Innovative Marine EXT 100 ordered - Back after nearly 20 Years
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PigDaddyF15E
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So. To make sure I understand. PVC glue then insert PVC into that bulkhead. Futher down use a slip / union / thread fitting to get my union in. Then put in my barbs/flexible tubing down into the sump
BTW. Thanks for the picture...really shows the detail.
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KStatefan
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That sounds correct. For the pvc glue you will want transition glue when you glue into the bulkheads.
On mine I switched out the factory bulkheads and did slip/threaded so I could use a pipe nipple between the bulkhead and the union.
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PigDaddyF15E
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That sounds correct. For the pvc glue you will want transition glue when you glue into the bulkheads.
On mine I switched out the factory bulkheads and did slip/threaded so I could use a pipe nipple between the bulkhead and the union.
Quick check on the website of the "usual" home improvement stores shows various length PVC nipples but they are threaded on both ends. Is that what you used? I suppose I could buy one and then just cut the threads off the end I plan to transition cement into the bulkhead.
When you say you are using flexible tubing are you talking about flexible pvc or a vinyl tubing?
1" Flexible pvc can be glued directly to the bulkhead same as the pipe. Vinyl tubing you can use a slip to barb fitting like https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/gray-male-pipe-adapter-spigot-x-barb.html
1" Flexible pvc can be glued directly to the bulkhead same as the pipe. Vinyl tubing you can use a slip to barb fitting like https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/gray-male-pipe-adapter-spigot-x-barb.html
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PigDaddyF15E
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Thanks for asking. I THOUGHT I had ordered vinyl tubing from Marine Depot (right before they closed)...but it says FPVC on the wrapping so I think I'll be able to transition glue that directly into the slip fittings and not need to use bards.
KStatefan
2500 Club Member
I would still use unions there so you can take apart in the future. So from the bulkhead use transition glue to install a short piece of pvc. Then use regular pvc glue to install a slip union the use regular pvc glue to install the flex pvc.
The only place you ned the transition glue is where you are gluing pvc to abs.
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PigDaddyF15E
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I'm definitely going to use unions. I thinking I'll put them pretty close to the bulkhead. I will make sure to use pvc glue on everything BUT that first connection where I'm going to use transition glue to glue the FPVC to the bulkhead. I'll now switch my order from threaded to slip on all the other stuff I need to buy.
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PigDaddyF15E
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I made a post over in the equipment section about the plan to get the water from the sump back into the tank
www.reef2reef.com
Plumbing in 25W UV using Y fittings
I ordered an IM 100 EXT (See my build thread). Before it arrives I want to get my plumbing supplies ordered. Please see the inserted line drawing I did of my plan. Feedback/Inputs appreciated. Discussion Points: 1. I'm trying to use flexible PVC to the max extent possible. Less head loss...
www.reef2reef.com
Where did you get those pipe supports? Or can you add a linkThat sounds correct. For the pvc glue you will want transition glue when you glue into the bulkheads.
On mine I switched out the factory bulkheads and did slip/threaded so I could use a pipe nipple between the bulkhead and the union.
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PigDaddyF15E
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Now the next question: I've seen people plumb everything and test it in the garage...but also heard of people just putting it in place. Obviously it's the lifting part. Garage option means I need to get some friends over to lift it...twice. Going straight into the house means that if something leaks...well......
Congratulations! Mine is in place and still empty. I would say if you already have the spot prepared for it just put it into place. Even if you end up with a leak most are just from a loose bulkhead or something and not bad enough to warrant the extra work.
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PigDaddyF15E
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Yeah. I'm trying to balance the risk of picking up the tank twice (onto stand in garage...then onto stand in final spot) versus the "what if" it springs a leak. I'm not super concerned with water...as I would definitely be watching...it's more of a pain to get some friends to help with the moving. So at this point I'm leaning towards building in place...with the benefit of it being inside the A/C vice out in the garage.
How much room do you guy leave between the tank and the wall behind? I'm thinking of hiding the UV 25 behind the tank but near one end so I can do MX on it...so that's four+ inches. I'm just thinking if...at some point you need to get behind the tank...you don't want it so close to the wall you can't get anything done.
In addition...I've seen several people who seem to put it a few feet out from the final spot then at some point "push" the tank back into it's final spot. I don't know how I feel about "pushing a stand/tank" back a foot or two.
My tank is in a wall cut out designed for a dining room hutch so I didn't have to worry about the distance from the wall. I lined up the front of the tank with front of main wall and if I remember correctly it's about 8 inches off the back cutout wall (don't know if that makes sense).
Pushing the tank back is easier than you think. I was concerned about that also since I am in a cutout, I had to do most of my plumbing off the wall. It pushes really easy (empty and not on carpet). I have since pulled it away and pushed it back at least 4 times without any issues.
Pushing the tank back is easier than you think. I was concerned about that also since I am in a cutout, I had to do most of my plumbing off the wall. It pushes really easy (empty and not on carpet). I have since pulled it away and pushed it back at least 4 times without any issues.
KStatefan
2500 Club Member
I did all my plumbing work with he tank about 6 feet from the wall then slide it in place prior to adding water. I have a steel stand that I made not sure if that would work with an IM stand. I used furniture slides on a tile floor and it moved very easy.
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