I'm trying to figure out why me chalice frags would RTN and my Acros would bleach. I also have had a
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I bought the triton tests last night. It will take time to get those results back though.
This is a video about the basic idea how to test, instead of using a sink, use your tank... Test your sump and the main display tank...
As for contaminates, could there be something on your hands when you put them in the tank? I may be over cautious, but I do not put my hands in my tank the same day I mow the lawn for example. My tank is also very deep, so I have to avoid deodorant getting in the tank, so I make sure I shower earlier in the day, leaving enough time to wash several times before putting my whole arm in the tank. Also, not rinsing equipment before putting it into the tank could cause contamination problems. These are just a couple of simple examples how we can easily and unwittingly contaminate our tanks... Think about everything that has touched the water (plumbing solvents, hands, bags, powerheads, etc)...
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@sbash @KJ @saltyfilmfolks
32 volts total. Each AC motor induced some voltage. The DC motors induced only MV as seen on the DC voltage channel... assuming it would be measured the same way...
The Skimmer and Carbon and GFO pumps each induced 5 volts. The 2 heaters, just having electrons to them (temp is high enough they should not have actually been energizing the heating coil), induced 3 volts a piece. The two power heads induced only 4 volts each. I rounded any half volt measurements off and still had 2 volts in the system with everything turned off. So every ac motor is showing as voltage in the tank.
The million dollar question now is, what is too much induced voltage? How can I see if there is any current actually in the tank?
I have never been shocked by the tank.
To my recollection, all of this was in the tank for the few months I wasn't having problems.
If one of these was actually "leaking" wouldn't I be seeing 120v plus all the induced voltages? like 152v or something???
32 volts total. Each AC motor induced some voltage. The DC motors induced only MV as seen on the DC voltage channel... assuming it would be measured the same way...
The Skimmer and Carbon and GFO pumps each induced 5 volts. The 2 heaters, just having electrons to them (temp is high enough they should not have actually been energizing the heating coil), induced 3 volts a piece. The two power heads induced only 4 volts each. I rounded any half volt measurements off and still had 2 volts in the system with everything turned off. So every ac motor is showing as voltage in the tank.
The million dollar question now is, what is too much induced voltage? How can I see if there is any current actually in the tank?
I have never been shocked by the tank.
To my recollection, all of this was in the tank for the few months I wasn't having problems.
If one of these was actually "leaking" wouldn't I be seeing 120v plus all the induced voltages? like 152v or something???
No. Induced boltage is exactly that. A small amount produced by the pumps.
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So, one less thing to be concerned about. I am hopeful that the triton testing will point a finger at something.
I still have to get the microscope out of the box and play with it.
Hopefully you find something with the triton test but if not Vibrio is another possibility.
I've had what i think is that & it wiped out both hard & soft corals...still appears from time to time in my tank,random rtn.
Only does it at night & if you shine a torch there's a brown film on the edge of the tissue as it recedes.
This here what you probably don't have access to is the only thing i found that i thought would help - maybe there's something similar that you can find if nothing stands out on the icp. https://www.seawayaqua.co.uk/arem-v
I've had what i think is that & it wiped out both hard & soft corals...still appears from time to time in my tank,random rtn.
Only does it at night & if you shine a torch there's a brown film on the edge of the tissue as it recedes.
This here what you probably don't have access to is the only thing i found that i thought would help - maybe there's something similar that you can find if nothing stands out on the icp. https://www.seawayaqua.co.uk/arem-v
Bear in mind triton wil only show a list of elements so hopefully it's covered.
Other pathogens and viruses won't show up
.
Other pathogens and viruses won't show up
.
Yeah, those readings are individually low, so that seems good... I would still run the test with the heaters engaged (the voltage should not change much, if at all)...
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I will rerun the test with heaters on. I don't expect triton to come back bad. But it will rule out chemistry and leave me with pathogens or pests. I'm going to scope the scum that is on the glass to see what it looks like up close
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So I got the microscope out and found these living in the film on the glass...
Is this Dino's?
Is this Dino's?
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Update and problem solved:
I finally saw my Tribal Blenny nip at a coral a month or so ago.
I was still having corals suddenly go south, but just one at a time usually. I had done triton testing, and then the prescribed water changes (Turns out my K was half what it should have been due to my salt mix). Anyways, I did the water changes, sent a second sample in and everything came back great. My tank parameters are on point for chemistry.
Which brings me back to the Tribal Blenny... I put a couple new corals in the tank after I got back good chemistry results and I discovered one of them dead and then days later the other. So it wasn't chemistry.
I saw the tribal blenny nip a coral or two and decided to remove him. It was bad, he was quick and evasive. He wouldn't go into my trap lured with food. I couldn't net him. So, I waited for him to go into one of his rockwork holes. I covered it with a net and then pulled the rock. I had to destroy some of the rock-work but it was worth it.
Since removing the Tribal blenny I have had no coral issues and some that had been doing poorly have perked up and gotten deeper color.
The lesson is that a Tribal blenny can destroy both SPS and LPS, so be careful putting one in your tank. Since removing mine I have read mixed reviews on this type of blenny.
I finally saw my Tribal Blenny nip at a coral a month or so ago.
I was still having corals suddenly go south, but just one at a time usually. I had done triton testing, and then the prescribed water changes (Turns out my K was half what it should have been due to my salt mix). Anyways, I did the water changes, sent a second sample in and everything came back great. My tank parameters are on point for chemistry.
Which brings me back to the Tribal Blenny... I put a couple new corals in the tank after I got back good chemistry results and I discovered one of them dead and then days later the other. So it wasn't chemistry.
I saw the tribal blenny nip a coral or two and decided to remove him. It was bad, he was quick and evasive. He wouldn't go into my trap lured with food. I couldn't net him. So, I waited for him to go into one of his rockwork holes. I covered it with a net and then pulled the rock. I had to destroy some of the rock-work but it was worth it.
Since removing the Tribal blenny I have had no coral issues and some that had been doing poorly have perked up and gotten deeper color.
The lesson is that a Tribal blenny can destroy both SPS and LPS, so be careful putting one in your tank. Since removing mine I have read mixed reviews on this type of blenny.
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I happened upon this thread again and thought I would update again.
Since removing the tribal blenny I haven’t had any issues at all with STN or RTN. Corals are growing well and some of the corals I had completely written off are now coming back. It is truly awesome.
Bottom line is that if you read this thread you might have had some similar issues I had. When you are feeling like you are doing everything right, watch the fish. It could be the problem.
Since removing the tribal blenny I haven’t had any issues at all with STN or RTN. Corals are growing well and some of the corals I had completely written off are now coming back. It is truly awesome.
Bottom line is that if you read this thread you might have had some similar issues I had. When you are feeling like you are doing everything right, watch the fish. It could be the problem.
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
This can be very true with centropyge species.
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Tribal Blenny isn't an angel fish, but you are right.
I am much more careful now with the fish I put in my tank. I am actively steering clear of any fish that is known to eat coral; On the simple premise, that I never want to destroy my aquascape again.
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