Is it cyano or Dino

Julian A McRae

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Like the title states I just need some help identifying the algae. Thanks
 

reeferfoxx

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Hard to tell. Can you get a picture with just white lights on?
 

PanchoG

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I have been told the dino generate little bubbles, a close up will be good
 

cloak

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Have you tried this "remedy"?

What, manual removal, using a decent water source, incorporating things like GFO, maybe a refugium or ATS, increasing the water flow, keeping your parameters in line etc? If so, then yes...

If you check that link you'll see that the remedy for pretty much all of those different types of algae is pretty much the same.
 
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Julian A McRae

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Doing a 3 day blackout currently, but getting a microscope now to see. Just was looking for thoughts
 

reeferfoxx

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I have been told the dino generate little bubbles, a close up will be good
Cyano will also.

What, manual removal, using a decent water source, incorporating things like GFO, maybe a refugium or ATS, increasing the water flow, keeping your parameters in line etc? If so, then yes...

If you check that link you'll see that the remedy for pretty much all of those different types of algae is pretty much the same.
I wouldn't use any of those methods if it were dinos. GFO could potentially cause dinos if not used correctly. I think that site just used a mix mash of anecdotal methods. Sort of a grab bag for ideas if you will.

IF it's cyano, which I cant tell because of the color, reef cleaners left out one important piece. Targeting the source. There isn't one spot under the cyano removal, other than remove cyano mats, that says to clean detritus out of rocks, vacuum sand bed, and sump. Scrape the algae off the back glass. Filter it through floss then throw the floss away. Inspect length of time lights are on. Make sure you arent broadcasting food into the display tank. If you cant target the source, it will only grow back.
 

reeferfoxx

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That’s it under a microscope, is that dinos I presume?
Yes. Possibly ostreopsis. Sorry. Avoid nutrient reductions. Test your N and P and post this picture in the big dino thread.
 

Paullawr

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Yes it's dinos. Could tell before the. Microscope Id.

I've become so. Good and spotting them now it's unreal.

Get yourself a good quality UV filter, jebao 55w springs to mind.

Quick kill.

Get the sand out and run UV. Should notice. Massive reduction in under two weeks.

To prevent plague returning raise no3 and po4. Guess your running gfo and its bottomed out phosphate.

They seem to go into fight or flight response and reproduce like nuts when low on nutrients. Aka bloom.
 

reeferfoxx

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Hope your good honey?
My tank is doing well so I'm doing well lol. Just seeded some more critters in the tank. Shipment of pods next week. I hear I'm over due for adding pods.:oops: Thanks for asking!

I was going to tag you in a discussion the other day but couldnt for the life of me remember the spelling of your name. Now I cant remember the thread. :confused:
 
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Julian A McRae

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This is for a 25 gallon tank, as for filtration I have chemistry blue and phosban running. Assuming I should take those out? And as for the sand is there anyway I can leave it in because I have a pistol and goby (along with two clowns).
 

reeferfoxx

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This is for a 25 gallon tank, as for filtration I have chemistry blue and phosban running. Assuming I should take those out? And as for the sand is there anyway I can leave it in because I have a pistol and goby (along with two clowns).
This was my situation in my 30 gallon, having a shrimp and goby. The sand will be fine. You'll just need to be proactive with keeping the sandbed turned while UV is in operation. Since the tank is small the 55w jebao may be oversized though can be utilized if space is available. There is always the 9w coralife turbo twist, or some of us had some luck with the green killing machine from petsmart. However, the uv will need to ran for quite some time. Going though a dino bloom is almost like having a reset switch on the tank maturing.

Remove the chemipure blue and phosban.
Get Stump remover from hardware store for nitrates. KNO3
Get a small bottle of seachem phosphorus for phosphates.

You'll need to dose nutrients back into the system to feed dino competitors. Target 0.05-0.10 - po4 and 5-10 No3
 

XNavyDiver

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Cyano will also.


I wouldn't use any of those methods if it were dinos. GFO could potentially cause dinos if not used correctly. I think that site just used a mix mash of anecdotal methods. Sort of a grab bag for ideas if you will.

IF it's cyano, which I cant tell because of the color, reef cleaners left out one important piece. Targeting the source. There isn't one spot under the cyano removal, other than remove cyano mats, that says to clean detritus out of rocks, vacuum sand bed, and sump. Scrape the algae off the back glass. Filter it through floss then throw the floss away. Inspect length of time lights are on. Make sure you arent broadcasting food into the display tank. If you cant target the source, it will only grow back.

This is exactly how I came at this problem when i had it last year. Worked very well.
 

Paullawr

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My tank is doing well so I'm doing well lol. Just seeded some more critters in the tank. Shipment of pods next week. I hear I'm over do for adding pods.:oops: Thanks for asking!

I was going to tag you in a discussion the other day but couldnt for the life of me remember the spelling of your name. Now I cant remember the thread. :confused:
Now reeferfoxx you can NEVER over do pods.

Whoever told you that is talking bollox. As we would say in UK.

If you were letting pods breed with no fish.... What would happen? You would have to feed more that's it.
Pay no attention hun.

Thank you for tagging me or going to. You would be my first. Normally my arrogance and English sense of humour annoys people. ;) but get to know me and am alright. (I think,)

Glad everything your side is on track up. Major battle you had there. But you didn't lose controller and kept it steady. More than I could do.
 

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