IceCap Kalkwasser Kalk Mixing Reactor review and Test.

shred5

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Kalwasser is Calcium hydroxide and is used to maintain both calcium and alkalinity. It differs from other Alkalinity and calcium additives in that it maintains both.
Basically, you take Kalwasser powder and mix it with water and then let it settle. The clear liquid left on top is what you use and is called limewater.


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One of the advantages of using Kalkwasser is that it is cheap compared with two-part additives.



It also has a high PH which will help aquariums with low PH by boosting the PH. It does this by removing carbon dioxide. It has been found that corals grow slower with lower PH values and faster with higher PH. This is one of the reasons I am going to use Kalkwasser. My Reef system is in my basement and suffers from slightly low PH. Some will add the Kalkwasser just at night when PH values are lower to help stabilize PH some. Ph should be monitored when adding kalk.



If you already have a higher PH tank you will want to use a different method. The current PH being higher also can limit the amount of Kalk you can use. Usually this in not an issue for most.

Kalkwasser also can help precipitate phosphate but that is minor advantage and where does it go anyway.

Kalkwasser can be used in addition to two part or a Calcium reactor on those reefs with a large demand where one method may not keep up.



There are several ways to add Kalkwasser to a reef.

The main way most do it is through their top off system and evaporation. They mix up the lime water and add it to their top off reservoir. Disadvantage is it makes a mess in the reservoir and can cause premature failure of pumps. They also expose the limewater to air which can degrade the lime water.

Some use a drip method which can be a very cheap way to add limewater.



I am also going to use a Kalkwasser reactor or Kalk stirrer for simplicity. I like them because they are sealed, and limewater is not exposed to air. They mix the kalk up automatically and keep the solution totally saturated. I will be using the IceCap Kalk Mixing Reactor.



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A couple videos on it:


How to set it up by Coralvue.






Review By Premium Aquatics:






First thing I am going to do is with a two part additive get the calcium and Alkalinity levels where I want first and then use Kalkwasser to maintain it those levels. Kalk is best used to maintain not raise those levels.





I am going to use a smart outlet to turn the motor on for the reactor to mix up the kalk. You could use any timer for this. I will set it to run 4 times in a 24 hour period because that is what is recommended by Coralvue.


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For now since I have a few spare dosing pumps laying around I will be feeding my reactor with one of those vs going off the top off system. This adds consistency and I know my exact dosage. My issue with feeding it with the ATO water is evaporation is not consistent and no way to dial it in. Not only that an ATO can fail dumping allot of limewater into the tank causing a huge spike in ph. Some may use a small pump on a timer to feed the Kalk stirrer.

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shred5

shred5

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This is what comes in the box.
The Reactor of coarse, magnetic stirrer, some tubing and the variable speed power supply.

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I now have it set up on my table to test everything is working before installing on my tank.
So far so good..
Set up is easy. Connect the power supply, connect the input to dosing pump and the drain to the tank.
Drop the stirrer in and fill with water till it gets to the overflow part.
I have it set up to dose a quart spread over 24 hours. So basically it doses about 40 milliliters every hour.
Right now I do not have many SPS or LPS in the tank so not a huge demand yet.
I have it set to mix the kalk 4 times in 24 hours with the smart outlet. So basically every 6 hours. It will mix 10 minutes after it doses so that the kalk has time to settle out before the next time it doses lime water to the tank.




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I have not added Kalk for the test but all you do is take the little cap off on the top and spoon some in..
You do not have to take the whole lid off...


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dwest

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Nice. I use an avast stirrer now after feeding kalk through ATO for over 20 years. I prefer a stirrer. I feed mine with my liter meter 3. So it is adding kalk about every 10 minutes day and night. I think you’ll be happy with your stirrer.
 

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Thinking of getting one of those as well.
I don’t know if a dosing pump is any more reliable. It’s possible dozers can get stuck on the on position.
 
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Thinking of getting one of those as well.
I don’t know if a dosing pump is any more reliable. It’s possible dozers can get stuck on the on position.


