Ich, bubbles, spots, scratching on sand powder brown tang

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Alexz

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As far as parasites go. The DT doesn’t need a water change. It needs to be fishless for min 45 days at 82 degrees with no cross contamination.

I would prioritize water changes on QT to fight ammonia.
Sorry forgot to ask. Some folks are saying to only use half recommended copper meds. Also no sand or rock only pvc and control amonia with water changes. Sounds about right or what do u think? Thanks
 
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As far as parasites go. The DT doesn’t need a water change. It needs to be fishless for min 45 days at 82 degrees with no cross contamination.

I would prioritize water changes on QT to fight ammonia.
Starting now. I’m afraid I’ll have problem catching diamond goby since he’s always in caves in sand. Can’t leave him right?
 
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As far as parasites go. The DT doesn’t need a water change. It needs to be fishless for min 45 days at 82 degrees with no cross contamination.

I would prioritize water changes on QT to fight ammonia.
No lid right? And do they need light or kitchen light from my leds 50K is enough?
 
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As far as parasites go. The DT doesn’t need a water change. It needs to be fishless for min 45 days at 82 degrees with no cross contamination.

I would prioritize water changes on QT to fight ammonia.
Also forgot about my blue starfish. She needs to come out or stay?
 
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As far as parasites go. The DT doesn’t need a water change. It needs to be fishless for min 45 days at 82 degrees with no cross contamination.

I would prioritize water changes on QT to fight ammonia.
Should I dip them in hydrogen peroxide 3% And water or straight to quarantine tank with copper?
 

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My powder blue has same spots as brown did so he’s still gonna make it through bath? And bath all of them in peroxide or just visually Infected ones?
As long as there aren’t any cuts they will make it through the bath.

It’s preferable to bathe them all in the bath since they’ve been exposed to velvet.
 

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I would do the bath. Fish handle it well. Honestly if he dies it’s probably because once you see those symptoms sometimes it’s too late regardless.
 

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Got it. Thank you. Amazon arriving any time now. So at the begging I’m just gonna use aquarium water with copper, power head, heater, no carbon, ceramic porous media than small water changes later correct. And I’ll do a water change in a tank first? 30-40% or need to do partial in the qt as well?
Agreeing with Tamberav's statement OR even one big rubbermaid tub and during treatment , increase oxygen with as simple as an airstone.
 
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Agreeing with Tamberav's statement OR even one big rubbermaid tub and during treatment , increase oxygen with as simple as an airstone.
Thank you guys so much for your quick support and hopefully all goes well fingers crossed. Had a cracked tub from Home Depot. Had to replace it. Mandolor wrass was last after gobby. I made sand traps/barricades around rock work slowly corralling them to the open right side. Thank god I had help! So what’s a recommended copper reading on Hannah copper HR?
 

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Thank you guys so much for your quick support and hopefully all goes well fingers crossed. Had a cracked tub from Home Depot. Had to replace it. Mandolor wrass was last after gobby. I made sand traps/barricades around rock work slowly corralling them to the open right side. Thank god I had help! So what’s a recommended copper reading on Hannah copper HR?

From @Jay Hemdal write up

  • Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.50 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
  • Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlorinator) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
  • Feed and top off tank water normally.
Days 3 – 32: Continue Copper Treatment
  • Monitor copper ppm regularly. If fluctuations do not occur, you can skip day(s), but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you will need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
  • Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
  • If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes to correct the problem.
 

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Thank you guys so much for your quick support and hopefully all goes well fingers crossed. Had a cracked tub from Home Depot. Had to replace it. Mandolor wrass was last after gobby. I made sand traps/barricades around rock work slowly corralling them to the open right side. Thank god I had help! So what’s a recommended copper reading on Hannah copper HR?
My preferred is 2.25 (incase test is a little off to avoid overdose)
 
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My preferred is 2.25 (incase test is a little off to avoid overdose)
My first reading was 2.16. Increased it just a bit to be in 2.25-2.50. So I read these parasites don’t like dark. So what should I do in terms of lights. A dozen 50k leds in my kitchen should be ok with a lid half on to provide darker places for them to hide. Oh and I added a bunch of pvc fittings. Or they need aquarium lights? Few smaller Corelia power heads near top ok? Or just air stone? Powder blue and hippo didn’t make it. Baby yellow tang and fire angel are still in a fight laying on their sides though. So depressing. But it could’ve been worse if not for you guys. Thanks y’all
 
