Is DIY tap water filter sufficient because i dont have R/O

[Faulkner’s maze]

I never went out and got a reverse osmosis filtration setup. But I had old tanks lying around, so I built my own tap water filter, and would like to know from the experienced reefers if if they think it is sufficient. I basically took an old 10 gallon tank, put two HOB filters on that are each rated for a 20 gallon tank. One has activated charcoal and ammonia remover, the other has bone Char carbon to help remove fluoride, and I added a small UV sterilizer to the tank. I let it run constantly filled with tap water, and when I need water for my saltwater reef tank, I just scoop out of gallon and basically dump it into the saltwater tank. I get constant filtration of the tap water multiple times a day in the entire 10 gallon "tap" tank, and the UV sterilization also. Is this equal to reverse osmosis or at least close enough that the tap water I'm getting out of my 10 gallon tank filter is good enough to go straight into my saltwater aquarium?

As someone else said on this forum, one option is to get water straight from LFS. And it should have the proper SG/PPT.
However when we were setting up our tank in CA we did not want to use RO/DI due to the drought as systems were at least 3:1 and yes we had all the discussions about using on lawn etc etc except we already have a system in place for that as well.

so fortunately for us, our TDS is already about 27-30. With that, we used one sediment filter, 2 carbon blocks for cloramine and then two chamber DI system.

One large bag of DI resin from bulk reef lasted about a year.

That being said, no algae issues in DT except for some minor bubble algae kept in check by a sailfin tang and rabbit fish.

you can do this if, if your tds is low or your purchase of DI will surpass your RODI system expenses.

my 2 cents.

 

[Reesj]

@Bpb
Wow dude chill a bit. Why soo hostile ? You make it sound as if everything wrong in hobby happens due to tap water although hardly any one use it. You think acropora and goniopora both were impossible to keep in old days, casue of tap water? Seriously ? Those are completely on the opesite end of spectrum when it coems to water quality. I would Love to see your RODI tank filled with Goniopora and Acropora colonies. Can't see a build thread of your though or tanks pics.....

For everyone using tap water, please please get a TDS meter. They’re really cheap. Over time, water evaporates out and those dissolved solids accumulate as you top off water. So think far down the road.

Actually you made the only good point in the tread atleast for me. In fresh water I used to do large water changes when I got around to do them, which offset this problem. Lucky for me how my tank is setup, with soo much closed off canopy I hardly get any evaporation. I guess still though I better do a 30-40% water change every 6 months or so.
Becasue for a fact I know the weater I'm using is nowhere enar 0 TDS. Our drinking water filter catch some quite nice gunk. Hopefully my water tank settles down most of the havy stuff when its stored for weeks.

 

[Bpb]

@Bpb
Wow dude chill a bit. Why soo hostile ?

I’m perfectly calm. Just disagreeing with the OP, and explaining myself, same as anyone.

@Bpb
You make it sound as if everything wrong in hobby happens due to tap water although hardly any one use it.

Hardly. Any problem someone experiences is unique to their own tank.

@Bpb
You think acropora and goniopora both were impossible to keep in old days, casue of tap water? Seriously ?

No, that is a misquote. I said those genus of corals have become easier through improved water quality and a better understanding of element profiles and how they balance with nutrition.

@Bpb
Those are completely on the opesite end of spectrum when it coems to water quality.

I’ll have to agree to disagree there. The water profile of a reef flat and the fore reef will be pretty similar, light level and current turbidity will vary more than basic element profile.

@Bpb
I would Love to see your RODI tank filled with Goniopora and Acropora colonies.

I choose not to keep goniopora in my own tank, as they don’t interest me. It was merely an example.

@Bpb
Can't see a build thread of your though or tanks pics.....

look harder if you’re interested. I’m here for a discussion, not to show off.

 

[Water Dog]

@Reesj - I’ll say It for him... Bpb runs a serious acropora dominated tank. There are a number of reefers with experience in acros that I follow, as I value their expertise, and he happens to be one of them.

