I think I should start over

[reeferfoxx]

I may be in the minority but the increased nitrate/phosphate is a good sign.

I'm with you

 

[dantimdad]

We must both be in the minority then.

 

[reeferfoxx]

We must both be in the minority then.

Nah. If you've ever visited the dino threads, there are more of us Many acro growers are shifting back to higher nutrients as well.

 

[dantimdad]

It's hilarious that people will do anything to remove 100% of the phosphates from dry rocks, then dose phosphates because they are low. Or, they are always chasing an issue they can't figure out and I would bet it's super low nutrients.

 

[pdiehm]

It's hilarious that people will do anything to remove 100% of the phosphates from dry rocks, then dose phosphates because they are low. Or, they are always chasing an issue they can't figure out and I would bet it's super low nutrients.

I just look at it as the dying off algae isn’t using it up as fast which is a sign that he is winning the battle.

 

[Mike1995]

There are a ton of low to medium light corals out there.

Also, keep in mind, that even with light a little bit less strong than you would like, you can extend photo period to compensate... to an extent.

I am not suggesting that you keep acros under low light at all. Just saying, once the tank is stable and things straighten out, we can go over what you like the looks of and give suggestions.

Start building a stocking list of what you would really like to keep. There are a lot of us that will help you get there.

BTW, don't add anything yet. We are on a slow and steady path to getting things right. Stay the course.

Alright thank you

 

[brandon429]

Can we see detailed update pics Mike pls

I track for pattern watching all cyano battle threads that do not clean the tank of detritus as the first action. (where no rocks can be swished around inside the tank and produce cloudy castoff nor the sand grabbed and dropped with a massive clouding)

I can tell a lot from just a full tank shot and some substrate close ups, good for science to track various modes of address. From the time frames and pics from page two until today's update pics, that span tracking is cyano battle gold. We want to be able to compare across time frames how de clouded systems respond comparatively.

 

[Mike1995]

It's hilarious that people will do anything to remove 100% of the phosphates from dry rocks, then dose phosphates because they are low. Or, they are always chasing an issue they can't figure out and I would bet it's super low nutrients.

Yeah.. i was one of those people who followed advice elsewhere of taking the phospates out of rock.. eh it didnt help

 

[dantimdad]

I still say that it's best to start with real live rock if you can. Problem is, it's expensive and you can get some nasty hitch hikers. Still, it's worth it if possible.

I am using dry rock and sand but, I am going to seed it with a known good source of live rock that has been established for quite a while.

 

[Mike1995]

Heres the tank now. I have to go stir the sand bed again. But the rocks aside from the two in the middle are cleared up. Its almost gone from thw glass and overflow.

 

[brandon429]

It looks great man, no start over

I see a cerith, doing his job

 

[dantimdad]

Heres the tank now. I have to go stir the sand bed again. But the rocks aside from the two in the middle are cleared up. Its almost gone from thw glass and overflow.

That looks fantastic!

Good job!

I hate to tell you we told you so, but...

 

[pdiehm]

yep, getting there. keep working at it.

My fun is just beginning as my tank is at the end of the cycle, barebottom with 100% dry rock. gonna be a bit for this thing to age.

 

[Mike1995]

It looks great man, no start over

I see a cerith, doing his job

I have tons of ceriths, nerites and two turbo snails, they mow everthing down. Used to have hermits in there too but they made the fish and corals mad so theyre all in the sump now

 

[Mike1995]

Thanks everyone

 

[Mike1995]

I was wondering, can i go without a heater in the 30g trash can i use for rodi and mixing? They just cranked the heat on at my place and its like 80 degrees inside. Normally i put a heater and a powerhead in the night before s water change to circulate everything

 

[dantimdad]

I would leave it in there just in case.

 

[SkinnyMcGinny]

If you do have dinos (I can't tell from those photos), here is my advice. Lower you expectations for a fast, magic cure, but, know that you can ride it out and beat them. I once battled a MAJOR dino outbreak for about 6-8 months. Snotty bubbly slime everywhere. Didn't kill fish or corals but looked disgusting. IMHO, Dinos are very difficult to get rid of until something else outcompetes them, and takes their place. I actually think they really take off when tanks are new and relatively "clean".

In my case, to get rid of them, I actually fed the tank heavy, limited water changes, and let green hair and turf algae start to grow. Then, after awhile, it almost looked like the dinos "converted" to a green algae (The green stuff started growing up under them). Then I added a half dozen turbo snails, they went to town on the green stuff... and the dinos were gone, never to seen again. But that was 6 brutal months.

Here's what did not work: Blackouts-- they just come back, and I went total blackout for 8 days one time! Water changes -- almost seem to make them worse! Any additives, or parameter changes-- need worked. My dino's were very light sensitive, once the lights came on they exploded every day.

Just brace yourself for a long fight. You can do it. My tank has been dino (and trouble free) for 3 years now!! Totally worth the bumpy first 18 months (that's what it was with me).

Hang in there, and know this will take a while...

 

[leptang]

@Mike1995 i would test the alkalinity calcium and magnesium if you have the test now. Alkalinity is important you don't want it to be high or low. Natural sea water average is about 7 dKH.
Test kits are not 100% accurate so many reef tanks are ran at around 8 dKH so if your test kit is off by 1 dKH
It will be with in the range of 7-9 dKH.
If the alkalinity drops below 7 corals start to melt away, if the alkalinity becomes to high it can burn and kill corals like your zoas.

As far as the what type of phosphate test kit you use like Salifert its test results may be off if the alkalinity isn't at or near 7 dKH.

So i personally test for both so i know the test is more accurate

You can end up with issues with algae, dino's or cyano if you are unaware of the phosphate and nitrates, alk, cal, mag. Really you want a balanced proper water chemistry to promote a healthy diverse bacteria population and micro fauna, pods, snails and such, (bottom feeders). To out compete the bad and ugly stuff that can grow.

Trying to match natural sea water is a good idea other than nitrates and phosphates
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/

I kind of feel like your waters alk maybe a little high if your zoas are closed up but i might be wrong.

Hope this helps.

 

[Mike1995]

Is there a way to move this thread elsewhere to make it a build thead?

I got a coral beauty Angel I've been watching him for months at my lfs.

Also my tank. Eh.. I've noticed the dinos turning gray and I guess dying. The snails are then eating it. I assume that's a good thing?
I think I have bryopsis growing on one of my rocks. It's just sitting in the back corner, hasn't spread. How do I go about getting rid of it? I actually had it before and ripped it all out by hand and so far this is all that's come back