Ich, bubbles, spots, scratching on sand powder brown tang

Miami Reef

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Here it is:

 
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Alexz

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Here it is:

Here it is:

All good pointers. Everything makes sense. So many choices. Which one to go with? So I’m still not clear if it’s velvet or ich on the picture of my brown tang and both clowns.
 
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Alexz

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Hiding from light yes. Breathing heavy possibly. He never been so inactive before so couldn’t notice. He was the most active fish and most fun to watch. I gave most of them names. I fell so bad. My German Shepard is looking at me constantly cause he fills everything. I got myself some drama going on. I’m so overwhelmed. And that’s on top of my renovation...
 
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Seems like all the difficult fish are dying. Anthias and cleaner wrasses are known for dying.

I’m going to find you a resource. This is one other reef safe treatment that may work really well in your tank.
Atlantic blue tang had some sort of bubbles maybe it was ich. Maybe my return pump blasted him with air cause it ran almost dry while adjusting a few times. Stuck to slime. No pic. He was the first to die
 
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I see that. It’s a lot of work. I have a 250 gallon tank and I had to tear it down to get the fish out.

You can try feeding many times a day to lower stress and boost immune system. Just note that there will be some losses, but you must accept that if you take the management route.

Knowing what parasite you have will greatly help in determining if management can work for you.

Your first step is getting a bottle of prazipro and dose 1 tsp per 20 gallons. Repeat dose after 6 days. This will treat for flukes and is reef safe. Scratching most probably is from flukes. Reef safe

If you purchased tangs and didn’t quarantine them prior, you almost certainly have ich. I’m not too worried about that as much as I am of marine velvet.

As far as ich and velvet go, there’s no reef safe treatment for them.

I see you aquascape has negative space. You can drain the tank to the sandbed and scoop the fish. It’ll be much easier.
Feeding like crazy with every possible fish food
 
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Alexz

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So I need to get my powder brown and clowns out at the same time? Powder blue has no signs of desease but sand scratches like powder brown used to do a few days back
What if I remove corals and treat with copper? Jake from Biota said it’ll effect future corals cause it stays in rock
 

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What if I remove corals and treat with copper? Jake from Biota said it’ll effect future corals cause it stays in rock
You have many options. I’ll list them in order of least to most effective:

1. Pretend nothing is wrong; do absolutely nothing.

2. Feed well, reduce stress, install UV sterilizer, dose H202. (It may work. Not proven to eradicate any parasites. Will keep symptoms at bay).

3. Remove fish from tank. Set up a hospital treatment tank. Most effort involved. Most proven to work. Saves money and heartache long term.

I personally had to experience each stage before I got to number 3. I took me over 5 years of losses until I couldn’t take it anymore.

This was my tank: I took out each and every last rock to remove and treat the fish. It took a lot of work but I can say looking back it was 100% worth it.
CAF01A07-7322-4740-90B8-D2878B9BC1B3.jpeg
CB02E980-8ECD-4664-BB4D-F4E14CC5F7AD.jpeg
FAB40BBA-5E47-46CF-9010-9281FD774AE1.jpeg
 
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Alexz

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I’m not sure I can catch this almost 5inch powder brown or clowns. My aquascape is really complex. It’s sturdy but very limited and crowded.
It looks like I can catch my powder brown since he’s barely moving. I doubt it I can catch powder blue. No signs on him yet but rubbing against the sand like brown started about a week ago. I can see something on my clown ocelaris. But he’s super fast. I practiced and failed. So my question is I need to get all of them out and treat them at the same time? In order to get rid of ich and fluke? Complete water change won’t solve it? Definitely don’t want deseases in my tank. Thx
 
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Alexz

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You have many options. I’ll list them in order of least to most effective:

1. Pretend nothing is wrong; do absolutely nothing.

2. Feed well, reduce stress, install UV sterilizer, dose H202. (It may work. Not proven to eradicate any parasites. Will keep symptoms at bay).

3. Remove fish from tank. Set up a hospital treatment tank. Most effort involved. Most proven to work. Saves money and heartache long term.

I personally had to experience each stage before I got to number 3. I took me over 5 years of losses until I couldn’t take it anymore.

This was my tank: I took out each and every last rock to remove and treat the fish. It took a lot of work but I can say looking back it was 100% worth it.
CAF01A07-7322-4740-90B8-D2878B9BC1B3.jpeg
CB02E980-8ECD-4664-BB4D-F4E14CC5F7AD.jpeg
FAB40BBA-5E47-46CF-9010-9281FD774AE1.jpeg
You removed rock to catch fish or to treat it or tossed it? Definitely wanna do it the right way first. I keep making all these mistakes. I thought I watched enough brs videos. I just added purple, blue and hippo yesterday and yellow today. Btw finally got pic of bigger infected clown. Smaller one seems fine. Oh and my new blue powder keeps nipping at my sick brown. Can’t catch little *******. He’s swiping sand like brown started. So get brown out and clown tonight in rescue tank? and treat aquarium water and rock with corals and snails out with copper?
4284248C-3D6B-4181-8880-EDFDA29D41F5.jpeg
C9BD3423-9A10-46E5-8DE9-BF4CB725A99B.jpeg
C15C4FF6-ACC9-4354-AAAD-99A03DF639BE.jpeg
 

Miami Reef

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1. Powder blue + powder brown is a terrible combo. You are definitely not the only one to find this out the hard way. I made the same mistake. They will often try to kill each other when together

2. You need a tank set up before you can attempt to remove them. A 30 gallon tub would work perfect! (Glass I’d preferred, but plastic saves money).

