I would like to use a 10g tank as a sump for my 40 breeder, nooby when it comes to sumps

[jonny4ever]

So I can’t get anything bigger than a 10g inside the stand so it’s why I can only go with a 10g. My 40 breeder is full of gear inside, I have a tidal 110 as my mechanical filtration and a 9001 skimmer inside. I also have a Aqua clear 70 I recently added as a refugium, I don’t wanna drill the tank. Would just like to add a simple overflow box, will use regular hose I won’t go with hard plumbing. Mainly to keep all my gear inside, get a slightly better skimmer maybe. Would like to be able to have a refugium section but if I can’t fit it I’ll just hang the aqua clear on the sump and call it a day. Any tips on preventing floods? Especially if you expect a power outage or 2 a month just cause it Happens.

 

[KrisReef]

Make sure that when the return pump runs dry that the tank didn't overflow. Shut the return pump off and make sure the 10 gallon doesn't overflow. Overflows from siphon action from the upper tank to the lower are predictable and preventable if you don't have too much water in the sytem in either extreme condition (blocked return or blocked overflow. Good luck.

 

[jonny4ever]

Make sure that when the return pump runs dry that the tank didn't overflow. Shut the return pump off and make sure the 10 gallon doesn't overflow. Overflows from siphon action from the upper tank to the lower are predictable and preventable if you don't have too much water in the sytem in either extreme condition (blocked return or blocked overflow. Good luck.

Yeah. I only expect a display tank flood if one happens. I was thinking, I’m still too nooby to put a float switch to a pump to shut it off when the water level gets too high. Will I be able to have the return pump set a little high up on something t? So in case the siphon breaks I don’t empty out 6ish gallons from the sump into the display? Instead maybe just dump a gallon or 2, I rather have a broken return pump and a gallon of water than 5 gallons or more on the floor

 

[waterbox15aio]

If your return pump is in its own chamber with baffle sealed at bottom and sides, in the event the overflow box siphone breaks, only the water from the return pump chamber will be pumped to main tank before running dry - the rest of the sump water should be retained behind a watertight baffle. I wouldn’t try to do a float swich at main tank to shut off pump - may be sensitive to snails, water level rising with hand in tank, wave maker surface ripples etc.

While I would 100% recommended drilled over overflow box for reliability, if you are determined to go this route, you can find some that work with a Toms aqualifter or other small pump to help keep siphone from breaking.

Id layout the sump as follows: HOB filter sock holder, skimmer/refuge, 3 baffle bubble trap, return pump.

 

[jonny4ever]

If your return pump is in its own chamber with baffle sealed at bottom and sides, in the event the overflow box siphone breaks, only the water from the return pump chamber will be pumped to main tank before running dry - the rest of the sump water should be retained behind a watertight baffle. I wouldn’t try to do a float swich at main tank to shut off pump - may be sensitive to snails, water level rising with hand in tank, wave maker surface ripples etc.

While I would 100% recommended drilled over overflow box for reliability, if you are determined to go this route, you can find some that work with a Toms aqualifter or other small pump to help keep siphone from breaking.

Id layout the sump as follows: HOB filter sock holder, skimmer/refuge, 3 baffle bubble trap, return pump.

I was going to do some baffles, but then just wanted a simple sump so I was gonna use black foam to divide it. Mainly so the light from the refugium doesn’t spill everywhere else, I could add and acrylic baffle at the end for the return pump though. Since the foam traps bubbles would I be able to just lay a sheet of acrylic say 4-5 inches high at the end before the return pump to seal off that section? Before that I would have to connect the overflow and see how much water it drains first

 

[waterbox15aio]

I was going to do some baffles, but then just wanted a simple sump so I was gonna use black foam to divide it. Mainly so the light from the refugium doesn’t spill everywhere else, I could add and acrylic baffle at the end for the return pump though. Since the foam traps bubbles would I be able to just lay a sheet of acrylic say 4-5 inches high at the end before the return pump to seal off that section? Before that I would have to connect the overflow and see how much water it drains first

1) I would do a filter sock over foam baffles - easier to clean so you don’t trap decaying detritus.
2) Glass is better than acrylic for water tight baffles. Silicone doesn’t reliably stick to acrylic.
3) You may want the return chamber baffle abit taller. All of your tanks evapoation loss will show in this chamber so if its too shallow you will need to top up daily or will run pump dry. The main tank and rest of sump water levels will not drop, only the return pump chamber. An ATO in the return pump chamber is ideal.
4) Start with a rough calculation. Ex. 1” inch water drop on a 30x18 40g tank=540cu in to accommodate in sump. For a 20x10 sump that means you need 3” min space above working water line in sump to accommodate main tank water during power outage. This assumes a main tank surface skimmer only that will cut water flow off after water level drops about an inch.