 

[Reesj]

I'm sure he does as with 80percent of people here, who has acro dominated tanks. That does not mean that his rodi must way is the only way to get this.
Also I was talking about Goniopora AND Acro thriving tank as he mentioned earlier.

 

[Tamberav]

I use a RODI unit.

That being said, I have seen successful tap water tanks. They had softies and LPS and easier SPS but everything appeared healthy and there wasn't any excessive algae growth. They simply treated it first with prime or some such.

It really just depends what is in your tap. Not everyone's tap water will be the same or suitable.

I can not comment on your filter system or what it is removing nor do I know what is in your tap or what corals you plan to keep. I just know that under the right conditions, it is certainly possible.

I never went out and got a reverse osmosis filtration setup. But I had old tanks lying around, so I built my own tap water filter, and would like to know from the experienced reefers if if they think it is sufficient. I basically took an old 10 gallon tank, put two HOB filters on that are each rated for a 20 gallon tank. One has activated charcoal and ammonia remover, the other has bone Char carbon to help remove fluoride, and I added a small UV sterilizer to the tank. I let it run constantly filled with tap water, and when I need water for my saltwater reef tank, I just scoop out of gallon and basically dump it into the saltwater tank. I get constant filtration of the tap water multiple times a day in the entire 10 gallon "tap" tank, and the UV sterilization also. Is this equal to reverse osmosis or at least close enough that the tap water I'm getting out of my 10 gallon tank filter is good enough to go straight into my saltwater aquarium?

 

[Lasse]

Nutrients are good for algae, including zooxanthella. Does this mean that excess nutrient will create an algae problem in a reef tank. IMO - not. The reasons for unlimited algae growth in reef tanks is lack of grazers - you will never be able to limit inorganic N and PO4 i a way that limit algae growth without hurting the corals symbiotic zooxanthellas.

According to use of tap water - as everything else - it depends of the water. I have run all of my reef tanks on tap water until 1.5 years ago when I decided not to do WC any longer. Honestly - I do not see any differences. Here is an analyze of my tap water before I switch. Here I have the same questions as the thread starter. Here is my aquarium at that time

​

And today

​

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Reesj]

Nutrients are good for algae, including zooxanthella. Does this mean that excess nutrient will create an algae problem in a reef tank. IMO - not. The reasons for unlimited algae growth in reef tanks is lack of grazers - you will never be able to limit inorganic N and PO4 i a way that limit algae growth without hurting the corals symbiotic zooxanthellas.

According to use of tap water - as everything else - it depends of the water. I have run all of my reef tanks on tap water until 1.5 years ago when I decided not to do WC any longer. Honestly - I do not see any differences. Here is an analyze of my tap water before I switch. Here I have the same questions as the thread starter. Here is my aquarium at that time

​

And today

​

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks for the post Lasse. Your tank looks great. It's nice some people with experience chiming in, cause if not these threads turn in to witch hunts

 

[Water Dog]

I find it interesting, that those with experience, commenting in support of using tap water if situations are ideal, all use an RODI on their current system. Makes you think, doesn’t it?

 

[Lasse]

It's because I got from 15 % WC every 14 days to no WC in nearly 1.5 years (small one recently when I started a new tank) You can follow my ICP tests in my build thread - in my case - no differences. However - I will run with RO for the moment. I run this tank with tap water for 2 years - no problems at all. To be honest - I have more problems now but I can't blame the RO for that - not for the moment at least.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Bpb]

I'm sure he does as with 80percent of people here, who has acro dominated tanks. That does not mean that his rodi must way is the only way to get this.
Also I was talking about Goniopora AND Acro thriving tank as he mentioned earlier.

again with the misquoting. It can be interesting debating with someone who doesn’t understand the rules of a debate. To debate with someone who constantly misquotes you and makes assumptions is like trying to play poker with the person at the table who goes all in with every hand and just keeps buying chips. It’s obnoxious and solves absolutely nothing.

again....I never mentioned a specific tank in mind with acropora AND goniopora. You made that assumption. I said twice now those two genus of corals were mentioned as examples. You took it upon yourself to deduce I somehow I was talking about a specific tank condition that is now possible in which both can flourish.

it is advisable to carefully read each statement you are disagreeing with and be specific in your arguments and approach, taking care that they are relevant and the information you are paraphrasing or quoting is at least accurate. If it is not, your foundation of argument has fallen apart from the get go. Just some helpful advice going forward.

