I think I'm in over my head, I need some expert opinions!!

[ellismac]

Hey all,
I think my tank is in trouble. There are a few things I am really nervous about. This may be a long thread so my apologizes.. so here goes. Pictures attached for reference of what I am talking about.

ALGAE ISSUES
1. There is a neon green algae just below the surface of the sand bed that has started to grow on the glass, is this ok? I have never seen that color before in the tank.. Also speaking of glass algae, I tend to have ALOT of it, and it grows very quickly. I have 4 Trochus snails (from my last count) and a spiny sea urchin but it doesn't seem as they can keep up with it. I also have 2 decent sized beds of green hair algae on my rocks. Should I remove all the green hair algae?? ((The guy I got the tank from said that its ok to have it in the tank)). Is the green hair algae the culprit for all the excess glass algae? **To note; to the best of my knowledge I am not over feeding, my fish crew are voracious eaters and everything I put in the tank at feeding is gone within minutes, and if not my crabs and shrimp get after it.

CORAL ISSUES
2. I just got the Hanna testing kits and my nitrate levels are through the roof ((cant even render on the meter)) and my calcium levels are at 540ppm. PH, phosphate, alkalinity, salinity are all within range. Obviously I have to do a water change. That is in the works now, waiting for the water to get to temp. But I have unfortunately noticed a few of my corals are dying off!!!! When they start dying back is it over? Can they recover?? I know the water change is a must... but am I doing something wrong? I also did as much research of placement in the tank for each type as I could. I Put a dose of reef roids in the tank 2-3x a week. I have not been target feeding though. The poor corals that are dying off are; Pulsing Xenia (that ones basically a goner), Lemon-Lime Favites, and Dragon Soul Prism Goniastrea. The corals that are doing fine are Blondies Zoas, green duncan, orange crush mushroom, cyclops galaxea, and fifth element blastomussa. The Zoa and the mushroom are doing the best out of all the corals in the tank, seeing some growth.. If I have already epoxied the frags down and you think they should be moved, whats the best way to pop the plug off of the epoxy that is already cured?

I'm sorry guys I know thats a lot of stuff going on but I really need some guidance because things are getting worse and I'm starting to lose hope I can sustain this tank! Please help! I know reversing what has taken months to take place will take the same if not more time to reverse i just need help getting there.

 

[T-J]

Manually remove as much algae as you can. Do a water change and get your nitrates down. Nitrates and phosphates, along with white/red/green spectrum light is what feeds algae. What exactly is your PO4 number?

 

[LuizW13]

I think the best thing you can do is not panic. Do a series of small water changes within the next week to get the water chemistry in the appropriate levels.

How old is the system and what salt are you using?

I think you should stop feeding Reef Roids for now, if the corals are not doing well, they're not going to eat it, and that could be contributing to your off the charts Nitrates.

 

[clifg]

Alrighty so:

#1 the green algae in the sand bed is totally normal.

#2 lowering your calcium and nitrate will help your coral and GHA issues. What kind of salt are you using? Are you dosing anything? What's the photo period on your lights? What kind of lights? What do you consider a dose of reef roids? What exactly are your other parameters?

Coral can certainly recover but changes need to be made. I would start with a 50% water change 20% now and the remaining 30%, 10% at a time over a 2-3 day period. Then retest.

 

[Queen City Corals]

Hey ellismac, could I get some more information on the tank like size, filter, fish inhabitants, and what lights/ schedule you are running. But to answer a few of your questions that algae in between the sand and glass is completely normal and nothing to worry about. I would recommend removing the two rocks with hair algae and scraping all the algae off of them while it is okay to be in the tank it can take over and looks unsightly, but the important thing to remember with that algae and the glass algae is that it is not harmful to fish or coral unless the hair algae starts to grow over the coral. I agree that you should stop feeding reef roids as that is only adding to your nutrients issues. Do a water change whenever your water is ready, and I would start making more. Are you using RODI water, if you are not I would recommend it as it can help to remove some of the nutrients that the algae use. Overall I think you are doing a great job not being complacent and taking action by asking questions and doing a water change! Good Luck and I hope this helps!

 

[Hincapiej4]

HOLD ON A MINUTE.

Don't worry about your calcium being 540. Yes bring it down, but let that happen naturally. It being that number isn't an issue.

It's your nitrates and phos that feeds algae.

 

[alain Bouchard]

what is your setup? what filtration? how old is your tank. Those should be the first question.