I never have had a dosing pump fail but I have always used good ones.
I have had ATO's fail but I do use them allot more than a dosing pump so there is more chance of them failing.
Everything electronic does have a chance of failing.
I feel dosing pumps are more reliable and if they fail hopefully it is not on and off instead.. They dose very little water and unless it is a continuous doser it should actually burn out after a while.
If my top off system failed on it would empty my ATO reservoir in less than a 15 minutes most likely. If my dosing pump failed on it would be really slow and take hours to empty it..

I betting I could set something up to shut the power to the dosing pump with a controller.
 
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Also when setting one of these up make sure you are not dosing more than your evaporation is in a day because that could be really bad.
 

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I have the same kalk reactor and it started to leaked from the bottom where is the elbow and I put a ticket to the customer services and they told to put some teflon tape, but it doesn't have threads, it has some glue. I respond to customer service that and after that silent.......
 

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I have one. I love it except for a couple things which could easily be addressed in future production. First, the passive overflow/output into the tank should be 1/2 inch diameter to limit chances it will clog. The current overflow will clog, so clean the overflow tubing frequently. The last thing you want is kalkwasser on the floor. I recommend placing a water alarm nearby to be safe. Two, I wish the input line was just a bit higher than it is to prevent any back siphon of kalk powder. Due to the top off pressure, don't be surprised to at least have a small amount of back siphon. This can possibly clog the input line since the kalk powder is very close to the input line. The back siphon is a minor issue for me. I use an Apex Dos2 pump.
 
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I have one. I love it except for a couple things which could easily be addressed in future production. First, the passive overflow/output into the tank should be 1/2 inch diameter to limit chances it will clog. The current overflow will clog, so clean the overflow tubing frequently. The last thing you want is kalkwasser on the floor. I recommend placing a water alarm nearby to be safe. Two, I wish the input line was just a bit higher than it is to prevent any back siphon of kalk powder. Due to the top off pressure, don't be surprised to at least have a small amount of back siphon. This can possibly clog the input line since the kalk powder is very close to the input line. The back siphon is a minor issue for me. I use an Apex Dos2 pump.


A couple of things.
The slurry should not be getting into the overflow it only should be the clear water above. That easily could cause it to clog prematurely if the slurry is getting in there. Water should be clear. If that slurry settles in there it will clog fast.
Maybe you are dosing to soon after mixing? Another reason I do not like to use ATO and use a dosing pump with a scheduler or a small pump on a timer.

I have used the drip method for years through airline tubing which is the same size diameter tubing no issue.. It is saturated limewater which is going to calcium up after a while and something to dissolve the minerals should be ran through from time to time. Just like with hard water. I just replace the tubing every so often since it is cheap and easier.

A larger diameter would help for sure but eventually it could still happen.

Using pressure defiantly could help some but I am not sure it would make much of a difference..
For me I use a dosing pump and it would never create much pressure, it basically drips out slowly.

I am running mine 5 feet away so if it is going to clog I should find out.

How long did it take for yours to do it?

My issue right now is getting it dialed in so that does not happen where the slurry makes it out.. Mixing for 1 minute puts the kalk all the way to the top of the reactor even at the slowest mode for me. The whole thing looks like milk. The smart outlet I am using only does minutes, If I could set it to like 20 seconds that would be great. So alternately I have to change my dosing schedule to make sure it does not dose for over a hour after mixing until the top part is clear..

As always I will continue to update My thread so if it happens you will know.

I also can make feedback and recommendations to Coralvue so I will keep an eye out to see if it happens to me. I appreciate feedback from others so I know what to watch for, so do not hesitate to post your experience both likes and dislikes. Maybe I or someone else can help solve the issues if someone has one. Occasionally there is a issue with a product or a improvement can make a product even better. Sometime it is just something the user is doing wrong like set up.
 
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I have the same kalk reactor and it started to leaked from the bottom where is the elbow and I put a ticket to the customer services and they told to put some teflon tape, but it doesn't have threads, it has some glue. I respond to customer service that and after that silent.......