 

[jonny4ever]

1) I would do a filter sock over foam baffles - easier to clean so you don’t trap decaying detritus.
2) Glass is better than acrylic for water tight baffles. Silicone doesn’t reliably stick to acrylic.
3) You may want the return chamber baffle abit taller. All of your tanks evapoation loss will show in this chamber so if its too shallow you will need to top up daily or will run pump dry. The main tank and rest of sump water levels will not drop, only the return pump chamber. An ATO in the return pump chamber is ideal.
4) Start with a rough calculation. Ex. 1” inch water drop on a 30x18 40g tank=540cu in to accommodate in sump. For a 20x10 sump that means you need 3” min space above working water line in sump to accommodate main tank water during power outage. This assumes a main tank surface skimmer only that will cut water flow off after water level drops about an inch.

You’re awesome thanks lolol. I do have a small filter cup that the overflow will drain into, I have filter sock socket from my waterbox 20g that I didn’t use since I made a media basket for it. In the same chamber my little tunze 9001 skimmer will go, I’ll maybe upgrade to the 9004 which will still fit. The water level is low on both, my current 9001 needs only about 5.5 inches.
Foams just for dividers, to stop chaeto and light from going to the other sides. I saw it on a brs video. Yeah they also said acrylic doesn’t exactly get stuck but it just being held honestly is more than enough for what I’m doing. Idc about fancy honestly, I just don’t want a tidal 110, an aquaclear 70, 2 heaters and a skimmer in my tank anymore lolol. I only did it cause I was nervous at first and didn’t know about filtration too much.
Since the tank isn’t drilled I was going to go with the eshopps 300, they’re 90$ on Amazon and they’re rated for 300gph. But I think I’m just going to get the lifereef small overflow, that’s rated for like 600gph and is 160$. It seems those really don’t lose siphon

 

[waterbox15aio]

You’re awesome thanks lolol. I do have a small filter cup that the overflow will drain into, I have filter sock socket from my waterbox 20g that I didn’t use since I made a media basket for it. In the same chamber my little tunze 9001 skimmer will go, I’ll maybe upgrade to the 9004 which will still fit. The water level is low on both, my current 9001 needs only about 5.5 inches.
Foams just for dividers, to stop chaeto and light from going to the other sides. I saw it on a brs video. Yeah they also said acrylic doesn’t exactly get stuck but it just being held honestly is more than enough for what I’m doing. Idc about fancy honestly, I just don’t want a tidal 110, an aquaclear 70, 2 heaters and a skimmer in my tank anymore lolol. I only did it cause I was nervous at first and didn’t know about filtration too much.
Since the tank isn’t drilled I was going to go with the eshopps 300, they’re 90$ on Amazon and they’re rated for 300gph. But I think I’m just going to get the lifereef small overflow, that’s rated for like 600gph and is 160$. It seems those really don’t lose siphon

IMO, you could probably get a new 40g tank and drill for a comparable gost to a $160 overflowbox.

While silicone can hold acrylic in place, I wouldn’t trust it as a water tight baffle. If you loose siphone, all of your sump contents may get pumped to main tank/your floor. Raising the return pump could limit your risk but I personally wouldn’t do this unless you are also running an ATO where evaporation won’t drop your sump waterlevel below the pump. Remember only the sump/return pump chamber drops in water height due to evaporation - your main tank evaporates but the water level is held constant by the overflow box. As such, the water level in a 10g sump with 40g drops alot faster (in 10g sump only) due to evaporation than a 40g tank with no sump.

 

[jonny4ever]

IMO, you could probably get a new 40g tank and drill for a comparable gost to a $160 overflowbox.

While silicone can hold acrylic in place, I wouldn’t trust it as a water tight baffle. If you loose siphone, all of your sump contents may get pumped to main tank/your floor. Raising the return pump could limit your risk but I personally wouldn’t do this unless you are also running an ATO where evaporation won’t drop your sump waterlevel below the pump. Remember only the sump/return pump chamber drops in water height due to evaporation - your main tank evaporates but the water level is held constant by the overflow box. As such, the water level in a 10g sump with 40g drops alot faster (in 10g sump only) due to evaporation than a 40g tank with no sump.

Yeah I just don’t wanna do that. I would just buy a 75g at that point and drill that… but I don’t wanna get into all that cost. My tanks a year old already and doing good, I would prefer to not move it even a slight inch.