 

[ellismac]

Hey ellismac, could I get some more information on the tank like size, filter, fish inhabitants, and what lights/ schedule you are running. But to answer a few of your questions that algae in between the sand and glass is completely normal and nothing to worry about. I would recommend removing the two rocks with hair algae and scraping all the algae off of them while it is okay to be in the tank it can take over and looks unsightly, but the important thing to remember with that algae and the glass algae is that it is not harmful to fish or coral unless the hair algae starts to grow over the coral. I agree that you should stop feeding reef roids as that is only adding to your nutrients issues. Do a water change whenever your water is ready, and I would start making more. Are you using RODI water, if you are not I would recommend it as it can help to remove some of the nutrients that the algae use. Overall I think you are doing a great job not being complacent and taking action by asking questions and doing a water change! Good Luck and I hope this helps!

Alrighty so:

#1 the green algae in the sand bed is totally normal.

#2 lowering your calcium and nitrate will help your coral and GHA issues. What kind of salt are you using? Are you dosing anything? What's the photo period on your lights? What kind of lights? What do you consider a dose of reef roids? What exactly are your other parameters?

Coral can certainly recover but changes need to be made. I would start with a 50% water change 20% now and the remaining 30%, 10% at a time over a 2-3 day period. Then retest.

Manually remove as much algae as you can. Do a water change and get your nitrates down. Nitrates and phosphates, along with white/red/green spectrum light is what feeds algae. What exactly is your PO4 number?

I think the best thing you can do is not panic. Do a series of small water changes within the next week to get the water chemistry in the appropriate levels.

How old is the system and what salt are you using?

I think you should stop feeding Reef Roids for now, if the corals are not doing well, they're not going to eat it, and that could be contributing to your off the charts Nitrates.

Thanks for the replies, to answer all the questions:

Heres my chem stats from this morning:
Temp:76F
PH:8.3
Alkalinity: 9.4
Nitrate: undetectable on the high level.
PO4: 1.98ppm ----- i miss spoke on the OG post, i read the reading wrong.
Calcium: 540ppm
** Nirates, calcium and phosphates are high.***

I use instant ocean salt mix and mix it myself with RO water from the store. reading the directions and making sure gavity/salinity are between 1.020-1.024, and temp matches the tank.
I would imagine the tank its-self is over 10 years old it is a 72g bow front tank. I do not know how old the sump box is but i change/clean filters about once a week (not at the same time). The sump has a newish protein skimmer. I do not know the brand of skimmer but it definitely is working, as stated before I bought a used tank.
The light is a Current Orbit Marine LED light. I have it on 12hrs of full intensity, it has a 15 minute sunrise/sunset and 4 hrs of 10% blue moonlight after the 12hrs of day light.
For the reef roids double checking the recommended dosage I believe I mistook tsp for tbsp and have been overdosing. Thank you for having me recheck myself.

fish stock:
1 - 10+yr old damsel
1 - sixbar wrasse
1 - ruby head fairy wrasse ** the wrasses leave each other alone
2 - tomato clowns
3 - banggai cardinals
1- coral beauty dwarf angel
clean up crew:
1 - coral shrimp
1 - emerald crab
4-5 trochus snails
2 - hermits
Corals:
1 - cyclops galaxea
1 - dragon soul goniastrea
1 - fifth element blastomussa
1 - green duncan
1 - lemon lime favites
1 - orange crush mushroom
1 - pulsing xenia
1 - blondies zoanthids

I am concerned my lights aren't doing what I need them to do (they came with the tank). and maybe my sump equipment might be a bit outdated. below are pictures of my sump set up. Thanks again for all your input and follow up questions.

 

[alain Bouchard]

my first opinion would be lower daylight total time to about 8-10 hours max, and if you can adjust, lower especially the white channel. And stop reefroid completely for now until issue is resolved.
Your issue is phosphate and nitrate right now. Try testing water right after mixing, to be sure your store bought water is good. And dont worry about calcium.
edit: and, by the way, for corals, salinity should be more around 1.024-1.026

 

[davidcalgary29]

You might also consider dosing phyto and adding some (clean) macro. Halymenia is a great nutrient soak, and it's much prettier than chaeto.

 

[jft]

Consider daily water changes small at a time. Add Chemipure elite and polyfilter TM not FLOSS. Then upgrade your filter system as U can afford to do Use a sump without bioballs and use a BETTER Skimmer. Just my two cents But I been doing this for 35 years so I do have experience to know what works, Best of luck.

