Ich treatment

[SpencerT82]

I have a 112 gallon Reef tank with a decent amount of corals and a small tomini tang,1 blotchy anthias, 3 clown fish, a royal grama and a blue star leopard wrasse. I first began to see a few white spots on my 2 Picasso clowns so I removed them and treated them for ich in a 10 gallon qt tank which the ich seemed to disappear. Then a week later I went on vacation for a few days and when I came back the spots were back as well as now spots on every fish except one clownfish and the blue star leopard wrasse. How should I go about trying to get rid of ich in my tank if I should remove it at all.

 

[Sharkbait19]

If one shows spots, assume they all have it.
To kill all ich, all fish have to be removed from the dt and treated in a qt tank with copper for 30 days. The dt must remain fishless for 45-76 days.

 

[bnord]

Agree with the above and ensure great nutrition to help them sustain the infection, and consider a quality UV to attempt to limit multiplication - all till you can catch them up and treat. Good luck catching the wrasse - smile

most all. of us have been through this - I was lucky to only loose 20% stock to velvet 2 years back

best of luck to you

 

[threebuoys]

Please click on the link below to see an explanation for the quarantine protocol you need to follow. If you have any doubt about your diagnosis, click on the link that explains information you should provide so we can help you.

 

[MnFish1]

How should I go about trying to get rid of ich in my tank if I should remove it at all.

Agree with the other answers.

1. To get 'rid of it' - Follow @Sharkbaits instructions - remove the fish treat all the fish in a separate quarantine tank with therapeutic copper (you can also review whether some of your fish would do better with a chelated version of copper) - then leave your other tank fallow (without fish) - for 45-76 days. Usually the protocol for using the 45 days you would raise the temp in your tank to about 81 degrees - if you have corals, etc that aren't used to that temperature - would not necessarily do that.
2. If you have fish only in your tank - you can also use a hypo salinity protocol - whereby you gradually lower your specific gravity for a certain period - then slowly bring it back up - you can do this in your display without a separate QT tank
3. There is a term called 'Ich management' - whereby you try to maximize conditions, feeding, stress levels without doing any treatment. The thought is that the fish in the tank (assuming all survive) will become 'immune' - and though there are low-levels of cryptocaryon in your tank - unless the fish become 'stressed' - it will not cause a problem. There are several potential pitfalls with this method - and the easiest would be #1 or 2 IMHO.

Good luck with your tank and fish - and Welcome to the site!!

 

[SpencerT82]

If one shows spots, assume they all have it.
To kill all ich, all fish have to be removed from the dt and treated in a qt tank with copper for 30 days. The dt must remain fishless for 45-76 days.

What size qt would I need to use I only have a 10 gallon

 

[threebuoys]

With 7 fish, 10 gallons will be very tight quarters. A 20 gallon, or even a 29 gallon which has the same footprint as the 20, would be easier on the fish as well as easier to keep the water quality and meds balanced.

edit: keep it simple, no need for special lighting, ambient light will do. Simple HOB filter, or even an adequately sized foam filter running off an air pump will do. No sand, except some non-calcareous sand in a container for the wrasses to bury in. And a heater.