Contact them again , had to be some sort of mix-up they are very good at getting back.
I will look at mine to see if it is glued. It might be because I think I noticed that too but I will verify.
Something my have changed in the construction too..
 

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A couple of things.
The slurry should not be getting into the overflow it only should be the clear water above. That easily could cause it to clog prematurely if the slurry is getting in there. Water should be clear. If that slurry settles in there it will clog fast.
Maybe you are dosing to soon after mixing? Another reason I do not like to use ATO and use a dosing pump with a scheduler or a small pump on a timer.

I have used the drip method for years through airline tubing which is the same size diameter tubing no issue.. It is saturated limewater which is going to calcium up after a while and something to dissolve the minerals should be ran through from time to time. Just like with hard water. I just replace the tubing every so often since it is cheap and easier.

A larger diameter would help for sure but eventually it could still happen.

Using pressure defiantly could help some but I am not sure it would make much of a difference..
For me I use a dosing pump and it would never create much pressure, it basically drips out slowly.

I am running mine 5 feet away so if it is going to clog I should find out.

How long did it take for yours to do it?

My issue right now is getting it dialed in so that does not happen where the slurry makes it out.. Mixing for 1 minute puts the kalk all the way to the top of the reactor even at the slowest mode for me. The whole thing looks like milk. The smart outlet I am using only does minutes, If I could set it to like 20 seconds that would be great. So alternately I have to change my dosing schedule to make sure it does not dose for over a hour after mixing until the top part is clear..

As always I will continue to update My thread so if it happens you will know.

I also can make feedback and recommendations to Coralvue so I will keep an eye out to see if it happens to me. I appreciate feedback from others so I know what to watch for, so do not hesitate to post your experience both likes and dislikes. Maybe I or someone else can help solve the issues if someone has one. Occasionally there is a issue with a product or a improvement can make a product even better. Sometime it is just something the user is doing wrong like set up.

I think the slurry sludge accumulated in the outlet when I added some kalk through the top off hole. Some kalk will float and make its way to the outlet. You can stir it, but this is difficult when the unit is under the stand. Kalk can also slowly accumulate when the slurry is mixing and a mL or so overflows into the outlet. I guess another option would be 2 outlets, one about 1/2'' above the other, to offer back up safety. Still, I love and recommend the unit and with a few changes it can be even better. IMO, you can never be too safe with kalk as it destroys anything it contacts and can cause deadly pH swings. I have my top off pump set to auto shut off at pH 7.46 for safety.
 

joseserrano

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any pics if your set up. I am feeding mine with an aqualifter pump, and it is struggling. I am going to switch it out to an avast dosing pump tonight, see how more it improves.
 
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It is in a temporary spot for now till I build another section on my system.
But basically my dosing pump draws water from the top off container below it. It feeds my reactor and then a temporary drain line is set in the sump for now. I actually moved it to this spot right before taking the picture.


1584381037339.png
 

Backreefing

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I have a question about kalk reactors . Everybody is using freshwater to supply the reactor. Why not use tank water ( saltwater) to supply the kalk reactor? Similar to a calcium reactor?
using freshwater is a limiting factor, only so much can be added . Using tank water is unlimited doseing.????
 

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Does your ATO go through it?
No, I dose through it. So my daily evaporation rate is 5600ml. I dose 2000ml per day of RODI through the Icecap and the rest comes straight through the standard ATO system. I add 100g of Kalk to my Icecap a week.

But to be honest, all the above numbers are still in flux as I monitor my Alk closely and adjust numbers as needed. My Alk tester is a GHL KH Director and I test 4 times a day.
 
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shred5

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Been a few months since you first started the thread - how has the stirrer been doing?


It has been doing pretty good..
I just took it off line to move it to the new 120 gallon set up..
I was just trying out temporarily on my frag system..
I will probably pick up another one eventually. Being in the basement it helps with PH..
 
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