Dr. Reef
www.drreefsquarantinedfish.com
Fellow Reefers.
Ich is a hot subject. Commonly found parasite that is more common in Tangs and can wipe entire tanks out in matter of days.
There are only 3 methods known to work on ich and rest are all myths.
1. Copper based medicine
2. Hypo Salinity
3. Tank Transfer
Now I have already written a guide on cupramine and how to use it to rid ich and for a lot of reasons if someone does not want to try copper then Hypo is another solution.
In this guide I will try to explain as much as I can in detail how to perform this treatment with much success.
Please respect this guide as my personal experience and treatment method and NOT by any means a 100% guarantee. This has worked for me many times so please use caution and improvise if something is not mentioned and use this guide as a knowledge and not as set in stone.
First off have a QT setup.
if you don't have a QT setup please look into this link to a thread explaining how a QT is setup. In that thread there are two ways to setup a QT. both ways work the same for Hypo.
Guide to setup a QT:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/guide-to-setup-a-quarantine-tank-qt.297476/
If you decide to go with Cupramine here is a thread for that. A simple step by step guide:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-and-how-to-get-rid-of-it-using-copper-based-medication.297796/
One u have a QT setup:
I strongly recommend use of a very reliable refractometer and ATO (auto top off system)
Day 1.
Have all parameters in QT equal or very close to DT. (Salinity, Temp mostly)
Day 2.
Transfer all fish from DT to QT, (No Exceptions)
Day 3.
Feed ur fish as normal but not too much to cause ammonia issues in tank.
Have a lot of water made and ready at salinity of 1.009 in case ammonia shows up in tank or if its not a cycled permanent QT.
Day 3 & 4.
Start dropping salinity by taking out saltwater from QT and replacing it with ro/di water several times throughout the day. dropping salinity from 1.025 to 1.009 over 48 hrs.
Note: u can rush this process to 24 hrs if the infection is severe
Day 5 and on:
Once u reach salinity of 1.009 try to keep it there with use of ATO or manual replacement of water due to evaporation. Also keeping temp of the QT at 81F at all times.
Hold 1.009 for 3 weeks. Once u see no ich on the fish and also make sure the breathing has become normal (heavy breathing due to ich in gills) then u can start increasing salinity.
3 weeks is not a set time frame, in some fish it can take longer or even shorter time to rid ich. Best indication is ur fish. I strongly recommend first 3 weeks for sure and then judgment call after observing the behavior of the fish.
Best rule I can provide is 2 weeks of hypo after last ich (including non visible ich in gills) has been rid off.
once u reach the end of the final 2 weeks of hypo observation after riding ich, slowly start to increase salinity.
Note: dropping salinity in short time is not hurtful as increasing. Increasing salinity should be done very slow and over at least 1 week time.
Once the salinity is matched to the main tank then match the temp as well.
After matching parameters you are ready to transfer fish from QT to DT.
The procedure I use is simple.
I take a bucket of DT water and using QT net I catch the fish from QT and place then in Bucket. then using DT net catch them from bucket to DT.
Now this is a procedure I have been following for many yrs and has worked well for me.
Some people ask can I use Prazirpo or Formalin or ammonia reducers in hypo.
Yes I have done all these many time with no ill effects.
Again ur fish are the best indicators of things going good or bad.
Always have freshly made water ready in case u have to perform water changes.
If you don't understand something or are not sure of something please feel free to ask.
There are many capable and experienced member that can guide you in right direction.
Also be open minded about casualties. These are wild animals contained in small tanks, not all procedure go well and complication occur. I know losing a fish is not easy and no one wants their pets to die but reality is even if u followed everything properly there can be a chance of losing fish.
I also recommend performing procedure (any) on a less expensive fish just for practice to get hold on ur treatment habits and unseen circumstances that can occur.
I hope I have provided a good enough procedure for people to follow and wishing everyone Good Luck and Safe reefing.
Note: if there is an error or I left out something or you would like to add on to this please feel free to post.