Furthermore. I will also reiterate, I never once specified that rodi water is the sole reason we are able to keep goniopora or acropora now versus in the dark ages of the hobby. I said through improved water quality understanding are we able to keep more difficult corals. Specifics. They’re important. @Lasse posting a tank picture and an icp analysis of his tap water isn’t an argument in favor of tap water. It’s an example of someone who has very usable tap water. To assume all tap water is the same is a fools errand. I will say he at least has made an effort to know what is in his. Rather than blindly stating “there are elements in tap water that are good for corals and we are causing problems by stripping them”. Because no 2 water sources are the same, and nobody caused problems by starting with a balanced element profile, close to that of natural seawater. I cannot ever concede that having a mirror image of seawater major and minor elements is a problem in an aquarium.

But since you want a specific example of someone who keeps both acropora and goniopora together. Go look up FarmerTy. His tank is outstanding

 

[Water Dog]

It's because I got from 15 % WC every 14 days to no WC in nearly 1.5 years (small one recently when I started a new tank) You can follow my ICP tests in my build thread - in my case - no differences. However - I will run with RO for the moment. I run this tank with tap water for 2 years - no problems at all. To be honest - I have more problems now but I can't blame the RO for that - not for the moment at least.

Sincerely Lasse

Forgive me, but if there is no difference as you put it, based on your ICP testing, why did you feel the need to change from using tap water during your water change period of the tank to using an RODI unit in your current no water change phase of the tank?

 

[Perry]

I want to understand peoples thinking on why to strip the water bare and add things back in our own ratios...rather than letting the reef tank system balance to what it needs ??
Its a good discussion, and I enjoy knowledge.

We strip the water to 0.00 TDS to ensure we are working with purified water. RO = Reverse Osmosis, some municipalities use this to purify drinking water, it alone will bring you near 0.00 TDS, but not for long, mine operates at install at around 0.02 TDS, but after a month or so, averages at 0.08 with an inbound 153 TDS.
Ionization brings the water down to 0.00 which means zero ions, which is what is preferred to use for top off and saltwater mixing. Why= control.
If you feel that your method is good, why not send a sample of your water in for an ICP analysis? This result will explain why we use RODI
Is your plumbing copper? Better hope not. Do you know what filtration your city uses. Have you read their annual report? I have fairly clean water with TDS @ 153 and would not even consider your method. Some filtration doesn't remove drugs flushed down toilets, arsenic, sodium fluoride, etc.
For drinking water, our family uses Big Berkey with Sodium Fluoride attachment filters. If I won't drink it, my fish, family and dogs don't either. It's not always about your municipality, its what happens from there to your home.
Cheers

 

[Lasse]

Because I want to test if if would be any differences. I have done ICP tests every 3 months since start. I run with tap water and no WC for around 6 months. Did 5 x 50 l WC in January 2018. After that no WC - start with RO in April 2018. One of the reasons - to show if there were any differences - good to have hard facts in discussion like this.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Key-tie]

Because I want to test if if would be any differences. I have done ICP tests every 3 months since start. I run with tap water and no WC for around 6 months. Did 5 x 50 l WC in January 2018. After that no WC - start with RO in April 2018. One of the reasons - to show if there were any differences - good to have hard facts in discussion like this.

Sincerely Lasse

Knowledge...
Trying different methods and finding answers...
Isnt that the fun of what this hobby is all about ??
Thank you for your replies !

 

[Lasse]

Tip - if you use tap water and want to take away chloramines. Use one teaspoon ascorbic acid to every 200 - 300 l tap water.

Sincerely Lasse l

 

[naterealbig]

@Bpb
Wow dude chill a bit. Why soo hostile ? You make it sound as if everything wrong in hobby happens due to tap water although hardly any one use it. You think acropora and goniopora both were impossible to keep in old days, casue of tap water? Seriously ? Those are completely on the opesite end of spectrum when it coems to water quality. I would Love to see your RODI tank filled with Goniopora and Acropora colonies. Can't see a build thread of your though or tanks pics.....


