Ich, bubbles, spots, scratching on sand powder brown tang

[Miami Reef]

Forgot to ask how long do I have once I start draining the water? In terms of no flow or no water circulation? Debating on removing at least some of the rock in case plan a gonna go south. Problem is it’s all standing on 3 rocks which are silicones to glass and balances on fiber sticks and a bunch of glue and more silicone. If it starts swinging sideways. I already had so many close calls. And top glass braces are 8 inches wide and there are 4 of them. Plus cabinets blocking 12 inches of entire back tank. So half the tank is blocked by glass bracing and half in cabinets. Complete nightmare in this case. I wasn’t planning on taking it apart

You’ll have plenty of time to scoop your fish out. The corals will be fine.

Don’t worry about dipping/QT the corals/inverts. Parasites cannot reproduce on them. They are equivalent to a rock. They can hold the eggs, but the 45 day fallow will kill all the parasites.

 

[Alexz]

draining the tank makes them easier to catch. When I did it, I removed my rock into a tub that I had drained the DT into.

You will definitely stress them and even probably have losses in the QT. Especially the visibly sick ones. But not much you can do. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say

Ok so I gotta leave at least a few inches right?
and since my qt is not cycled. Do I use aquarium water or throw bio Ceramic blocks and some rocks and use fresh made not cycled saltwater with Heater, coppersafe, water buffer and filter. No carbon right?

 

[Miami Reef]

Ok so I gotta leave at least a few inches right?
and since my qt is not cycled. Do I use aquarium water or throw bio Ceramic blocks and some rocks and use fresh made not cycled saltwater with Heater, coppersafe, water buffer and filter. No carbon right?

Scoop 2 handfuls of sand from tank and add to QT. Use any water you’d like. Doesn’t matter.

Add seachem matrix, fluval biomax, or simple filter sponge. They all work the same.

No carbon.

 

[Alexz]

Scoop 2 handfuls of sand from tank and add to QT. Use any water you’d like. Doesn’t matter.

Add seachem matrix, fluval biomax, or simple filter sponge. They all work the same.

No carbon.

Got it. Thanks!

 

[Alexz]

draining the tank makes them easier to catch. When I did it, I removed my rock into a tub that I had drained the DT into.

You will definitely stress them and even probably have losses in the QT. Especially the visibly sick ones. But not much you can do. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say

Hi. You said to stop dosing Red Sea nítrate and phosphate control. Should I continue now and what about in qt? Also should I continue with normal water changes 10% weekly Or 20 biweekly or do a 40 when fish are out. Or nitrates and phosphates are ok high without sps. And my coralline algae just started poping up. Hopefully I won’t mess that up

 

[Alexz]

I don’t cook And live alone lol so it shouldn’t be a problem

I’m thinking to get a parrot or try getting married the second time lol

 

[Alexz]

Hold off on the red sea product. With everything going on, add a pouch of ChemiPure Blue or Elite which will keep phos and nitrate in check and polish your tank water.

Hi. What about water changes? Same as usual? Thanks

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi. What about water changes? Same as usual? Thanks

yes

 

[Tamberav]

Hi. What about water changes? Same as usual? Thanks

dose the water up with copper before you do a water change so the concentration in the QT never falls

 

[Tamberav]

Hi. You said to stop dosing Red Sea nítrate and phosphate control. Should I continue now and what about in qt? Also should I continue with normal water changes 10% weekly Or 20 biweekly or do a 40 when fish are out. Or nitrates and phosphates are ok high without sps. And my coralline algae just started poping up. Hopefully I won’t mess that up

I think that was someone else. For QT water changes are to keep ammonia under control. I dose biospira to my QTs for bacteria.

 

[Alexz]

yes

Good morning. Getting everything ready. So one thing still isn’t clear. So 2 qt tanks better than one because you transfer from 1 to another how often to fright deseases better? Thank you

 

[Alexz]

Good morning. Getting everything ready. So one thing still isn’t clear. So 2 qt tanks better than one because you transfer from 1 to another how often to fright deseases better? Thank you

I think that was someone else. For QT water changes are to keep ammonia under control. I dose biospira to my QTs for bacteria.

fight*

 

[vetteguy53081]

Good morning. Getting everything ready. So one thing still isn’t clear. So 2 qt tanks better than one because you transfer from 1 to another how often to fright deseases better? Thank you

One is recommended. You may be talking Tank Transfer Method which I dont fare

 

[Alexz]

Got it. 2 containers is better so fish have more room but no transfers between quarantine tanks. Just need 2 of everything and more checking levels basically. I have 40 gal buckets, 20 gal clear toats or 20 gal glass tank. Go with a bucket or 2? Or what would you do? Thanks

 

[Alexz]

One is recommended. You may be talking Tank Transfer Method which I dont fare

What’s a safe time for fish to be out of the water during catching or transferring ?

 

[vetteguy53081]

What’s a safe time for fish to be out of the water during catching or transferring ?

1-2 minutes ok

 

[Tamberav]

I said more then one QT tank because with the amount of fish you have. You risk killing them putting them all into something too small. You can't cram 200g of fish into a very small uncycled tank and expect success. Spread them out appropriately and try not to put fish together you know will fight.

it is much easier to QT ahead of time (like QT everything before it goes into the DT) so you can do 1-2 fish and one tank as tank tear downs like this are an insane amount of work. Unfortunately it happens to many and how they end up learning about disease.

 

[Alexz]

I said more then one QT tank because with the amount of fish you have. You risk killing them putting them all into something too small. You can't cram 200g of fish into a very small uncycled tank and expect success. Spread them out appropriately and try not to put fish together you know will fight.

it is much easier to QT ahead of time (like QT everything before it goes into the DT) so you can do 1-2 fish and one tank as tank tear downs like this are an insane amount of work. Unfortunately it happens to many and how they end up learning about disease.

Got it. Thank you. Amazon arriving any time now. So at the begging I’m just gonna use aquarium water with copper, power head, heater, no carbon, ceramic porous media than small water changes later correct. And I’ll do a water change in a tank first? 30-40% or need to do partial in the qt as well?

 

[Tamberav]

Got it. Thank you. Amazon arriving any time now. So at the begging I’m just gonna use aquarium water with copper, power head, heater, no carbon, ceramic porous media than small water changes later correct. And I’ll do a water change in a tank first? 30-40% or need to do partial in the qt as well?

As far as parasites go. The DT doesn’t need a water change. It needs to be fishless for min 45 days at 82 degrees with no cross contamination.

I would prioritize water changes on QT to fight ammonia.

 

[Alexz]

As far as parasites go. The DT doesn’t need a water change. It needs to be fishless for min 45 days at 82 degrees with no cross contamination.

I would prioritize water changes on QT to fight ammonia.

Just got a 70 gal. Going your route. About to to start Thanks!