I think its dead!!!! Purple and gold torch

redeyejedi

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Warning canister filters are not stable filters and can harbor nitrates and phosphates and I have seen cleaning them crash a tank if disturbed unless only carbon is in.
I only have a canister filter and a skimmer, i clean the canister filter every 3 days. Never had any issues doing so. If left to collect poop etc for weeks to a month then that would probably cause issues.
 

King Turkey

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I only have a canister filter and a skimmer, i clean the canister filter every 3 days. Never had any issues doing so. If left to collect poop etc for weeks to a month then that would probably cause issues.
The reason for canister filters is the build up factor. If nitrate and phosphate build up over time than clean it disturbs the system. Look at it like this. You have a deep sand bed you don't touch for let's say a year that you stir up the sand. All of the built up waste releases into the tank. Except with a filter it is constantly being poured into the tank. When you clean it it changes how the system is operating. You go from constant food for bacteria to only when you feed the fish/ corals. Second if there is beneficial bacteria on media and sponges in the canister you Potentially just killed em all off. Grant it if the rock work harbors enough it should not have a huge impact but some systems rely on that extra push. So now you have a clean canister not feeding the system what happens to that starving bacteria? It dies down. To a cleaner level. But you dump a ton of food in so you could spike the tank and over whelm the bacteria going from nutrient saturated to starved to saturated again. That instability can cause issues in tank's. Algae blooms. Sicknesses in corals. Cyno. Dinos. Diatoms. Ph and alk swinging like it was not before making the tank change and become lessDiatomaceous. The reef tank is all about stability keeping the parameters the same. Bacteria as well considering reeftsnks rely on a stable population of bacteria to filter and keep water none toxic. I would also include the fact that when the bacteria is going from high levels pH and alk suffer from elevated nitrates phosphates and algae growth at night when the light goes out releasing co2. Vs low nutrient no algae will be much more stable. More accurate to predict and testing of the water.
Just my 2 cents. From a scientific prospective. Bio/ marine bio major microbiologist minor.
 

King Turkey

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Again as for lights as others mentioned proper light hight and strength is important so simulate the sun's effects on the coral reef In the ocean. I would suggest renting a par meter or get a plug and play light like red sea reef led 90 can't rely gonwrong with them the mount arm is proper hight and the intensity is not overwhelming.
 

redeyejedi

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The reason for canister filters is the build up factor. If nitrate and phosphate build up over time than clean it disturbs the system. Look at it like this. You have a deep sand bed you don't touch for let's say a year that you stir up the sand. All of the built up waste releases into the tank. Except with a filter it is constantly being poured into the tank. When you clean it it changes how the system is operating. You go from constant food for bacteria to only when you feed the fish/ corals. Second if there is beneficial bacteria on media and sponges in the canister you Potentially just killed em all off. Grant it if the rock work harbors enough it should not have a huge impact but some systems rely on that extra push. So now you have a clean canister not feeding the system what happens to that starving bacteria? It dies down. To a cleaner level. But you dump a ton of food in so you could spike the tank and over whelm the bacteria going from nutrient saturated to starved to saturated again. That instability can cause issues in tank's. Algae blooms. Sicknesses in corals. Cyno. Dinos. Diatoms. Ph and alk swinging like it was not before making the tank change and become lessDiatomaceous. The reef tank is all about stability keeping the parameters the same. Bacteria as well considering reeftsnks rely on a stable population of bacteria to filter and keep water none toxic. I would also include the fact that when the bacteria is going from high levels pH and alk suffer from elevated nitrates phosphates and algae growth at night when the light goes out releasing co2. Vs low nutrient no algae will be much more stable. More accurate to predict and testing of the water.
Just my 2 cents. From a scientific prospective. Bio/ marine bio major microbiologist minor.
Some great info there thanks. Im no marine biologist by any means all i know is my tank has been up and running for 5 years, i dont dose anything i just do a 5% water change every other day if needed for alk. I also feed just once a day and clean the canister filter sponges every three days ish. I have lots of white sponge filter feeders in the canister and in my tank with happy coral. Like you say it all stays stable so thats the main thing.
 