Buy the equipment. Here’s what you’ll need:
1. Bottled bacteria for saltwater
2. Hang on the back filter
3. Heater
4. Powerhead (pointed at surface for oxygen
5. A few plastic plants or PVC for hiding

Here’s what you need for medications:
1. Copper power
2. Hannah checker for copper
3. Praziquantel
4. Metronidazole

You can purchase a few of these things to help you with your process:
1. Home Depot 5 gallon buckets
2. Siphon hose
3. Net/plastic coriander for fish transportation

And you’re covered. This will work for ALL future fish purchases.

I see you can an active infection in your tank. Best act quick to save them!

(Since you asked, here’s what I did: I removed all my rocks and drained my tank to catch all my fish). I put the rocks back in and treated fish in separate tank. Just like what you will do).

I did not throw away any of my rocks. The parasites in your tank will die after 45 days when your temp reaches 81F.
 
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Few concerns.
Some fish have ich and some have velvet. Problem is , tangs do best with Copper safe VS copper itself. Velvet can be treated with copper safe but copper more effective. Some concerns are :
- Age of tank ?
- Test kits used?
- Appears overfeeding is in progress
- What is your. . . . . Ammonia-nitrate-ph-salinity-tank temperature
- Are you using RO water or tap water from the faucet?

A quarantine tank will be required and a reliable copper test kit. You can use ruby Rally reef with copper .,. Peroxide will be useless for this outbreak/infestation you currently have. Velvet multiplies and kills quickly, so you will have to act fast. You Can give these guys a freshwater dip for temporary relief but treatment is required and ASAP.
Additionally, you will need to keep display tank free of fish for 50-60 days known as fallow period, whereas parasites have no hosts to feed on and reproduce.
This is a very fast acting parasite. It’s usually identified by a large amount of very small, sugar-like dots, flashing, scratching against the substrate or rocks, rapid breathing and swimming into the flow of a powerhead. Bacterial infections often accompany velvet and can kill the fish even if swift treatment for the velvet is administered and successful. The only (currently proven) treatments for velvet are copper and chloroquine phosphate.
 
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Alexz

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Edit. I see you have inverts.

This is ich:
4771717A-BADC-4D13-A534-0767BC0F4D19.jpeg


This is velvet

B40FB9CB-D3EA-4349-8E86-E13EFDB8FE9D.jpeg


Remove fish from tank. Treat them with copper for 30 days. In that month you will dose prazipro 2 times in total. 6 days apart.

This will treat ich, velvet, and flukes. (Flukes are most probably causing the scratching).
 
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Few concerns.
Some fish have ich and some have velvet. Problem is , tangs do best with Copper safe VS copper itself. Velvet can be treated with copper safe but copper more effective. Some concerns are :
- Age of tank ?
- Test kits used?
- Appears overfeeding is in progress
- What is your. . . . . Ammonia-nitrate-ph-salinity-tank temperature
- Are you using RO water or tap water from the faucet?

A quarantine tank will be required and a reliable copper test kit. You can use ruby Rally reef with copper .,. Peroxide will be useless for this outbreak/infestation you currently have. Velvet multiplies and kills quickly, so you will have to act fast. You Can give these guys a freshwater dip for temporary relief but treatment is required and ASAP.
Additionally, you will need to keep display tank free of fish for 50-60 days known as fallow period, whereas parasites have no hosts to feed on and reproduce.
This is a very fast acting parasite. It’s usually identified by a large amount of very small, sugar-like dots, flashing, scratching against the substrate or rocks, rapid breathing and swimming into the flow of a powerhead. Bacterial infections often accompany velvet and can kill the fish even if swift treatment for the velvet is administered and successful. The only (currently proven) treatments for velvet are copper and chloroquine phosphate.
Good morning. Bad news. Both clowns and powder brown died. It definitely looked like the second pic with velvet. Also hard breathing and Swimming in flow of power head. This is a nightmare. I have 1 bedroom apartment. This 90 inch aquarium with sump 75 gal sump is taking up half my kitchen. Thank you for breaking it down for me. So you’re saying the rest of my fish either have velvet or will definitely get it at some point? My numbers are ok except no3 and po4 Are high due to heavy feeding (anthias) and bullying. Local reef store double checking my numbers. Hannah instruments. I do use RO. Salinity 24. Temp 77-78 I live in Coney Island and I had a bright idea getting a bunch of different algae from the beach and dipping in coral revive dip. Should’ve done research first sight
Thanks for the help y’all!
 

vetteguy53081

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Good morning. Bad news. Both clowns and powder brown died. It definitely looked like the second pic with velvet. Also hard breathing and Swimming in flow of power head. This is a nightmare. I have 1 bedroom apartment. This 90 inch aquarium with sump 75 gal sump is taking up half my kitchen. Thank you for breaking it down for me. So you’re saying the rest of my fish either have velvet or will definitely get it at some point? My numbers are ok except no3 and po4 Are high due to heavy feeding (anthias) and bullying. Local reef store double checking my numbers. Hannah instruments. I do use RO. Salinity 24. Temp 77-78 I live in Coney Island and I had a bright idea getting a bunch of different algae from the beach and dipping in coral revive dip. Should’ve done research first sight
Thanks for the help y’all!
You MUST do water change and reduce feeding and focus on this issue at hand. Velvet as mentioned multiplies quickly and in turn will take fish down quickly. Also, hate to say, but Kitchen is perhaps one of the worse locations for a tank due to atmospheric grease ( rub your finger along top of fridge and you'll feel this grease) and also changing temperatures in the room from cooking/baking.
You can set up a temporary hospital/QT setting with simple container such as rubbermaid tub with heater/light/filter and air stone for additional oxygen. I also mentioned freshwater dip which will offer relief - Not fix the issue.
 

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