Thanking You
Mike
Reef Doctor.
Ich is a hot subject. Commonly found parasite that is more common in Tangs and can wipe entire tanks out in matter of days.
There are only 3 methods known to work on ich and rest are all myths.
1. Copper based medicine
2. Hypo Salinity
3. Tank Transfer
Now I have already written a guide on cupramine and how to use it to rid ich and for a lot of reasons if someone does not want to try copper then Hypo is another solution.
In this guide I will try to explain as much as I can in detail how to perform this treatment with much success.
Please respect this guide as my personal experience and treatment method and NOT by any means a 100% guarantee. This has worked for me many times so please use caution and improvise if something is not mentioned and use this guide as a knowledge and not as set in stone.
First off have a QT setup.
if you don't have a QT setup please look into this link to a thread explaining how a QT is setup. In that thread there are two ways to setup a QT. both ways work the same for Hypo.
Guide to setup a QT:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/guide-to-setup-a-quarantine-tank-qt.297476/
If you decide to go with Cupramine here is a thread for that. A simple step by step guide:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-and-how-to-get-rid-of-it-using-copper-based-medication.297796/
One u have a QT setup:
I strongly recommend use of a very reliable refractometer and ATO (auto top off system)
Day 1.
Have all parameters in QT equal or very close to DT. (Salinity, Temp mostly)
Day 2.
Transfer all fish from DT to QT, (No Exceptions)
Day 3.
Feed ur fish as normal but not too much to cause ammonia issues in tank.
Have a lot of water made and ready at salinity of 1.009 in case ammonia shows up in tank or if its not a cycled permanent QT.
Day 3 & 4.
Start dropping salinity by taking out saltwater from QT and replacing it with ro/di water several times throughout the day. dropping salinity from 1.025 to 1.009 over 48 hrs.
Note: u can rush this process to 24 hrs if the infection is severe
Day 5 and on:
Once u reach salinity of 1.009 try to keep it there with use of ATO or manual replacement of water due to evaporation. Also keeping temp of the QT at 81F at all times.
Hold 1.009 for 3 weeks. Once u see no ich on the fish and also make sure the breathing has become normal (heavy breathing due to ich in gills) then u can start increasing salinity.
3 weeks is not a set time frame, in some fish it can take longer or even shorter time to rid ich. Best indication is ur fish. I strongly recommend first 3 weeks for sure and then judgment call after observing the behavior of the fish.
Best rule I can provide is 2 weeks of hypo after last ich (including non visible ich in gills) has been rid off.
once u reach the end of the final 2 weeks of hypo observation after riding ich, slowly start to increase salinity.
Note: dropping salinity in short time is not hurtful as increasing. Increasing salinity should be done very slow and over at least 1 week time.
Once the salinity is matched to the main tank then match the temp as well.
After matching parameters you are ready to transfer fish from QT to DT.
The procedure I use is simple.
I take a bucket of DT water and using QT net I catch the fish from QT and place then in Bucket. then using DT net catch them from bucket to DT.
Now this is a procedure I have been following for many yrs and has worked well for me.
Some people ask can I use Prazirpo or Formalin or ammonia reducers in hypo.
Yes I have done all these many time with no ill effects.
Again ur fish are the best indicators of things going good or bad.
Always have freshly made water ready in case u have to perform water changes.
If you don't understand something or are not sure of something please feel free to ask.
There are many capable and experienced member that can guide you in right direction.
Also be open minded about casualties. These are wild animals contained in small tanks, not all procedure go well and complication occur. I know losing a fish is not easy and no one wants their pets to die but reality is even if u followed everything properly there can be a chance of losing fish.
I also recommend performing procedure (any) on a less expensive fish just for practice to get hold on ur treatment habits and unseen circumstances that can occur.
I hope I have provided a good enough procedure for people to follow and wishing everyone Good Luck and Safe reefing.
Note: if there is an error or I left out something or you would like to add on to this please feel free to post.
Thanking You
Mike
Reef Doctor.