Actually you made the only good point in the tread atleast for me. In fresh water I used to do large water changes when I got around to do them, which offset this problem. Lucky for me how my tank is setup, with soo much closed off canopy I hardly get any evaporation. I guess still though I better do a 30-40% water change every 6 months or so.
Becasue for a fact I know the weater I'm using is nowhere enar 0 TDS. Our drinking water filter catch some quite nice gunk. Hopefully my water tank settles down most of the havy stuff when its stored for weeks.

Sorry, getting a TDS meter tells you nothing about the quality of your tap water.

My incoming water is ~ 250 ppm. This is awesome if 100% of the dissolved solids are calcium carbonate. But, it's not. It it's a myriad of terribly poisonous elements including chlorine, chloramine, ammonia, and even some nifty radioactive isotopes.

Anther poster mentioned their incoming TDS was ~ 30 ppm. This must be better right? Not really. What if 100% of the 30 ppm dissolved solids are phosphorus? Or copper?. The point is, as far as anyone can tell, the OP has no idea exactly what is in his tap.

WWC in Orlando does not use an "RODI" system (although it is filtered with large RO membrane etc). The difference is that these guys are pros, and they know, down to the element, what is in their tap.

The water in our reefs will never be better than the water we start with. If you don't know what's in it, your taking an enormous gamble with your pets - who are relying on you to keep them alive. For some, taking uncalculated risks is acceptable. For me (and presumably the majority of the reefing community) it is not. For the OP it is, and that's their prerogative. The problem is that many very impactful assumptions are being made, and no data has been presented at all - just twisting of posts and articles, with no logic or correlation, and being touted as sound philosophy. Other than the logic of removing all unknown contaminants, and adding back in exactly what science says we need, the discussion so far is poppycock.

If the OP truly wants help (i admit, i was tricked into thinking they wanted help/healthy discussion) let's start with the OPs tap water analysis from their supplier. Perhaps a 6 stage RODI system is not needed for their setup, but until anyone knows (most notably the OP) - their argument for "not needing a filter" is rubbish.

And BTW don't knock Bpb until you try. His tank represents the apex of reefing community, and it would be an understatement to say that most aspire to emulate his success.

 

[Lasse]

I have to stress that everything I have wrote is according to the water of Gothenburg and the building I live in.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Water Dog]

Because I want to test if if would be any differences. I have done ICP tests every 3 months since start. I run with tap water and no WC for around 6 months. Did 5 x 50 l WC in January 2018. After that no WC - start with RO in April 2018. One of the reasons - to show if there were any differences - good to have hard facts in discussion like this.

Thanks for your response. Based on your findings, do you plan on going back to using tap water with your current no water change method?

 

[siggy]

Ok lets put it this way.....

We all know copper at elevated levels can kill livestock, be it corals or fish. 99% of the house holds around are supplied with copper pipes, and RO/DI unit will remove this copper. What your doing will not.

And thats only one thing we know of that an RO/DI removes.

Over time a biofilm will coat copper, lead and galvanized piping all of which is harmful (Flint MI)

As someone else said on this forum, one option is to get water straight from LFS.

I personally don't trust LFS, I used to get my water from a LFS in 2000, he has a DI cylinder with no tds monitor
and it isn't that big( 2 gal. media) yet he just sells 100's of gallons threw it.......He still does that today and he knows better.

I have run all of my reef tanks on tap water until 1.5 years ago when I decided not to do WC any longer. Honestly - I do not see any differences.

my tanks in the 90's was all tap water that sat for 48 hours before use and I had zero algae and rarely had to scrape glass, shoot I never had coraline. Fish only, Aragonite and sandstone decora rock from freshwater days.

When I restarted 3 years ago I ran strait filter,carbon block and DI and could get 150-200 gallons before changing out the resin. Lots of ways to skin a cat and some are better than others.