then use that to mount things to.
 
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outerbank

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OK, I feel the best solution is a PVC board to secure piping and using magnets to attach the board to stand. Next question is how many magnets do you feel are needed? I will have a 16 inch Tidewater external overflow with three 1 inch overflow pipes with valves and likely two 3/4 inch return lines. I found these magnets online. The stand is 1.5 inches square. Stand is 36 inch tall and there really are no pipe runs other than over the tank and stand. I suppose the board will be attached to the stand and then extend upwards about 12-18 inches above the stand and I obviously would not be able to use magnets to attach the part of the board that extends above the stand. Thanks! Will likely also hang a LED light over the refugium in the sump and also likely have a power board.
29C2B601-257B-486B-A8B5-3E3375A4E62F.jpeg
 
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stacksoner

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I’m using exterior PVC trim boards found at Lowe’s.
I just screw them into the steel stand.

99B5C8DB-7C9C-4749-80F2-62AF5CA99E9D.jpeg


84280A0F-ACA6-48CB-9C71-D95F123FE4E9.jpeg

Politely, what's the deal with the long diagonal return pipe? It would look pretty fresh if you tried to rework the design here to make it look like all the other vertical lines in your setup. Maybe reconfigure the sump for paths of least resistance. Just some feedback brother
 

benapilot

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Is the asymmetry making your eye twitch? LOL. ;Wacky
I get it, and it bothered me, too, for a minute....
1. Shorter distance to the return. (Although, now that the pumps are running, I’ve got PLENTY of head pressure for another 90!)
2. I put my Kalk reactor back where the other 90 would have been. More space for other stuff by running that pipe at a 45.
3. Nobody looks back there, but me, and I’m ok with it. (LOL, I must care some, otherwise I’d have done cheap white sch. 40 pipe :p).

Thanks for the feedback! It’s all good!
I just got everything running with rock and fish today, so no changing now!
 

SteveMM62Reef

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Velcro, use non-water base contact cement. Coat the Stand, let it dry, recoat that area and coat the Velcro. As soon as it looses it’s gloss, attach the Velcro to the stand.
 

Staghorn

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I personally would drill and tap the stand and use stainless machine screws. If you’re worried about water getting into the holes lightly brush some epoxy over the areas were you drilled after the screws are in place. Once coated in epoxy the water won’t get in. And if you ever have to back out to screw the torque will crack the epoxy and you can get the screws out clean
 

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