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I would like my acros to do better. Some advice would b great!

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Silverfish

Silverfish

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Do you dose any amino acids? I've found that aminos definitely upgraded my color game.
Yes . around every 5 days I use Acro power. I use a mix of several Acro and coral foods and just squirt into tank.
 
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What do you mean by spectrum shifts? I can see that you are using much more intensity but the light ramps up and down throughout the day?
 

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IMO even the coolest temp of MH bulb (currently 20K as far as I know) still emits too much white. It will boost acro growth, and give them good color. But if you want all the crazy rainbow color you have to either go with a smart T5 maneuver for a very blue/purple spectrum, or LED. You can combine MH with T5 or LED, but to me at that point why even bother. plus, the energy bill .... ugh.
Radiums and LEDs is game over.
 

jda

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Get back to the basics... stability and don't dose anything that you cannot test for. Change some water if you do not.

I would throw the element supplement in the trash unless you know what is in it and can test for all of it. The problem with those all-in-one supplements is that you, for example, might be driving manganese too high in order to get some iodine or strontium. You are better off just changing some water and introducing them that way, or dosing nothing at all.

I do NOT use LED over my display tanks, so take this to mean nothing, but when I extensively tried them, just ramping up for a bit, then steady and then, a short ramp down was about as good as it got. I would not get too cute with the schedule, but I also would not change anything too quickly.

Lastly, remember that N and P need to be available for the corals to use and residual levels mean nothing. Zoox cannot use nitrate, so they have to get their nitrogen from ammonia, so if you are not feeding your fish, then your corals are likely deprived of nitrogen even if you have no3 in the tank. Some P is needed and at .10, you are fine, so don't worry about this. Do you have enough fish and are you feeding them a lot?
 
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Isn’t game over bad. Maybe you mean next level
Ch
Get back to the basics... stability and don't dose anything that you cannot test for. Change some water if you do not.

I would throw the element supplement in the trash unless you know what is in it and can test for all of it. The problem with those all-in-one supplements is that you, for example, might be driving manganese too high in order to get some iodine or strontium. You are better off just changing some water and introducing them that way, or dosing nothing at all.

I do NOT use LED over my display tanks, so take this to mean nothing, but when I extensively tried them, just ramping up for a bit, then steady and then, a short ramp down was about as good as it got. I would not get too cute with the schedule, but I also would not change anything too quickly.

Lastly, remember that N and P need to be available for the corals to use and residual levels mean nothing. Zoox cannot use nitrate, so they have to get their nitrogen from ammonia, so if you are not feeding your fish, then your corals are likely deprived of nitrogen even if you have no3 in the tank. Some P is needed and at .10, you are fine, so don't worry about this. Do you have enough fish and are you feeding them a lot?
I have 14 fish. 2 large - purple tang and fox fac. The rest small fish. I feed them twice a day 1 cube and equal size piece of LRS 2x daily.
Remember I am not trying to grow an SpS dominant tank. I have a mixed reef....and I mean mixed. I’m just trying to get my SPS to do better. Some do well others don’t.
Thanks for your advice.
 

Chaswood79

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What do you mean by spectrum shifts? I can see that you are using much more intensity but the light ramps up and down throughout the day?
Spectrum shifts means you have a bunch of different combinations of different wavelengths in various proportions. Mine are all equally proportionate. I have the same spectrum throughout but at variable intensities (par).
 
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Acropora is a very big genus with species from very different biotopes.
There are Acroporas that withstand rain when they are over the water level at low tide.
But they are adapted to very strong light.
Other Acroporas come from deep water and they dont need much light but they are very sensitive to changes in the water. Most Acroporas come from very clear water with low nutrition.

Soft corals, Zoanthus and mushrooms often come from more turbid water with more organic nutrition.
If Your softies are doing good it should be enough organic nutrition. If thats the case I would not add amino acids. In many cases thats just begging for a cyano attack.

Al corals need phosphate and nitrate So 0.05 to 0.1 and 1 to 10 will give the corals enough inorganic nutrition. They need minor and trace elements too but thats often supported by the water changes.

Corals being brown can be because of low light and high phosphate. A bluish light can mask down the brown so its less visible. And more light will lower the brown in most cases.
I would have the light on the same intensity the most of the day. Maybe increase all colors but red.
Never change a value more than 1/10 for a week. The sun does not change its light every hour.
Dont fuzz with the light the corals is just so sensitive of light changes as they are for the water chemistry.
Stable values are for light, circulation and chemistry.
 

Pedoconfuego

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I am curious which acros come from deep water? Most all acros for the hobby are collected in shallow water as far as I am aware. A lot of people think smooth skinned acros (or “deepwater” acros) are collected in deep water but most are not, it’s just a term hobbyists use to describe corals with less coralites. The amount of light they can handle is the same as most any other acro Ime.
I have found the reefcrest corals that are collected are actually the hardest ones to keep. These days it seems smoothies and reefcrest acros are not being imported as often as they were anymore which I am very curious about.
 

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