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From @Jay Hemdal write up

  • Add Coppersafe to the QT to achieve a concentration of 2.50 ppm over the course of 24 hours. This can be done in two doses 12 hours apart or multiple smaller doses if you prefer. Coppersafe will not be effective until a concentration over 2.0 ppm is present. A target of 2.50 ppm will allow for fluctuations without the risk of falling below the 2.0 ppm threshold. Hanna Copper checker is the most accurate test to use.
  • Never use ammonia removing products or other reducing agents (dechlorinator) when dosing copper. Most products bind copper with an amine to reduce toxicity to the fish. Reducing agents break that bond, releasing free copper that can harm the fish.
  • Feed and top off tank water normally.
Days 3 – 32: Continue Copper Treatment
  • Monitor copper ppm regularly. If fluctuations do not occur, you can skip day(s), but if the concentration falls below 2.0 ppm, you will need to restart the 30-day count for the copper treatment.
  • Monitor water quality parameters as you would for your display tank.
  • If the copper or ammonia levels ever exceed guidelines, be prepared to administer water changes to correct the problem.
Hi. Thanks for breaking in down and especially pointing out a full 30 day restart if copper levels fall below 2.0. Previous r2r thread about dosing ml is so confusing. Please tell me about how many cubes of frozen food per day for a dozen 2” fish size. Still feed heavy? I woke up at 6 and went to sleep at 6. Ran out of RO water. Had to cover the rocks. Thank god for Red Sea quick mixing time. Plus a cracked 70 gal toat... was in a hurry. I recommend rubber made and not cheap plastic which cracks easily. Glass even better if you got room and a 50$ extra lol Going back to sleep Thanks guys
 

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My first reading was 2.16. Increased it just a bit to be in 2.25-2.50. So I read these parasites don’t like dark. So what should I do in terms of lights. A dozen 50k leds in my kitchen should be ok with a lid half on to provide darker places for them to hide. Oh and I added a bunch of pvc fittings. Or they need aquarium lights? Few smaller Corelia power heads near top ok? Or just air stone? Powder blue and hippo didn’t make it. Baby yellow tang and fire angel are still in a fight laying on their sides though. So depressing. But it could’ve been worse if not for you guys. Thanks y’all
Ambient light is adequate.
Run water flow and air stone at same time
 

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Hi. Thanks for breaking in down and especially pointing out a full 30 day restart if copper levels fall below 2.0. Previous r2r thread about dosing ml is so confusing. Please tell me about how many cubes of frozen food per day for a dozen 2” fish size. Still feed heavy? I woke up at 6 and went to sleep at 6. Ran out of RO water. Had to cover the rocks. Thank god for Red Sea quick mixing time. Plus a cracked 70 gal toat... was in a hurry. I recommend rubber made and not cheap plastic which cracks easily. Glass even better if you got room and a 50$ extra lol Going back to sleep Thanks guys

I would not feed heavy since your tanks are not cycled and new. You may be able to feed more if they cycle (copper may slow the cycle down). You need to try and keep uneaten food to a minimum and siphon it out when you do a water change. I am not sure you can test ammonia accurately with copper in the water with typical kits like API. I think the seachem ammonia badges are what people use for that.

Can you get some biospira to add for bacteria? It’s probably even better then what is in the tank water.
 
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I would not feed heavy since your tanks are not cycled and new. You may be able to feed more if they cycle (copper may slow the cycle down). You need to try and keep uneaten food to a minimum and siphon it out when you do a water change. I am not sure you can test ammonia accurately with copper in the water with typical kits like API. I think the seachem ammonia badges are what people use for that.

Can you get some biospira to add for bacteria? It’s probably even better then what is in the tank water.
Ok thank you. I put some plastic fake corals and big shells along with pvc. Now purple tang is showing same bad visible signs. Give him another 3% peroxide dip? Or just let them be for now?
 
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I would not feed heavy since your tanks are not cycled and new. You may be able to feed more if they cycle (copper may slow the cycle down). You need to try and keep uneaten food to a minimum and siphon it out when you do a water change. I am not sure you can test ammonia accurately with copper in the water with typical kits like API. I think the seachem ammonia badges are what people use for that.

Can you get some biospira to add for bacteria? It’s probably even better then what is in the tank water.
843F8162-5916-402D-883A-77615D33632F.jpeg
 

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Ok thank you. I put some plastic fake corals and big shells along with pvc. Now purple tang is showing same bad visible signs. Give him another 3% peroxide dip? Or just let them be for now?

If you already dipped him then I would not again. I generally keep dips 3-4 days apart.

Velvet moves fast and copper takes time to work. I am not kidding when I say often people lose the fish to velvet before the meds even get a chance to kick in :(
 

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