King Turkey

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Some great info there thanks. Im no marine biologist by any means all i know is my tank has been up and running for 5 years, i dont dose anything i just do a 5% water change every other day if needed for alk. I also feed just once a day and clean the canister filter sponges every three days ish. I have lots of white sponge filter feeders in the canister and in my tank with happy coral. Like you say it all stays stable so thats the main thing.
Yes the stability is the main thing. As you mention the water changes you do is a great practice. You test regularly I assume and see the changes in the water chemistry. Those small changes vs a big change is a prim example of excellent husbandry. But let's say you wanna start dosing and do wc once a week instead. Make the changes slow big changes also make tank's stability less than desirable. Good work keeping it consistent. I am not sure if biology has much marrit in the hobby but just a little of my background. I would estimate 90% consist of chemistry. But I believe the biology has a impact on it.
I hope we can help with this tank in question from the op best we can. With a easy regiment schedule and husbandry keeping all sound and stable.
 
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StephyC09

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So the lights always face forward, towards the room, not downward into the tank, correct?

If so, I think you need to turn the lights (intensity) UP. Renting/borrowing a PAR meter would be advisable in this situation, since your mounting isn't going to be like anybody elses.

And have an LFS test for nitrates and phosphates, if possible, to confirm your test numbers would also be helfpful.
Yes the lights point out. We will look into the PAR meter!
 
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StephyC09

StephyC09

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First thing I want to point out is the canister filter and the bio wheel. First the bio wheel probly not doing much nor the canister filter. But the canister filter can act as a reactor and you can run carbon. I would use rock work as core filtration. Warning canister filters are not stable filters and can harbor nitrates and phosphates and I have seen cleaning them crash a tank if disturbed unless only carbon is in.That said the rocks have algae thus the phosphate and nitrate reads will be off. Api testing is not the most reliably. But listen you rely need to just wait. Stick with what you have in the tank don't add for a good wail till the rocks clear up maybe 6 months. The green will go away. As for top off goes I am not convinced it is stable enough drip slow 24/7 or alk and pH will swing way more than it should.. you either need to lock it down or invest in auto top off. It needs to be 1.025 all of the time and not change.
After seeing pictures of the set up I would dose dr tims waste away once a week as the bottle perscribs. you will tank me later. It will not only keep nitrates and phosphate low but keep water crystal clean and algae free.
Water changes I would highly recommend doing them once a week 10 percent of the total tank water. Mixed to the same 1.025 as the tank. The water needs to mix and have pH stabilize and come to the correct temp with a heater. Perhaps 1-2 hours of a power head mixing it and a heater warming it.
I know long rant. Just wanna help.
I have a all on one system also and I run carbon in a canister filter have a algae scrubber and a skimmer. My top up is drip method as well. Hear is my corals. Note I waited for the tank to get stable and ready first just take your time.
If you want I'll post my set up tomorrow. Filter and equipment for ideas. As for light I reef90 from red sea at 60 percent.
I appreciate all the info! We are new to the hobby and have read thinga on line, watched some Youtube ( BRS TV, Mr Saltwater Tank and more), plus talked to our local fish store. We are always looking to improve our tank. Right now it is very clear. Tomorow is another water change. We are also keeping a much better log of the water perameters to see changes. We typically let our salt water mix g or 24hrs before we add it to the take (for water changes). We are finishing up some salt that had gotten hard, we assume from moister some how , so we are not sure if that is affecting anything. Even letting it mix that long we have unresolved salt. We do have a heater in it as well. I just noticed our heater is at 77 for some reason... Will change that tomorrow. We were also looking at adding 1 more power head. We have hygger ones that we like but they are smaller and are wondering if we need more movement in the water as well.
 

Matt1997

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Remember when you posted your previous thread and I said you have it in to high of light? Then another member told me off saying it needs more lighting? Well I hope you didn’t listen to the other member.
 

King Turkey

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Good to hear if you have any questions about numbers watertesting just hit us up. Sometimes testing again helps reassure the test was right also. I have found myself even redoing a test. Just wondering what salt do you use?
 

zaq11

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I think its dying. Which is really weird bc it was looking so much better the other day ( Jan 12)! Its coming off its base First photo is today other two from 1/12

0114210823.jpg 0112210933_HDR.jpg 0112211445_HDR.jpg
sorry for the loss , for future , decrease the salinity to 1.025 and avoid direct current flow on the coral and keep the tank parameters within normal range
 
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StephyC09

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I have moved this thread over to the Reef Aquarium Discussion and it is titled "Trying to stabilize my tank....".
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

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