 

[WVNed]

Nothing you do is going to matter as long as all that light is coming in those windows. The fact the algae is growing on the side of your sand bed tells you where it is getting it's light from.

 

[ellismac]

Consider daily water changes small at a time. Add Chemipure elite and polyfilter TM not FLOSS. Then upgrade your filter system as U can afford to do Use a sump without bioballs and use a BETTER Skimmer. Just my two cents But I been doing this for 35 years so I do have experience to know what works, Best of luck.

I do have filter media above the bioballs when the tank water first hits the sump then it goes through the bioballs then through another filter then to the skimmer.. what is the ideal sump set up and a “better” skimmer. The sump system is still foreign to me regardless of how much I try to read up on it.

 

[ellismac]

Nothing you do is going to matter as long as all that light is coming in those windows. The fact the algae is growing on the side of your sand bed tells you where it is getting it's light from.

Unfortunately at the moment I do not have shades on the windows (( serious house remodel)) but when we get to that point there will be a shade on the window you see in the reflection for sure.

 

[lynaea75]

Ok, I’m gonna start by saying I haven’t read most of the other advice you got here
But first of all, the algae ‘under the sand’ is from the sunlight from the window(s) visible in several of your pics. If it’s really bothering you then buy curtains or shades, otherwise I wouldn’t worry too much, just expect that due to the extra light you will have to clean the glass more often, etc.

second, do you have the LR or HR nitrate Hanna kit? if it’s the LR (low range) than it only reads up to like 5 ppm without diluting. Just want to make sure your nitrates are as high as you think.

I personally don’t think your tank looks that bad. I would do a water change and manually remove what you can of that hair algae and then go from there.

Freaking out and making a bunch of big changes will just stress everything. Best to take it slow.

 

[clifg]

If you've been dosing a tbsp of reef roids that's your issue for the nitrates and phosphates. As a couple others pointed out chemi-pure elite will help you immensely and for corals your S.G. should be as close to 1.025 as you can get it. Looks like you are using a swing arm hydrometer? Might want to invest in a refractometer or if it's not too much a digital version like Milwaukee. Also as another user pointed out your tank really doesn't look too bad. Just remember in this hobby things take time and to take it slow.

 

[ellismac]

Ok, I’m gonna start by saying I haven’t read most of the other advice you got here
But first of all, the algae ‘under the sand’ is from the sunlight from the window(s) visible in several of your pics. If it’s really bothering you then buy curtains or shades, otherwise I wouldn’t worry too much, just expect that due to the extra light you will have to clean the glass more often, etc.

second, do you have the LR or HR nitrate Hanna kit? if it’s the LR (low range) than it only reads up to like 5 ppm without diluting. Just want to make sure your nitrates are as high as you think.

I personally don’t think your tank looks that bad. I would do a water change and manually remove what you can of that hair algae and then go from there.

Freaking out and making a bunch of big changes will just stress everything. Best to take it slow.

Thank you. Without diluting it (because I don’t have spare saltwater mixed) I have a LR checker but regardless it was a blood red color sooooo probably not great either way.

 

[ellismac]

If you've been dosing a tbsp of reef roids that's your issue for the nitrates and phosphates. As a couple others pointed out chemi-pure elite will help you immensely and for corals your S.G. should be as close to 1.025 as you can get it. Looks like you are using a swing arm hydrometer? Might want to invest in a refractometer or if it's not too much a digital version like Milwaukee. Also as another user pointed out your tank really doesn't look too bad. Just remember in this hobby things take time and to take it slow.

I’m just freaking out cause the corals are dying

 

[Lasse]

it was a blood red color sooooo probably not great either way.

Did you have black precipitation in the test tube?

Is your PO4 really 1.98ppm?

Sincerely Lasse

 

[cngh]

Have you tested the RO water you're getting from the store? What kind of store? If it's one of those vending machines outside the grocery, I'd be suspicious. But even LFS water can be suspect. RO is ok, but RODI is best. Also, how accurate is that swing arm? As high as ur calcium is, it may be bc that swing arm is not accurate. Can you get a refractometer or hydrometer? Or have the LFS test it?

Also, the sand bed looks pretty grimy. That can be a big nitrate and phosphate sink. When was the last time it was vacuumed? You don't have to do it all at once, but every water change just vacuum a small area. People might say don't disturb the sand bed, and they're right if they're meaning the entire sand bed all at once. But small areas you'll be fine.

Good luck.