I'm trying to figure out why me chalice frags would RTN and my Acros would bleach. I also have had a

[saltyfilmfolks]

Is there a different frozen food

There's is no credible proof of that.
imo, go slow, feed the fish healthfully. reduce "nutrient export"(chato gfo) skip a wc.

 

[Monkeynaut]

I did the water change yesterday because I was concerned that the Seachem Pristine I added a few days before the first coral went south may have caused a to clean environment and that the bacteria in pristine was multiplying too much... I forgot to mention I had used it. I used it just before I ultimately used chemiclean. When I used these two things I had very similar nitrate and phosphate numbers. Both low...

Has anyone ever heard of that stuff running away with a tank? My ORP was just continuing to go up and up and up, every day. Just a little higher. I had ORP of 275 after the chemiclean water change on May 11 and then just yesterday before the water change it had gone all the way up to 440 with no indication of it leveling off... I know people say not to look at ORP for health of a tank. But as a trend it can be valuable. The trend is a constant unending rise over almost an entire month.

 

[Monkeynaut]

There's is no credible proof of that.
imo, go slow, feed the fish healthfully. reduce "nutrient export"(chato gfo) skip a wc.

I don't do regular water changes. I hadn't done one in almost a month. I also don't use filter socks. I am going to start using reef roids and will cut the cheato down to 10 hours on, down from 12 hours.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I know people say not to look at ORP for health of a tank. But as a trend it can be valuable.

ture. But I think our eyes are a better indicator. Gut, even more.

Has anyone ever heard of that stuff running away with a tank?

no.
the fluctuations in a new reef and the causes of cyano are soo amazingly complex, you need an infinite improbability drive to calculate it all. And yes you would still see a trend on the orp. but the orp would have to observen over the course of months and years not days and week imo.

The differnce between a 6mo old tank kand a year old and even then a two year old tank is really a stark contrast. Hang in there.

 

[Monkeynaut]

I still have corals dying, even ones that have been in the tank for weeks. The LPS sort of recede over a few days until they are bone and the SPS sticks turn white bone almost instantly over night.

I have made a few changes since I made the original post:

I added NO3 to get nitrates up to a readable level. I also allowed phosphate to show up. I added Aquaforest components A, B, and C and the Amino Mix per the directions. After a few weeks of these changes I still have corals dying (healthy one day and receding the next) These corals aren't turning pastels either. The parts that recede do it over night basically and the rest of the coral can look great, polyps out and all. But I have learned that once it starts it is inevitably going to be all bone soon.
I watched the flesh flow off of a Acro during the day once. It doesn't seem to be anything eating them. Nothing I can see with the naked eye at least

As a side note, I have this incredibly annoying "algae" that covers the glass in a day or so. I have a microscope coming tomorrow and I will post a better look at this film.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Catching up right now

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

The coral deaths are that quick? Days ?

Your only acclimating frags to temp not water?

What is the avareage par at the top of the tank. And the bottom?

 

[Monkeynaut]

Average at top most corals is 300(all SPS)
I have a torch high 200s.
Everything else is mid 200 to 50ish

 

[Monkeynaut]

I don't acclimate to water. Just temp but I have been told that is ok. Besides, corals die within days of being in the tank or weeks of great color and PE only to begin a few day process of death

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I woul try Chem acclimation for like 30 to 40 min.
I really don't temp acclimate much. Float the bag and then drip. Double the water in 30 min and then keep going another 15.

Have you tested for copper or run gfo?

That kind of light shouldn't be the problem. It's low if anything. But won't kill stuff and no the that fast

 

[Monkeynaut]

That is my point. The lights are on the low side. So I did extend the peak in an attempt to emulate WWC.
I do run GFO now. I had done it prior and do it again since I had corals going upside down well after the change, I decided to quit chasing the nutrition train. Especially when you consider I have nameless sponges, pineapple sponges, medusa jellyfish and other filter feeders I cant even remember the bame of off hand. I'm wondering if I have a coral poison in there somehow.

For it to be copper wouldn't the snails need to be dying? My snails never die.

I have a powder blue tang and hippo that are both growing. So I know I'm at least doing well for them. I just with the coral would stop stripping the flesh off it.
@reefsquad

 

[Monkeynaut]

Also, the lighting was way more. I turned it down when I was chasing the too low nutrient angle

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

The gfo should have pulled out most bad heavy metals.

But will strip your po4.

Is beeter you light is down now but again it shouldn't act like that. Not kill coral in days.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Baffeling.

 

[Monkeynaut]

I agree @saltyfilmfolks ... I'm not sure if I called the reefsquad or not. I'm still learning the ins and outs of the website (but please call them if I didn't. Also thank you for your help, we have eliminated some things for the rest of your crew to think about). I would like eyes on this though. I'm wondering if it is a toxin released by dinoflagellates. Look at the last video of my tank. It's just the glass up close. Within a week I can visually see an 'obstruction' on the front glass. It is butting up on translucent.
I have a microscope coming tomorrow. Is there anything I should be looking for. I feel this must be a pest at this point. For everything to be doing so well other than corals. It is confounding.

 

[Monkeynaut]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7RMPSE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm asking for help. I'm going to take pictures of the glass scrapings with this. I will pull half gone corals and scrape around the healthy/dead tissue region. I want to be helpful to this forum. But I'm not a scientist, so I don't know procedure for compound microscoping of a saltwater aquariums. Best practices would be appreciated.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I'm actually on the reefsquad.

Do a hash tag. Reef squad not an at.

But doit in the mid day tomorrow so they'll be more folks on line.

 

[Monkeynaut]

I know you are and I appreciate your help. We have eliminated several causes together. But I want to get more eyes on this; I have dying corals and no solutions of yet.

 

[awais98]

I have a feeling this is a chemical issue.
Sending a Triton test will get the result or atleast rule out things.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I know you are and I appreciate your help. We have eliminated several causes together. But I want to get more eyes on this; I have dying corals and no solutions of yet.

Let's #reefsquad and see if there's somthing we're overlooking.
Corals shouldn't die in days.