I'm at the end of my rope. Bryopsis infestation. Help?

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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If this med doesn’t work, I want the challenge. We have about four thousand completely fixed gha tanks in our peroxide threads Including my own beaten challenge ten yrs ago documented same tank up to today. Invasion free, all invaders.

Scrubbing is not rasping, it leaves the anchors in place. Rasping doesn’t, you are missing one critical approach. Holler if you get to the point nothing works, we’ll make no 4001

You don’t do your whole tank with my method, you make a single test rock comply then we upscale which prevents wasted time. Once we find the tiny changeup that makes your rock test stay clean, then we do the rest.

You’ve actually been doing the bulk of the access work most refuse to do; which is why you are learning about that whiskered growback from your own test rocking. No gha algae can beat a rasp since it’s holdfasts aren’t that deep. If you’d post s single full tank shot in one pic I could eyeball the direction that tank will take with our approach. I’ll be looking at unspoken causes and variables too (your sandbed) in the pic

I haven’t even seen your tank but your issue begs certain repeating finds in our gha threads...we rarely see bare bottom algae challenge tanks, and we 100% routinely see them in tanks where the sandbed cannot pass a clouding drop test (meaning it’s your cause if disturbance of the bed produces clouding)

Fluconazole is good but it never ever addressed the whole cause in anyone’s tank. What it does address typically is the direct kill portion of the equation, like our peroxide does, but we’ve still got correct surface prep to contend with and that filthy bed, if applicable.



https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/385974-clowns-pico-contest-build/?page=6


Look at the challenges early on there, and the ending results. The reason your tank is invaded has to do with doing opposite actions at critical times vs that above. Algae left in the system, not killed, wicks in its own detritus to decay and feed on site...having a kill mechanism in place months ago would have reversed your challenge, just like she reversed hers there. The only catch was her tank is easy to access so there’s never hesitation to do so.
 
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NCreefguy

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I haven’t even seen your tank but your issue begs certain repeating finds in our gha threads...we rarely see bare bottom algae challenge tanks, and we 100% routinely see them in tanks where the sandbed cannot pass a clouding drop test (meaning it’s your cause if disturbance of the bed produces clouding)

Fluconazole is good but it never ever addressed the whole cause in anyone’s tank. What it does address typically is the direct kill portion of the equation, like our peroxide does, but we’ve still got correct surface prep to contend with and that filthy bed, if applicable.

I agree....With GHA once you stop using Fluconazole and perform water changes to remove the meds,the GHA will once again start to grow. The conditions in the tank are still the same as it was before the treatment. I've seen so many posts where people are using Flucon for GHA(which is fine, just takes longer) but don't understand why it returns once they stop using the treatment.(this was not directed at you MichelleRay as you haven't killed your algae yet.I've just seen this in several threads) We are using a low dose, continuous use of Fluconazole to keep GHA away and it's been working great but I wouldn't knock any more natural methods of getting rid of GHA either.The goal is the same,just wanting to enjoy our tanks without being overrun with algae and other problems.

On a side note: My main tank (I have quite a few tanks) looked so much better after I removed most of the 14yr old, 4-6 inch DSB of nastiness that it had.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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If we had a time machine I’d like to go back in it to the time you removed that bed and fawn for a nitrate reading pulled from its deepest depths. We NEVER get to see data from beds that old, once they pass ten nobody will touch em that’s for sure. Rare ha!
 

NCreefguy

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If we had a time machine I’d like to go back in it to the time you removed that bed and fawn for a nitrate reading pulled from its deepest depths. We NEVER get to see data from beds that old, once they pass ten nobody will touch em that’s for sure. Rare ha!

Yeah I had to go sloooowwwllly removing it. Some areas on the bottom, the sand was clumped together as hard as a rock and black as tar. It had 3-4 different colored layers(or zones) in all.There's still a couple areas in there in the back of the tank and under some of the main rocks that couldn't be reached but I haven't had the nutrient issues since removing that mess.
 
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MichelleRay

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A lot of it did turn white and seems to have come off now. However where it was there is now short green algae. It's possible I actually had both infesting my tank. The taller briopsis does seem to be completely gone now which I'm happy about but this new stuff is somewhat disappointing.
 
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MichelleRay

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Tank pics. For size reference its a standard 55g from pet smart.
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MichelleRay

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The filter on the left has no cartridges. I just use it for added circulation on that end. The one on the right normally has carbon in it but that is gone for the fluco treatment. It also contains 3 biopads and a handful of cheato as well as some bits of other red algaes that broke off. I've also got some peppermint shrimp stored in there til I can rehome them because they can't seem to stop picking on my coral who already have enough problems as well as eating the lettuce nudibranch I was hoping would help with the algae 10 minutes after put him in. And yes I'm aware of the aiptasia on the one pic. It will die as soon as my needles get here. So far its the only one, I assume because the algae keeps covering even it. Also I just got back from vacation so yes it needs topped off with water but I haven't done it yet.
 

NCreefguy

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Yeah you've got some GHA growing in there too. If you let the treatment continue it will more than likely die off in the next 2-4 weeks. If you perform a water change make sure to replace the Flucon.
 

DracoKat

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I am in for another vote for Flucanazole. Though after a full year, I am seeing signs of Bryposis again. I was able to pull it out by hand, but I have the fluconazole prepared in case I need to use it again.
 
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MichelleRay

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I conducted a little experiment just to see what would happen and I think I have found the root cause of the algae problem. My phosphate test kit expired in 2015, but its all I have right now so I gave it a shot. Tank tested 0. Tap water which I refill the tank with, however, tested at .5. Even if its not fully accurate, I'd say that is probably where the algae is getting its food from. So I'm currently looking into either a cheap RO unit or some kind of phosban type thing.
 

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